Man

The place is mentioned in Viamichelin and being approximately in my area it would have been blogged anyway, independently of egullet (as you can see, we didn't exactly rush there after her post) - if this is what you mean. If not, what do you mean?

Hi Christina, hope you're still reading this forum (though I doubt it). We recently visited your place (unlike 99% of other bloggers/photographers we don't want to be recognised, we don't want special treatment, and we like anonymity, as it is the only way to have an objective impression and write a balanced review). Booking was a negative experience. The first time we called one weekday evening we found an answering machine. We were not called back until the afternoon of the following day, by which time we had already booked another place. The second time we again found an answering machine, and finally the following morning found a human who answered the phone. We did not find these arrangements welcoming and enticing for a visit. Second, recently all the links to your website (e.g. Viamichelin, or the one you gave above, or even the one on your card!) sent to an error page. This is because (we discovered there) you have changed your web address without bothering to update the links! One consequence of this fact is that we did not know that you had no proper menu on Sundays, but just the stripped down version that you call 'high-tea'. The person who answered the phone also did not see fit to inform us. Once again, this is not nice to the customer (as we have to drive one and a half hours to reach you, it was particularly frustrating). Anyway, once the frustration was overcome, despite the tables formally laid up, we would have been happy to eat simple pub fare. The problem was that the main dishes simply were not good enough even when judged as pub fare. The 'Chef's roast' consisted of turkey that was too tough and dry even by turkey standards. The gravy was bland starchy water. The croquette was chewey. The fondant potato was not soft and buttery as it should be. The stuffing tasted exactly of nothing. The vegetables weren't served in a meaningful quantity. That said, no flavour were positively bad (in fact the flavour of the trukey was good). It was simply a very mediocre dish. The Cumberland sausage (served in lieu of the lamb shank showed on the menu) showed that you source good produce. But the sauce that came with it depressingly lacked any depth or intensity. And again, in such a minimalistic dish, at least you ought to put some meaningful veggies. The starters and desserts were better. The chicken liver parfait was smooth in texture and intense in flavour. And the prawn and crevettes cocktail once again witnessed to good sourcing. One problem was that the spoon supplied did not fit the small glass that contained the Bloody Mary jelly. This is sloppy - did you or the Chef not think of the customer when choosing glass and spoon? And the dessert trolley was nice (you have a good patisserie section or a good granny in the kitchen!). The cakes were moist, in the nicely textured posset (which looked like a creme brulee) the lemon flavour came through nicely, and the chocolate praline had a pleasant light crumbliness. Your pricing is very good: at £20, had all courses been prepared properly, it would have been very good value. Your service is not professional enough. The young waiter does not know how to make one taste the wine (he poured a drop in the glass). The water was kept away from the table yet was not topped up properly (why don't you just put the carafe on the table?). We were served a New Zealand Pinot noir instead of the the Burgundy we had asked for (also my fault, as not admitting to my myopia, I normally just nod when the label is shown to me, and when the bottle was opened I didn't want to make a fuss). Anyway we saved twenty pounds on that one...A young waitress asked us if we wanted sauces with our sausage but had no idea of what sauces were available. Noone enquired about how we found the food. Long wait to get our coats. Etcetera. But I'd like to say that everyone was very sweet and smiley. They were just ineffective from a professional point of view. In summary, we think that clearly you are doing something good at the Inn, but you stillhave a lot of work to do. I hope that your main Chef was not in the kitchen because if those are the standards he would not be able to cook the more refined dining menu of the non-Sunday days. We also think that for your location unashamed pub fare, properly done, and a rustic environment, would be be better than the more formal offering you seem to go for. For semi-fine dining, ten minutes from you, Graeme Palliser at 63 Tay Street seems to be streets ahead of you in standards of cuisine. That's it. A review and pictures will appear on our blog on the 27th December, but there's no real need to look at it (apart from the pictures) as I've said more here, really. Hope you find this useful, and good luck.

One year later, sadly replying to myself, I'd like to reiterate that for me this remains the best place overall to experience true Italian flavours at a reasonable price. Highlights: The quality of tagliolini with truffle was hardly beatable. I mean, this is a simple dish: if you have perfectly made pasta, a balanced condiment and a good truffle, literally not even a 3* chef can offer you a better version. A raviolo filled with scallop, served with courgettes and clams in a clam broth made me smile as it brought to mind, by contrast, the oversalty clam broth we had been served at Hedone, and made me think that Jonsson would have one thing or two to learn from Morelli. Red mullet was perfectly crispy outside and the Taggiasche olives, green cauliflower and sundried tomato sauce was very powerful, really stirring memories of flavours from home. A simple cannolo Siciliano in orange sauce to conclude was heavenly with an almost painful sweet-and-sourly intensity. The room was too noisy for me as always but the staff also sweet as ever (to regulars like me as to everybody else). You will find a fuller report and (bad) pictures at my place, as well as an intemperate and vicious rant against the incredibly overvalued Zafferano and those who support it, if you are interested.

Very true. In its own way it is an amazing place, and it is possible to eat well there too.

Thanks Judy. No good for me but looks ideal as the last day dinner for Piracer! (I am using my 27-30 December in London to have a back to back sample of traditional and modern italian with Apsleys and Locatelli, and then to try two places that for me are long overdue, Medlar and Petrus.)

I would consider Pied a Terre. Marcus Eaves is somebody who'll go far, and you'll have eaten 2* food in a 1* restaurant: a nice feeling.

I find both Kitchin and Wishart, while very different, immensely superior to 21212 (but I've been only once to 21212). I actually can't understand either what Wishart needs to do more than he's doing already to have a **, or why 21212 has a *. Castle Terrace, could never find a table! The same has happened of late at The Kitchin. So my advice is to book well in advance. On the other hand I always manage to find a space at Wishart even at short notice, except in the busiest periods. Perhaps this says something And don't forget Number One at the Balmoral, where very serious classical cooking goes on and I would rate as the third must try, together with MW and TK, in Edinburgh. The very decent Plumed Horse nearby in Leith, while not a must try, also deserves a mention. It has the distinction of having just lost a star but for me it offers very solid cuisine; and also the new Wishart brasserie called The Honours, which I found impeccable for its precise cooking and excellent produce, but has got mixed reviews. For simple fresh seafood, Ondine is always reliable and joyous. Out of Edinburgh, for me the Peat Inn is the loveliest restaurant I've tried in Scotland, and the cuisine is between one and two stars. On Fairlie, the only contribution I can give is that it is spelled like this, not like in the title thread. I look at his dishes and they don't appeal to me (at Masterchef this week Marcus Eaves's ones looked far more appealing, and Fairlie's 3 bit of pasta with a a few tossed girolles and peas were actually offensive to me!), though sooner or later I'll have to try. Or not. (Apologies to Matthew for being yet another blogger not posting full reviews on eg, but I thought this message was long enough... )

Looking forward to your review David. We have been at Koffmann's on average once a month during the past couple of years (it's a very convenient central London stop on our way to the airport) and our enthusiasm is undiminished!

I also don't understand why so many chefs serve what can only be described as a defective dish just for the sake (I imagine) of having the word 'truffle' on the menu. Really, truffle is something that either is served in adequate quantity and top quality, or it is a huge disappointment, ranging in taste and texture from nothing to cardboard. The problem is more than likely because it isn't really the best time for black truffles, I bet if you asked they have used preserved or "summer" truffles (Tuber Aestivum) which aren't a patch on fresh Perigord Truffle (Tuber Melonsporum) which, IMO, are not at there best until later on, maybe in the new year. Agreed, of course, though I find a huge difference in quality also among truffles that are described to me as 'Summer truffles', maybe the area of sourcing does matter? Are 'Burgundy truffles' also T. Aestivum?

It is, it is, and the difference is stunning. Or maybe I just like that lovely sewage taste...

I can only agree with PhilD and others. The idea of planning to have one person - at a table of two! - not eating without even bothering to check with the restaurant beforehand seems entirely absurd to me. These people deserve to be sent without further ado to Sat Bains and get a taste of their cancellation policy.

Useful report as usual David, thanks. One of your comments strikes a chord I also don't understand why so many chefs serve what can only be described as a defective dish just for the sake (I imagine) of having the word 'truffle' on the menu. Really, truffle is something that either is served in adequate quantity and top quality, or it is a huge disappointment, ranging in taste and texture from nothing to cardboard. I don't think I'll ever make it inside One-O-One anyway: once I've travelled to that corner, how to resist all the temptations within a few minutes walk?

At last the third star has arrived.

Standing ovation. Especially for small restaurants no-shows are a killer. It's criminal to do it deliberately. On the other hand, now from the point of view of the customer, I think restaurateurs should (1) make an effort to tell the genuine from the bastard when this is possible, and (2) not implement penal cancellation policies: if the aim is to deter deliberate double bookings, or light-hearted ones, a small fee is enough. Just to pluck a number from the air, £90 is unjustified.

I'm impressed: not one single spelling mistake with Italian words! (Have been only once to BdL but, as your post reminds me, it is a place that deserves returning to)

If you are an adventurous eater try again, you may find some joy - the menu may have changed quite considerably since then. The dishes seemed pretty solid to me.

Yesterday at lunch the room was quite full. The service, though with a smile, was all over the place. Our wine orders were repeatedly mixed up, napkins left unfolded when leaving the table (not that I care about these things but those are the rules by which they play, and since they forbid me to wear denims...), quite long intervals between dishes. The dishes were not spectacular, but simply pleasant and boldly flavoured, as usual. Yet, what a pleasant place for a long relaxing lunch with friends, in such a nice room, such comfortable seats, being pampered with all those little nibbles, the spectacular petit fours trolley, the take-home canele... For me, at least with the lunch menu, this remains a feelgood place rather than one for a stunning gastronomic experience. I guess the full tasting menu gives her true measure.

Was the boxed take-home cake still a 'canele'? (here for comparison) I haven't been for a while, but I felt treated very generously the last time I did, to the point that I felt compelled to leave an additional tip on top of the 12.5%, something that happens extremely rarely! For us, it was not a perfect lunch gastronomically, but a very nice experience overall - I think a similar experience to yours. Your post made me feel like going back. (on bread, I agree with Matthew - Woman makes it at home and I have had the chance to observe that bread that has something to say for itself does it best without reheating).

Didn't this use to be a place where it was hard to get into, even at lunch? Yesterday (Monday) I had the 'working lunch', the restaurant was very quiet. For me, it remains THE best value for money lunch in town. The 'Italian style' vegetable soup had excellent flavours and a nice variety of vegetables, though the two bits of pasta in it were quite horrendous (and in any case putting nothing is better than putting two pieces). A silver mullet was cooked beautifully and the accompanying vegetables were turned and prepared with class. Cheeses were OK, actually more than OK considering they were part of a £16 meal. And the coffee was far better than, e.g., at Pied a Terre. It was a proper Italian espresso. I'd be a very regular customer if I worked/lived nearby.

I normally don't like no-choice menus, and when I try one I expect much beyond the ordinary. And a previous day lunch a Koffmann's, which we love and always come out happy from, set a high comparison. But lunch here today had it all (apart from choice): technique, balance, power, amusement, tradition, innovation, generosity. Not a single dish disappointed or wasn't interesting. Really hard to pick one, but as it is so hard to impress with vegetable-centered dishes, I'll pick the butternut squash, milk skin and lardo. Though the bread porridge with egg, sweetcorn and girolles, redolent of tradition, was moving. What can I say, for us, compared with the relatively recent experience at Roganic to which Viajante somehow compares in approach, this one was on a completely different, far superior level, a triumph of style and substance. A bargain, too, at £50 for six courses. With a £50 Chorey Les Beaune, coffee, free water, and service charge, it came to about £175 for two, almost can't believe it.

Sunday lunch here yesterday. Two starters of terrines, a more basic game one from the fixed price menu and a softer, more subtle and complex guinea fowl, ham hock and foie gras one) were impressive indeed. A grouse was excellent, though not as good as others I've tried this year. A simple dish of lamb, green beans and fondant potato from the prix fix had a deep flavour, a stunning dish as part of a £25 menu. The famous rhum baba' with chantilly cream (vanilla) did not disappoint (big alcohol punch, ethereal dough), and for the prix fix dessert we chose a well presented and well kept cheese that I didn't know (Chaource). Service was extremely well organised, relaxed and charming, what a smooth machine. Maitre d' on the day was from Aberdeen and we ended up discussing the cheapest way to get to Scotland - which identified us as cheap bastards and terminated his hopes of selling us expensive drinks . This place reminds me a little bit of Koffmann's, although not quite at the same level. I wouldn't say it is fantastic or worth regular long trips, but it is worth trying once if you are far, and worth returning if you are close. Here kitchen, FoH and ambiance combine seamlessly to yield a pleasant, relaxing experience. We spent around £150 including very well made coffees, water, an a la carte and a prix fix menu, and a wine in the forties. Tempted to return for the tasting menu.

The point seems to me that most probably he did not optimise revenues on this occasion, as he alienated a potentially very profitable customer (see his report on Keller) and presented a not very welcoming image to other potential customers. I understand that restaurateurs do need to deter the truly hideous practice of irresponsible booking. But when there is the appearance of a genuine misunderstanding, I think that in the end they benefit financially from showing flexibility and hospitality even if this involves a small one-off cost (it would also make people happy rather than unhappy, which, after the primary objective of profit, seems a gratifying secondary objective for a restaurateur to consider).

Whatever the merits of your argument, of course your sympathy cannot include Mr Jonsson himself, who in his former guise as a blogger felt the need to vent his foodie displeasure in public like many other customers. But no please, not yet another inane debate on 'bloggers vs restaurateurs'. This thread is called Hedone, it was not opened by me, and its purpose is to report experiences and offer factually based opinions on the restaurant. Anybody uninterested in my reports is warmly welcome to skip. (RDB, for me there is no issue whatsoever of hurt feelings and I don't perceive I have any special 'right', whatever that means, though I care about courtesy on the part of a restaurateur.).

I returned for the tasting menu today. We had a very warm welcome from Aurelie (with whom I had exchanged emails when I sent a message of encouragement for her and the team after hearing the news), but in the end I came out upset. Scallops were perfect and we said so when asked. Slow cooked egg with girolles was very good and we said so when asked. Rock Oyster (from Dorset) with beetroot caramel was excellent and we said so when asked. An onion with pear was a dish we didn't care for or understand, nobody asked, and we didn't say anything. The kale, cockles and broth accompanying a turbot were excessively salty and we said so when asked (while praising the turbot). Out storms the Chef from the kitchen to come to our table. He is visibly upset. He informs us curtly that that (1) the dish is exactly as he wants it, that (2) that's the natural juice of the cockles and (3) that we are wrong as hundreds of people have had it and have not complained. Then he turned on his heels without hearing any more from us. I did not understand why our opinion was asked if hundreds of previous customers had certified that this dish was perfect. I've eaten tons of shellfish since I was a kid and I've never had such a salty sample in my life. The fact that seawater is natural does not make it good, like for many other natural things (how about fish gut). I don't drink seawater and I am surprised that Hedone customers do. I think Jonsson simply can't cook cockles. I felt a lot of hostility coming from the Chef (I can only conjecture he was also offended by our blog mild criticisms). I felt that my custom was unwelcome. These are not feelings I like to have in a place I travel two hours to eat at and where I spend over £200 of my hard-earned money (I am not naturally rich...). Aurelie was charming and professional as usual and I was glad to see that she and the whole team were now OK after that incident two weeks ago. I wish them every success but I think there is far more to being a chef/restaurateur than sourcing good ingredients, and in my humble opinion Jonsson has not made that transition yet, on more than one level. (but, Matthew, you are right that their pigeon is great.) Tomorrow I'm at Galvin la Chapelle and I hope to have a better experience there or this London trip will have been a failure.

Good, thanks for the update. He seems a tough guy!