Man

How are they doing?

I agree, MW's food has that 2* feel. That said the overall experience at the Peat Inn in Fife is better for me. A good exemplification yesterday at lunch. We had a fantastic meal at Wishart's, which only a madman could not judge to be of full 2* quality. A grouse with foie gras, red cabbage, chervil root, bitter cocoa sauce and feta was the highlight. Although we were dining a la carte, we asked if one of our grouses could come in the version of the tasting menu, exactly the same except for a boudin instead of the foie gras. A curious scene ensued. The (senior) waiter facial muscles contracted, his smile disappeared, he became pensive and for a few seconds he just couldn't speak, staring somewhere but not at us. Between amused and embarrassed, we volunteered: 'look, ask the kitchen, if it's a problem it doesn't matter'. At this point he seemed to revive and said "Yes, Chef will decide", and instead of 'Chef' he might as well have said 'God', "but...but...usually people want the foie gras". Knowing how keen an eye Chef keeps on profit, we had no doubt Chef would gladly replace the foie gras. It is this type of of occasional stiffness that makes us feel better at the charming Peat Inn, no matter how good MW is. At the Peat Inn the philosophy is that customer decides, not Chef.

Edinburgh has five 1* Michelin, not four (Number One, 21212, Castle Terrace, Wishart and Kitchin). Same last year, with The Plumed Horse in place of Castle Terrace.

Well with your choice of drinks you certainly brought the issue of food price into perspective! But at least this time you saved on the single-diner penalty charge.

I believe Michelin doesn't look at value for money (correct me if I'm wrong), anyway by the look of it this definitely isn't! But Michelin should look at the standards of food, so I would not expect in a starred establishement in any category a dish whose very concept - and not an occasional cooking mistake - leads to having soggy chips. Regarding service charge, mercifully here in Scotland it is normally left to the sense of fairness of the customer, even in high end restaurants. Same in Italy. Like Matthew, when in London I'm also inclined to refuse to pay (or reduce) it when service has not been adequate. The problem is, who wants, at the end of a meal which is supposed to be a relaxing experience, to enter the inevitable discussion that ensues? To mention our resident 2* Michelin contributor, it is interesting to read on TripAdvisor about the alleged 'interrogations' to which customers are subjected when they object to paying the service charge in his restaurant. Because I dread such scenes, more often than not I just end up paying with a vow never to return. Edited to add: 1) Nice report! 2) That grouse isn't finished in my book!

I agree, MW's food has that 2* feel. That said the overall experience at the Peat Inn in Fife is better for me.

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Just to nuance the spectrum of opinions even more, I think Mikael does well in focusing on sourcing spectacular produce and keeping it simple, because his (or his associates') cooking is not sure-footed. I've had just a single experience but we've seen other examples in this thread. That said, the flavours were such a joy that I wouldn't hesitate for a minute, given the choice, to return to Chiswick in preference to Roganic, which was interesting but also imperfect, showy and evanescent (one of the few times I disagree with David - and with almost everybody else ). Hope next time Mikael can spare a lamb for us...

They are of course a business, but they shouldn't forget that they are a hospitality business... Your account (and others I've heard) suggest a manner that is incompatible with hospitality. Secondly, a cancellation charge of £90 is exorbitant (especially because the high prices should include some costs for no-shows), and if it is such an important part of their policy they should state it very prominently on their website, e.g. in the menu prices. It isn't. Finally, if I understand correctly that you hadn't booked for two, but that the restaurant simply 'assumed' it was going to be two, then it is even worse. It was a mistake on their part and it did not justify charging the customer, let alone trying to slip the charge in the bill without a word, an act in my opinion unworthy of a 'fine' establishment independently of the merit of the case. I wouldn't have paid and if they had attempted to collect it via my credit card I would have disputed the payment.

I do quiblle over food cost at all levels and therefore I'm also out.

Beautiful photos, beautiful dishes: thanks.

I think a star to Koffmnann's would be a fair recognition not so much of Koffmann's talent, as he obviously doesn't need it, but of the tremendous work of his team. Currently, for that faux-rustic type of cuisine, I can hardly think of better places where to go in London - for example I like Bruno Loubet but it's no match. Incidentally, yesterday lunch at Koffmann's I had what may well remain the best grouse for the rest of the season (I had tried a couple already here in Scotland). If you have the chance go and try it!

For restaurants/trattorie, 2 years ago I enjoyed Da Barbara on the road from Cagliari to Villasimius (South West). Then it was fantastic for straightforward seafood, but I don't know if in the meanwhile it has changed for the better or for the worse. One year earlier we had liked, in the other direction from Cagliari (to Pula), Sa Cardiga and Su Schironi, but again no updated information. Even earlier, in the Alghero area, we had been at Sa Mandra (agriturismo), where they do 'porcetto' (suckling pig) and inland style cooking in a grand way. It wasn't really very good cuisine (especially the pasta), but they have some good local produce (hams, cheeses), and the whole experience can be interesting.

It's very easy, Crail is a tiny village. Just follow the signs down to the harbour and it's on your left at the end of the road. In high Summer it opens every day, then only at weekends, and it closes sometime in September.

I came here just two years ago, no acquaculture any longer it seems. I'll ask the villagers about the history!

With really good coffee (possibly in a few varieties), good bread, a good crab or salmon sandwich/salad, nice scones as a bonus, you'd have my custom (but probably I tend to overweight the importance of coffee as I'm Italian). I live in Crail (Fife) and I note how the small cafes around here that do better are those that keep the menu short and simple and go for quality. (Actually, the simplest of them all is not a cafe but a shack down the harbour that only sells dressed crab and lobster, just caught, produce arrives at around 11.00, all gone by 1.30 p.m.).

Last weekend we tried The Honours, the new Martin Wishart 'bistro' in central Edinburgh. The space is pretty grandiose for a bistro, with very high ceilings and elegant decor (we liked it). The cooking by Paul Tamburrini's team is generally quite straightforward but far from basic (Lobster Thermidore is on the menu). More importantly, all our dishes were cooked and assembled very precisely and had very clear flavours, with excellent produce. We were surprised by the only oysters on offer being Cornish instead of Scottish - anyway they were great. The veal sweetbreads below were among the best I've ever eaten, with a marvellous crispiness on the outside: There is a certain lack of generosity for a bistro (very few side elements in the dishes, so you have to order side vegetables if you want some, no amuse bouche, no petit fours, scarce bread, expensive coffee). So in the end we felt that the pricing, while not unreasonable, was at the very least not very competitive (except the weekday lunches which are a great deal). But we ate very well and if you don't mind spending 10% or so over par, it's a nice place. The service has some former components of the mothership in Leith, notably the manager Steven Spear, and it looks like the junior members of the team do need them.

Good, thanks for clarifying, the habit some people have of multiple booking and late cancellation (and maybe not even that) is really hideous and disrespectful of restaurateurs' hard work. I'm glad you enjoyed Arbutus, haven't bene there in ages although I should have.

Are you saying you deliberately booked at two places on a Friday night with the intention of cancelling one at short notice? If so, that is very inconsiderate.

thanks!

I can see why you remembered/made up gougeres even though the consistency was different: they had a wonderful cheese flavour! We asked if it was Parmesan by any chance, the waiter said no, it was something we didn't understand, and we didn't bother him any more. Does any of the aficionados know what cheese they put in them?

Man, I'm not sure I understand why you're being so coy. Why and what would we not believe? The quotation from Blade Runner was just a joke, meant to emphasise the standing of our illustrious neighbours compared to our humble selves and the differential treatment they were getting. The truth of course is that we were not listening to the next table conversation (not only have we been taught by our mums, alas long ago, that it is impolite, but fortunately we had our own).

I've got to say it was well worth the trip from E1 to W4... Actually, although I didn't come to London for that reason, it would have been worth the trip from Scotland. As chance would have it, we were seated right next to the table of a very well known food writer (with two others whom I don't know but perhaps are well-known too)...As a little clue I'll say that he has written that he has been at Hedone 5 times in 2 weeks. We took full advantage of our anonymity to overhear and see things that you people would not believe I was a little disappointed that neither the pigeon nor the lamb were on the menu today. I was then envious when, while munching my dessert, I saw the chef personally bringing some lamb to the esteemed food bloggers next to us...I guess somebody who goes 6 times in 2 weeks (and writes what he's written) has well earned this and all the other stuff that came to that table on Jonsson's initiative. For me the perfect dishes were the umami flan and the mackerel, simply served with the tenderest of leaves and perfectly seasoned, with the Hedone chocolate bar and the gazpacho coming close. All produce was superb, as has been said. However, if one sets the standard at 2* level, as has been intimated (again by the aforementioned revered food blogger among others), for me the cooking is not yet overall at that level, as there were deficiencies (I'll detail at some point). I think Jonsson is immensely clever in keeping it simple, cooking well within his comfort zone, and focussing on sourcing. Great generosity in the portions, too. We were served by the lovely waitress who was at Texture before (amazingly she remembered the table I was sitting at a lunch there over 6 months ago). One of the best £200 we've spent this year. The restaurant was almost full. Thanks for the tip Matthew!

Andy Hayler also likes it. This leaves only me, Woman and another obsessive foodie friend of ours not have been blown away by the experience then (and more importantly Fay Maschler of course). One of the most charming and enthusiastic front of house teams around, anyway. I wonder if the formula can work here in London as it works at l'Enclume. They did not even fill their 25 covers on the (midweek) night we were there. To us, the setting just did not seem conducive to the enjoyment of a long menu; definitely not a place for special occasions (noisy even without being full, none too comfortable - very dark too), which cuts off a big chunk of the potential market. Perhaps as the good reviews keep coming in, and especially when the unavoidable star arrives, they will always succeed at working at capacity. I hope they do, because they are a lovely team and their cuisine is unique and clever. Even if we weren't wowed we do appreciate this.

We kicked off an intense London week with a perfect late Sunday lunch at Galvin at Windows today. We were quite amazed at the precision of both cuisine and service in this rather large number operation (despite the bosses being neither in the kitchen nor in the front room, which goes to show the wonders a good, well-organised and well-led team can work). All seating is nice, the room is very pleasant indeed, and we were happily munching our amuses in a 'second row' table, when we were offered to move to a table by the window which had become vacant. An offer we couldn't refuse. It was a perfect lunch in a way. We liked everything from beginning to the very end: a San Marzano Gazpacho, a stunningly clear-flavoured flamed mackerel, an elegant duck dish on cherry jus, and a particuarly luscious Tonka bean pannacotta. But I'd like to single out this cod which was cooked fantastically, translucent, moist and tender (skin wisely removed). The seasoning was bold. We often complain about dishes being over-salted. This dish is a lesson on the fact that it is not just a matter of sheer quantity of salt, and that much depends on the overall balance. The egg and the chicken jus somehow combined with the cod to provide a strong sensory attack that nonetheless remained, even for us, on the right side of the threshold. Impressive. The service at GaW deserves all the reputation it has, and one should never forget how good Garret's cuisine is. At £45 for three courses, wine, water and coffee with petit fours, with that kind of view, in that kind of environment, what better value for money can one find at lunch in London? PS: as I notice there is a certain lack of photos of Garret's dishes on the site, I am adding one to give a better idea of what to expect: