mogsob

Personally, I don't find wine descriptors that refer to analogous smells/tastes very helpful. To this day, I don't know what "barnyard" means, having generally been applied to red Burgundies (which do not all smell the same to my nose -- let alone pinots from USA/Australia) and here to Gigondas, which smells quite differently. I also think it laughable to describe wine as tasting of cherries or any other fruit other than grapes. Hysterically, I would be laughed out of the room for describing a wine a grapey, even if that is what it is. I would prefer (and was wondering if people agreed) that wine descriptors focus more on the elements of the wine, namely fruit, acid, tannins, structure/length etc. rather than one note descriptors. I once in my youth bought a bottle of California merlot for a dinner party. The wine shop recommended it highly and I paid about $18 for it. The wine was very good and the next day I searched for it on WS Online. They had reviewed the bottle, giving it a 72 and summarily dismissing it as tasting like Campbell's Tomato Soup. Looking at the top scoring wine in that tasting (low 90s), WS described it as tasting like tar and pencil shavings. Well, I like tomato soup, but I wouldn't want to eat either tar or pencil shavings, let alone some evil combination of the two. Granted, it was the WS, a dubious publication at best, but isn't this all just a bit silly?

Whatever happened to tolerance? It is not an issue of tolerance, as smokers are among the most inconsiderate people on earth. For example, I cannot think of a single smoker who exhales in a manner that will result in smoke being returned into their face. Instead, they turn their heads to exhale, thereby blowing smoke in the direction of (or, in many cases, directly at) third parties. Moreover, smokers frequently hold their cigarettes in a manner that results in smoke being blown behind them. Again, this practice (especially in restaurants) results in smoke being directly blown at a third party. Furthermore, smoking is an all or nothing proposition. If one person is smoking in a room, the whole room is a smoking room. Conversely, even if a majority of people in a restaurant don't want smoke getting in the way of their enjoyment, they are essentially held captive to the one inconsiderate asshole lighting up across the way. So if you are looking for tolerance, bub, perhaps you should look to smokers to be more tolerant of their non-smoking neighbors.

Likely at the table, but I would expect better restaurants to have separate bar areas as NY restaurants did in the 1990s to accomodate an after-dinner cigar. Of course, as an American citizen, I have never smoked a Cuban cigar as it is a felony to do so, whether you are on US soil or not.

Not for long! See the thread on the London board for more info on the proposed anti-smoking legislation pending in Parliament.

I agree with Parker that technique has dramatically improved and, quite clearly, the effects of a poor vintage are not as keenly felt these days. But better technique does not necessarily make better wine, and as more and more winemakers abandon traditional values in pursuit of the fruit-driven international style, Bordeaux loses its unique identity. I, for one, prefer European-style wines. They are more food friendly and, ultimately, more interesting. So while the factors listed by Parker have all been positives, it is not clear that Parker, rather than science, has been the cause of greater consistency in the south of France.

A very good example. Indeed, the NYC restaurant boom coincided with the first of the anti-smoking regulations. The myth that smokers will refuse to socialize in a smoke-free world is just that, pure myth. What is clear at least is that this non-smoker will be able to get his non-smoking wife out more often in London if the restaurants were all smoke-free.

My thoughts on smoking in restaurants (and smokers in general) are well-known from the thread on the NYC board. Personally, I'd love to see smoking banned in all places outside of the home, unless the smoker in question wears an airtight helmet that prevents smoke from escaping.

There is a great episode of Chef where Garreth enters a cooking competition in France and, after a series of predictable mishaps, is forced to go to a wine store (in France) to ask for le vin anglaise. Classic.

Clarity was never the ES's strong suit, but it appears from the article that 75% of Londoners favour banning or severely restricting smoking in restaurants. As Ireland goes smoke-free (news to me), can London be far behind? ES Article

Highly recommend Polidor, 41 rue Monsieur le Prince, in the 6th, as a tucked away treasure. One of the oldest bistros in Paris, authentic atmosphere from the white lace curtains to the checkered tablecloths, inexpensive and very good food. And surprisingly, not mentioned a lot. (Memorable beef bourguignon and roast chicken)

I think this is close to the truth. A visit to Tazza d'Oro (for my 60 cents, the best coffee in the world) in Rome confirms your theory -- their standard cafe is very short indeed -- and almost entirely crema. The consistency is closer to that of Parisian hot chocolate than coffee. Not for mere mortals this. And speaking of Paris, what shocks me more than the inability to get a good espresso anywhere in the States (the Starbucks effect combined with years of negligence) is nowhere near as shocking to me as the state of coffee in the home of haute cuisine. While the espresso may be marginally better in Paris than in NY (especially in the Michelin starred restaurants), I cannot recall ever having a GREAT cafe in Paris. Shocking! BTW, if anyone disagrees re: Paris, please respond with suggestions as I will be there this weekend and would love to be proved wrong!

Chez Gramond in the 6th. For me, the perfect bistro experience and one of a dying breed (M. Gramond in the kitchen and Mme. Gramond in the front of the room). Prices are reasonable, save for the wine list, which is stocked entirely with aged Bordeaux and Burgundy (and priced accordingly).

Rochester is not a dining destination, by any means. That said, as my wife is from Rochester (and I have therefore been several times), here are my suggestions: Upscale Dinner: Edwards. One of the Landmark Rochester Restaurants and housed in a historic downtown building. They have recently moved and I have not been since the move, but my meals there have been pretty good (their beef wellington beats any version from NYC hands down, but that's not exactly difficult) and fairly reasonable. The Daisy Flower Mill is also pretty good for prime rib. Burgers: Rochester is burger heaven. Here are a few suggestions: Bill Gray's, Schaller's (the one by the lake), and Sullivan's are three of the best. I especially like Sullivan's. Nick Tahoes -- a Rochester institution (hot dogs). BYOG (bring your own gun). Ice Cream -- Abbot's (the one by the lake). Frozen custard at its best. Drinks -- The Old Toad. An English pub serving actual real ale imported from England. Brilliant!

I once came across a fantastic wine list for Italy. Here it is: The Pantheon of Italian Wines Duca Enrico from Duca di Salaparuta Montepulciano d' Abruzzo of Valentini Tignanello of Antinori Monte Vertine Riserva Vigneto Rancia of Felsina Vigneto Mazzano Amarone of Masi Granato of Foradori Barolo Gran Bussia of Aldo Conterno Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva of Bruno Giacosa Barolo Bric del Fiasc of Paolo Scavino Barbaresco Sori San Lorenzo of Angelo Gaja Castello di Ama Bellavista Barolo Sperss of Gaja Brunello Montosoli of Altesino Brunello Pianrosso of Ciacchi Brunello of Costanti Barolo Brunate Riserva of Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Cannubi Boschis of Sandrone Barolo Cascina Francia of Giacomo Conterno Barbaresco Bricco Asili of Ceretto Gravello of Librandi Terre Brune of Santadi Rubesco Riserva Vigna Monticchio of Lungarotti

I am loyal to the house of Fonseca. My first choice for vintage port and their 40 year old is simply amazing.

Don't limit yourself to Northern Italy. Sicily is making some unbelievably good wines these days, both with local varietals and with internationals such as cabernet.

I always thought that Mouton Cadet was downright nasty. Perhaps 2000 proved that anyone could make at least drinkable wine. While interesting, the class did not seem to impart any knowledge of terroir. In particular, the absence of a good St. Julien sticks out, as its terrior is the most unique and interesting in Bordeaux. The class also seemed to focus on inexpensive Bordeaux, which has never been (imho) good value when compared with other regions.

Mogsob: Thank you for this, on this fine April Morning. I really love it, and I don't know it. Is it by Reed? If it's by you, you have officially knocked me out. Hmmmm. Pimm's. Might have to swing by the liqour store. It is a Mogsob original (hence, the brevity). The proof is that it has never before been 15 degrees on an April morning in London! I did indeed enjoy my first Pimm's of the year at the Jamaica Wine House that afternoon, but sadly as I returned for a second, they were OUT!

Nothing. Still sucks (at least on the UES).

I don't. I think Frommer's has Sostanza listed and Il Ritrovo is generally closed Sun, but you could have your hotel call. For our part, we met friends at a trattoria they found -- pretty grim stuff and not worthy of a mention here. We did, however, have a fantastic Sunday lunch at a trattoria out past the Porta Roma. I'll try to locate the name and post it here.

1. Sostanza and Latini were both eGullet recommendations! 2. The crowd outside Latini was mixed, with a lot of Italians. 3. The beef at Luger's is the best, for both flavor and texture. If Sostanza were in NYC, it would get a large share of my dining dollars, but if I wanted "the best", I'd still go to Luger's. 4. I didn't ask about the rib steak, as I didn't want to offend (by implying that he served a less expensive cut) or imply that we were disappointed (which we were not).

A Brief Ode to the First Pimm's When I awoke to this fine April morning; And stole from my true beloved’s lips a kiss; Fifteen plus degrees centigrade at dawning; True English spring this. At the pub awaits the first Pimm’s of the year; Down a dark alley in the square mile for me; To drink with friends and toast the spring and order One – nah, make it three!

There used to be a very good French restaurant just behind Franklin Street -- I can't remember the name (and this is going back at least 10 years). I assume Mamma Dip's is still there. Over in Durham, things are a bit more grim. Is Nikko's still there? Pretty good greek food, as I recall. I would skip the haul over to Pittsboro. Overpriced and not very good. The Angus Barn between Raleigh and Durham is a very good steakhouse with a great wine list.

After six days of Rome's endless array of pastas and pizza, we were looking forward to Florentine cuisine. And Florence did not disappoint. Il Ritrovo A recommendation from the other board whose name may not be spoken. Simply put, Il Ritrovo is the kind of restaurant everyone wants to find in Florence. Located in the heart of the city (4 via di Pucci, which is two blocks directly north of the Duomo), but undiscovered by tourists. Marco and his wife run the restaurant themselves and serve up some of the best classic Florentine food in the city. I invited Marco (the most charming and accomodating host/chef I have ever had the pleasure of meeting) to join eGullet -- hopefully he will post something soon. Located two blocks from our hotel (the lovely Il Guelfo Bianco), we ate here three times. Florence means beef, and more specifically, the divine chianina beef. For those who have not had the pleasure, chianina beef is the most succulent sweet beef in the world. Florentines serve up mammoth portions of this rare treat at a song -- and when it is at its best, chianina beef erases all memories of New York and Buenos Aires. True, the fine minerally taste of well-aged American beef is absent in aged chianina, but the unique sweetness of the beef more than compensates. It's like Mantle vs. Mays -- both perfect in their own ways. Recounting three meals would be repetitive, so I will condense. Marco makes the best (and I mean THE BEST) tagliata di manzo in Florence. Each element stands out, yet melds perfectly in true Italian tradition. The beef, grilled perfectly rare, is so sweet and tender. The ruccola was extremely fresh and the pecorino -- well, I've never had pecorino this good before. This is my perfect meal. I could eat this every day of my life. Parmigana di melanzane. First, there is Marco's pomodoro to consider. For those that have been to Rao's -- imagine Rao's sauce, but even sweeter and more tomato-flavored at the same time, lighter but more intense. The melenzane was sliced extremely thinly, the cheese was deelply flavored and worked in perfect harmony with the vegetable and the sauce. Best of breed -- worldwide. Bistecca. Just the name gets me salavating. The heart pounds a bit harder. This is steak for real meat eaters. Huge and blood rare. Like the best Florentine restaurants, Marco prices his by the 100g (a remarkable 3.50 euros per). Let's put it another way, for some of the best beef in the world, perfectly prepared -- $16.70 per pound at current exchange rates. Unlike most restaurants in Florence, Marco serves a bone-in rib steak. Perhaps not as costly a cut of beef, but I personally love the cut. And, it has more beef on it per pound than a T-Bone, especially in Florence where the cuts are not trimmed as finely. Perfectly cooked, deeply flavored. A bistecca to remember for sure. Wine. The usual suspects. A great Rosso di Montalcino for every day, and a very good Vino Nobile for the bistecca. Marco's freshly baked cantuccini were some of the best we had on our trip, and for our last meal, Marco poured a very fine vino santo from Antinori for us. A few practical notes: Il Ritrovo is located in the basement of the Palazzo Pucci. There is only a small opening with steps descending to the front door, so it is easy to miss. Their menu is inside the opening and is the only suggestion that a restaurant lies within. At the bottom of the stairs, the door is generally locked -- ring the buzzer to your right to get in. The restaurant is rarely crowded, and reservations are not needed. Sostanza The main event. Located down a narrow street, you would not think that this humble storefront (looks more like Katz's deli than a steakhouse) was the gateway to a carnivore's paradise. It is populated by Italians (exclusively on our visit) and everyone sits a communal tables. A real test for both my Italian language and diplomatic skills. As a rejoinder to Steve P.'s comment about Italian cuisine, I said in an earlier thread that haute cuisine is particularly French, and thus unfair to subject the sovereign cuisine of Italy to its mandate. Haute cuisine might be the best expression of the culinary arts, but the communal table at a real Italian trattoria is the perfect expression of the dining experience. There is a sense of community and a true spirit of hospitality that is unique to Italian restaurants. Let's call it "ospitalita alta". The only dish worthy of discussion from our meal was, of course, the bistecca. Sostanza is a very long and narrow restaurant, with one isle leading from door to kitchen. I sat right next to the kitchen door, where I could witness the chef butcher each bistecca to order. I was entranced, and he noticed and we joked a bit before our meal began. When it came time to butcher ours (we specifically requested one steak, again at a remarkable 34 euros total), I kept moving his mark out. The final product was about 3 inches thick, post grilling. The beef was by far the best I had in Florence. The most deeply flavored and the most perfectly cooked. The seasoning was note perfect and the charred exterior approached and even passed Luger's (depending if you ask me or my wife). If you force me to choose one steakhouse in the world, I would still choose Luger's -- nothing I have had matches their beef for flavor or texture. But only by a hair. And Sostanza could correctly be summarized as "twice the beef and half the cost." The Branacci Chapel used to be my favorite thing in Florence. No more. Latini Latini is an experience. We made a 9:30 reservation through our hotel, but when we arrived, there were about 60 people pressed up to the door as if the Pope was having dinner with David Beckham and the Queen. I made it to the front bar and said I had a reservation. By the time I got out (barely in one piece), I realized that I (a) had spoken to the wrong guy, and the (b) ten minutes, please wait outside line was just that, a line. Following a group of well-dressed Italians, I grabbed my wife and our dining companions (a Russian art student and her 10 year old son) and braved the crowd once more. Summoning up my best Italian accent, I secured our table much to the displeasure of the marauding masses left outside. Our Russian friend (who, btw, endured thirty years of Soviet rule) described the Latini staff as Stalinists. She was right. Again, everyone eats a communal tables, and while you may be seated at a table at which diners are still eating, no one gets served anything until the entire table is cleared again. Our wait was about 30 minutes, after which time they were either going to serve me or I was going to eat the tardy diner sitting next to me. Then the going got good. Linens were replaced. Silver set out. Glasses appeared. Water poured. A huge bottle of red wine (house vineyards in Chianti) was placed before us (at least a magnum, with the straw covering) -- drink as much as you want, it's all included! Then some bread. And a waiter. "Prosciutto?" Si. Four more than generous servings appeared at our table. "Is it still shabbat?" asked Benjamin, whose adolescent views on religion are quite advanced. No, said his mom, and he dug into the cured meat with gusto. Very good stuff. "Crostini?" Si. Plates of crostini groaning with pate or tomato appeared. Much better than the soggy mess at Sostanza. "Pasta?" Si. Four bowls of ravioli were set before us. Pretty grim, I would say. Skip that. Time for the meat. Half chicken for Ben, a huge veal chop for his mother. And, of course, bistecca for us. The meat was not nearly as good as Sostanza (or Il Ritrovo), and a bit overcooked -- more medium rare than my preferred "bloody as hell." But it would be best of breed in London, so I wasn't complaining. To be fair, we were pretty much stuffed at that point, but our captors refused the bring the bill. First, cantuccini and vin santo. Then a bottle of sparkling muscato. Then, the bill. Now I have to say that up until the time we got the bill (from a mountain of a man, I might add), I was pretty peeved at the staff. We were pushing 12:30am at this point, and poor Benjamin really needed to get to bed. He barely ate anything post-antipasti. My wife was also very tired (although as that had resulted in me getting the lion's share of the steak, I was a bit conflicted). More to the point, our waiter had only spoken to us in English, which was particularly annoying since I was making the effort to speak Italian whenever possible. But when he brought over the "man who writes the bill", he leaned over and spoke to me in Italian (it appeared that he was speaking English for the benefit of my wife and our two Russian friends) -- "the boy didn't eat much, I'm only charging you for three." So the bill arrived. 104 euros including taxes and service. [More to come]

Definately not business-y, although not exactly celebratory either. Roussillon is very sedate (a friend called its atmosphere "boring Californian"). It also tends to be half-empty at any time. But I like quiet restaurants, so that's ok by me.