mogsob

Here is a perfect day: Go to Barthelemey and ask for whatever you want -- just tell them that you plan to eat it within an hour or so (they will feel the cheese to find the one that is in prime condition). Then head to Poilane for bread (great rolls also) and perhaps an apple tart or two. Or perhaps some macaroons at Gerard Mulot. Then head to the Luxembourg gardens to feast!

Fat Guy wrote a great piece on French cheese in the US a while back. You should try to source that article, as it was a whole lot better than what I'm about to do. 1. Like most perishable goods, cheese is best eaten as close to the place of manufacture as possible. Long distance transport at uncertain temperatures can really harm a good cheese. 2. Eating French cheese is like drinking Burgundy -- the name is only the descriptor; it is the producer that counts. Most of the cheese that hits US shores is of the more industrial variety, and not made by the great small producers. 3. As you note, the US forbids importation of cheese made with raw milk if the cheese is not aged for a certain minimum of time (refer to FG's article for the exact rule). Most, if not all, soft French cheeses fall in that category, so just about all of the cheese you get in the US has been made specifically for the US market. A quick story. The first time I went to Paris on business I stayed at a nice hotel off the Rue de Bac. Feeling flush, I went to Barthelemy and bought quite a bit of cheese. Needless to say, my eyes were a whole lot bigger than my stomach (all appearance to the contrary notwithstanding), and I stored the cheese in my in-room minibar. By the next morning, the smell in that little fridge was so overpowering that I apologized to the hotel. They had none of it. When I returned from the office, I had some bread and fruit waiting for me with a cheese knife! A long way to say that French cheese really stinks in France, but not so much in the US.

As I wrote above, I'm not much for comparing one area of Burgundy to another. Rather, I would judge each on its own merits. While others disagree, I strongly encourage decanting here. Taste the wine as it evolves. Pay attention to the balance between the fruit and acid. Notice the length of the wine, and how the taste develops within each sip. Particularly with a good Chambolle, the wine should be lightly perfumed and silky in texture - unlike any other wine. But, most of all, have fun. These three wines are village wines and are therefore intended for the table, to be shared with friends and married with great food!

aahhh,mmmmm, Lignier -- good stuff, if you can find it. I wish Steve P. was around to defend decanting -- heck, I decant white wines also. I don't subscribe (obviously) to this delicate flower theory -- and the proof, for me, is in the glass. I got the 6 hour decanting method from Rosenthal -- he gave me six Chambolles (including Barthod and Lignier) and specifically instructed me on how to decant (I had to buy a new decanter as the Riedel Ultra doesn't have a stopper!). I tasted the wine every hour or so -- I never learned so much. The truth is that Burgundy doesn't require a fat wallet -- it just requires a bit of time and research. And, imho, there is no research that pays off quite so well.

2000 -- yawn. Overextracted monsters. Personally, I think Bordeaux made its best wine (in recent years) in 1997 and 1994 -- two difficult vintages that forced the winemakers to tone down the fruit and make more traditional wines. Both vintages are also very well-priced, all considered. Besides, if I really wanted an over-oaked, overextracted wine -- I'd buy a St. Emilion from 1998 (indeed, I have two bottles of Tour Simard -- 14.99 at Waitrose btw -- that would knock the socks off of a Californian costing 10 times as much). Hey, sometimes I want to chew my wine.

Cuvee Mythique -- 4.99 pounds Montecillo Reserva Rioja -- $7.99

The last time I had a T&N pizza was (I think) about 2 years ago. I thought that was the new Tom & Nancy, as neither Tom nor Nancy were involved anymore with the business. If this is the new-new T&N, then I will certainly give it a try, as your description sounds great.

Claude -- excellent tips all (especially the temp issue, which is often overlooked). Chris -- I shall account for my taste here (love the latin! ) Barthod's village Chambolle -- generally about $25 or so. You should still be able to source a 1998 pretty easily. Open and decant about 6 hours before serving into a wide bottom decanter and stopper. You might want to smell the wine every hour or so to chart the evolution of the wine as it develops. Remove the stopper with about an hour or so before drinking. Remember -- keep the decanter out of the kitchen and away from flowers and other scents that can invade the air around the wine (also think about the temp -- keep out of sunlight and away from heat sources and in a cool area).

Noooooo! My wife and her folks swear by Tom & Nancy's, but I've had it and it's crap. It might be the best pizza in town, but that's kinda of like claiming to have the best dim sum in Topeka. Skip the pizza and head right for Sullivan's. Do not be put off by the grungy interior (or exterior for that matter) -- simply the best.

This topic got me thinking about a New World Burgundy equivalent: Rochioli. Rochioli not only has the most beautiful vineyards in all of the Russian River Valley, but also supplies pinot noir and chardonnay to producers such as Gary Farrell, Williams Selyem, and Davis Bynum in addition to making their own label. If these producers (at least Farrell and Bynum) are to be believed, they get their grapes from designated vines in the Rochioli vineyards and help with the cultivation. An enterprising restauranteur would do well to group the various Rochioli pinots on a list to test the winemaker's skills.

I couldn't disagree more. Drinking wines from one or even a small number of producers in Burgundy may provide consistency, but you won't really appreciate what Burgundy is. My approach is to drink whatever Chambolles, Volnays or Pommards I can get my hands on, with a degree of price sensititivty. For producers I've heard of, but haven't sampled, I'm willing to pay just about as much as for wines I know. For unknown producers (and, to be fair, there are some real duds out there), I rarely pay more than $30 in a store or $60 on a wine list for those village wines (a bit lower retail in the UK, but a bit higher in a restaurant). I'll also ask a lot of questions before buying (naming other producers I like in the vineyard or village). Of course, if I get a puzzled look in response, I walk out or turn the page -- nothing like a sommelier/retailer who is clueless about Burgundy (the wines are generally poor). Another strategy is to first sample the village wines of a producer, and then move up (although I've let a few trusted sommeliers/merchants steer me to special bottles). If you are in NYC and really want to get into Burgundy, go to Rosenthal Wine Merchants, who directly import from some of the best small producers. They will put together a tasting program for you (tailored to your budget and level of interest). By far and away the most satisfying wine buying experience NYC has.

I enthusiastically recommend Il Guelfo Bianco, a smaller 3* hotel a couple of blocks north of the Duomo. It is nothing to look at from the outside (or indeed in the lobby), which belies the unbelievably huge and wonderfully furnished rooms within. The staff really goes above and beyond to help with reservations and other essentials. And, it is half the price (if not less) of the 4* hotels listed above. Il Guelfo Bianco is recommended by Karen Brown, who is by far and away the best source of good accomodations worldwide. Karen Brown's Website On a food related note, Il Guelfo Bianco was somehow able to make a Saturday night reservation at I Latini for us -- and if you know anything about I Latini (see my review on another post), you will understand just how unbelievable that is. Every Italian city has one three star hotel that puts the four stars to shame. This is the one in Florence.

This is the great fallacy of light beer. The vast percentage of calories from beer come from alcohol (which is why Guinness is relatively low in calories). Light beer therefore has less alcohol, so you need to drink more of them to catch a buzz. Either way, you lose calorie-wise.

Gordon -- this is a post I will certainly reap much from. Agreed entirely on Buffalo or Syracuse. And I had forgotten the name of the BBQ place -- but that's it (very crowded). I will try Max on my next visit!

CAMRA is currently in the midst of their Mild campaign. However, UK Milds taste like beer, while US lights taste like water. There is also a fallacy about filling = calories. Guinness has very low calories for a beer, while some lagers have very high calories. The key is alcohol content. Besides, I'd rather drink one Pride than a six pack of Miller Light.

Obviously not, but more emphasis needs to be put on perfecting technique -- no matter how original the dish, if it is poorly executed it will fail.

I love Burgundy, but unless you are prepared to devote yourself exclusively to the region, mastery of its wines is next to impossible. It is ironic that the most democratic of all wine regions (a product of Burgundy's proximity to Paris during the Revolution) now appeals mostly to the elite. I love pinot noir above all other grapes, and therefore love Burgundy above all other regions. But after several years of floundering through mindless Jadots and like, I was finally put on the correct path by Rosenthal Wine Merchants, NYC. First, the key is that there is no one "Burgundy" -- the estate is the thing. You can't get a handle on Burgundy, but you can get a handle on Chambolle. Second, the joy of Burgundy lies in the art of the winemaker's expression of terrior. Unlike California, where winemakers compete solely to see who can produce the most fruit extracted wines, without much thought to terrior, winemakers in Burgundy comepte to see who can create the best Chambolle, for example. It's like gathering the best winemakers in Napa to see who can make the best wine from Shafer's vineyards. Exciting stuff. Third, the most widely available wines (from the giant negociants) are also the most dull. They might be decent wines to drink, but the invariably lack the local statement of smaller producers. Fourth, as estates are subdivided among many producers, each producer has very limited yields. As such, the best wine is in short supply and therefore very expensive. Fifth, modern Burgundy needs more time in the bottle than perhaps any other. This makes it next to impossible to hop down to the local shop to buy a Burgundy for that evening. So, what to do. I say, focus on a village or even an estate. I've focused alternatively on Chambolle (imho, the perfect Burgundy), Volnay and Pommard. Seek out small producers. Look for aged bottles. Keep good notes. Learn about the unique flavors of each estate and keep up the serarch for that one bottle that says "This is the most perfect expression of this vineyard that has ever been produced." The problem -- this gets to be very addictive, as the intellectual rewards in Burgundy far outstrip all other regions combined.

Bravo Hub-UK2! I completely agree. My fundamental problem with most chefs is that they are trying to use inventive ideas to mask their flawed techniques. Simply prepared food (roast chicken is a perfect example) can be divine, but the technique must be flawless. I think most chefs try to doll up their dishes to avoid scrutiny of their most basic cooking techniques, and as a result, we are faced with countless meals of fancy recipies that are poorly executed. I believe that this very point is why NYC's Gramery Tavern endures, and earns praise not only from the general public but the food community as well -- Chef Tom lays himself bare every night, turning out recipies that depend entirely on perfect execution in the kitchen, rather than on a melange of ingredients.

Robert, a very interesting and perhaps correct prognostication/interpretation. I initially took this as Robuchon's co-opting of the term atelier as it is used in the fashion world -- an atelier is where a designer creates haute couture (original and unique) designs to order. In all, I hope I am correct and you are wrong on this one!

Things to Take to Daniel's Restaurants -- Part Two 1. A notepad -- elicits exceptional service at Daniel (prior thread). 2. A camera -- brings extra dishes from the kitchen. Good trick that.

Nose -- very strong, with a clear aroma of wild berries. Taste -- a full, well-rounded wine with the sweetness of the fruit balanced perfectly by the unusually high alcohol content. A prominent flavor of raspberries and blackberries predominate. Not much length, and the "burn" will likely mellow with proper ageing. A very unpleasant aftertaste of tar and soured berries followed. In short, a bit dry, but drinkable. The second bottle was much better. Value -- as with all MD products, MD Wild Berry provides the most bang for your buck, and is the choice of savvy winos everywhere. The one wine to have, when you're having more than one.

Got a two-fer on a weekend day trip on Eurostar. Thinking of taking in DaVinci at the Louvre and heading over to Robuchon for a late lunch/early supper before the trip back. Can I safely assume that if I arrive somewhere between 4:30 and 6:00 that (a) the restaurant will be serving and (b) I'll be able to snag 2 stools pretty easily? I think I read somewhere that the restaurant would serve continuously, but just wanted to check before I hiked all the way over to the 7th. Thanks!

Yes.

OK -- some organization here. US CUTS Porterhouse -- as Baruch says, a shell plus a filet with the large T shaped bone down the middle. NEVER EVER A SIRLOIN. T-Bone -- the next cut down from the porterhouse Bone-in Shell -- the next cut down from the T-Bone Shell/Delmonico -- without the bone Rib Steak -- a bone-in steak cut from the six rib section used to make traditional roast beef -- a large circular steak with a huge curving bone. Ribeye -- rib steak without the bone. Sometimes shaped confusingly like a shell or sirloin. Sometimes called a NY Strip steak. Sirloin -- from the sirloin section. Can take many varied forms. Sopmetime called a strip steak. French Cuts Onglet -- hangar steak Entrecote -- generally, a ribeye steak Cote de boeuf -- should be roast beef (3 rib steaks together roasted), but perhaps could also be a rib steak Faux filet -- sirloin steak cut to resemble a proper filet (small and squarish) Contra filet -- a sirloin strip steak (rectangular) Chateaubriand -- a long section of the filet, generally roasted for two

This was the quote that got me thinking "Italian": " "None of this should suggest that Mr. Robuchon has embraced fusion cooking. Rather, his new approach is eclectic, rooted in ideas from many countries, using the finest ingredients prepared unpretentiously if inventively. He has reverted to fundamentals, rethinking, primping, but keeping it simple." To me, that is the hallmark of a great Italian restaurant. The setting/service may be more influenced by the tapas and sushi bars of Spain and Japan, respectively, but if I had to define Italian cuisine, I couldn't do much better than "using the finest ingredients prepared unpretentiously if inventively" and "keeping it simple."