mogsob

Last night I had an excellent cheeseburger at Joe Allen's. It is the first true NY-style (think JG Melon) burger I have had in London. Much like a true NY burger, the meat was excellent and came unadorned by salad etc. It is on the smallish side, much like those at Melon's. It is pricey for what you get (6.50 + 3 quid more for fries), again much like my favorite burger joints in NYC. We will be back.

I second the 5-7 rib roast. To add more controversy to how to cook a very simple dish, I generally sear the roast on the stove for about 2 minutes per side (or as many sides as I can get -- my largest pan is only so big). Then, I roast at gas mark 5 until rare, then baste with butter and season with salt and pepper, and return for another 5 minutes or so (I use the antiquated touch test, so my timing is not exact) and let sit for 15 minutes.

One trip to March in NYC will convince you otherwise. Their individualized tasting menus with wine pairings demonstrate conclusively that a great wine/food pairing makes the meal. It is true that some so-called great wines like Opus One simply overpower just about any dish eaten with it. But then again, I really don't consider any New World Wines to be great -- they are just too damn big. By contrast, I would drink a well-aged top bottle of Bordeaux, Barolo, or Burgundy (or even a Mosel Riesling!) without fear that it would overpower the meal. Maybe its not going to far to say that you may have had some great wine, but just not the right great wine.

I believe that if you stay at the Crillon Hotel, you get preferred seating at Les Ambassadeurs. Regardless, I have been able to get virtually last minute reservations there when staying at the hotel.

I have not been to Gascogne in some time, but I was always torn between wanted to eat in the garden and the realization that their food (not to mention their Armagnacs) is best enjoyed in the dead of winter. They should rename the place Catch-22.

By a serious restaurant I mean one with a kitchen that is capable of producing, on a consistent basis, food prepared correctly, and service that adequately sees to the needs of the customer. I have been to Balthazar several times for dinner, and on each occassion found (a) significant errors in the preparation of the dishes (e.g., overcooked, overseasoned, poorly cut) and (b) servers who couldn't care less about my needs (e.g., ordering, bringing water, bringing wine, serving the food upon completion in the kitchen). Judging from how Balthazar operates, it exists for the scene, namely celebs and wannabes who are more concerned about cocktails and ambiance than in food and proper service. That is not to say that only expensive restaurants are "serious." A serious restaurant puts the emphasis on food preparation and service, and those two things are not exclusive to expensive restaurants.

The list is certainly Boulud-heavy, although Daniel and Cafe Boulud are unquestionably two of the best in NYC. 66 has yet to open (I think), so it is unclear how good it will be. Generally, restaurants take the better part of a year to hit their stride. It's been a while since I've been to Montrachet, and there have been several chef changes during that time. I have not heard anything recently about it. I would give a pass to Balthazar for dinner, which is more than a scene than a serious restaurant. I would replace with one of NY's casual fine dining restaurants, such as Blue Hill, Annisa, Etats Unis, Tocqueville etc. I would give a pass to Veritas, unless there is something on their wine list you are dying to try. If you like wine, March offers a more vibrant experience via their individually designed tasting menus/wine matching option. It is also one of the few truly romantic restaurants left in NY, and has 3 NYT stars, just like Veritas.

But the purpose of this post is to recommend good restaurants. Les Halles hasn't been even close to decent for many years. I really do wish that restaurants were not judged based solely on the celebrity of the chef, particularly if the chef in question is rarely in the kitchen.

From your list, I can certainly recommend the following: L' Assiette Bellecour Chez Catherine Ze Kitchen Galerie I would give a pass to Les Bookinistes (or however they are spelling it these days). My last two meals there were decidedly ordinary, save for the fruit soups which remain the highlight of the meal. However, I know your NY list very well (save for Patio Dining -- ???) and many of the restaurants you list are favorites of mine as well. I would therefore recommend Chez Gramond to you, a very small (10 table) bistro across from the Luxembourg gardens. I would give you a rundown myself, but Patricia Wells does it much better than I ever could. Chez Gramond Review

Although I will not profess to have any particular expertise into what constitutes libel in the UK, one should generally be careful when making conclusory statements regarding food poisoning. Qualifiers like "I think" or "I suspect" would be greatly appreciated, I'm sure, by the proprietors of this board. Unless, of course, you had the food sample analyzed in a lab or have some other professional opinion to rely upon.

TimeOut, notably, took this as an opportunity to belittle my fellow SW3 residents - something along the lines of "Chelsea residents would rather shop in a supermarket than at Bluebird, the Conran temple of fine produce." Rubbish. While trumpeted by many people -- including Steven Shaw if memory serves -- Bluebird was a joke. The supposed organic produce was vile and nasty, the wine selection poor and overpriced, and the meat and fish counters' selection paled in comparison to what is more readily available for a lower cost on Chelsea Green. Perhaps their baked goods were fine, but why trudge all the way to Bluebird when Polaine and Baker & Spice are more convenient, if not closer? And if one really needed a food hall, Harrod's is far better, both in terms of selection and price. As far as this Chelsea resident is concerned, Bluebird will not be missed.

Haven't been to any of those listed above, but the best burger I've had in London was at Lot's Road.

Last time at Hunan, we were served a whole sea bass. Simply sublime. I have also had the duck dish, which is excellent as well.

Technically speaking, neither Vama (SW10) nor Zaika (W8) are in SW3. Only Zaika's little brother, Zaika Bazaar is (in Pont St. just off the Fulham Rd). I will not claim that Zaika Bazaar is the best Indian restaurant in London, as I have been to far too few and know precious little about Indian cuisine at that. I am probably one of those damn Westerners who like Frenchified Indian food (although the food at Zaika Bazaar did not seem particular French to me). I will say that Zaika Bazaar serves some damn tasty curry and has a very reasonable alsatian gewurtz on the wine list to match. I have had several winning meals there without a miss. It can get a bit clubby late on weekends and is to be avoided at those times. BTW, had one meal at Cafe Spice Namaste that was just nasty.

Terrior -- I know it when I taste/smell it. Of course, varietal wines from Burgundy, Barolo, and the Mosel have it. The vast majority of Napa wines do not, mostly because very little Napa wine is actually made from grapes grown in Napa. However, even a recent tour through the Russian River tasting exclusively estate bottled pinot left me at a loss -- no distinctive terrior to be found. A clear example of terroir is, unfortunately, found in Long Island wines. I say unfortunately because the terrior in question tastes of nothing so much as burnt tar. It clear, distinctive, and disgusting. It is found in better crafted red wines of the North Fork regardless of varietal and regardless of blend. It's in Lenz's estate bottled Merlots just as clearly as in Bedell's blended wines. A better example of terrior being expressed through blends are in St. Julien. Taste a few well-aged bottles of Gruaud Larose, Leoville Barton, or even a Beycheville or Talbot to see for yourself. As Steve P. notes above, even some of the best examples of terrior from Barolo are in blends. A more reasonable example than those listed above is Manzone's Quatre Nas.

A bit surprised that there was no mention of ortolan. I would think the banned-bird would surface on any self-respecting Frenchman's ideal menu.

Must have missed something -- going to a pub after dinner? Will likely be closed unless either (1) you dine early or (2) eat quickly. While St. John's gets quite a lot of plugs here (very deservedly), I'll put in a vote for Monkeys in Chelsea. St. John's, for all its culinary merits, is a horrible room and feels nothing like England to me.

I passed by the hotel last weekend. From the look of things, March 2003 is an overly optimistic view on a probable opening date.

I believe that the axiom that the French cannot mix drinks is belied by La Closerie des Lilas in Paris, which is a watering-hole of the first order.

Saturday night, my wife and I made our first visit to Chez Gramond. It might just be my favorite restaurant in Paris. The Setting: Chez Gramond is extremely small. Ten tables, I think, but all spaced rather well. It is traditionally elegant. Lace tablecloths, sterling silver, proper china and crystal etc. In short, the study kind of elegance that transcends time. This place is serious about food -- and the setting sends that messsage from the begining. The Food: There was no game on the menu, a disappointment. We had escargots, navarin d'agneau, and Grand Marnier souffle. Yes, we ordered the same thing, but that's how it goes sometimes. The escargots were the best I've ever had. The garlic and parsley were such clear flavors and the snails were very plump and flavorful in and of themselves. There was remarkable restraint in the use of butter and oil here, quite unusual, and made for an excellent starter. The lamb stew was textbook -- a real throwback dish. Very welcome on a cold winter's night. The souffle was also textbook -- not an overly airy thing, and not extremely sugared. Perfect texture throughout. Wine: This is a real wine list. About 20 Burgundies and 30 Bordeaux offerings (and a few other regional wines of little interest). There were few, if any, bottles younger than 10 years. Many of the Burgundies dated from 1971. There were many Bordeauxs from 1982 and 1985, among other star vintages. The list was very good value, but not inexpensive. There were no Burgundies under $100, but many in the $150 to $250 range. We had a 1982 Haut Medoc for $88. Decanted into a lovely antique glass/silver jug, the wine was perfectly preserved, with very nice fruit, and very long. A perfectly balanced wine in a style that the New World can't fathom, yet alone execute. Service: This is where Chez Gramond stands out. Mme. Gramond runs the front room and is the only server. M. Gramond is in the kitchen, but pops out from time to time to make small talk with diners. There is a genuine feeling of hospitality here that I thought was only reserved for travel narratives. The Gramonds are hosts of the first order. On Sunday, we dined at La Maison de l'Aubrac -- another entry for your Sunday dining options list. As the name implies, this is a steakhouse, first and foremost. It is also very casual -- paper on the tables, etc. But the food is remarkably good value for the area (rue Marbeuf) and the wine list is spectacular. I had a very good entrecote (excellent by French standards) and my wife had a less successful, but still good fillet. We had a cheeseboard each and split a proper creme brulee (hot on top, cold underneath). Perhaps the best coffee I've had in Paris followed. We drank a 1998 Solen from the Languedoc, which was very well priced at 30 euros. The list is very strong on Languedoc and Rhone wines. The bill was 114 euros.

Le Dauphin Benoit Grizzili Cafe Vieux Bistro Le Languedoc Le Reminet Rotisserie du Beaujolais Aux Charpentiers La Fontaine de Mars Chez Andre L'Assiette Brasserie de la Poste Of these, my favourites are L'Assiette, Aux Charpentiers, and Rotisserie du Beaujolais.

For me, Michel Rostang is the best two star in Paris -- but then again, I'm more of a traditional food fan than cutting edge. I also think that the two most romantic restaurants in Paris are Pre Catalan and Laperouse.

Sarcasm, people, sarcasm. Can't anyone take a joke?

And you're surprised? This is the way Melon's has been doing business for years. Look, the place is very small and the wait, especially on Sunday, feels interminable. And there is nothing worse than people moaning about how someone "just stepped out for a minute, but will be right back." While that may have been true in your case, most of the people trotting out that line are flat out lying. So Melon's has a policy -- if you're not there, you lose your place in line (this prevents one person from showing up to wait for a table for four). A fair policy applied equally across the board. Besides, why did you feel the need to feed the meter after only 20 minutes? Go back to the burbs.

Al -- as a former DC resident, I found it hard to find any dry aged prime beef. Did I miss something?