baphie

Has this niche, especially in Paris, been taken by ethnic, particularly Asian restaurants? Everything aside from Pierre Gagnaire's is a blur from the last time I was there (9/01), but I remember being taken to Asian restaurants whose food was not striving for star-dom, but was still very good and presented in a more personal fashion than traditional Asian dishes. The service was less formal than a starred restaurant, but more formal than a brasserie. As I said though, most of this was a blur and we were primarily there for drinks. Secondly, the dining culture of France is much different. Some place like Norman's, which I love, I don't think can exist in France. To charge the prices they do, they would need to increase the level of formality and sundries to meet with French expectations. Our upper mid-level dining has very much relaxed both in terms of the restaurant itself as well as the expected attire and bearing of the customers. The same is not true across the board in Europe. A.

A major reason for the dearth of aesthetic or artistic food criticism is that in academia, all writing about food is limited to the sociological side. Food is simply a signifier for other aspects (more important to sociologists, philosophers, etc) of culture like politics, religion or ethnicity. This translates to the popular press where the aesthetic evaluation of food (and related matters like wine, cigars or spirits) are considered leisure pursuits like an appreciation of cars, boats or stereo equipment. If one appreciates a 'serious' topic like music or painting in the same comparative and experiental terms like we do food or wine, this would be dismissed as 'conoisseurship,' which is darn close to a fighting word in the art criticism community. Food writers may not be born of academia, but this void makes it unlikely that food writers will have learned the disciplines of criticism needed to take their writing to another level. Placing food primarily in the realm of the socio-political can be seen on egullet where threads like that about religion and dietary restrictions generate intense discussion that is both passionate and well-informed. Even food-people like egulleteers see more at stake for food as a marker for some 'deeper' value than food-for-food's sake. A.

Yes. Though we were making reservations at the end of March for September, so it was a little easier. A.

My experience, from 2001, was that faxing was the preferred method, but that may have changed. Do indicate a range of dates as well as the specific date you most wish and why that date is imporant (eg a birthday.) For reservations abroad, I tend to fax and email, indicating that the message was sent both way. Make sure you provide all contact information with each correspondence. (I have actually received faxed confirmations in reply to email inquiries.) Be very clear and precise. Indicate the dates you wish in a list for easy reading. This may seem obvious, but I have seen some atrocious faxes (in a different line of work) that required reading a novella to get the pertinent information out. Good luck, A.

Where is this Hindu Heartland? There is one Hindu kingdom on Earth and it is called Nepal. The Nepalese strike me as a fairly tolerant people. Surely, there are many Western-style restaurants in Kathmandu and nobody is blowing them up. I'm not sure if they serve beef or not, but do you have evidence that a steakhouse in Kathmandu would somehow be attacked by Hindus? Surely, plenty of Buddhists live in Nepal with no problem, and I think I read somewhere that the largest Passover seder in the world is held annually in Kathmandu. While there is not be overt violence in Nepal, at least religiously motivated, the demarcation of superior vs less humans is readily apparent and food is a part of this. Nepalese may be tolerant in a lot of ways, we had one of the most profound experiences of food and caste when we lived there. Our landlord invited us to 'dinner' and to chat about the US where his son was. 'Dinner' consisted of him watchiing my wife and I eat. He was of a extremely high Brahmin caste and would not/ could not dine with inferiors such as ourselves. While this isn't overtly violent, it is the same seperation mentality that leads to upper caste members refusing development deals that would give them large profit, but would also pass some wealth on to the dalit (untouchable class) whom they regard are meriting their down-trodden position. Traversing the country-side or Kathmandu, the 'harm' is pretty obvious. Unchecked microbes from filth-ridden sewers/water pipes kill just as surely as bombs or bullets. A.

What's the 411 on those teas? I thought I was reasonably tea-literate, but have never heard of ancien tea. I am assuming that this is legit 85 yrs (not like 1000 yr eggs). Where do you get them? How are they aged - in large lots? in bricks? Seriously curious, A. (The tea bug bit when I discovered there was something called 'Monkey-picked tea' ...and it was good!)

My experience was that they didn't start taking reservations until February/March. I talked to them on the phone and was told they only handle reservations via fax. I faxed a request at the end of March for an exact date in September and had no trouble getting it. (This was 2001.) A return fax number was also essential. As a matter of course, a fax is invaluable for procuring European reservations. I have found they respond quicker and better to it than email. Amusingly, for some months after the trip one of the three stars with which I had exchanged email kept sending my virus-laden email. English works just fine at El Bulli, as mentioned. The attire is probably a little more relaxed than more three stars across Europe or even in Barcelona itself. I tend to wear a jacket and tie, but decided to opt for jacket and turtleneck at El Bulli which fit in very well.

nightscotsman: Excellent. That Croatian one is exactly what is down in the winecave. Glad to know my Aviation quaffing won't be impaired. It should last a while - we love 'em, but more than one doesn't sit well. I don't have the bottle of the Italian one anymore - the cap broke and I transferred it - but I think the brand name was 'Stock.' They make Fernet Branca, I believe. We got it when we lived in NOLA a few years ago. A.

Foie gras butter also makes a fantastic addition to hollandaise sauce (in place of some of the regular butter.) A few years ago, my wife and I did a steak showdown on New Years Eve between filets of Black Angus, prime and a local organic, free-range beef raiser (using a Charolais-something cross). This foiellandaise was our sauce. (The local producer won hands down. Less tender than prime, but way more flavor. Black angus struck out totally.) This year we might forego anything special for NYE or NY and do something special for Fiesta Bowl Friday (since OSU is playing.) I am leaning toward osso buco and risotto primarily because a bottle of '88 Quintarelli Amarone has been whispering to me from the cellar lately. A cheese plate for NYD does sound good though. We discovered Affidelice this year and my wife loves it, especially since it is a little milder than the Epoisses. nightscotsman: We just love Aviations! Finished off my the maraschino just a couple of days ago and can't find it anywhere. Where are you getting it? I have a bottle of something from some part of what used to be Yugoslavia that I am told is as good. Haven't tried it yet.

My favorite thermometer is a Polder model with a dual sensor probe - the tip for the meat and a second sensor at the base of the tip for the oven temperature. Being able to monitor the oven temperature without opening the door is extra-nice and it is also fantastic for a very long barbeque. Mine went totally wacko though, measuring normal air temperature at 170 degrees. I am having an awful time replacing it - the few stores that carry it are out and it is back-ordered on Amazon. For large hunks of meat, I am thermometer-obsessed anymore. I will often have two seperate probes in different places in the meat to more closely monitor for an even cooking or sometimes a deliberately uneven cooking as certain family members insist on super-cooked meat. A.

Can someone kindly post the links to ordering this on-line? I seem to be having trouble finding either Librarie Gastronomie or the section from which I can order on El Bulli's site. My laziness no doubt, but help would be nice. A. (Told my wife not get the Tramonto's Amuse Bouche for me for Xmas. I want this one, even though I am still laboring through translating two his other books.)

Before the midnight opening of LOTR:TT last night, my friend and I decided to have a drink. We ended up at a wine bar/retail shop to which I seldom go. We were enjoying a glass in the sit-down area which happens to also be where the Bordeaux, Burgundies, etc are displayed. The place was pretty full and thick with cigar smoke. Through the haze, I noticed some very nice bottles - 88 Petrus most notable as well as recent vintages of your top and second level Bordeaux. My question is how permeable to cigar smoke are the corks and capsules? Does that make any difference? I know cork is oxygen permeable, but is it permeable to larger gas molecules or aerosolized compounds? I doubt I will return and buy anything (cigar smoke aside) as the room temperature was 75+ and I know it is far cooler (~55-60) earlier in the day when the shop opens. A daily 20 degree oscilliation can't be that good for a wine I would want to lay down for a while. A.

I will second the rec for Domaine de la Rectorie's Banyuls which is one of the best and available, with some persistence. I have not recent vintages of Domaine du Mas Blance, but some 25 yr + old one still hold up incredibly well The ideal, and I mean over-the-top stunning and breathtaking pairing I have ever done with Banyuls was a pinenut tart. Even after a rather Pantagruelian S. French dinner I did a while ago, the tart and the wine (D de la Rectorie) were both gone in no time. A.

Your pairings sound fine. My only advice would be to have a back-up wine for the Fox Creek. This was rated one of the most disgusting non-flawed wines ever by a group of us who tasted a similar Aussie shiraz/etc sparkling wine. A.

it's not *her* label anymore, just her brother's. and i don't think she's the winemaker there, either. My slip. I had not intended to use any gendered pronoun. I am not familar w/ any SBs put out by Turley, so let us just say White Coat is Turley's first white blend. Bushey: I debated about putting this one on the list, but I had to be honest - at that moment it was incredible. As I mentioned, we appeared to have caught it at a perfect moment - bottle shock had passed and the wine had not closed up yet. I know exactly what you are describing and I have had Zins that went down that road. This one was right on the edge and not for every taste. I am not going to touch another bottle of the 2000 for a while. Kikujiro: I will edit the post to include prices.

Lots of things are like that. Music, for example. In a performance it is readily apparent is a note is hit or not. Whether it was the appropriate note or not (to critique the composer) or whether the tempo around the note was enticing (to critique the performer), is all a matter of subjective opinion. I think the same is true about wine. Subjective and objective are not diametrically opposed. I think you made a good example of it in your account of the Jayer- perfect, but not necessarily pleasing to me. Quality is a large set, arguably determined by objective means. What members of that set that we prefer is a subjective choice. Your tasting experiences are interesting and I understand your perspective. The way you present is though is almost like it is a pre-determined progression. Ie encoutering these archetypal wines will force you to eschew all others. I can point to similar moments- the 90 Chave you mentioned (and older), a '90 Vosnee-Romanee from DRC that was opened for 8 hrs before it bloomed into an amazing experience, my first D'Yquem, my first Conterno (Aldo) Barolo, Ch Grillet. What I am not finding is that appreciating these is causing me to reject other expression of the same grape, even when done in a New World style. It is the opposite- Chave makes me appreciate Thackrey more. I love to see what different visions have created from similar starting points, but very disparate 'terroir,' background, philosophy and temperment. Umm, my market theory may be weak, but efficiency in a market usually means the opposite- elimination of redundancy. Right? I am not so sure the market has become less diverse. There are more varietals and more unique expression of varietals available. And while certainly many winemakers have moved avay from the old style (eg the 78 Mondavi Cab you mentioned), there are still ones who operate on those same principles. For example, Melke Metisse, which Parker calls very Bourdeaux in style, tricked my wife into thinking it was a Bourdeaux when I gave it to her blind. The restraint in the wine was remarkable for CA. At any rate, I think we agree more than the discourse has portrayed. Where we disagree, I doubt we will resolve. Some points appear to me to be a matter of temperment and age (or neophiliac vs neophobe and neophyte vs paleophyte, if you will.) What strikes me as particularly amusing is the best conclusion I can get out of this, and I think you will agree, is that the 90 or 99 Burgundies will be ready to drink when I am ready to drink them. A.

Do you mean her first white blend ?- I had her incredible Marcassin Chardonnay on a few occasions. I believe it is the first put out on her own label, not the first she has ever made. A.

Understand, but not totally in agreement. In lines with what Britcook posted later, I think we have different uses of the word 'objective.' You are using it almost like an agreed-upon language. I.e. tannins means the same thing to each critic, to pick a non-subtle aspect. That is like saying red means the same thing to all art critics and that is true within the limits of language's ability to express an unsharable perception. This is isn't objective, at least in the way the term is used in the greater critical community. Objective means a standard outside the critics. Objective standards in wine would be a mass spec analysis of the tannin component, for example. I agree with you that Parker and other attenuated palates have the skill set that enables them to analyse a wine and rate the these components with probably the same accuracy as a mass spec. That is analysis not criticism. Criticism is the very subjective part which you acknowledge in the later post, but I don't think you give enough weight to how subjective it is. At best, these is consensus among a large body of people whose have the skill sets mentioned above. One could easily argue that this consenus is a product of culture, not any objective standards. I think you are correct in your analysis about neophyte drinkers newly able to purchase in the 80s having driven the market to wines that either express young or to an appreciation of young wines. I think this is a good thing in a lot of ways. It has opened wines and wine-drinking to a larger populace and has encouraged many winemakers to take a less traditional and more artistic or personal approach. It has also led others to produce plonk, but highly marketable plonk. Diversity is good for a market. The same thing could be said to be true for cuisine as well- the 80s gave birth to new directions in French cuisine which, on the whole, has been a good thing. I can't say how many more years of wine drinking you have than I, nor can I say if my palate will converge to the same point as yours. I tend to think not. If anything, I am extremely neophilic and I dectect strong elements of neophobia on your part. I approach a restaurant sommelier by asking to try something I have never tried before. I most appreciate a diversity of wines. I am also finding that the sommeliers in some top restaurants are following this path. That is not to say that they don't appreciate the 'great' wines, but are extremely excited by and excited to recommend small production wines from non-traditional locations. These complement, enhance or just follow the same riffs as the cuisine of a Gagnaire or Trotter or Adria or Bras. Philosophically, I seldom order a French wine in a top American restaurant doing American food like Trotters or Tru. (Except for whites where the American selection usually doesn't meet my desires.) In a French restaurant in the US, I will. In fact, I have already scoped the wine list of Maisonette in preps to going there in a couple of weeks. I don't say this as an insult, but it sounds like your palate has engaged in a directed narrowing over the years. I tend to approach wine with the attitude of expanding my palate set. I look at is as a 3rd dimension of cuisine and relate it to foods I have had or create a palate of flavors to match that wine in the future. Out of curiosity, what do you think of artisanal (shudder) producers like Randall Graham, Thackrey or Quintarelli? Do you simply not like their wines? Or do you appreciate their vision, methods and art while acknowledging it is not just for you? Do you like someone like Cuilleron who is a craftsman of wine, if not artistic. Lastly, how was the 1993 Jayer at Craft? I am jealous of you on that one. We have found the 93 vintage to be some of the best <20 yr old Burgundies.

I think there is more divergence than you allow. Some highly rated RP wines are considered undrinkable by other educated palates. That is more than a 10% difference. ??? on the LaTache Why is 99 so historic? LaTache is my top Burgundy and 99 is the year my son was born. Zut! That my bust my price point. No offense taken. Actually I hope you have time to read my post about my top ten wines of the year and provide some feedback based on your experiences. I respect Parker and use his ratings for certain wines. I actually pay more attention to *what* he says about wines than the numbers. We have been fortunate in having some outstanding retailers here that guided our wine education, so reliance on the WS was never an issue. I simply never trusted it as I immediately learned the ratings were the result of a committee. I quickly learned where RP's palate differed from mine when I bought an inexpensive Spanish red (this was some years ago) which garned an high rating and I thought it tasted like rye whiskey. After reading the Atlantic article on him (I blundered on to it over Thanksgiving at my parents), I respect him even more while disagreeing him. It is kind of funny - as my wife and I's palates evolve, we grow closer to him in some ways and way further away in others.

Thanks Steve P for a nice summary of your position. I only take issue in a more abstract sense in that extreme subjectivity is rapidly becoming more the rule rather than the exception in fields you mention like art (where your position would be dismissed as 'connoisseurship' with a very belittling tone) or music. I am also not so sure about the objectivity of a professional's palate. If you mean objective in the sense that there is an abstract to which professionals compare a wine and then pass judgement as to how well it meets that abstract, I disagree. There is a pretty big difference between the palate of a Parker and nearly every restaurant sommelier I have encountered. This is not to say it is all a matter of personal taste and anything goes, but I find far less uniformity than you imply. Secondly, I don't think it is a given than quality drives price. Yes with D'Yquem. Yes with DRC. But scarcity and brand identification drive price at all ends of the spectrum. I know of wines (especially on restaurant lists) that are deliberately "over-priced" because demand will be higher (paradoxically) at a higher price point because of the perceived higher quality. And what about something like Screaming Eagle? Scarce it is and this drives up the price, but nearly every wine professional I have talked to who has personally tasted it has had nothing good to say about it. (I haven't had it.) The above criticisms are not to say that you are incorrect- there is far more consensus among educated palates than divergence. And my wife and I are finding one of the ironies (and pleasures) of wine is that our young turk assumptions are continually being challenged and found wanting as our palates get more experience. A.

In response to the acrimony into which the WS Top 10 thread descended, I thought I would make a positive contribution of my personal 10 best wines of the year and hope that others will contribute their lists as well. I limited this list to wines released in the last twelve months (or made available to me in that time as there is often a delay between official release dates and when they reach Ohio) and that I have purchased (often having having in a restaurant where the tasting note is derived.) The #1 slot is my wine of the year and the rest follow in no particular order. What I made to pair with them is usually included. 1.) Turley "The White Coat" 2000 Turley's first white wine, Viognier/Rousanne blend and my tasting notes from a BYOB tasting where I first had it was one word,"WOW!" This gets my WOY as much for astounding me as for it's complexity (melon, nutty, flowery all at once and a super smooth finish that evolves on the palate well after swallowing. I was skeptical upon hearing about this wine, but it won me over. I purchased a bottle and am still undecided about with what to pair it. ( 60-90$ - internet auctions ) 2) Guffens-Heynen "Macon-Pierreclos" 2000 This was one of those wines that are perfect, but ephemeral. Paired with seafood, it was divine this summer. Crisp and fruity with elements of limestone, jasmine and a touch of butter. Long and clean finish. Sadly, it barely lasted an hour open and it was clear this was not a wine to age. ( 20$) 3) Cuilleron "Essence d'Automne" 1999 A most amazing dessert wine. Delicate lavender start, apricot body and the lightest finish with honey all balanced with enough acid to pull it together and keep it clean. Perfect in early autumn with a soft, rindy cheese and some raison-grain-seed bread. ( 80$) 4) Bonny Doon "Le Cigare Volant" 1999 Released at this exact time last year, it showed even better than '99 Les Cailloux during a roast-lamb course of a holiday dinner. Very full-bodied, but tannins under control. Long earthy finish. Cassis and pepper. Good aging potential. In all fairness, I am probably way biased in favor of LCV as it is the wine that got me into wine. (32$) 5) Kistler "Carneros Chardonnay" 2000 I had never had Kistler before and happened on some in a wine shop when visiting my parents. I figured to give it a whirl, fully prepared to harsh on it. I had to drink my words. Nectarine and citrus with long creamy finish. Earth and dried flowers. Finish went on forever. Great potential for aging. Mind-blowing pairing with oxtail ravioli in a lobster-saffron broth. Had my mom go and buy out the store's stock. (70$) 6) Araujo "Eisele Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc" 2000 One of the most food-friendly whites ever. We drank copious amounts of this restaurant-only wine at our favorite restaurant here in Columbus. (I later found some on a secondary market.) Super crisp and clean with all the great floral and herb notes, but measured out precisely (as opposed to NZ 'rub your face in the hay' SBs.) Extremely consistent pleasure between numerous bottles. Great price as well. (25$) 7) Bacio Divino "Bacio Angelico" 1999 Sangio-Cab-Zin-Alicante blend. Full-on fruit with a nice tobacco-ey edge. Very soft finish. Currant and plum notes as well. A sweet little sister to the great Bacio Divino which misses this list as we didn't drink any of the current release last year. Supreme pairing with pasta, meatballs and red sauce. (50$) 8) Karl Lawrence "Cabernet Sauvignon" 1999 We had a half-bottle at the French Laundry and were blown away. Have since purchased for our cellar. Very measured and subtle. Cherry and leather notes with almost coffee-like tannins. Very hard to put into words since no elements really dominated. Should age very well and be excellent at all points in between. (60$) 9) Turley "Old Vines Zinfandel Napa" 2000 One of those rare moments Zins are capable of when drank shortly after bottling- boom! boom! boom! fruit assault but neither the acid or the tannins have yet taken over. Almost painful blackberry jamminess. After being opened >1.5 hr, tannins firmed nicely and rose elements bloomed. A divine wine of that moment and probably tastes rotten at this moment which is why the other bottles will sit for some time. Amazing pairing with zin-braised beef short ribs. (40$) 10) Littorai "Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noir" 1999 Runner-up WOY. First had this at Gary Danko (the highlight of dinner there and a special thanks to the sommelier for the push) and at Tru as well as at home. The most food-friendly, yet complex red I have encountered in a long time. Accessible, yet deep with fertile field notes and deep fruit. Super kudos for not trying to imitate Burgundy, but using a Burgundian/terroir-conciousness to make the wine fit its home. This wine should age very well as it tasted as good two days open. Amazing autumnal pairing of pumpkin ravioli with chanterelles and braised rabbit with aligote in a roasted squash(which I didn't get to eat until two days later as I got horribly sick mid-meal from the single raw oyster in the amuse I made and that is how I know the wine still tasted great two days later.) (45$, expect ~ 90$ restaurant) The list is very heavily US-centric which doesn't reflect our drinking habits. It just tends to be that American wines are the ones we drink young and the French and Italian wines we put at least a few years on. A few other notes from the year in wine: The biggest disappointment: 1999 La Doriane from Guigal. That's it, I wash my hands of Guigal. This edition of La Doriane was thick, cloying and assaulting. La Doriane used to be one of my favorite wines for its expression of Viognier. Simply put, Guigal is raping those helpless grapes now. There is no excuse- 99 Grillet and Cuillerons were delightful- playful and expressive with pure blossom notes competing with underlying minerality. There is also no excuse for me buying Guigal again. Once I drink the 2000 La Doriane (and I am dreading it), I don't think I will ever buy a Guigal again. And with a steady supply of Cuilleron, who needs to? The other theme of the year: Cuilleron rules! This year was our 10th anniversary, so we drank some of our '92s. (The time to purchase these wines was during those lean grad/medical school years, so we didn't have a lot.) Overall things were pretty good. The Hess Collection cab really stood out (and we were worried because the '91 had totally fallen apart when tasted last year). Caymus and Diamond Creek stood strong (remember when these could be had at a reasonable price?) as did Le Cigare Volant and Orion. Bollinger Grand Annee 1992 really stole the show at our anniversary dinner party. The biggest let-down was Alban Reva Syrah which developed a port-like note and taste that it would not relinquish even after airing >2.5 hrs. (We even opened a bottle of '94 Reva to see if this was going to be a trend with that wine, but it was still going strong.) We'll probably tap our last bottle of Diamond Creek over the holidays as well as Ferrari-Carano Reserve (what I believe is now called Tresor.) We also like to hit certain wines at the 5-6 yr mark (especially CA cabs and Rhones). 1996 is often neglected since 1997 was so touted in California. We found some amazing wines out of the 96 vintage that can be snooped out at a good price. Special stars were Harlan's "The Maiden" which caused my best friend and I to seriously debate whether or not to share it with our spouses or leave it in the cellar to sneak back later to quaff for ourselves. (Spouses won.) Melka Metisse 96 was another star which was able to trick my wife (tasting blind) to peg it as a Bordeaux. In general, 96 CA cabs drank very well and didn't require >30 min decant. "Lesser" Rhones like Vacqueyras of 96 were peaking and the 96 Chablis were really showing well, but can easily take a few more years. Bigger Rhones of 96 were very awkward and after a few missteps, we avoided them. Same goes with Burgundies, although the generic AOC LeRoy 96 which can be a good bellwether for Cru Burgundies was a total mess. I hope it was just a bad bottle, not a sign of where the vintage is heading. The real stand-out of the year was the 1997 Mario Perelli-Minetti Miriam. This was quite simply the best CA cab I have *ever* had. It is hard to find and I have yet to see it on a wine list. The other nice surpise was the wines at Clos Pegase winery. While we have always found their general releases are fair-to-good but over-priced, some of the wines available only at the winery are real treats. A "port" and a reserve Cab Franc really stood out. Of course after buying a case, we will see if this holds as true in the dark of my cellar as it was under the sun of a beautiful Napa day spent driving around in a Mercedes convertible on our first vacation sans bebe and anticipating lunch at the French Laundy. Sometimes with wine, context is everything! Thanks for reading and I hope everyone had a really good wine year. Feedback is loved and I hope others more wide-ranging of palate this year will post their own lists. A.

Am I the only net veteran here who keeps expecting baruch/B1FF to post "I AM 3LITE GIVE ME WINEZ D00DZ!' ?

Keep the faith! I know exactly what you are talking about. When my wife and I went to Maisonette in Cinncinnati (a Mobil ***** 39 years running), we definitely felt treated less than welcome on account of our age (mid and late 20's at that time.) Not long after, we went to Trotter's and the contrast was immeasurable- because we wanted to be there, we were honored guests and we had a wonderful time and a meal that set a very high standard for meals to come. In the six years since that time, we have been fortunate enough to dine across the country and across the world and have never returned to Maisonette (despite the high quality of the food) which is less than 90 minutes from where we live. Voting with your dollars (hard-earned now, but hopefully to be more in the future) is the best revenge. A.

I don't have a complete answer for you, but the term 'cru artisan' is an official term for Bordeaux classification. It ranks below 'cru bourgeois.' Serveral sources say this term is no longer used, but I have seen it used on some 'garargiste' wines very recently. This looks like a case of the winemakers reclaiming a somewhat perjorative term for their own (marketing) use.

This is not an item to make, but we find find sushi to be a fantastic road food. It can eaten with fingers and, if well made, there is no mess. It also provides a good balance of carbs and protein to keep you going.