djyee100

About peeling chestnuts. Are we all on the same page on how each of us peels chestnuts in the first place? Some methods are probably better than others. My system is to score the chestnuts with an "X" on the curved side (watch your fingers with the knife), then stab 'em in the back (the flat side) with an icepick. I roast them, and peel while they are still pretty hot. The "X" folds back like leaves so I can get a grip when I peel. Not really a delightful process, but that's the easiest method I know of. They say if the inner skin is hard to peel off, the chestnut is undercooked, so give it some more roasting time. If you really hate the peeling, your best option may be to buy vacuum-packed chestnuts, expensive as they are. The vacuum-packed chestnuts taste almost as good as fresh roasted, and your only effort is to twist open the jar. Joyce Goldstein once gave us her method in a cooking class. She tells her adult children that if they, their spouses, and their kids want nice chestnuts in their fall and winter holiday meals, they can show up one evening and help her do all the roasting and shelling of chestnuts that she will need. So that's what her grownup kids do. (Wouldn't you?) She freezes the chestnuts when they're done. I think drafting extra labor is definitely the way to go.

Dcarch, that black and yellow pasta is so dramatic on the plate. Is the black color due to any particular ingredient? What are the flavors of the chicken wings? Hansjoakim, great minds think alike. Tonight's dinner, Duck Confit with a Ragout of Green Lentils I was rooting through the freezer this weekend and stumbled across two half-forgotten duck legs. I decided to make confit. No duck fat in the house, and I didn't feel like hauling off to a specialty market for it. I did have an extra bottle of olive oil, a bottle that was supposed to be of drizzling quality but wasn't. I wanted to get rid of it. Excuse me, I decided to utilize it creatively in a new culinary exploration. The olive oil went into the pan instead of duck fat. Except for that, I followed the recipe in Paula Wolfert's Mediterranean Clay Pot Cooking. The ragout is finished off with some Dijon mustard and cream, and does that taste good. The recipe is available online, here: http://www.sanfranmag.com/story/wolfert-recipes

I notice that "shoot from the hip" cooks are the first ones to post. I try out new recipes in spurts--the cooking activity matches lulls in my project deadlines. While I've never counted the number of recipes, it probably averages to 2, maybe 3, new recipes per month. I don't bother with special "30-minute recipes," because I feel comfortable cooking an inpromptu dish on my own. On busy days I'll pile ingredients on the counter and throw together a stirfry, pasta dish, or salad. If vegetables are rotting in my fridge, I'll improvise a soup. I have no problem with cooking a simple recipe from a cookbook, usually something I've tried before, so I know where I'm going with it. Years ago I used to do mostly "shoot from the hip" cooking. These days, if I have the time and energy, I like to cook recipes. I want to check out what the great cooks are doing. By cooking their recipes, I expand my cooking techniques and repertoire. I'll closely follow a recipe the first time I try it; after that, I may adjust it more to my taste. When I buy a cookbook, I try to cook at least 15 recipes from it. My aim is to get a good idea of the author's style, and what he/she is trying to do. The 15-recipe rule slows down my cookbook-buying habits, too.

I'll recommend this novel to people who like the magical fiction genre and who also like to bake: The Girl Who Chased the Moon, by Sarah Addison Allen. One of the main characters is a pastry chef who works her magic by baking cakes. Southern cakes. After I read the novel I checked out Southern cookbooks because I was so intrigued by some of these cakes I had never heard of before, like Hummingbird Cake. Also, for the first time in years, I felt like baking an old-fashioned layer cake. Judging from the reviews on Amazon, other readers have felt the same.

Japanese nori is (almost) black. More like a dark green-black. In the dimly lit sushi bar where I go, the nori always looks very black. So put a plate of nori-wrapped appetizers away from any bright light. Saffron rice wrapped in nori cylinders?

I haven't made gravlax in ages. The notes to my old recipe say gin or vodka. As I recall, the liquor taste was neutral, barely there, and that worked for me.

Any longtime homey dessert like this will generate various terminology. Ask 10 people for its name, and you'll get 11 answers. When I did a Google search, "sponge custard" brought up "lemon sponge custard" recipes similar to the lemon pudding cake in the OP. Also a chocolate sponge custard, which I've never tried, and sounds yummy. http://www.incredibleegg.org/recipes-and-more/recipes/chocolate-sponge-custards Sponge cakes with custard fillings are called just that, "sponge cake with custard." Sister Frances Carr named her dessert "lemon cake pudding," but the ingredients, method, and results describe a typical lemon pudding cake.

Yes, that's my thought as I've been reading through this thread. The prototype for "pudding cake," or as the Shakers called it, "cake pudding," would be a pudding base with a small amount of flour. The recipes in this genre (that I've seen) contain 1/4 cup flour or less. The ingredients are all mixed together, and during baking the batter separates magically into a cakey top with sauce underneath. The puddings with liquid poured on top are also another variation of pudding. They require substantially more flour. It may be that they are very close to the liquid-in-batter pudding cakes, although, given the amount of flour, I would expect them to be heavier in texture. I've never tried the liquid-over-the-top puddings myself. Not to worry distinctions too much, though. All these desserts sound delicious.

My ancient copy of Joy of Cooking, dating from 1970s, calls this dessert "Sponge Custard." A short blurb about sponge custards from the cookbook, available on Googlebooks, pages 736-737. Scroll up. http://books.google.com/books?id=C4_5MCUd6ucC&pg=PA737&lpg=PA737&dq=pineapple+sponge+custard&source=bl&ots=2cdWIBmyPR&sig=CyQ1_9X3YIsOb3v6riHFODzGu4k&hl=en&ei=Be5ETc25DZK8sAO4_YT6Cg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=7&ved=0CDoQ6AEwBg#v=onepage&q=pineapple%20sponge%20custard&f=false I've also seen it named "lemon dainty." A old-time dessert, dating from at least the 1930s. See the note underneath the recipe title here: http://acooksca.com/2009/12/30/lemon-dainty/ I've made this recipe for "Baked Lemon Pudding." It's a pudding cake, very good and citrusy. On Googlebooks, Page 346. http://books.google.com/books?id=K97kvceIypUC&pg=PA346&lpg=PA346&dq=baked+lemon+pudding+bauer&source=bl&ots=_K4BJesDmB&sig=LUa-LAp7NNPDY08JuZXzOVi_eC8&hl=en&ei=nehETfKsEI66sQOx2MG_Cg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBcQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false Any food historians out there who can enlighten us as to the history of this dessert, which is pushing one hundred years old? ETA: Shaker Your Plate, by Sister Frances A. Carr, gives a Shaker recipe for Lemon Cake Pudding, noting: "Cake mixture will be at top and sauce at bottom of pudding." That recipe was based on another recipe in an older Shaker cookbook by Mary Whitcher. Sister Carr did not give the name of the cookbook. However, Mary Whitcher did write a Shaker cookbook, Mary Whitcher's Shaker house-keeper, which was published in Boston, 1882. That dessert is olllllddd.....

I suggest: after soaking the dried lily buds, trim off the hard knobby end, then tie the bud into a knot. Someone told me the knots taste better. Not sure about that, but I like the texture of the knots better myself.

I suspect the classy invitation was aimed at a small group of people--very affluent, very busy people who would normally eat out but are trying to lose weight and/or eat more healthy meals. The service is a less expensive option compared to hiring a personal chef, which is something they will also do if they have families. The singles are more receptive to this kind of service. Once I stood in the checkout line at Whole Foods behind a 30-something guy who was buying dinner from the take-out section . He was dressed in casual pants and shirt, seemed out of shape (too much time at the computer), and also seemed very distracted (work). I thought to myself, "software developer" (also, "big six-figure income"). This is what he was buying. Remember, these portions are modest. There are no leftovers. - 2 portions of entrees - 3 portions of side dishes - 1 dessert - 2 bottled drinks - 1 box of cookies What was the bill? Guesses? I scooted over unobtrusively to check his total on the cash register. It was over $65. My jaw dropped. For people in this situation, the delivery service is a good option. They don't even have to drive to Whole Foods for dinner and attract the attention of nosy people like me.

Dcarch, are those thinly sliced strips of chard stalks? Usually I trim away those stalks. I should try to do something else with them. Are the chard stalks sauteed? (if they are chard stalks). Interesting idea of bacon powder on the scallops, too.

For anyone interested, the wine is: 2008 Domaine Paul Pernot Bourgogne Blanc. It costs somewhere around $20 a bottle. I've been drinking it up regularly since it was recommended to me. In fact, that was my last bottle in the house, so I have to order more. Tasty, well-balanced, food-friendly; and this wine has extra oomph from declassified Puligny-Montrachet grapes.

A dinner of Pasta with Clams here. I cooked Alice Waters' recipe in The Art of Simple Food, and it's the best recipe for this dish that I know of. The sauce is basically the juices from the clams, spruced up with garlic, chile flakes, white wine, and parsley. If you don't have to fuss with the raw clams (i.e., purge 'em), this dinner is a quickie. Served with a green salad and a crisp unoaked chardonnay. Some good bread to mop up the juices, too. To make Pasta with Clams: Scrub and rinse 1 lb small clams. If necessary, purge them of sand in cold salted water in the fridge for 30 mins. (I use these proportions for the salted water: 1/3 cup salt in 4 qts H2O. The clams won't purge unless the water is sufficiently salty.) Meanwhile, start heating water for the pasta and figure out the timing for the pasta so that it finishes cooking with the clams. When the clams are ready to cook, drain and rinse. In a heavy saucepan, heat 1 TB extra-virgin olive oil. When hot, add the clams (be careful of spatters), 2 chopped cloves of garlic, a generous pinch of chile flakes, 1/4 cup dry white wine. Cover and cook over medium high heat until the clams open, about 6 mins. Shake the pan occasionally. Meanwhile, cook 1/2 lb of pasta until al dente. When the clams have opened, add in 1 TB chopped parsley and 2 TB extra-virgin olive oil. Combine with the hot cooked pasta. Taste for seasoning. Serve immediately. My variation of a recipe in Alice Waters' The Art of Simple Food.

Most people object to anchovies because they've tasted the oil-preserved anchovies, which may be packed in cheap, or worse, rancid, oil. Those anchovies can taste unpleasantly fishy. Soaking those anchovies in milk helps (Nickrey's suggestion). The salt-cured anchovies have a clean taste. Does your husband dislike the saltiness? I can only suggest the obvious: soak the anchovies in a big bowl of water, changing it a few times to remove as much salt as possible. At best salt-cured anchovies should taste bright rather than salty.

An unusual find at the market, skate wings. I cooked Skate with Brown Butter, Capers, and Lemon. The fish was lightly dredged with seasoned flour, sauteed, then topped with a sauce of brown butter, Meyer lemon juice, and capers. The lemon juice and capers cut the richness of the fish and butter. Served with French bread and a green salad. A simple dinner, and very good.

All the meals here look fantastic. I'd be glad to eat any one of 'em. Not much cooking recently at my house, too many project deadlines and other commitments. The deli and burrito place have been seeing a lot of me. (Also the 7-11, for Haagen Dazs coffee ice cream bars.) A break in my schedule today, so I was thankfully in the kitchen for a better-balanced meal, with vegetables. My favorite hamburger, a patty melt with Acme's rye bread, Swiss cheese, and sauteed onions. On the side, red cabbage cole slaw and potato salad with green garlic. That's the first of the season green garlic here. I was excited to find it in my CSA box.

I would describe galangal as tasting woody and medicinal, some people say it's pine-y. It was an acquired taste for me. So I'm perplexed by your "spicy and fiery" description. Do you always buy your galangal at the same Asian market? Sometimes an Asian market can be creative with its labelling. I wonder if that "galangal" is really a variety of fresh, young ginger root.

That's a "rule" I would take with a pinch of salt (or sugar, if you will). Nothing beats a fresh-baked chocolate chip cookie or apple tart. In fact, some pastries are not so good after a few hours, if the crust loses its crispness. The author of the Saveur article was talking about her family's food of Northern Italy, in an alpine village. She mentions an apple cake with red wine as one of their Xmas desserts. I recall other winter desserts from that area of Northern Italy as also being sturdy in the dough or crust, and filled with dried fruit. I can imagine those desserts would improve with a little aging. For myself, I like to age homemade ice cream in the freezer for 4-6 hrs before service. I think the flavors mellow during that time.

A fatty fish in puff pastry with a creamy spinach mousse? This says chardonnay to me. A Google search produced this recipe which sounds like what your cooks have in mind. (Is it cheating to tell you this? Sorry.) I can't think of any sparkling wine that would match well with this rich dish. Note that the champagne is seriously cooked down for the sauce. Substitute some chardonnay for the champagne and the sauce would probably taste better. http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/emeril-lagasse/puff-pastry-wrapped-salmon-watercress-mousse-champagne-chive-butter-sauce-buttered-new-potatoes-recipe/index.html The cooks have chosen a heavy French-style dish and forbidden you to match it with a big white wine from France or California. Are they trying to challenge you, or what?

Not something I've seen in the food mecca where I live. And if anyone in the SF Bay Area can point me to a fish market like that, pls do! The Asian markets carry a wider variety of seafood compared to the regular supermarkets, but the Asian markets can be careless about labeling and handling their fish, I regret to say. Nothing so well-organized and pristine like your fish market, Nick. Thanks for a great blog.

Another possibility for salt cod, in a spicy tomato sauce with pasta. I discovered this one while flipping thru Rosetta Costantino's My Calabria cookbook last night. I haven't tried it, of course, but I'm curious about it. The recipe is on Googlebooks, page 71. Here: http://books.google.com/books?id=86R77RdzTj8C&pg=PA71&lpg=PA71&dq=costantino+spaghetti+with+salt+cod+spicy+tomato+sauce&source=bl&ots=vW5jHJJsc2&sig=rOslSufhwnhVKPDItxZuYuP3YmU&hl=en&ei=Zy4yTeOGDI64sAPNsoytBQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBMQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false

Somehow this topic has veered off so that "served with a sauce" has become "covered with a sauce." Nobody here has suggested a heavy-duty sauced dish like Coquilles St Jacques. A complex acidic sauce, almost like a dipping sauce, will enhance those scallops--more so than ordinary lemon juice or vinegar, IMO.

Another variation of the citrus sauce, that I tasted once in a cooking demo, Scallops in Tangerine Sauce from Paula Wolfert's Cooking of Southwest France. Very good! The recipe is here: http://www.chow.com/recipes/12328-scallops-in-tangerine-sauce You can use a good brand of tangerine juice, like Odwalla, instead of fresh tangerines. The tangerine juice should be reduced to 1/3 cup.

Your post sent me rifling thru my cookbook shelf, for the one recipe I remember cooking that specified savoy cabbage. It was Baked Buckwheat Noodles with Brown Butter and Savoy Cabbage from Deborah Madison's Greens cookbook. It's originally a dish from Northern Italy, called pizzoccheri della valtellina. I remember it was unusual, yummy, and rich. An adapted recipe is available on this blog (the ingredients are slightly altered in quantity compared to the original recipe, but you get the idea). http://marcsala.blogspot.com/2008/11/savoy-it-wins-you-at-glance-savoy-gives.html