Broke out the tabletop grills: Slices of lamb loin marinated in sake, crushed mint, much minced garlic, grapeseed oil, s&p. Thick slices of white mushrooms about as big as my fist, marinated in shoyu and dashi. Trimmed scallions. Baby bok choy halves. Slices of monkfish marinated in dashi and mirin and minced lemongrass. Tsukemono: Mustard green pickles, takuan, cabbage kimchee, daikon kimchee. Stacks of scallion pancakes. Hiyayako (cold silken tofu) with flyingfish roe on top.