I just returned to Berlin after a 10 year absence. Things have indeed changed in many ways. I have not been out to eat yet so can't recommend any restaurants. But I would like to defend the food: Now, as then, the meats and vegetables, even at the local corner grocery, taste much much better than what I can get in my fancy and expensive foodie shops in southern California. I fried some lowly pork chops tonight. No watery discharge! They browned right up and tasted, well, like they came from pork chop heaven.