paulraphael

Darienne, your own experience is your best guide (although it sounds like ice cream doesn't stick around for too many minutes at your house ...) -33C is a mighty cold freezer. I've been taught that below -25C, ice cream is completely stable and that ice crystals simply won't grow (because 100% of the water in the ice cream, at least in any kind of normal recipe, will be frozen). If this is correct then your ice creams should last weeks and weeks without getting icy. But I can't vouch for this with personal experience.

That should read "asparagus" in both places, not "garlic". Gotta lay off the mid-day hooch.

I used to live next door to a insane person who also happened to be an ice sculptor. His setup for creating clear ice blocks used some kind of circulator that kept the water in motion while it froze i the molds. Somehow this kept air out of the ice and prevented imperfections from forming. His blocks were at least a couple of cubic feet and were clear as glass.

I've had stringy, flossy thin garlic before. But this is unusual ... generally I prefer the tenderness and the flavor of thin garlic. I'm curious to know why it's sometimes stringy, and if there's a way to tell before you buy it.

Next time I'll probably just juice the buggers.

So, I decided to make some sorbet with these beautiful Meyer lemons I found, and ended up with a bitter pill to swallow. This might have been the mistake: instead of just juicing the lemons, I peeled them and then pureed and strained them. I didn't think this would be a problem, since this has worked well with oranges, and since meyer lemons can be mild enough to eat whole. The puree itself had a fairly bitter taste to it. I went ahead anyhow, thinking maybe the sweetness would ameliorate it. No such luck. Basic proportions: 1000g total; 5 pureed lemons (270g after straining), 2 of them zested. Everything is great as far as texture, tartness, sweetness, etc., but the flavor tastes like grapefruit with extra helpings of pith. I don't have much experience with Meyer lemons. Was it a mistake to puree rather than juice, or might I have just gotten some nasty ones?

I usually make sorbet with strawberries, but I can tell you how I'd put together a strawberry ice cream recipe. First, look up online and find out the water and sugar content of the berries. Reduce your recipe's sugar and milk accordingly, based on whatever portion of the berries you plan to puree. Then add nonfat dry milk to the recipe. I'd try between 20 and 40 grams per KG of your recipe. For the berries that don't get pureed, I'd macerate them in a portion of the recipe's sugar overnight. This will suppress their freezing point. Add them right at the end of churning.

Amen.

Russ Parsons' How to Pick a Peach is a great resource. In many cases, especially with fruits, I'll use fragrance as a tie breaker. If there are two varieties of plums that look good, I'll let my nose decide. Probably not infallible, but it beats guessing.

I'm with Shamanjoe. My DW and I vastly prefer thin asparagas - but it does need to be fresh. Agreed! I like the thin stuff. For one thing, it's more tender so you don't generally have to do any peeling.

It starts with an idea, then the exploration of how to do it. Some ideas are so similar to what I already know that this part is trivial. Like, using rosemary in recipe X instead of thyme. Other ideas put me on new ground entirely. In these cases, like If I don't know enough about the ingredients and techniques involved, I do research. This may or may not involve using existing recipes for reference. Finally I'll put together a recipe based on what I've learned. In the case of something technical, like ice cream, a certain amount of math will be involved. Then I'll make it: version 1.0. Try it. If it's perfect (unlikely) I'm done. If not, I study the variables and decide what changes to make for version 2. Eventually I get there. I'm no good at guessing which ideas will be quick and easy to nail, and which will turn into long battles. Every onece in a while i'll come up with something that piques other people's interest. In those cases I'm the beneficiary of guinee pigs. This is great, because I can see how resilient the recipe is when confronted by other people's ingredients, habits, ovens, climates, etc... Sometimes, for example, I'll be lucky enough to get a tester who lives a vertical mile higher than I do, who can provide feedback on necessary altitude adjustments to a cookie or cake.

The plating is thick; your egg whites won't know the difference between a plated penny and a solid copper penny. It would take a lot to disolve the plating off. Certainly more than a few hundred dips in meringue. Both copper and zinc are essential nutrients in low doses, and toxic in high doses, although you'd be better off swallowing an old penny rather than a new one. If you're concerned about pennies leaking zinc (I'm not) you could make sure you use pennies from 1982 or earlier.

They cost a fortune. You can get the same results by throwing a few untarnished pennies into the bowl, along with a pinch of acid like cream of tartar. It's important to not use acid if you're using a copper bowl ... it will disolve way too much copper into your whites, which will taste bad and potentially be toxic. But you can use this same phenomenon to extract a reasonable amount of copper ion from the tiny surface area of few coins. I keep a bag of pennies in the kitchen because I think they're the best pastry weights.

What kind of permit? In most states, as far as I know, there's no official permit required. But insurance companies will sometimes throw a hissy fit (and if you don't tell them about the installation, which may violate fire codes, you void your insurance). Many commercial equipment sellers just refuse to do home deliveries or installations. They're afraid of potential lawsuits. The biggest costs are that the installation of the 3/4" gas line, the commercial hood (absolutely required), and the masonry firewall behind the range (absolutely positively required). these will generally more than offset the cost savings. That said, the performance advantages might be worth the price and hassle, depending on your outlook. Don't let anyone tell you that the quasi-commercial ranges (wolf, blue star, dcs, etc.) are similar to their commercial brethren in performance. They're not even close.

A great accessory would be a walk-in fridge that you could roll the whole thing into!

In the impractical category, I would love a commercial fridge. Not a lowboy or walk in, just a standard upright model, with racks for sheet pans instead of shelves. Such a superior design to home fridges. And no space wasting features like vegetable crispers and butter cozies.

That's hardcore. What size?

Commercial plastic wrap deserves its own shrine. And I'm embarrassed to say I've never bought any. But every time I leave my butcher shop or a restaurant kitchen I resolve to rectify this. Of the many commercial doodads I like, sheet pans are the most indispensable. I have a pile of half sheets and have recently discovered the 1/4 sheet. Surprisingly useful. Baking pans are also up there ... the 14 gauge, straight sided aluminum ones. Big stockpots: no reason to buy anything but commercial beaters. And little stuff: tongs, fish spats, pallet knives, etc... I've never found use for hotel pans at home. Maybe someone can enlighten me.

Missing the point. The chicken is presumed contaminated. Rinsing does nothing to decontaminate it, but is very effective at spreading the bacteria all over the kitchen. Cooking is what actually gets rid of the bacteria.

I've wondered about that a lot, especially since the chef is on display while working. Makes me wonder if the inspectors look the other way under certain circumstances.

To a religious person I think that's like saying "Well, if you don't agree with your parents then why did you choose them?" I wish more people behaved as Jenni imagines ... challenge their beliefs and informing them with reason and skepticism. But in my experience they more often behave as Rob describes. Challenging dogmatic beliefs with a rational argument is like trying to motivate a frozen mastodon with a riding crop.

If the place is a disaster, sure, but there are little things, like putting on gloves. In NYC the law says that you have to wear latex gloves to handle food that's ready to eat, but you never see anyone in a higher end restaurant kitchen using them. At that level people just wash their hands religiously. It's customary, I think, for everyone to slip into gloves when the inspector is walking down the hall.

The issue is that aluminum has to be welded to aluminum, and aluminum handles are a lousy idea on most pans. Too conductive. I have a big commercial stockpot with aluminum loop handles. In this case they work fine. They're attached with big spot welds.

Your point is based entirely on conjecture. Wonder all you want about B's position on Italian Grandmas and pho, but he says nothing explicitly about it. His only example of different rules for different people involves religion, and we've already hammered on this problem.

Sure, and this why I enjoy the piece and even agree with it mostly, in spite of problems with the argument. And I think those problems can still merit a discussion, because they're relevant beyond the article. Bourdain has raised some important questions without having resolved them.