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Lesley C

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Everything posted by Lesley C

  1. I had some seriously awful food at Soto, especially anything outside the sushi offerings. And, really, the service wasn't so hot either. Still, I know this restaurant had a ton of fans.
  2. This just in: Montréal, 2 mars 2005- Les dirigeants du Restaurant Soto McGill, situé au 500, rue McGill, dans le Vieux- Montréal, ont le regret d'annoncer la fermeture de cet établissement. Le propriétaire, Monsieur Samer Hassan, déclare que cette décision a été prise pour des raisons personnelles en concertation avec le chef Junichi Ikematsu, aux commandes de la cuisine depuis 1999 et dont le grand talent avait fortement contribué à la renommée de la maison. En effet, Monsieur Hassan se trouvait dans l'impossibilité d'assurer une gestion suivie du restaurant en raison de ses nombreuses activités tant au pays qu'à l'étranger. Le restaurant Soto McGill, où on allait entreprendre de vastes travaux de rénovation et de décoration, était considéré comme le flambeau de la cuisine japonaise à Montréal. Ses dirigeants tiennent à remercier leurs nombreux clients qui, par leur fidélité, avaient fortement contribué à son succès.
  3. Lesley C

    Quiche

    Regarding step #8 of the recipe, I was taught a great little trick by a French pastry chef to waterproof the shell. Dock the base of the raw shell (this will prevent it from puffing up when it goes back into the oven), then, after removing the parchment and weights, pour in a few tablespoons of the quiche custard into the shell and spread it to the edges, blocking the holes. Then return the crust to the oven for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow the shell to cool. French pastry chef Christine Ferber also docks the dough, then brushes the base of her dough with a beaten egg before finishing the blind baking. Another trick for baking is to watch the custard at the end of the baking time. If it even begins to puff around the edges, remove it immediately from the oven. Quiche makers should think of the custard in the same light as a creme caramel. It can still quiver slightly in the middle when it's done because it will set up as it cools.
  4. No way! Keep it a surprise.
  5. A very special restaurant. I was there a week ago and had a great meal. It's a completely different restaurant, and it was thrilling just to experience something so different. Very cool.
  6. That's not the point I was making. But anyway, chances are if you did score those key limes, they wouldn't be good key limes but key limes in terrible shape that would cost a fortune (and key limes are small and full of seeds so you would need a ton of them to get a cup's worth). Just look at the pink garlic from Provence you can buy at Chez Louis. It costs an arm and a leg and it's usually sprouting and old. So, yes you're getting an authentic product, but you're getting an authentic product at its worst. So that well-crafted dish made with an authentic but poor quality ingredient would be second best anyway. No?
  7. I tell them a critic with a positive attitude can ba a boon to the city. Ultimately, we do much more good than harm. As for the rest, maybe I've just been hanging out with picky foodies too long who yack on about Meyer lemons and Mexican vanilla. I find it tedious. The longer I'm immersed in the food world, the more I enjoy the bigger picture. I'm fine with a Key Lime Pie NOT made with Key Limes. Or, better yet, I'll take a well-crafted Key Lime Pie made with Persian limes over a poorly contructive one made with Key Limes.
  8. Hey, maxanon, I never told anyone to shut their gob. Those are your ugly words, not mine. Also, when I post on eGullet, I'm not posting as a critic, as in, I'm not posting in a professional capacity. I don't post any reviews on this board. I'm just another opinionated foodie. The difference between you and me on this board is that I don't hide behind a screen name. Second, I really did mean what I said about moving if you don't like it here. Why do I say that? Because like so many Montrealers, the thought has crossed my mind many, many times. Better food, better job, better climate, less politics. IMO, good reasons to leave. But I decided to stay, so I'm going to stop bitching about what's wrong with Montreal and start looking at the bright side. After 37 years here, I have had my fill of killjoys crapping on my city. Sure I have issues with the lack of good pastry shops, the sorry selection of European kitchen appliances, and sloppy restaurants that charge a mint. But you'll find those problems in many North American cities. However, here I'm encouraged by the work of the next generation of chefs and producers. Things are looking up. But when I hear people complaining about the good stuff, like the bread, I will happily pound my fist and say they are wrong.
  9. More than two four-star restaurants...I don't think Montreal could support more. Right now, we're a city with too many high-end restaurants. I walk into these places and many of them are EMPTY. It's heartbreaking. It goes back to demand and supply. Today the white asparagus is rotting on the shelves, tomorrow it's gone. Also, "plenty of wealth in Montreal" doesn't mean plenty of big spenders in Montreal. Some of the richest people I know are the cheapest. And most of the food lovers I know aren't driving expensive cars.
  10. I'm just saying there are a lot of people out there who can't be so choosy about what they eat. There's more than enough here to keep people happy. I mean that seriously when I say, if it's not good enough for you, if food is so important that you can get hot under to collar and insult people and turn into a big bore about what we don't have, well, I think you should pack up the car and head down the TransCanada to your Whole Foods, Capers, and Terra Breads. For people to go so far as to say we don't have good bread in this city...well...I just don't know what the hell they are after. Remember Le Passe Partout? They went under and they were making the best bread in town. Last time I bought a loaf there, I didn’t see a soul in the place. But now that they are gone --and everyone is so sad and sorry -- thank God we have places like Le Fromentier to fall back on. And why compare? Montreal isn't TO (thank God), Boston, LA, or NY. We're Montreal, where you can find over 300 varieties of local cheese, the best foie gras in North America, organic farmers like Mr. Daignault and Mr. Homer supplying our better restos, grocers like Chez Louis and Nino importing wild arugula and Provencal garlic, and a cast and crew of fabulous up-and-coming chefs who are sure to keep the scene strong for the next two decades. So we don't have hot dogs sold on street corners. Big Deal. If we had them here there would be no reason to buy that hot dog in New York. Anyway, talk to any Canadian chef who is familiar with our city and he or she will tell you Montreal is a pretty kick ass food city. Bourdain certainly said so, and he's been around the block. So that's good enough for me.
  11. Yeah, well I do think it's a little rich to drone on about our lack of choice ingredients. Ever go shopping in St-Kitts? And, dutchrusk, nice jab , but I pay for more meals than you can imagine. And, just like you, I pay for my groceries, be they white asparagus or bran flakes.
  12. Creme fraiche: combine 500 ml 35% cream with 2 tablespoons (30 ml) buttermilk in a mason jar with a clip lid (I use an old Cassoulet container for this). Place on top of your fridge (over the motor on the warm spot) and in 24 hours you'll have creme fraiche. I know it's not from Normandy, but it's thick, silky and nutty, and does the job -- well! I find it interesting to hear people complain about our lack of products in the city. My big gripe is with the shitty quality of vegetables we find in our supermarkets. But hey, I can live within the limits on our supply. Salad looks crappy. OK, head for the parsnips or salsify. Raspberries are going for $5 a pint. But them frozen, and make a sorbet instead. At my local Metro store I can buy pheasant, bison, deer, guinea hen, foie gras, Le Breton pork, and Valrhona chocolate. Not too shabby. OK, it isn't as good as a French supermarket, but it's miles better than it was just 2 years ago. A friend in Paris always complains about the lack of variety at her local market. When I'm there it looks pretty good to me. The point here is, if you aren't happy, talk to your grocer or specialty shop owner about stocking said products (I got my grocer to stock Mozzarina and Caprifeuille goat's cheese). If that doesn't work out, hey, at least you gave it a go. If it's ruining your life, move. If not, cook using the GOOD products we have here in Quebec. As for buttermilk, hey the stuff I buy makes AMAZING pancakes. Maybe if people were drinking it in mass quantities we would have better buttermilk. But that ain't happening. I have seen high-quality products (like white asparagus) rott away on shelves because no one is willing to pay the price, or they haven't a clue what to do with them. We could have all the products that have been mentioned here, and someone will always come along and say, "Hey, the SAQ sucks. Those idiots don't carry lemon-flavoured Grappa!!!"
  13. Big thumbs up! Highly recommended! One of the best meals I have had in a long time at that price range. Also, nice staff, short but well-chosen wine list. Duck, salmon, deer carpaccio and lemon tart are superb!
  14. Hi moose1111, Thanks for that review. I have heard only good things about this new restaurant. I'm eager to taste Claude's food again. And BTW, welcome to eGullet!
  15. Hi Natalie, Welcome to Quebec! Can you be more specific about the differences in style of wine in each store? I was at a Languedoc and Rousillon wine tasting here in Montreal hosted by Sopexa. The TO journalists were flown in to the city because of the SARS situation. I'll tell you, is was FASCINATING to see the differences of opinion between the wine writers from Quebec and those from Ontario. The anglos tended to favour the oaky reds. Do you see any differences between the Quebec and Canadian palates?
  16. I followed two superb cooking classes in Provence, The first at the Hostellerie Berard with the ever-charming René BÉRARD in Cadière D’Azur near Bandol. http://www.hotel-berard.com/cadrevgb.htm And another excellent one in Avignon at Hotel La Mirande http://www.la-mirande.fr/home.html click on Les Ateliers de Cuisine Prices are steep, but trust me their nineteenth century kitchen is to Die For!! And the food was superb. It was even a treat to make souffles in their antique bowls using a beautiful old scale and wood-burning oven. At the end of the class you sit around the table and eat and drink yourself silly. Check through the site for pictures of the kitchen.
  17. They're reworking it. Stay tuned.
  18. What about Chez L'Epicier? Also, Les Chevres would most certainly be a good bet.
  19. Um... could you tell me where you picked up this piece of gossip. The people at the restaurant don't seem to know anything abou it. Please people, don't post this kind of bold statement unless you're sure it's something more than a rumour.
  20. Was at the Rockland SAQ today. Things are getting ugly. You now have to stand in line to get in and they only let a few people in at a time and there's a cop at the door. This is Dec. 15th. I figure by the 24th that lineup will be crazy. My advice: buy your booze NOW.
  21. Wow, that's surprising, there are some pretty smart guys at Rockland. They also supply a ton of restaurants.
  22. I shop at Rockland and I have no problem crossing a picket line (these people have it a hell of a lot better than I do). I have a small cellar and I've been holding back from drinking the good stuff. I buy a case at a time now, but have no problem heading to the open SAQ outlets for my wine. I hear the head buyer is working at the De Maisonneuve store, so you're bound to get some good advice there. I have been to several restaurants lately that are running low on supplies, but the situation is far from dire.
  23. How about: "Sorry, that's just not good enough!" Or, a little stronger... "GET OUT!" What did she say to the gardener she tried to run over? Something like "Get out of my way or I'll crush you." Maybe something along those lines
  24. This just in... Le Club Chasse et Pêche Restaurant Bar Salon ouvrira ses portes le 31 décembre 2004 info: hubert@leclub-mtl.ca 423, rue Saint-Claude 514-861-1112 Au plaisir de vous recevoir, Claude Pelletier et Hubert Marsolais membres fondateurs
  25. I want in on that show! Bring it on Martha! I could totally beat her in a croquenbouche competition. And her knife skills suck. But she might get me on Latin plant terms, Christmas tree decorating, and advanced glue gun techniques.
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