
Lesley C
eGullet Society staff emeritus-
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Everything posted by Lesley C
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Ugh, I just caught a segment on today's show with Susan Lucci. How demeaning for poor Martha to suck up to minor celebrities. She was so much better flirting with the Balthazar chefs while making steak/frites. The celebrity element of this show hurts it the most. I would think the audience for her past show would be turned off by all this fluff as she used to supply some useful information. I don't want Martha giving advice on how to take care of an orchid then turn around and say, "So tell me Susan, are you the highest paid soap star?" Click, I turned it off right there. And Martha is just putting it on – thick. It must be killing her. She's fumbling her lines, she's rushing through segments. Perfectionists can take that kind of abuse. I’ll bet she’s really on a rampage after these shows. I give it six months before she goes back to her pre-taped, heavily edited format. And she should. It was miles better than this crap.
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One of the strengths of the old Martha show was her segments with chefs like Eric Ripert and Daniel Boulud. I can't imagine anything but quickie useless recipes coming out of this tense, live format. I mean, how the heck is she going to make a croquembouche in five minutes?
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Just caught the new Martha! live show. Very odd intro with Burnett and opening credits where the whole "I'm Martha!" thing is played up BIG TIME. It started with Martha walking onto the set in unflattering jeans holding a dog, followed by the whole staff showing off their gold prison-style ankle bracelets (so much for pretending the prison thing didn't happen). Then Martha rambled on a bit -- rather uncomfortably -- describing the show, followed by a nice feature on New Orleans stories they had done in the past. Then I had to take a call and missed the rest of the show. Anyone else see it? I think I like the old format better -- and maybe the old Martha better too.
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Joe Beef is not the Globe group. The owners are David McMillan and Frederic Morin.
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Speaking for myself... Grandbois produces moulded chocolates. There is very little technique in what she does, and even the moulding is poorly done. Next time you taste one of her bonbons, check out how thick the base is. That's a major mistake. Nice flavours, attractive packaging -- granted -- but on the technique front there's little there. It's basically just the same-flavoured-ganache based candy in the same shape over and over and over and over and over...
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Trust me, Ed Behr doesn't need to rely on anyone's opinions. He does just fine for himself.
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Had a good one at A L'Os
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Well, I wouldn't quite agree with that. I have received more than one letter regarding uppity service at La Chronique. Never happened to me, but I can see where they are coming from.
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Tough call. They are entirely different. I would say Toque! because we really are at the height of the local season and it is bound to be at its best. Check out both menus online and see if there's a dish that grabs you.
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Oh yes, I second the Pont de L'Ouysse. I had a very nice lunch there outside before heading to Rocamadour. I think they have a Michelin star, no?
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Actually, what's very sad is that the last chef there -- a French Canadian fellow -- was pulling off some great food. My first review (Jan 2001) I gave them 3 1/2 stars. But he left soon after. Dommage!
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Overlord, I started out as a pastry chef. I know a shitty chocolate mousse cake when I see one. I found their entire dessert cart dated and of very poor quality. Things were miles better when Jean Ricardi was there, but he's long gone and his replacement is far from impressive. Desserts aside, when I dined there I had a $39 salmon filet and wrote in my review: "The dish consisted of nothing more than a large slab of farnmed salmon set atop a few frazzled fried artichokes, a handful of zucchini slices, and an insipid roasted tomato and parsley oil. With such negligible effort poured into the accompaniments and the creativity of the dish, I couldn’t help feeling ripped off." That dish was a complete disgrace. And $39 for farmed salmon! Hang your heads in shame boys.
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Oh my God!!! Foklarama! THE BEST! I still have my blue passport! I used to go in the early eighties. The food is incredible. OK, I remeber the Greek pavillion, the Italian, the French Canadian (big scene), the Canadian Indian (ate a buffalo burger), the Russian, the Ukranian, the Polish, the Hungarian, the Lithuanian, the Irish, the English and on and on...The food really was superb and the music was great. I would go back just for the Ukranian dancing! I'm surprised none of the food mags have ever written this up. I can't think of another event like this that places such emphasis on difeerent ethnic foods and culture.
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Just back from that region. It's a drive but try to check out Le Vieux Logis in Tremolat. Had a fabulous lunch there, which for four with wine was 169 euros. Great value and they have one of the most beautiful garden dining rooms I have ever seen. And the amuse bouche was a creme brulee de foie gras, a dish that I usually DESPISE, but this one was outstanding. Simple, but absolutely delicious food, and superb service. If you can, book a room and make a night of it. It's a Relais & Chateau hotel as well and rooms start at 159 euros. Apparently Henry Miller liked it so much, he stayed a month!
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A bit late in the game, but another big thumbs up for this book. My one complaint follows Andy's about the repetition of certain passages. Otherwise, I couldn't put it down. Good stuff. I'm surprised this thread isn't more active now that the book is released. A must read for everyone who cares about the history of Nouvelle Cuisine, the Michelin circus, and what it takes to make a three-star chef (like all-out obsession and millions of francs).
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Sorry overlord, but I just can not agree. The Beaver Club is expensive and second rate. You could do far better almost anywhere. And really, again overlord I'm surprised...the desserts are terrible. Wonder if we went to the same restaurant?
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Check out Beaucastel near, if I remember correctly, Orange. When I was there in the fall of 2003, they were talking about opening up a restaurant. As for Beaurenard, it's very homey, and they have an interesting Musee de la Vigne with all sorts of antique wine-making equipment. Nice people as well.
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FYI, the owner of Les Halles denied the restaurant was for sale when that rumour was first posted.
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I say yeah sure. As long as there's good food to go with that good wine. Anyway, aren't the boys at BU already working on another place in front of BU?
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I'm testing both the KA and Cuisinart makers this week for an article. The KA was iffy for a few reasons. One, it doesn't have a lid, which means loss of temperature. It's also not hygenic (but that's the bacteria-crazed ice cream maker in me speaking). There was a fly buzzing around my kitchen when I was churning the ice cream and he came pretty close to melding in alongside the chocolate chips a few times. Second, I almost broke the paddle when I accidently increased the speed and then went back to the stir speed. I heard a horrible "crunch" noise. Nothing broke, but I think it might if it ever happened again. Third, the Cuisinart offers the option of having multiple canisters. If I want to make chocolate and vanilla ice cream for a dessert, I have to wait 24 hours with the KA, whereas I can have the second freezer canister going right after the first with the Cuisinart. There's also a Cuisinart model that offers two canisters going at once. With the KA, multiple canisters is not an option and never will be. Cuisinart test to come soon...
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Hey Anthony, Sure, we'll do your work for you. Why should you bust your ass? Just make out the cheque to Lesley C, c/o egullet... Give me a break!
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From my column two weeks ago... Da Pizza a Nizza, or Nizza for short, formerly Da Pizzattaro at 1121 Anderson near Rene-Levesque (514) 861-7076 has renovated and reopened as of May 16th. Chef Armand Forcherio’s past experience includes stints at Les Ramparts, Laloux and La Brioche Lyonnaise. His twin brother, Ange, who acts as Nizza’s maitre d’ and sommelier, last worked as sommelier at Toqué!. The brothers co-own the restaurant with partner Moreno DiMarchi, the exuberant restaurateur behind Le Latini, located next door. Don’t expect pizza at Nizza. The menu is Provencal and features dishes like grilled and braised calamari, fish soup and hot foie gras for starters. Main courses include octopus ravioli, wood-roasted lamb shoulder, and a good selection of grilled fresh fish of the day. The sweet side of the menu offers tapioca with saffron, cheesecake with rhubarb sorbet and nutmeg ice cream. The dining room has been completely renovated. The décor is best described as a sort of Morrocan 1930’s house, with two floors, wood panels, and a large terrace. Patrons can also enjoy Chef Armand’s tapas-size “plats” at the bar. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner Monday to Saturday.
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Funny, I was just in South Carolina and I was shocked by all the crappy cheap wine there. And take a look -- or better yet a taste -- of the cheap stuff in France and you might not hate the SAQ so much. I have bought a ton of nice wine in the $20 range at the SAQ, mostly French. As for the Little Penguin, they are having a big launch party this week. Don't forget, if it's crowding SAQ shelves, it's paying good money to be there.
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Ah yes, but out of that cesspool emerged restaurants like Toque!
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Actually the steak didn't look all that bad (well, maybe a bit dry). It's everything else that looked lousy. That sauce looks like baby puke. Sorry to be so graphic, but it does. And with all the great opportunities for outdoor photography in the summer, you gotta question why they took a shot like that in studio.