larrylee

http://www.app.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?A...PINION/60530007 Posted by the Asbury Park Press on 10/4/06 Assemblyman Michael J. Panter, D-Monmouth – E-mail AsmPanter@njleg.org Office: 167 Avenue of the Common, Suite 7, Shrewsbury, NJ 07702 Phone: 732-544-2116 Fax: 732-544-4016

According to the 7/27/05 NYT piece Sichuan's Signature Is Now Legal Again, it was illegal to import Sichuan peppercorns since 1968. Excerpt from the story: Sichuan peppercorns give you the "ma" or tingly component of the signature Sichuan heat profile. Most "Sichuan" (or most likely "Szechuan") dishes present only the fiery "la" heat, basically what most people generally consider to be spicy/hot. Once you've experienced it, "ma" is a sensation you will likely never forget. If you like it, you'll be forever sworn off the "Szechuan" fare served in most places. The general absence of Sichuan peppercorns and the prevalent use of those tiny little red peppers in these so-called "Szechuan" dishes leads me to believe that this is an ingredient generally not seen to be worth the extra effort and expense to obtain and use. It would be like McDonald's using fleur de sel on their fries.

Daniel, this is around the corner from my office but I've never been. I took a walk over there and according to the faded NYT review out front, they do use sichuan peppercorns. I didn't bother walking in to ask because I've had mixed results asking that question in English at other establishments. However, I may try to go back on Thursday for a look-see.

CUT THROUGH THE FAT?????????????????????????????????? DITTO re the eel dish. Best I've ever had at a (NYC) Shanghainese restaurant -- by far. ← LOL, I had the same thought about "cutting through the fat" comment. What a crying shame...

I figured that the answer was going to be either Honmura An or Sobaya. So if I understand this correctly, both Honmura An and SobaKoh make their soba noodles on-site, while Sobaya... I think imports their noodles, yes? Can you give us some tips on characteristics of excellent soba? The flavor of the noodle, the texture, what to look for in the broth, etc?

Todd, who's their main competitor? My wife and I ate there shortly after they first opened and we thought the soba was not particular remarkable, so I was interested to read that Meehan agreed, too. We'll have to make a return trip. I like that Takahashi sources his own buckwheat from local organic sources.

I was wondering about the disconnect between "Peach Festival" and the photos, too. Regardless, thanks for the post! Did you try any of the foods there? I've heard that oysters in Korea taste very different than those in America. I'm curious if anyone can provide a comparison.

If you're going to Red Hook then I think your time will be better spent at the soccer fields.

The reservation policy was mentioned in this piece from the NY Sun: A Top Chef Arrives in New York (Finally). Specifically: It seems as though the policy has changed? Or maybe someone just got it completely wrong.

Have you asked them the melonpan are no longer carried?

Sounds cool! Thanks for posting that.

MJP, have you gone down to Panya (Menupages) to ask? Or perhaps the counter at Cafe Zaiya? 10th/11th Aves near West 54th doesn't strike me as a hotbed of Japanese bakery activity. You're better off searching around the east village.

The War Over Salt (New York Times)

Corn, corn, everywhere, and not a kernel to eat. Well, not really, but... Ethanol's rise prompts worries of a corn crunch (Christian Science Monitor) NPR aired a related story this morning, but I was unable to find it on their web site. The CSM article is from July. The issue appears to be that corn, used in the production of ethanol, is getting a lot of focus as a result of a push for more biofuels. The demand has caused the price of corn to rise. It will impact the cost of food in ways both direct and indirect. Iowa is both the primary producer of corn and pork in the US. Corn is a primary component in pork, beef, and chicken feed, primarily because it is cheap. Corn syrup is ubiquitous in mass produced foods. Not to mention the corn we buy in markets. From the CSM: The NPR story focuses on the "food versus fuel" question, but the CSM article points out: The CSM also mentions cellulosic ethanol, which does not rely on corn. If there's a silver lining in this, maybe an increase in the cost of beef will reduce its consumption, along the lines of what Steingarten when wrote "We should consume beef infrequently, but when we do, we should buy only the most tender, rich, juicy, and flavorful beef we can afford." A pipe dream at best.

Hopefully this isn't too off-topic: From yesterday's NY Times: I definitely agree after our recent trip.

I had lunch at Gramercy Tavern recently and had a really nice meal of sweetbreads and hangar steak. The service is impeccable. You can eat in the "Tavern" portion without a reservation, and the smell of smoked wood gently permeates the space. It sounds like you're coming to hit all the big budget restaurants. In contrast, might I suggest Prune? Reservations are not difficult, though it helps if your party is 4 or fewer. We went for dinner recently and although they were mysteriously not serving several dishes I was keen to try, we had a really enjoyable meal of the roast suckling pig, tiger prawns, succotash, baked beans, and stewed yellow lentils. The suckling pig was served with a portion of deep fried pork rind. Pickled cherry tomatoes and a black-eyed pea salad provided a refreshing tart contrast, and the chipotle mayo helped smooth the whole dish out. The baked beans were made with, I think, fava beans, a nice surprise. Needless to say, absolutely nothing like what you get from a can. The corn, lima beans, and green beans in the succotash were so fresh we ordered a second bowl. The flavor from the yellow lentils was also outstanding. It was a little hard to cut the grilled spring onion, but it had a very nice grilled flavor. Homey American cuisine, I guess, but better than most people could or would ever make at home. I'd definitely go back. I'll be a third vote against Spice Market. You could stop by to try the durian ice cream, which had a nice texture. It might have been served in a Chinese take-out container, too. Another thought - if you'd like to try some extraordinarily fresh sushi without trying to secure a reservation, try the lounge at Morimoto. Fish is flown in, I believe, four times a week from Tsukiji. Go early to secure one of the few tables downstairs. If you really want to try Nobu, try going to Nobu Next Door instead. No reservations, and I believe they serve only dinner.

NY Times

Thanks! Louisa!

FN has definitely been straying into food entertainment. I guess it's successful for them, but I find myself only watching a handful of shows. jgm: do you have a link to the web site announcing the show?

At Per Se, parties of two are seated at the same-size tables as parties of four. ← I seem to recall that parties of two were mostly seated along the wall separating the two levels of the seating area. The benefit is that both members of the party get nice views out the window.

According to the NYT blurb on Momofuku Ssam Bar, the ssam are available in either tortillas or lettuce. Did anyone notice lettuce being used, or order any ssam with lettuce?

So, to borrow a line from Tampopo, "it lacks gestalt."

BTW, here is the NYT writeup (spelled You-Chun in the piece, go figure) http://events.nytimes.com/2005/08/24/dinin...be9f967&ei=5070 This space used to be "i36 BBQ" and has changed names a few times, simplifying from restaurant fare towards bar fare. A shame, since i36 had a really nice yook hwe, but I digress. I wonder if the karaoke room is still in the back/upstairs. Given the current musical accompaniment, it seems the owners may still tinkering with the restaurant's formula. MIS's specialty is supposed to be chik naeng myun, which I can only assume is still the case. Chik, aka arrowroot, produces a more flavorful noodle than buckwheat, though I prefer the latter. And for that, I really like the version at Dae Dong, at 55 W 35th St. There's a high blue awning with the name printed in English. It's true that the flavor of the broth is important, but for a dish that has only two components (noodles and broth), the noodles are just as important. Specifically, the texture of the noodles. To observe the difference, try the dish at Dae Dong and Kum Gan San. At Kum Gan San you'll be chewing the noodles forever. Vinegar and mustard (kyuh-ja, which is kind of like wasabi but sweeter) are commonly served with naeng myun. Gina, I'd be really curious to hear about Hamu Nengmyun.

Couldn't... resist... urge... to... respond... Different types of salt will taste different to your palate, but when it is dissolved in water it will all taste the same. As a general rule, it doesn't make monetary sense to cook with very expensive salts. Their unique tastes and textures are best left as a final garnish on the dish. Contrast this to MSG, which I believe would be added to food much as salt would in the preparation and cooking stages, not as a final garnish. I think the real issue is the addition of concentrated product in exceedingly large quantities. Now where's that MSG topic?

Jeanki, Thanks for pointing that out. When I first heard of Ssam Bar I wondered, "he's making a whole restaurant out of wrapping things in lettuce leaves?" Then I was equally bewildered when I saw some pictures of the food in the form of burritos. Then again, I like bulgogi sandwiches with kimchi, though it's been years since I've had one. Agreed.