dougal

Exactly! See http://sousvide.wikia.com/wiki/Give_Sous-vide_a_try_without_buying_expensive_equipment For water temp. 55°C I had to set the oven temp. to about 70°C, for water temp. 77°C you need oven temp. above 100°C; as in traditional braises, water evaporation will prevent the water bath to go significantly above 80°C even with higher oven temperatures. My suspicion is that these numbers might vary somewhat, depending on your oven and pan. A fan oven is going to give more evaporation, but also greater heat transfer. Then there's the whole black versus white/shiny pan thing, which will depend on the amount of radiant heating, particularly from exposed electric elements or gas flames ... Anyway, any sort of thermometer (meat roasting or jam-making for example) that is not going to be damaged by being in a low-set oven, is going to give you a pretty fair idea of what temperature your water bath is actually achieving. Just don't rely on its accuracy for food safety - keep away from the edge ...

Interesting approach, that I've not heard before. I go by salt weight to volume of water. Another rule of thumb I've read but not tried is that an 80% brine is just strong enough to float a fresh raw spud. I believe that the whole thinking behind Erlandson's speaking of "an xx% {of saturated} brine" is the assumption that working with a stock of saturated brine (and diluting it as appropriate) is an easy low-tech approach, which can be scaled as appropriate to production quantity, rather than getting fussed about grams per litre and precise quantities of brine - though careful weighing is the way I tend to go myself! Potatoes should be more consistent hydrometers than eggs, whose density varies with freshness! For bacon, I've actually tended to go with the method qrn describes. Weigh everything carefully. Close it in a bag with the pork (and a tablespoon or so of water to help spread stuff around). Put the bag in the fridge and leave it there for about a week -- while turning the bag over (and squishing its contents) whenever the fridge is opened and a hand is free. Eventually rinse off whatever cure residues and dry for a day or two (ideally hanging) in the fridge. Proper bacon isn't cooked until the time of eating! I'd just comment that 3.5% of the starting meat weight is quite salty ...

I see you've adopted Erlandson's terminology! Maybe worth explaining that it means 80% of saturated with salt. Make a saturated brine (heat, dissolve what you can, cool, then filter) and take 4 measures of that to one of fresh water to make up the working brine. (Plus whatever flavourings, sweeteners, spices, etc.)

There's another thing - air movement. Moving air dries stuff faster than still air at the same humidity and temperature. The still air inside the fridge (well, its still compared to the world outside) doesn't dry stuff as fast as you might think from its humidity. And yes the lower temperature is reducing the evaporation rate as well. And in fairly still air, as in most domestic fridges, you don't need to cover things tightly to effect a significant increase in their local humidity. The downside of still air, however, is that the local humidity in the crevices in 'shredded' surfaces can get much higher than the chamber's measured humidity. And nasty moulds do prefer those higher humidities ...

In Greece, they wouldn't dream of calling this stuff Turkish Delight ... (They don't call it that in Turkey either.) One of the Anglicised spellings of the Greek name is Loukoumia (hence another useful word to Google for recipes and info). The (Greek-made) box on my shelf contains "maize starch" and "modified maize starch" (no gelatin, etc). It is flavoured with "extract of Pistachio tree from the island of Chios". (Resin, I believe.) And its rather good.

80 Centigrade? 176 Fahrenheit? 10 hours sv? Overcooked. Hence dry meat. I'd guess that you got the 80c for 10 hours from a conventional (oven) recipe. There's a very important translation that has to be done for sv, because the heat flow is so different.

I doubt that a bigger motor behind the plastic-bodied grinder will make a discernible difference to the grinding. And it won't make any difference at all to the stuffing. However, a piston stuffer would make a massive difference. Any screw-feed stuffer is going to mix up (probably mess up) your forcemeat. When using the KA grinder, some suggestions: -- cut the meat into strips rather than cubes, then lower in one end of a strip until its caught, strips do feed much better -- for the best 'definition' grind the fat separately, not attached to and ground with lean meat -- and don't expect the little grinder to deal with anything difficult, removing tough stuff at the time of cutting the meat will stop that chewy stuff clogging your grinder plate (which then turns the output to mush).

I discovered something somewhat similar available (retail) in Europe. The original seems to be a thing called Le Clic Huitre. Its French and available in the UK via the Loch Fyne chain. http://shop.lochfyne.com/Products/Oyster_Knife However, there is a very very very close lookalike sold in the UK under the budget "Kitchen Craft" label. I paid £6 (roughly $10 US) for mine. Throw away the joke knife. (Even if it looks identical to the one in the French-sourced kit.) The rubber block on the other hand is a very definite keeper. The hooked front edge keeps it secure on the worktop edge. And the hollow holds oysters secure and (importantly) level. Light pressure from a towel-shrouded hand atop the oyster ensures that it represents a stationary target. Used with a finger-guard equipped knife, it would be very hard for a novice to damage themselves. A highly affordable triumph of technology for the occasional or neophyte shucker. Highly recommended. I found mine in a real shop, but for illustration, here's one online source http://www.heritage-gifts.co.uk/kitchen-craft-oyster-opening-set-blister-p-24140.html

I don't think that's quite the full story. Start by thinking of translating 'chorizo' simply as 'sausage'. Its a pretty loose descriptive term. Certainly there exist fresh (soft, 'cooking') chorizos and hard (dried) chorizos. But you can cook with the dried type. And when HFW and his followers take a recipe for fresh chorizo (no nitrate, no nitrite, and no starter culture either) and advocate drying it... well lets just say that the threadstarter isn't the only one confused by the whole chorizo thing. Or at risk of food poisoning.

Ummm. They do actually suggest heating the pot slowly on the stovetop. That's what's on the leaflets in the box with the pans, and what Le Creuset post on their website. http://www.lecreuset.co.uk/nl-be/News/Cooking-Lessons/Lesson-1/

Good observation! Black should certainly heat up faster - because it better absorbs whatever radiant heat is on offer. As almost all cooking is done under non-equilibrium conditions, black will be 'faster'. But long slow simmering is as close as you'll get to an equilibrium situation outside sous vide. The rate of bubbling you see while simmering a braise is a function of the rate of heat input to the stew. Its actually a measure of that input energy. The total heat energy input to the pan is from the combination of radiation, conduction and convection. As you have noted, to get the same energy input to the stew, you need to set the oven at a lower heat output (a lower temperature setting), because the energy transfer to the black pan is more efficient, which is because the black one is capturing more of the radiant component of the energy. A big question question though is how much of the heat is radiant. And that will differ for different oven designs. You normally encounter the "black is better" phenomenon with bakeware. A black bread tin will indeed give a better-risen loaf than a shiny new one! (Even when all other factors are identical.) However, I suspect that Rose Levy Berenbaum, (who teaches the insulation of cake tin sides to get a flatter top), might therefore advise that shiny was better than black for the specific task of cake-baking ... The difference between black and white casseroles is rather like the difference between using natural and fan-forced convection in the oven. The fan increases the rate at which energy is transferred by convection at the same temperature - hence the cooking advice to turn the temperature a little lower when using the fan, and thereby maintain the same traditional rate of energy transfer to the food.

I too have both enamelled and (rather older) plain. (And there are different 'plain' finishes - I even have one with some rust colouration on the base.) The 'natural' finishes are unquestionably rougher and more abrasive. I believe that a number of small scratches on a (then new) induction hob (US English: cooktop) were due to Someone I Used to Know sliding the "too heavy" (and plain-based) old Le Creuset pans across the surface. Nowadays, most (probably all) Le Creuset's current cast iron products have smooth enamelled bases. However, the official advice from Le Creuset themselves remains that NEITHER should be DRAGGED across 'glass' surfaces. http://www.lecreuset.co.uk/nl-be/News/Cooking-Lessons/Lesson-1/ (Last paragraph, Step 2.) See also lessons 2 through 6 - the same message is repeated for ALL the listed types of their cast iron cookware. With the smooth enamelled base, I think problems are only really likely if the glass surface is dirty. With the rougher-to-the-touch uncoloured bases, my experience is that dragging such pans CAN INDEED cause some cosmetic damage (though one might not immediately notice it on an already well used surface). My suspicion is that the rougher sand-cast finish might have been marginally more efficient at transferring heat from a naked gas flame to the pot - hence the previous deliberate decision not to give the base a smooth finish. However, with an increasing proportion of sales being for use on glass hobs, a design decision was made to change to more glass-friendly smooth enamelled bases. But that's purely my own rationalisation of the reasons behind their evident change of policy.

Its the older ones with the UN-coloured contact patch that you need to be careful with on glass tops. The coloured enamel probably got put there BECAUSE of glass-topped cookers ....

Dog biscuits. Really!

There are no exact "equals". The strains of wheat used are different, and that's just to start with. For an approximation of a T110, you might look for an ordinary ("all purpose") wholegrain/wholemeal flour. Probably about 10/11% protein. Ideally with the bran finely milled rather than in flakes big enough to remove with a kitchen sieve.

Please see most of the preceding 114 pages ... The short answer is with a 'smart' controller (generally called a "PID") rather than a plain thermostat, and ideally in conjunction with some form of forced circulation to help even out the temperature in different parts of the bath. For an example of a DIY system see Patrik Svensson's post just 7 hours ago, a few posts upthread. And check out his links for info on the parts. ----->>>>> Great first post Patrik !!! (And thanks for the recommendation for that specific pump - I intend to give one a try.) As an alternative to a DIY project, you can buy a ready-made controller (see this thread for more details on all these options) or a complete 'water oven", or if you want to splash the cash buy a pro "immersion circulator", or, if you are brave enough, repurpose some cheap used lab equipment ... Most of these solution centre on a PID. These use an electronic temperature probe (plural different technologies available) and importantly NEED tuning to your specific water bath and heater (most nowadays have an 'autotune' feature). Patrik shows an excellent low cost, (but should be high performance), approach.

Probably deserves its own thread. However, marinade under (partial) vacuum ("sous vide" ). I too reckon that the RE-pressurisation must drive the marinade in. But originally, it was done in bags (minimising the marinade quantity) but basically a a single depressurisation. I tend to vacuum, (sometimes wait a while), release, rearrange in the container, vacuum, leave to marinade, release and cook. No idea if that is optimal. Always open to suggestions for improvement! Beware that the V2860 isn't rated for continuous duty. (That's what commercial machines are about.) So give the motor a chance to cool off between exertions. Emptying a (much bigger than a bag) cannister on high speed pumping is about as hard as its life gets. Be kind to it! Don't vacuum/release/vacuum too often, too swiftly ...

Absolutely standard to quote prices without VAT when you expect to be selling to business people who are VAT registered -- for them its not a cost as its reclaimable. Free delivery is of purchases over £70+VAT by phone (or £30+VAT online). Nisbets will bombard you with catalogues after they have your address. (Good or bad, you decide.) I thought the UK V2860's all had the rectangular one! Its ideal for marinating, but I'm sure you'll find plenty stuff to do with your jar. That's almost exactly the same price as I paid a few months ago. I think its less than half what they were originally. I'm very happy indeed with my purchase.

Well, I could say "I told you so". There is a common misconception that "Foodsaver" specifies a specific product. Its a RANGE of products. Or rather multiple ranges of products. This one was the top end of the obsolescent 2000 series. It makes a decently wide seal, and has 'damp sealing', seal now, pump while pressing ("pulse"), and variable pump speed. All worthwhile features for sv. A full-auto machine is practically useless for sv. This has great manual control. At clearance prices its a bargain. Used with just a little care, its great as a domestic machine. Only slight snag is the size of the 'neck' on the bag, a couple of inches, due to the geometry of the sealer. To make sealing liquid stuff easier, use the slow pump speed, and have the machine raised slightly above your work surface, so the bag is "more upright". A stack of magazines makes an adjustable shelf, while you experiment. BTW a good UK source for bags is Nisbets. http://www.nisbets.co.uk/products/ProductList.asp?TopGroupCode=C25&ParentGroupCode=S1358&GroupCode=10806 but remember (trade supplier) prices don't show the VAT. The V2860 package in the UK includes a rectangular vacuum box, which is great for vacuum marinading. (Save bags!)

Going for "self-cleaning" (by which I take it you mean incineration!) takes you into specialist brands. These tend to be expensive and not to use 'generic' spare parts. Generic spare parts are the secret to economic longevity! Everything is going to need the odd part from time to time. The questions are availability and price. Miele are THE brand that makes a point of long-term appliance durability. (But I've never used their ovens.) However that reputation seems to come at the price of both initial and parts prices. But they do seem to pride themselves on being able to come up with parts for antiquated machines. Some manufacturers operate several brands. Neff, Siemens and AEG are from the same company. Seems Siemens are up market, AEG relatively downmarket. Similarly De Dietrich is the upmarket range from the folks that also make Brandt. All buying decisions are compromises! Good luck! I had an externally basic-looking, but functionally versatile De Dietrich. I suspect it would be much more expensive on parts than the 20+ years old (non-self-cleaning, but with 'catalytic' liners) Neff that I use today. The DD was great. /sigh Loved having the spit. And it did work well, self-cleaning "pyrolytic" incineration and all. Seemed to have good insulation too. Some quirks though - like being blasted by the fan when the door was opened! Fan was just one of its possibilities. It also had a (non-fan) 'baking' setting giving 2/3 bottom heat and 1/3 top heat. Nice and versatile. /sigh Fortunately the DD never gave a hint of trouble. You might find that a Brandt (on a DD chassis, but with simpler/cheaper controls, and without the high style cosmetic trims) might offer what you are looking for. However, the DD version will likely have a more precise electronic 'thermostat' ... For the benefit of North American readers, European ovens run on 230 volt, 50 cycles electricity and are almost all designed to fit into standard 60cm wide kitchen cabinet modules.

You'll get a much faster (thus safer) quench, if you chill it in cold water. Even better is the advice to use ice with just a very little water. And also, by using water, you avoid warming up all the other stuff in the fridge.

The thing most likely to suffer is that plastic knob, or any plastic handles. Wood tends to look less good after dishwashing, should you have any knobs or handles in that material. But, if the piece is secured, it shouldn't hurt the cast iron. Regarding routine cleaning the inside of the stuff - keep the shine ! Don't use ANYTHING abrasive to clean it - you'll just make it more 'sticky' for next time. I like Le Creuset's own brand cleaner. Its called "Pots and Pans" in the UK and "Cookware Cleaner" in the US. It might seem expensive, but you use so little that it is hardly an extravagance. There is a VERY mild scouring powder (talc?), as well as detergent and polish in the formulation. It helps to maintain the shine, but it won't undo the damage caused by brillo pads or even scotchbrite. I use the stuff on a tri-ply stainless pan too. Works equally well. Given the cost of this cookware in the US (its almost but not quite as expensive here), I think it's very important to look after it carefully. And that includes washing it carefully.

Note that the press is not included - it is a €5 extra http://www.cuisine-french.com/cgi/mdc/l/en/boutique/produits/mas-presse_terrine.html and its only available for the small size (500 grams, just over 1 lb). That video is also linked from the french page that I linked above. Neat video, really "sells the sizzle" doesn't it? But I must admit that though I'd seen it a few times before, I hadn't previously noticed that the press was being left in the terrine for cooking, and turning out, and then being used as a cutting stand ...

The LeCreuset does look wonderful for presentation. But it lengthens cooking I'd say. Longer to heat and cool. And of course I worry about scratching the interior enamel. Great feature (a terrine essential, I'd say) is the little hole in the lid for my thermometer probe. I use a thing with a wire between the probe and the (outside the oven) display. Cook to a chosen core temperature, with the bath only slightly hotter. I've just bought a small silicone terrine from Mastrad. Seems ideal for things that are going to be turned out. French description http://www.cuisinstore.com/terrine-silicone UK source http://www.comet-accessories.co.uk/accessories_online/fiche.cfm?cat_id=129&produit_id=146968&affil=7554D6D530488ACB286435BB3C1B8937&xtor=AL-1 Silicone is super-easy to store (crushable), and is MUCH cheaper than cast iron. But you might not always want to present your efforts IN the terrine ...

Try searching the web for the "Grant Loaf" - Doris Grant's legacy. No need the machine. And its EASY and pretty quick. Wholemeal takes more lifting (because of the weight of wet bran). So you need good yeast. An instant-mix yeast is the easiest way of ensuring "good yeast". But carefully 'started' compressed/"fresh"/block/wet yeast should be fine for a Grant loaf. (Take the liquid for starting the yeast from the liquid detailed in the recipe.) An old original/authentic Grant loaf would use compressed yeast. It dates from the time when that was "Yeast". Using milk makes for a softer crumb. But the milk is better to have some unhelpful proteins dealt with. So either use milk that has been heated almost to boiling point and cooled, or dried milk powder + water.