David Ross

I’ve never attempted making Sashimi or Crudo at home-until tonight. I think it was because of a lack, or fear, that I wouldn’t be able to find the high-quality fresh seafood that I would need to duplicate the dishes I’ve had in restaurants. But temptation got the best of me and after I found some beautiful Dayboat Scallops at the local seafood store, I decided to try my first attempt at “Sashimi-Style Scallops” at home. The Asian Grocery was already on my list of stops, so I gathered a few items that I thought might accent the Scallops. I sliced the Scallop into four thin slices, then dressed with black peppercorn chili oil, toasted sesame oil and soy sauce. I only added a few drops of each oil so as not to overpower the Scallop yet give it some flavor and a bit of heat. The little greens are something I found called “rice paddy herb.” I have no idea if they are the leaves of a rice plant, but they have a slightly tangy, peppery flavor like arugula. The Salad is a mixture of julienned carrot and pickled radish, dressed with soy sauce, garlic, ginger, vinegar and sugar. Again being sensitive so as not to over-season the salad so it would take away from the taste of the Scallop. What could be easier? Fresh seafood, a few seasonings, a dash of oil, some simple greens or a garnish. And it was delicious. What is your favorite style of Sashimi or Crudo that you make at home?

Sunday, May 8- Mother’s Day Sparkling Brunch, Guy Savoy, Caesar’s Palace- New to the Uncork’d line-up this year was a sparkling champagne brunch at hosted by Hugh Garvey, Bon Appetit Features Editor and Chef Guy Savoy. (Last year the only Sunday event was a brunch with Robuchon at L’Atelier, which wasn’t staged this year). Another brunch was held by the “Two Hot Tamales” at Border Grill at Mandalay Bay. I was hoping for an exceptional experience at the Savoy Brunch—how often does one even have the opportunity to have brunch with a Michelin-Star French Chef? Unfortunately, lapses in service and a limited menu didn’t deliver on those expectations. I left Guy Savoy wondering why a restaurant of this caliber can’t deliver on basic customer service courtesies and a sense that this Sunday “Sparkling” Brunch didn’t sparkle. (See my report of dinner at Guy Savoy during last year’s “Vegas Uncork’d” here for a similar review of the lapses at this esteemed restaurant). I was curious about what type of brunch menu Chef Savoy would offer. I certainly didn’t expect a groaning board of hundreds of items ala the Las Vegas Buffet, and I knew Chef would serve some of his signature dishes, (Peas All Around and Artichoke Soup with Black Truffles and Brioche). But would we have a Michelin-Star dish of eggs? Would there be both breakfast and luncheon dishes? Would the magical Savoy dessert cart make an entrance into the dining room? My curiousness soon was tamed with the reality that there would be a limited selection of dishes, so limited that in fact they ran out of one of the main courses, (only to half-heartedly rescue more scraps from the kitchen when the diners complained). The service was far below the typically high standards of the Savoy team. Tables for 4 were crammed with 2 additional seats while a large table seating 12 sat empty at one end of the room. There was barely room to reach for bread without hitting the woman to my right. And then there was the service. After we sat down, our table of five waited, and waited, for a server to introduce themselves and set the stage for brunch. Not knowing if the food would be plated and served tableside or if we were supposed to go through the typical brunch routine of walking down the “line,” we flagged someone down who then instructed us to help ourselves. Had this been the buffet at Palace Station we would have known the drill, yet at Guy Savoy we expected the decorum and service to be more formal, not happenstance. Billed as a “Sparkling” brunch, the servers were the stingiest in Las Vegas-limiting us to a mere one glass of champagne before we sat down at the table. (And the bubbly didn’t flow once we were seated). I had to ask for a second glass of white wine twice, only to have the wine poured when a wine steward passed by, (seemingly unaware that I had asked someone, anyone, for another glass of wine). In a Michelin-recognized restaurant, utensils are quietly replaced at the end of each course, yet on this Sunday, forks, spoons and knives weren’t replaced unless one asked or if our server happened to be at the table when our plate was cleared. (After the clean fork I requested didn’t arrive, I ate the Veal dish with a spoon. In a five-star restaurant!). The craftsmanship of the dishes at Savoy are always perfect, the flavors pure yet understated. Savoy is a steady ship as it were. You won’t taste the influence of Asian flavors like you will when dining at Robuchon. And there isn’t the great pleasure of an exceptional dish followed by an acrid mess that you may encounter with Gagnaire. Menu- Cold Appetizers Tout Petis Pois “Peas All Around” (a signature dish) Fromage de Tete Head Cheese (A rare menu offering anywhere, and one of the best dishes of the Brunch) Terrine Campagnarde Country Style Pate Jambon Iberico Spanish Iberico de Bellota Ham (not nearly as ethereal as the Iberico pork served in three different treatments at Andres e’) Huitres en Nage Glacee Oysters in Ice Gelee (While not labeled, the little gems were either Belon oysters from France or the tiniest Kumamotos from the Pacific) Hot Appetizers Brouillade de Champignons Sauvages Wild Mushroom Brouillade Soupe d’Artichaut a la Truffe Noire, Brioche Feuillette aux Champignons et Truffes Artichoke and Black Truffle Soup, Toasted Mushroom Brioche, Black Truffle Butter (A Savoy signature and rightly so, no other “soup and sandwich” combination will ever compare to this rich, buttery, truffled creation) Selection de Fromages Affines Selection of Cheeses- (I suppose three cheeses, including a very good, creamy bleu, amounts to a “selection,” but we were expecting a few more choices) Entrée Poitrine de Veau Braisee, Legumes de Saison Braised Loin of Veal, Seasonal Vegetables (The biggest disappointment of the meal-the “veal eaten with a spoon.” On our first trip through the service line, we spotted a regal, golden loin of veal sitting on the carving board, a Chef slicing thick slices of the meat for each customer. Alas, we were on our first trip to the Cold Appetizer display and would return for the veal. And when we did return, “sorry, we’re out of veal.” What? A restaurant of this level, with a mere 50 customers for brunch and you didn’t plan for the veal? As the number of complaints started to go toward the kitchen, a Chef appeared with more veal. Yet it wasn’t the kingly roast and it wouldn’t be carved per order. It was scraps off the trimming of the loin, perfectly good meat indeed, it just wasn’t what should have been offered. Served in a copper sauté pan with the delicious braising liquor, it was tender enough to “eat with a spoon.”) Volaille de Bresse, Confite et Laquee, Chou Juste Poele, Jus aux Vinaigres Farm-Raised Chicken Laquee, Cabbage Ragout, Vinegar Jus (The potato puree served as an accompaniment to the Entrees was in fact, better than Robuchon’s famed potato dish. Savoy is less generous with the butter, resulting in a puree with a more true potato flavor). Salmon Toutes Saveurs Lightly Cooked Salmon with Herbs Desserts (While intricately prepared and delicious, the dessert offerings were tiny and the selection somewhat sparse given the occasion) Paris-Brest Clafoutis aux Fraises Strawberry Clafoutis (Strangely missing yet replaced with little jars of custard and caramel) Fondant au Chocolat Chocolate Fondant Macaroons (Another absent dessert offering, apparently replaced with a second chocolate item) One expects an exceptional, memorable experience when dining with Guy Savoy, especially when Chef is in the restaurant. After this private Sunday brunch in 2011 and the private Master Series Dinner in 2010, I’ve been less than impressed, underwhelmed is a more appropriate term. These events cater to serious diners-people who know cuisine and service. It can only be an indication of the lapses, however minor, that must go on every evening. The staff at Savoy needs to be more attentive to the details lest they be passed over in the challenging market of Las Vegas.

Last week I was in Las Vegas attending "Vegas Uncork'd," and had the opportunity to stop by Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Grill at the Cosmopolitan Hotel. We were invited to come for a taste of the offerings at Blue Ribbon in celebration of the re-opening of the restaurant. Last month Blue Ribbon had to shut down due to heavy water damage caused by a faulty fire suppresant system. Known in some circles in New York for the best fried chicken, I had to give the Las Vegas chicken a taste. Yes, it is very, very good--crispy on the outside, tender and moist meat and a scent and flavor of Japan from the seasonings. It got me thinking about looking at chicken wings in a new way-sans the sticky, sweet, tongue-numbing sauces that "Buffalo" style wings are known for. When I got home, I searched online for the Blue Ribbon recipe and only found a few general references. But I think I've come fairly close to replicating the orignal at home, a very "un-Buffalo" style wing if you will. I started by brining the wings overnight in a mixture based on the Thomas Keller recipe-salt, honey, bay leaf, lemon, thyme and water. (Beware of Keller's brine mix, it calls for a LOT of salt). The dredging mix for the wings calls for a combination of flour and Matzo meal. I combined equal parts of flour and Matzo, then added a few tablespoons of cornstarch for extra crunch. The seasonings call for paprika, cayenne, salt and Japanese togarashi pepper seasoning, (a combination of red pepper, roasted orange peel, yellow sesame seed, black sesame seed, Japanese pepper, sea weed and ginger). The togarashi is Blue Ribbon's "secret" seasoning. I also added some black pepper and smoked paprika for additional flavor. The wings were deep-fried in peanut oil at 375 for about 5 minutes, then served with a soy sauce, ginger, garlic and green onion dipping sauce. What are you favorite recipes for Chicken Wings "Beyond Buffalo?"

Saturday, May 7- “The Reign of Spain Part II”-The Avant-Garde e’ Jose Andres It was quite unplanned that I would find myself in the midst of a culinary transformation while I was in Las Vegas for Uncork'd. I knew I would have memorable meals and I would go home with new ideas, but I never expected what would happen on Saturday night. Through a twist of fate, I thank the French for leading me into the land of Oz. The Grand Gala Banquet, “Tocques off to Bocuse,” had been billed as the Grande Dame Saturday night event at Vegas Uncork’d 2011. Planned as a tribute to the French Master and attended by the honorable Monsieur Jerome Bocuse, every one of the great Chefs of Las Vegas, (and more), were preparing to cook in the style of Lyon. Gagnaire and Savoy would be there, and Ducasse and Robuchon were going to pair together to craft one of the opening courses. Unfortunately, the planners in charge of staging the events at Vegas Uncork’d are unaware of the current economic strife that has befallen the world for well over five years and they saw it proper to list the cost of one ticket at $395.00. Even serious food enthusiasts have a hard time swallowing the price of a $400 banquet-style dinner and the event was abruptly, (and without explanation), cancelled one week before the start of Uncork’d. I wasn’t interested in attending the outdoor barbecue hosted by Charlie Palmer, Rick Moonen and Ducasse at Mandalay Bay, (the “second string” event that was put in when the Bocuse dinner was cancelled), so I chose to go it alone on Saturday night. David, our waiter at Twist on Wednesday night, asked if I had ever dined with Jose Andres at his recently opened Jaleo restaurant in Las Vegas. No, this was my first trip to Las Vegas since The Cosmopolitan Hotel had opened so I hadn’t tried the dining rooms yet. “Have you been to minibar in Washington,, D.C.,” he inquired. "No, but I am familiar with Andres and his “molecular gastronomy” I told David. “No Mr. Ross, Chef Andres prefers to term his style “Avant-Garde,”-a marriage of tradition with the technical innovations afforded the “modern” kitchen." After further discussion about my adventures at Vegas Uncork’d, (and my sad tale of the cancellation of the Bocuse event on Saturday evening), David encouraged me to try the experience at e’ by Andres-a private room seating just 8 diners and located in the larger Jaleo restaurant. “It will be hard to get in,” David said. “They only have seatings on Saturdays at 5:30 and 8:00 and they are probably booked.” “My fiancee works there and I know the Manager, I will call them and see if they can accommodate you on Saturday night Mr. Ross. What seating would you prefer.” And so it goes, a charge of Gagnaire booked me the last remaining seat at e’ on Saturday night. A “Traditionalist” at heart, I have never completely understood why one would want to taste food that has been altered with chemicals and technology. Really, my only adventure into any creative expression outside of traditional circles was some 35 years ago when I did do a term paper on Jackson Pollock while studying art history at Oregon State. I was young and felt at the time that a piece on the crazed, paint-throwing style of the Abstract Expressionist savant would score a higher grade point than a boring treatise on Rembrandt. But in my heart, I was a traditionalist, I truly thought of Pollock as having been influenced by heavy drink and drug which in turn resulted in his penchant for throwing paint on canvas and calling it an inspiration, “art” as it were. (Today, an original work by Pollock is valued in the millions). But ignorance is no excuse for reality, and the chains that bind our tastes can only be released when we experience and savor the art created by those whom we mis-interpret. One must go through a somewhat lengthy process to be “accepted” at Andres e’ table. You cannot simply call and make a reservation, you can’t book a table online. No, you must first complete an application, listing your personal information and completing a checklist, (notating if you have any food allergies for example), and commit to the rules of the house, (including the fact that no “moving” pictures, cell phones or other electronic devices are allowed). The application is then sent back to the restaurant, and after you have passed the screening process, (and committed $250 per person to your credit card), you receive notification that your reservation has been completed. e’ is obviously the provenance of those who are committed and aware of the experience that awaits. You enter e’ through a discreet, hidden door located off the end of the bar at Jaleo restaurant, (and just off from what must be the largest indoor “paella pit,” in America). You are transported into a different world--a small room with a mystical atmosphere that is part library, part laboratory, part stage—walls lined with wooden library card boxes, a ladder to nowhere, porcelain dolls, string puppets and sequined shoes, (seemingly out of a “Halloween” movie), garnish the walls. In the center of the room is a small, horsehoe-shaped bar with 8 comfortable stools that border the preparation table. Literally inches away are the artist’s tools-tweezers, tiny eye droppers, glass dishes holding unrecognizable ingredients. At the rear, heavy red curtains open to reveal a small laboratory of glass shelves lined with serving dishes, hand-painted lacquer boxes and clay “hands” apparently taken off mannequins. To the right, the “stage” door through which 3 Chefs enter, followed by 2 servers who will choreograph the service. (The head Chef, a young man from Puerto Rico, is one of only 3 Chefs at Jaleo Las Vegas who has been selected and trained by Andres to perform the e’ experience). I had packed my requisite little black book and small Canon digital camera having every intent of taking photos, (still photos are discreetly allowed), and recording every detail of the meal so that I could report back to my friends at eGullet. I wanted to present the intricate details of the preparations-the minutiae at the hands of the technicians-so that I could prove, (in my mind), that a Traditionalist could be converted. As I settled in with a glass of Spanish Cava, I sensed that in order to experience that truth of the evening I would have to place the book and camera to the side. Our group of 8 diners included a couple from San Diego, two gentlemen college friends, (one from New York, one from San Francisco), myself, and a family of three from Japan. As we settled in with glasses of Spanish Cava and waited for the show to begin, I learned that two of the diners have ordered Nathan’s “Modernist Cuisine,” and are avid followers of the movement. Menu- Cocktail “Gin and Tonic” Spanish “Clavel” (“Carnation” of Iberico Ham) Beet Jewelry Caramelized Pork Rinds Apple “Brazo de Gitano” Crispy Chicen Skin in Escabeche Jose “Taco” & Artichoke with Caviar Bocata de “Calamares” Cocktail “Sandria” Ajo Blanco Maine Lobster with Citrus and Jasmine Chickpea Stew with Iberico Ham “Catch” of the Day Halibut Rosemary Wild Mushrooms en Papilotte Secreto of Iberico Pork Orange Pith Puree “La Serena” Frozen Apricot Coulant Apples and Red Wine “Fredy Giradet” 25 Second Bizcocho Fizzy “Paper” Chocolate Tiny little “apples” were created in front of us, applauding the work of the great Swiss Chef Fredy Giradet while crafting the fruit using a technique I had never witnessed. Globes of “caviar” jelly and emulsions from citrus pith (the lowly part of the peel that is usually relegated to the trash bin), appeared without effort. The Iberico pig blessed us with paper-thin, crispy ham, succulent, smoked belly and lush, roasted shoulder. Every dish was a revelation, the flavors clean, fresh and pure. The "cocktails," wines and beer served with each course were perfect partners to the flavors in the dishes. Chef Andres was in Las Vegas that night, yet he was busy attending to other work and not in the house of e'. (He would receive the James Beard Award a mere two days later in New York). However, his cast of artists clearly believe his mission and they performed without a flaw. Through circumstances I hadn’t imagined when I arrived in Las Vegas, I found a seat at the table at e’. My tastes had been enlightened through the technology of modern science in the creative hands of the Avant-Garde. Culinary ephiphanies are life-changing moments--an awakening really. And I know now that while my “Traditions” live on, the artistry and technology of “Modern” cuisine will carry me forward.

I put the eggs in a blender and pulse for about 2 minutes to add tons of air bubbles into the eggs. Then add lemon juice and a dash of cream, salt and pepper. Pan on medium, knob of butter, in go eggs and immediately stir in a circular motion with a rubber spatula. Just as the eggs come together, yet are still creamy and look underdone, off the heat and onto the plate. Chives.

Saturday, May 7- “The Reign of Spain Part I”-The Traditionalist “Que Viva Espana!” (That I live Spain)- On Saturday afternoon, Vegas Uncork’d holds private luncheons as part of the “Master Luncheon Series.” Similar to the Thursday night “Master Dinner Series,” these private events give attendees the chance to meet the Chefs and savor their cuisine. The Luncheon series are actually more exclusive than the Dinner series in because these Chefs and their restaurants are not regularly open for lunch. In the case of my choice, “Picasso” restaurant at Bellagio-they have only served lunch on two other occasions over the course of the thirteen years Picasso has been opened, (beginning when the Bellagio opened on October 15, 1998). Picasso restaurant is named for the famous Cubist artist born in Spain who lived most of his artistic life in France. It is only fitting that Chef Julian Serrano resides in the house of Picasso--a Spaniard whose mastery of French cuisine with Spanish influences has established Picasso as one of the top restaurants in America. The winner of multiple James Beard Awards, Chef Serrano was one of the first to establish Las Vegas as a top dining destination. Our hosts for lunch were Robert Smith, Master Sommelier at Picasso, (and a 2011 James Beard Award nominee) and Steve Olson, aka the Wine Geek and Bon Appetit Wine and Spirits Contributing Editor. In keeping with the spirit of Spanish hospitality, lunch opened with glasses of refreshing, fruity Sangria that reportedly took overnight to make including the preparation of a deeply flavored syrup that formed the base of the Sangria. Master Smith encouraged the guests to enjoy the three wines and Sangria throughout lunch—there would be no formal order of wine pairings--each was selected to go with all of the dishes and to be relished throughout the feast. Morgadio Albarino, Rias-Baixas, 2009 Cune Rosado, Rioja, 2009 Alconte, Ribera del Duero, 2007 Tapas- Stuffed Piquillo Peppers-Goat Cheese and Mushrooms Tuna Raspberry Skewer-Ahi Tuna, “Molecular Raspberry,” Wasabi, Sesame Seed (The only dish that didn’t come together. The tuna was under-seasoned and was overwhelmed by the small block of intense raspberry flavor. But as you see, the style of “molecular” is a part of Serrano’s repertoire). Lobster Gazpacho-“Traditional” Chilled Spanish Soup, Lobster “Morsels” (Another nod to the Spanish “Avant-Garde” from the Traditionalist—the “Morsel” was a small frozen ball of Gazpacho enrobing a core of Lobster soup that burst forth on the palate). Scallops a la “Plancha”-Romseco Sauce Paella- Paella a la “Valenciana”-Chicken, Rabbit, Chorizo, Vegetables, Saffron Rice (Chef Serrano uses long-grain Spanish rice in his Paella because he prefers the texture and starch content of the long-grains rather than a short-grain, risotto type of rice. The smoked paprika Chorizo is made in house. Chef included what he called the “special parts” of the rabbit, including the liver, heart and kidneys). Dessert- Flan Catalan Toro Albala, “Don PX” Montilla-Morales, 2007 Sherry Serrano’s Spanish flavors are spright, fresh, clean and bold. The cooking was unpretentious, the wine and conversation spirited. One could say that Serrano is a Spanish traditionalist-a Chef who became recognized for a style of pure cuisine that had not been overly popular in America at the time. He built the foundation for a taste of Spain, paving the road for many of today's young Chefs who are leading the Spanish Avant-Garde movement—a marriage of tradition with the vivid, technical innovation of the future. On his last day, April 8, 1973, Picasso was dining with his wife and friends in Mougins, France. It is said that he spoke these final words before passing-“Drink to me, drink to my health, you know I can’t drink anymore.” A life well lived indeed and a legacy that lives on in Las Vegas.

Just in from Twitter- James Beard Awards tonight in NYC. Two big awards- Outstanding Restaurant, Eleven Madison Park, New York Outstanding Chef, Jose Andres, minibar, Washington, D.C. Read the full list here.

Thanks Nancy. I'm in Las Vegas as we speak, on my way home after a weeklong food event in Las Vegas. I need to look at my travel budget for the Heartland Gathering and see where I am with the airfare and hotel. Thanks.

Saturday, May 7- Saturday afternoon would prove to be a revelation to me in terms of my preferences, (and ignorance of), the traditions and future of cuisine. I call it the "Reign of Spain"-a combination of two defining events-one associated with Vegas Uncork'd and hosted by a Spanish Traditionalist who resides in the house of Picasso. The other-3 Chefs, 2 Servers, 8 patrons in a private library classroom experiencing the cuisine of a Member of the Spanish "Avant-Garde" movement, (and the relation to Modernist Cuisine).

Saturday, May 7- Saturday morning began with the "Culinary Conversations," series hosted by Bon Appetit Restaurant and Drinks Editor Andrew Knowlton. The panel was composed of the inimitable trio of Las Vegas's most celebrated culinary journalists, John Curtas, Max Jacobson and Al Mancini, authors of "Eating Las Vegas 2011, The 50 Essential Restaurants." The book has been recognized for its uniqure style, format, humor and sometimes rancourous debate about the restaurants that made the final cut. It was the first book to be written by three informed food journalists, running miles ahead of the local newspaper and tourist guidebooks as a reference for dining in Las Vegas. As opposed to other “guidebooks” which rely in large part on collecting press releases from hotels and restaurants, “Eating Las Vegas” has set a new standard because of its unique style, format, humor and rancourous debate among the authors over who made the final cut. The power of three ruled in the writing of the book—two of the authors could out vote the third. However, a sidebar to the rule was that each had absolute veto power. As such, it was rumored that the three musketeers nearly came to blows when two voiced support of a restaurant only to have the third express his utter frustration, horror and distaste for including a wretched restaurant that can’t make a meatball in the book. (The “veto” section of the book is one of the more intriguing chapters). While the most popular part of the book may be who made the Top 10 list, in my view this isn’t a tome to the “best” restaurants in Las Vegas. As noted in the title, it’s a guide to the “Essential” restaurants one should consider when dining in Las Vegas. We started off the morning with a Bloody Mary Bar with a vast menu of selections to customize one's cocktail- Fresh- Compressed Celery Cucumber Lemon Lime Basil Cilantro Jalapeno Chives Tomatoes Marinated/Cured- Tomolives Spanish Green Olives Castelvetrano Olives House Pickled Asparagus Windy City Wasabeans Crispy Bacon Horseradish Sauces- Tabasco Worcestershire Cholula Hot Sauce BBQ Sauce Siracha Red Chili Paste Balsamic Vinegar Olive Oil A1 Steak Sauce Salts/Spices- Togarashi Maldon Sea Salt Smoked Sea Salt Bacon Salt Cayenne Salt Celery Salt Old Bay Seasoning Ancho Chili Powder Cracked Black Pepper Ground Cumin Spirits- Belvedere Bloody Mary Purity House Cucumber-Infused Absolut Much was discussed about the changes that will take place in the "Top Ten" list as the Authors begin their work on the next edition. This is the Top Ten list that currently appear in the book, (with some commentary on the changes we could see in 2012)- -Alex (Wynn)-CLOSED, (no rational answer has ever been released by Wynn as to why the restaurant was suddenly shuddered). -Bartolotta Ristorante Di Mare (Wynn)-(could lose the spot as the top seafood restaurant in Las Vegas to the contemporary Greek "Milos" at the newly opened Cosmopolitan). -Bar Masa (Aria at CityCenter) -Cut (Palazzo) -Guy Savoy (Caesar’s Palace) -Joel Robuchon (MGM Grand) -L’Atelier (MGM Grand) -Picasso (Bellagio) -RM Seafood (Mandalay Place)-(will the turnover of Sous Chefs topple RM from the list?) -Twist (Mandarin Oriental) Left to Right: Knowlton, Curtas, Jacobson and Mancini The discussion also turned to the place that traditional food writing, (i.e., print Magazines like Bon Appetit), has in today's contemporary and electronic world of food and dining reporting. (The consensus was that we will see less and less of the traditional food writer/writing and the growth of food "bloggers" will continue). Finally, there was a discussion of the issue of the "anonymous" critic, (which doesn't happen with these three visible Vegas figures), and whether or not a comp meal is both ethical and fair game for a review. (The panel all agreed that comps are not expected but accepted. Curtas upholds his commitment to be truthful in a review whether the meal is comped or not. Jacobson and Mancini don't review a meal that is comped, labeling it "somewhat disingenuous. I wasn't given a voice or vote on the subject). "Eating Las Vegas 2011, The 50 Essential Restaurants," can be purchased through the "We Care.com" site here. Purchases through the site help the Society in our advancement of the Culinary Arts.

Friday, May 6- The Grand Tasting, The Pools at Caesar’s Palace- This year, the Grand Tasting became the marquee even of Vegas Uncork’d when the tribute dinner to Paul Bocuse on Saturday night was abruptly and unceremoniously cancelled. This year the Grand Tasting was spread out a little more due to finished construction in the pool areas so I was hoping that the extra room would accommodate the hungry throngs. But as the evening went on, I had a sense that attendance was down-owing in part to the fact that the cost of a ticket went up to $200 this year which is never a good sign in a depressed Las Vegas economy. Locals make up a large contingent of the folks who attend the Grand Tasting and it may have been a bit much to ask of them to support Uncork’d at that price. The Grand Tasting features over 50 restaurants (primarily from the large Strip resorts), and many of the Chef’s whose names grace the doors of their signature restaurants are in attendance. It’s a wonderful venue for the general public to sample little bites from the restaurants. There are also booths featuring wines, spirits, and beers. One Celebrity Chef wasn’t in the house this year, (and no one seemed to notice). Apparently Bobby Flay had a previous engagement at the Kentucky Derby. Another Celebrity Chef made his first prance into the Grand Tasting this year. Surrounded by security and a trail of mignons, Gordon Ramsay paraded through the event waving off the curious autograph seekers, (none of which he obliged with a signature as far as I could see). Ramsay’s presence is sure to fuel continued rumors of the opening of a signature restaurant at Caesar’s Palace. Bar Masa, Aria Hotel, Chef Masa Takayama- Chef Guy Savoy and Jean Joho, (Eiffel Tower Restaurant), checking out the Big Green Egg at a barbecue booth- China Poblano by Jose Andres, Cosmopolitan Hotel- Scallop with Grilled Lime- Rao's, Caesar's Palace- Meatball Sliders- Nobu, Chef Nobu Matsuhisa, Hard Rock Hotel- Miso-Marinated Black Cod- Foie Gras Burger on Brioche-Robuchon, MGM Grand Hotel, (the most popular booth every year)- The line behind the booth. Cooking burgers, sauteeing foie gras, reducing the demi-glace- The foie gras at a little outdoor party- Properly toasting the buns-

Friday, May 6- "Culinary Revelations, Shabu-Shabu" Jasmine Restaurant Bellagio. One of the most popular series of events at Uncork'd are the "Culinary Revelations" where guests have the opportunity to cook interactively with the Chefs and then have a taste of their creations. (Remember Ross and Meeker cooking whole fish in a salt crust at Wynn last year? Read about it here). I've never cooked a Chinese "Hotpot" so I was intrigued to try my skill at the art of "swish-swish." Hotpot (Chinese) is an ancient dish that become popular in China during the Tang Dynasty AD 618-906. Meaning "swish swish," Shabu-Shabu (Japanese), or Hotpot, is a hearty, warming dish composed of hot broth placed in the center of a communal table and accompanied by meats, seafood, vegetables and noodles (China), or rice (Japan). Diners simply dip the garnishes into the hot broth and "swish" it around until it is done. A variety of different types of broths may be used, and the flavor of the broth develops and deepens as the meats, seafood, vegetables and then noodles are added. At the end of the meal the broth turns into a flavorful, rich soup. The table setting for Shabu-Shabu- Chef Philip Lo of Jasmine and Bellagio Executive Chef Edmund Wong were our instructors, and they started with an opener of Avocado Stuffed with Crab, Preserved Lemon, Compressed Watermelon and Bonito Gelee. This week I've found a number of "Modernist" techniques employed by Chefs at restaurants throughout Las Vegas. Chef Wong explained that the watermelon is compressed in cry-o-vac with sugar and sweet soy. Incredibly the watermelon retained its texture through the process and it had an intense, sweet flavor. The table setting showing the basket we would use to dip the garnished in the bubbling broth and three dipping sauces, including Satay Sauce, Sesame Seed Vinegar, (toasted sesame seeds ground to a paste and then mixed with oil and vinegar), and Soy Sauce with Fresh Chili- To accompany the Shabu-Shabu, the Beer and Spirits Sommelier selected two beers-A 2010 "Vintage" Hitachino Nest Commerative Ale and a dark Asahi Black Kuronama Lager. The Hitachino Nest Ale is crafted from 5 different malts, 3 hops, and 5 spices including vanilla, coriander, orange peel, nutmeg and cinnamon. Chef Lo explained that due to the cold weather found in Northern China, the traditional Mongolian Hotpot is made with a funnel on top of the pot so that the steam from the boiling broth takes longer to dissapate. In Japan where most Shabu-Shabu is served indoors, the traditional pot is crafted of clay and the lid is left off the pot during cooking. Boiling Chicken Broth in the pot. (The Bellagio makes 200 gallons of fresh chicken stock each day!) The accompaniments-Sliced Kobe Beef, Diver Scallops, Shitake and Enoki Mushrooms, Napa Cabbage, Spinach, Glass Noodles and Tomato- The first "Swish-Swish,"-Mushrooms stirred into the broth- Mushrooms and Kobe Beef in the soup bowl- With broth- With glass noodles- With tomato, the final, deep, rich, fragant broth- We started with 12 tables all with the same broth in the pot. In the end, we had 12 different broths based on the composition of the ingredients that had been added to each pot. In homes, the final broth is typically kept and served the next day as a soup. Chef Lo recommends saving the broth and using it for boiling noodles or rice the next day. "Swish-Swish in the Hot Pot," was a fun event and I've learned a new, (and easy) technique for serving a delicious communal meal.

Thank you. The plated food at The Wicked Spoon was much better than the typical trays of food at most of the other buffets. Some people have commented on other sites that the pre-plated food is an attempt to avoid waste-i.e. it's cheaper to put out little crocks of crab legs and only replace them as needed as opposed to a groaning tray of boiled crab legs that may go uneaten. I think it's a combination of two things-only putting out food as it is taken (and thus controlling waste and cost), but more importantly, it's a matter of giving the kitchen more latitude in the types of offerings on the buffet and presents the customer with a more contemporary style of dining. Payard is one of my favorites in Las Vegas. While I enjoy the high-end French rooms of Savoy and Gagnaire, I prefer the small-Bistro feel and traditional dishes at Payard. And who can not like Francois? A Chef with a glass of red wine or cognac in his hand is a wonderful Host.

Friday, May 6- The Chef Showdown was held at the Tuscany Kitchen at Bellagio. The Executives at Bellagio made a wise decision when they built the large display kitchen. It's the only large-scale teaching kitchen and classroom on the Strip-a perfect setting for staging classes by world-class Chefs. Located in the convention room wing of the hotel, the Tuscany Kitchen is large enough to accomodate 2-4 Chefs in the cooking area while seating up to 100 guests at tables or in a conventional classroom setting. The room is outfitted with electronics and high-definition televisions so that guests have full access to see and hear the cooking in the kitchen up front. The Chef Showdown was billed as a sort of mini-Iron Chef competition, but it was really just an opportunity to watch two of Bellagio's young Chefs--Akira Back of Yellowtail Sushi and Martin Heirling, Sensi--cook side-by-side using the same ingredients, (with very, very loose time constraints). The audience had had the opportunity to ask the Chefs questions about the ingredients and their preparations as they came together, and the Director of Wines at Bellagio answered questions about the wine pairings that went with each dish. One interesting note for wine enthusiasts-currently there are 111 Master Sommeliers in America. 15 of those Master Sommeliers reside in Las Vegas, and 3 of them work within the Bellagio. There are 5 "Advanced Sommeliers" at Bellagio who are currently studying through the process of becoming a Master Sommlier. As one can see, there is a serious focus on wines, (and beer and spirits too), not only at Bellagio but throughout Las Vegas. The Bellagio serves approximately 2,000 bottles a day and the cellars currently hold over $10 million dollars of wine. Our Host for the cook-off was Andrew Knowlton, the Restaurant and Drinks Editor of Bon Appetit. Mr. Knowlton is one of only two staff members at Bon Appetit to have survived the change in Editor the past year, and one of only two employees who has been a regular host at Uncork'd throughout its five-year history. Known in part for his appearances as a Judge on Iron Chef America, Knowlton has a deep knowledge of not only cooking and ingredients, but the experience of dining in Las Vegas-and trends in dining throughout America-allowing him the ability to add an informed commentary linking the work of the Chefs with the audience Members. The Chefs were charged with preparing two dishes using two secret ingredients-one per dish. (The ingredients weren't really "secret"-the Chefs had already prepared 90 serving dishes using the secret ingredient that would be served to the attendees). And the not-so-secret ingredients: Appetizer Ingredient- Scallops, (including bay scallops, Diver scallops, smoked and dried scallops)- Entree Ingredient- Mushrooms, (including morels, summer truffles, oyster, portabello, shitake and enoki)- Round One, The Appetizer- Chef Back chose a simple preparation using his style of combining modern style with Asian accents. Scallop "Pizza," with Diver Scallop Carpaccio, "Kewpie" Mayonnaise and Truffle on Grilled Tortilla- Chef Heirling preapred an intricate dish using his strong technical skills combined with his penchant for the flavors of Southeast Asia. Seared Sea Scallop coated in Fermented Rice Flakes, sauce of Tamarind, Ginger, Cilantro, Lime and Compressed Pineapple- Round Two, The Entree- Chef Back presented a vegetarian tasting of 5 different mushrooms, including Oyster, Morel, Shimenji, Porcini and Portabella. Tasting of Five-Mushrooms- Chef Heirling crafted an intricate dish of rabbit wrapped with bacon and small, "Parisian-style" gnocchi braised in mushroom stock and garnished with Spring Vegetables, including fava beans, peas and ramps. The mushroom included morels, shitake and truffle. Bacon-Wrapped Rabbit Loin with Parisian Gnocchi and Mushrooms- We, (the attendees), acted as the Judging Panel and there was some debate about who would be crowned the overall winner. Chef Heirling's Scallop dish was the preferred favorite of the two appetizer dishes. The fermented rice flakes added a crispy, sweet, hint of rice flavor that didn't overpower the buttery scallop, and the sauce, oh that sauce. Sweet, (from the compressed pineapple), herbal (cilantro), yet sour (lime). It was a unique treatment of Scallops you won't find on any other menu. However, the diners preferred Chef Back's mushroom dish. Chef Heirling's dish had two visible faults-the smoked bacon overwhelmed the delicate sweet meat of the rabbit and the mushroom was barely apparent-a small scattering of mushrooms as a garnish yet no deep mushroom flavor imbued into the dish. The most stunning dish in Chef Back's line of five mushroom treatments was the little oyster mushroom dumpling. Aside from the fact the dumpling wrapper was tough and dry, (probably the result of sitting to long on the serving line in back), the oyster stuffing was intense. Chef Back explained that he braised the mushrooms in a delicate mixture of soy, cream and mushroom broth, then garnished the mixture with a boost from yuzu and cilantro. You can never leave the table in Las Vegas without having pastry, (compliments of the Bellagio pastry kitchen)- For the serious home cook and the informed diner, experiences like the Chef Showdown provide us with the opportunity to see these gifted Chefs at work while at the same time delivering lessons on how they bring flavors together. Who knew, (I didn't), that there were three styles of Gnocchi, including the "Parisian" style. We learn flavor combinations that we may not have thought about before, (fermented rice flakes, tamarind, pineapple and lime), and how we can employ professional, yet simple techniques in our home kitchens, (pineapple compressed in a vacuum bag to intensify the flavors).

I'm working on presenting the activities from yesterday, Friday, May 6, including: -Chef Showdown at Bellagio Chef Akira Back, Yellowtail Sushi Chef Martin Heirling, Sensi -Shabu, Shabu at Bellagio Chef Edmund Wong Chef Philip Lo -Grand Tasting, Pools at Caesar's Palace But I thought I might tempt you this morning with a very special seat I have at a table for only 8 diners tonight. In this, our tenth year when we celebrate the Modernist movement, I'll be reporting on a dinner tonight, (not part of the official Uncork'd activities), that will be presented by one of the leaders of what he calls the Spanish "Avant-Garde," brigade. A well-known Chef who has taken the dining community of Las Vegas by storm. I think it will be a report that speaks perfectly to our place in the Modernist movement.

Thursday, May 5- Thursday evening is the official launch of Vegas Uncork’d events. Private “Master Series” Dinners were held at the signature restaurants at Caesar’s Palace, including Bradley Ogden, Guy Savoy, Rao’s, and Payard Patisserie and Bistro. Another Master Series dinner was held at Sinatra restaurant at Wynn/Encore. Guests are given the exclusive opportunity to have a private dinner prepared by the Chef served with vintage wines from the deep cellars of Las Vegas. Tonight I would be dining at Payard Bistro and Patisserie in Caesar’s Palace. The last time I dined at Payard was at the 2009 Uncork’d Event—and the dinner caused somewhat of a stir among the Members when I reported on the Fish Course at that dinner. You can read the 2009 report, “Klatsch: Popping the Cork in Las Vegas," here. The dish that became the cause for a spirited debate was the “Chilean Sea Bass with Baby Bok Choy and Oakwood Shiitake, Soy-Honey Balsamic Glaze." It was controversial to choose an unsustainable, over-fished species to present at a private affair of food aficianados. Yet that was in the past so I was looking forward to another special French bistro inspired menu from Chef Payard. Born in Nice in 1966, Francois Payard learned the craft and artistry of pastry while working at his Grandfather’s shop, Au Nid des Friandises, (nest of treats). Payard arrived in New York in 1990 in the pastry kitchen at Le Bernadin then moving on to Daniel. Today, Chef Payard operates Patisserie’s and Bistro’s in New York, Brazil, Japan and Las Vegas. The evening began with Chef introducing the small staff of 3 Chefs and 2 Managers along with his small crew of servers. The main focus is the Patisserie, but he intentionally designed the Bistro to be an intimate, 42-seat dining room where he could serve French bistro fare at an affordable price. A round room with a kitchen in the center, Payard Bistro serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. They currently have a lunch special of 3 select courses for under $25.00. The table settings included a box of Payard’s hand-crafted chocolates- Because the restaurant is so small it's not designed to hold the deep vintages of the more visible restaurants at Caesar's Palace like Guy Savoy, but the wines offered paired reasonably well with each dish. First Course- Parmesan Souffle Cheese and Cream Reduction, White Truffle Oil, Summer Truffle Domaine Carneros 2006 Brut Champagne, California Second Course- Coquille Payard Seared Scallop, Cauliflower Veloute, Aigre Doux Sweet Onion Craggy Range Te Muna Road, 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand Third Course- Filet of Halibut Pan Seared, Eggplant Caviar, Tomato Consomme, Beans ZD Vineyards 2009 Chardonnay, California Fourth Course- Duo de Boeuf- Petite Filet Mignon & Braised Short Rib Gratin Dauphinois, Merlot Reduction Matanzas Creek Winery, 2006 Merlot, California Pre-Dessert- Hot and Cold Pina Colada Dessert- Chocolate Palet d'Or Undoubtedly, the French show their skill as the Masters of Pastry in Las Vegas.

Thursday, May 5- Vegas Uncork'd officially kicked off today with the traditional saber opening of champagne. This year the event moved outdoors to Las Vegas Blvd., in front of the Bellagio. The only event that could close off foot traffic on Las Vegas Blvd. would be an assembly of the world's great Chefs, including Joel Robuchon, Guy Savoy, Pierre Gagnaire, Jean Joho, Francois Payard, Scott Conant, Tom Colicchio, Rick Moonen and Jose Andres to name a few. The ceremony was delayed as we waited in 90+ heat for the only thing that could delay the saber opening of the champagne-the delivery of a gin martini from the Petrossian Bar at Bellagio. Yes, Oscar Goodman, honorary attendee of the festivities, could not make his Mayoral address to the crowd until his dry martini was delivered to Las Vegas Blvd. Chef Julian Serrano, Piscasso, cutting the bottle with the saber Robuchon team Las Vegas-

It's fantastic with chips, as a marinade for meat and seafood, and it's especially good as a sauce over grilled chicken. I also buy the fire-roasted red tomato salsa. Delicious and every bit as good as some of the other bottled and fresh salsa out there.

Wednesday, May 4- Twist, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Chef Pierre Gagnaire. As I mentioned in my report on Vegas Uncork'd 2010 here, the four "French Masters" as I call them, Ducasse, Robuchon, Savoy and Gagnaire couldn't be more different. Defining each Chef by simply saying they cook "French" food would be denying them the creativity defines their style. It would be akin to saying that the brushstrokes of Monet and Renoir were the same simply because they belonged to the group of French Impressionists. Some describe Savoy as the quiet, traditionalist of Paris, Robuchon the technical, precise showman who infuses the flavors of Asia into his cuisine. Ducasse favors the pure, sunwashed flavors of the Mediterreanean intermingled into his French classics. And then there is Pierre. Gagnaire is often referred to as the "genie," (genius), of French cuisine-leading the French Modernist movement against the Spanish Armada in a rush to establish French cuisine in the 21st Century. Gagnaire describes his style as "tourné vers demain mais soucieux d'hier," (facing tommorrow but respectful of yesterday). On page 88 of his book, "Reflections on Culinary Artistry," Gagnaire describes a sweet of "Sorbet of Spanish Carva 'Cloud,' with Muscat Grapes in Gelee." As controversial French artists found centuries ago, changing the tastes of the old-guard can involve great risk. Gagnaire has been known to deliver both exceptional culinary feats to his customers, while at the same time teetering on the precipice of a spiraling fall with dishes that include too many competing flavors. Chef Gagnaire was in the restaurant last night, dividing his time between the kitchen and visiting the customers in the dining room. He told me that he comes to Las Vegas about four times a year when his schedule allows, and he makes a special effort to be in town during the events related to Vegas Uncork'd. I selected the 6-course Tasting Menu, ($189), and the wine pairing, ($90). There is an additional surcharge for the "premium wine pairing." There isn't considerable light in the dining room, so there wasn't an opportunity to photograph most of the dishes and portray them in the beautiful setting in which they were presented. Alas, I can only provide a description of the menu and a few comments. PIERRE GAGNAIRE’S SPIRIT * ANTARCTIC BUTTERFISH Cuttlefish Carpaccio, Carrot Cream, Cumin Seeds, Celeriac Cubes & Puree, Red Currant Argenteuil Broth, Asparagus Gelée & Tips, Shaved Parmesan * SANTA MONICA PRAWNSPears Chicory & Orange Stew Prawn Essence, Sarawak Black Pepper Scented * FOIE GRAS DEGUSTATION Parfait, Salted Prune Paste, Torrefied Almonds, Crispy Biscuits Custard, Water Cress Salad Shaved, Radicchio, Thai Grapefruit (The least favorite of the trio. The tang of the grapefruit totally overwhelmed the delicate shavings of foie gras and compromised the last few sips of wine). * INTERMEZZO Preserved, Iced Californian Meyer Lemon, Fresh Toasted Coconut, Green Pepper Sticks (The only dish where Gagnaire did in fact, get so close to the edge the flavors fell apart--so tart and incredibly peppered the dish was inedible). * ROCKY MOUNTAIN & AUSTRALIAN NEVER-NEVER LAMB Lamb Chop Milanese Style, Stiletto Eggplant Zucchini Cream, Colombo Curry Perfumed, Baby Onions Sautéed Lamb Leg, Ras el Hanout Spice Mix, Crispy Garlic Croquette GRAND DESSERT PIERRE GAGNAIRE FIVE DESSERTS INSPIRED BY FRENCH TRADITIONAL PATISSIERIES Strawberries & Saffron, Red Pepper Confit and Syrup Saffron flavored, Fresh Strawberries, Ginger White Chocolate, White Chocolate Mousse & Fondue, Ginger Sorbet, Passion Fruit Melon Melange, Almond Milk, Coconut Tapioca, Midori Honeydew, Cantaloupe Orange Sanguine, Biscuit Jaconde, Crème Mousseline, Orange Confit , Blood Orange Rum Spring Chocolate, Genoise, Café Mousse, Parfait Café Pistachio, Amarena Cherries The food, setting and service were as memorable as you would expect from a Michelin-Star Chef. Gagnaire visited the table at least three times and is a gracious and inviting host. The only minor quibbles were the strong grapefuit in the salad paired with foie gras shavings and the terrible "intermezzo." Gagnaire was the last of the four "French Masters" I had yet dined with. I'm glad that I did.

Wednesday, May 4- Pink's Hot Dogs at Planet Hollywood. As a wise friend from Brooklyn would say, "eh, what's all the talk about?" Throw away the bun. Hold the raw onions and yellow mustard. You are left with a good hot dog and decent chili.

Tuesday, May 3- Wicked Spoon Buffet, Cosmopolitan Hotel I love a good buffet. (Almost sounds like it could be a Barry Manilow hit). Station after station of food where I can pick and choose what to eat and how much I can handle. Imagine, all this food just for me. For one price. It's been years since Las Vegas shrugged off the old image of $3.99 buffets where patrons slogged down a line with a tray ala the cafeteria-style that was popular up until the late 1980's. With the development of the mega-resorts, the buffets on the Strip were upgraded both in terms of the variety of the food offerings and the cost of a buffet meal. The latest innovation in buffet design and cuisine can be found at the Wicked Spoon at the Cosmopolitan. The Wicked Spoon is a departure from the other high-end buffets on the Strip both in design and the presentation of the food. The modern, sleek design, dark woods and chandeliers echo the style of a steakhouse more than a buffet feeding the hoards of Las Vegas. There are booths, tables and eating bars situated around the dining room giving families, couples and singles plenty of seating options. According to my friendly waiter, the Executive Staff at the Cosmopolitan travelled around Europe sampling various buffets. Apparently the concept of the Wicked Spoon is based in part on their findings-rather than put the food out in the traditional soggy, steam-tray style of American buffets, the offerings would be individually plated, giving customers fresher, hotter, higher quality servings. (I don't know if in fact the waiter's description of the background of the Wicked Spoon is accurate. It sounds more like a basic Swedish Smorgasboard to me). After describing the buffet platform, the waiter told me that the water glasses were crafted in France. If the precious little glass globes are imported from France, the Cosmopolitan is wasting money. I asked the waiter for a larger glass, "like the size of glass that guy has for his iced tea," (a reference to the gentleman at the next table. The waiter said, "yeah, a lot of people ask for a bigger water glass." I've only captured a fraction of all the dishes on offer, but the photos will provide you with a snapshot of what you might experience should you choose the Wicked Spoon- Salads- First Plate-Melon Gazpacho, (watery and weak in flavor), Pork Rillette, Marinated Olives, Pretzel Roll, Air-Dried Beef, Salami, Prosciutto- Unique Asian Soup Bar- Second Plate- Rice Noodle with Dashi Broth, General Tso Chicken, Salt and Pepper Prawns, Black Pepper Lamb Ribs, (too heavy on the black pepper and the numbing Szechuan black peppercorns)- Little crocks of Crab Leg Cocktail- Third Plate- Crab Cocktail, Shrimp Cocktail, Ceasar Salad, (watered-down dressing that needed a shot of lemon and Worcestershire), Grilled Asparagus, (is there a salt and pepper shaker in the house?)- Fourth Plate- Skirt Steak Salad with Apple and Almond Slaw, (in the background, little deep-fry baskets of Chicken and Waffles)- Blackened Haddock with Crawfish Hollandaise, (Sadly, raw fish that is supposed to be cooked through isn't appetizing)- Fifth Plate- Roasted Bone Marrow, (have you ever seen that on a buffet?), Truffled Potatoes, Leg of Lamb with Chimmichurri Sauce, (applause for leaving the bottled mint sauce in the pantry)- The Desserts- Sixth Plate- Dessert Sampler- With tax and tip, the Wicked Spoon will cost you about $35.00. Add a cocktail, beer or glass of wine and expect the bill to be another $10 bucks. Taxi cabs are available at an additional cost should you be too heavy to walk back to your hotel.

That seafood is beautiful.

Part of the fun outside of Uncork'd is coming in a few days early so you can dine at new restaurants that have opened since the last trip and visit old favorites. Tonight we're dining at Twist. Chef Gagnaire is in the kitchen. Then we'll be heading down to Mix to try some classics on the Ducasse menu. Chef Ducasse will be in town this week, I'm just not sure if he'll be at the restaurant tonight. Reports and photos of the feast to come.

Tuesday, May 3- Las Vegas is known in some food circles for having more world-class Pastry Chefs than any other city outside of the great pastry cities in continental Europe. I never make a trip to Las Vegas without doing a bit of shopping at the shop I consider the best-Jean Phillipe Patisserie. Jean Phillipe Maury holds many pastry awards, including the title of "Meilleur Ouvrier de France," the Top French Pastry Chef. In 2002, Chef Maury stunned the Pastry World and his French brethren when he led Team USA to the World Team Pastry Championship. Jean Phillipe has two Patisseries in Las Vegas-the original outpost in Bellagio with the chocolate fountain and the newer, larger location in Aria Resort at City Center. The current display at the Bellagio Patisserie is a train locomotive crafted out of bright, spring-colored marshmallows. The pastry cases are neatly lined with all manner of little French treats. My two selections, "Tutti Frutti"-layers of nutty cakes sandwiched between layers of silken fruit mousse, topped with strawberries and a white chocolate frill. "Nutella Millefeuille"-chocolate mousse, praline crisp and nutella wafers.

I arrived in Las Vegas on Tuesday so that I could spend two days feasting on my own until the Uncork'd festivities begin. Tuesday, May 3- The first stop, Holstein's burger Restaurant at the Cosmopolitan Hotel. The restaurant website bills Holstein's as "Our cows have attitude and they've left their mark. No we don't mean the grafitti decor. We mean the uniquely crafted bad-ass burgers and milkshakes you won't be able to find anywhere else in Las Vegas." Las Vegas is rife with upscale burger restaurants, many of them operated by well-known Chefs. Yet aside from marketing schtick, the concepts are all pretty much the same-quality beef with all manner of garnishes (including lobster, truffles and foie gras), trendy little appetizers (aka, fried dill pickles), and boozy milkshakes. Really, the only difference between all these places is the decor and the service. The menus are, for the most part, the same. And while I've had my fair tastes of the upscale burgers in Las Vegas, to my dying days I will always claim the burger I properly make at home outshines them all. The first sign that there may be trouble in the cow pasture was the moment I entered the restaurant. The Hostess gave me that dreaded "uh-oh a single diner is coming my way," look. She proceeded to physically point to the bar and repeatedly said, "you want to sit in the bar, right?" No. "Did you say you wanted a seat at the bar." No. "You want to eat in the restaurant?" Yes. After it was made clear that the customer preferred a more comfortable seat in the quiet, near-empty restaurant, I was seated in one of the small rooms that makes up the main dining area. (And seated with other single diners who had also passed the muster of the grumpy Hostess). The burger menu runs the gamut from the "New Delhi Chicken," marinated in tandoori spices, with frisee, apricot date chutney and tomato cucumber raita to the top-selling, (according to the waitress), "Longhorn" burger topped with smoked brisket, whiskey bbq sauce, creamy cole slaw and dill pickle. I chose the most boring burger, (but always the true measure of a burger joint), the "Classic," with lettuce, tomato, onion, pickle and mayonnaise at $13.50. Cheese was an extra $2.00. The burgers all come with a choice of skinny or steak fries. I supplemented the burger with a side of onion rings. The waitstaff was a bit off the mark. The standard uniform was casual shirts will rolled-up sleeves, low hanging jeans and tennis shoes. Yet there was one overly embelished waitress in a too-tight red dress, (that she kept pulling down only to have the Manager whisper, "it's o.k."), and knee-high black patent leather boots. Only in Las Vegas. I was pleasantly suprised when the waitress asked me how I would like the burger cooked. Most burger places are too scared these days to ask such a burning question for fear that if the burgers, (Five Guys), aren't scorched through they will send a customer home with ecoli. I asked for the burger medium-rare with cheddar cheese. The onion rings are cut thick and are cloaked in a buttery-crisp coating of panko breadcrumbs. Delicious. The skinny fries that accompanied the burger were properly crisp and salty. Burger appearances can be deceiving and while this "Classic" looked like a beauty, after the first bite I changed my opinion. Once again I had become the victim of the un-toasted bun, (the crime happened a few months back at Hubert Keller's Burger Bar at Mandalay Bay). How much extra care and attention does it take to butter and toast a decent brioche bun? Failing to do so results in a bread sponge that disintegrates when faced with a juicy burger and condiments. A toasted bun acts as a sort of safe-barrier so that the burger stands up through each bite. The cheese was Swiss not cheddar, and apparently "medium-rare" is a term for debate between customer and cook. Holstein's considers medium-rare to actually be rare. I wasn't going to be persnickety and send the burger back, it was charred and cripsy on the edges and the quality of the meat at least made the rare interior palatable. When I told the waitress the burger had a really good, beefy flavor she said it was because they "grind their own meat twice a day-in the morning and then late at night." Admirable to grind your own choice meat, but do they really have a guy on the late, overnight shift grinding beef? Maybe. Buyer beware when you venture into any of the upscale burger houses in Las Vegas. The cost for my lunch of iced tea, burger that came with fries and a side order of onion rings came to $31.43 including tax and tip. I'm glad I tried Holstein's. I'd give the experience a solid B+ grade. The initial service experience was poor, the soggy bun, wrong type of cheese and under-cooked burger were aggravations but not show-stoppers. I'll wait to have a great burger when I get home.