David Ross

Gobs and gobs of chimmichurri with mint. Freeze it and you'll have a wonderful condiment for your lamb, pork, chicken and beef roasts and steaks.

Thank you for this wonderful story. I have a fondness for the Salisbury Steak. It was a special treat for my Sister and I when we were kids. When Mother and Father went out, my Mother felt that we apparently needed tending by a "babysitter." We weren't babies and we didn't think we needed to be watched by an 80 year-old Grandmother, but we did look forward to a treat-Swanson frozen Salisbury Steak Dinners. I loved the foil tin, the foil covering, and the little dessert at the top of the tray. It was the only time Mother allowed us to eat dinner in front of the actual tv, with a tv dinner. I don't think that I could ever come close to duplicating that wonderful Salisbury Steak taste when I was a kid. Sure, I'd concoct todays version of Salisbury Steak out of some sort of grass-fed, organic beef, but it just wouldn't be the same.

I have this incredible chive plant in my backyard. I bought the little thing one Summer about 5 years ago. Just stuck it out in a flower bed and didn't do anything else-no fertilizer, no trimming, nothing. It has endured winters under 4' of snow and below zero temperatures, yet it still comes back ever stronger each Spring. I've got a ready supply of fresh chives a few feet from the kitchen, but now I've got the added benefit of these blossoms. Can I cook with them? Are they tasty eaten raw in a salad, a garnish for a soup?

I am quite lucky right now-fresh Copper River Salmon from Alaska and fresh morels from the forest just a few miles out of town. Copper River Salmon with Morel Custard and Fava Beans-

I'm the oddball out here-I don't wash Morels. Due to a long, wet Winter and Spring, we just saw our first fresh Morels in Eastern, WA, last week. I buy mine at a local market that procures the morels in the forests just a few miles out of Spokane. They are currently selling at $35/lb. Tonight I paired the morels with some fresh Copper River Salmon. First, a morel custard that includes chopped fresh morels sauteed with garlic in olive oil and butter, (and a whole morel placed in the center). Second, a saute of fresh morels and fava beans. Now I must admit that a teensy little ant crawled onto the cutting board while I was chopping morels for the custard, but I quickly showed him on his way. Whether there were other any family members amongst the morels I don't know, but they sure did taste good. (Next time I may have to pick through them first before the ants crawl out).

The price is now down to $17.99 a pound in Eastern, WA. It sounds like it's a good season with plenty of fish, albeit they are running smaller than I've seen in the past. Most of the Copper River Sockeye in our markets are in the under 6lb. range. Tonight, Copper River Salmon with Morel Custard and Fava Beans- I sauteed the salmon in butter and olive oil and seasoned with just a dash of salt and pepper. We finally have fresh morels in our market, $35 per pound. I made a custard with diced morels, (and a whole morel in the center), and then sauteed some morels and fresh fava beans.

You know, I'll have to agree with you on that one. I got lucky today, found those beautiful rolls in a supermarket--hard on the outside with a pillowy soft inside, yet it withstood all the oysters juices without falling apart. A very good roll is a hard thing to find.

What could be easier for a home cook? A breadroll, some lettuce, some dressing, some meat, poultry or seafood. The only real work, which is just a few steps, is frying the inside fixins of a Po'Boy sandwich and making the dressing. While I don't live in the South, I've acquired an incredible taste for the Po'Boy sandwich, and luckily for me, I live in the Pacific Northwest where my favorite Po'Boy ingredients, oysters, are readily available fresh year-round. Today, my favorite, the "Oyster Po'Boy" with homemade tartar sauce, (mayonnaise, dill pickle relish, lemon juice, Old Bay seasoning and cayenne). While the Oyster Po'Boy is my favorite, I also like soft-shell crab Po'Boys, and I'm toying with the idea of a chicken liver or duck gizzard Po'Boy. What's your favorit Po'Boy to make at home?

I'm so happy, (and proud), to take this tour with you this week. I was born and raised in Portland, then spent most of my life growing up in Salem. I come from the generation when Portland was a sleepy city in the Northwest, the stepchild to Seattle and Vancouver in terms of fame for restaurants. It would be years later that Portland would find a recognizable place in today's food world. But as James Beard so proudly proclaimed decades ago, we always knew that Portland had access to a bounty of wonderful ingredients and the food and cooking in Portland was and has been at the forefront of the "farm to table" movement for years-it just wasn't apparent to the rest of the country. I live in Washington now, but I still travel to Oregon and when I do, I always make a stop at Uwajimaya. It's easy to stock two full coolers of their wonderful fresh seafood and Asian specialties. They have the most wonderful Asian "deli" I've ever seen.

I do like the flavor and rich golden color of Kerry Gold butter, but I prefer the small-producer French butters that I can get at the one upscale market in town. The butterfat content isn't much higher than Kerry Gold, but the French butters have a richer, deeper flavor for my tastes. Tillamook Dairy butter is my regular use butter.

Two dishes using our fresh WA asparagus--a salmon dish, (details at the 2011 Copper River Salmon topic here), and another dish with sweetbreads, (in the Learning from Joel Robuchon topic here). Copper River Salmon, Asparagus Veloute, Asparagus Salad and Yukon Gold Chips- Crispy-Fried Sweetbreads with Cool Asparagus Veloute-

Tonight I did another dish using the Robuchon recipe for Asparagus Veloute. I kept the Veloute cold this time and served it with some crispy-fried sweetbreads and a garnish of preserved lemon. While I love Copper River Salmon, I think this combination, (the cold Veloute with the hot, crispy Sweetbreads), worked better. Crispy-Fried Sweetbreads with Cool Asparagus Veloute-

Thanks. The asparagus salad is my recipe-can't give Robuchon credit for it. It's shaved asaparagus that is blanched for about a minute in boiling water to soften it. (I learned to "shave" asparagus with a carrot peeler from Chef Alex Stratta, of Las Vegas). I use a Japanese julienne slicer for the carrot. The dressing was just one part apple cider vinegar to two parts hazelnut oil, and the garnish is toasted hazelnuts. I thought the sweet/sour notes in the salad would balance out the richness of the Robuchon Asaparagus Veloute, and I wanted some sort of asparagus garnish that said "that's what's in the sauce-asparagus."

Paul those are beautiful, thick filets. I'll try the Cedar Plank method next week.

Tonight I did a Copper River Salmon with Asparagus Veloute, Asparagus Salad and Yukon Gold "Chips." (The dish is posted here in the 2011 Copper River Salmon topic).The Veloute recipe is from "The Complete Robuchon." I often struggle with extracting the maximum amount of flavor out of an ingredient, but Robuchon has taught me how to do so and his Asparagus Veloute recipe is an example. The basic recipe calls for cooking asparagus stems in a stock, resulting in an incredibly deep asparagus blend. There are a couple of reductions and strains, then surprisingly to me, Robuchon thickens the veloute with corn starch. The richness in the final steps comes from the inclusion of egg beaten into cream and then stirred into the stock. I don't think I've ever tasted a more pure asparagus flavor.

It was probably about 6oz. or so, although I didn't weigh it. Anything more than that with Copper River seems overkill for one serving.

I was off a dollar in price, my Copper River Sockeye was 18.99 a pound and I bought a side that was just over 2 pounds. I seasoned the Salmon with Paul Prudhomme's basic Cajun spice mix, then saute in a cast iron pan with olive oil and butter. Two minutes per side, then turn it into a 450 oven for 5 minutes. The sauce is an asparagus veloute based on a recipe from "The Complete Robuchon." Simple and easy and Robuchon instructs you on how to extract the maximum asparagus flavor. The salad is shaved asparagus, julienned carrot, toasted hazelnuts, hazelnut oil and apple cider vinegar. The chips are waffle cut baby Yukon Golds. If you only eat Salmon once a year, this is the Salmon to have.

I'm down twice Nancy. Although it is only one David Ross, sometimes I eat for two.

The season is on, and a bit early this year. I've just arrived back home with 2 pounds of beautiful Copper River Sockeye Salmon. And for the incredibly good price of $17.99 per pound, caught yesterday off the river and shipped directly to my go to Salmon guy in Spokane. No middleman, no fish brokers or seafood wholesale suppliers--from fisherman to market. Last year I was paying upwards of $35.00 per pound. From what I've gathered in talking to the folks at Alaska Airlines Cargo Department its going to be a good season this year. Two days ago the season's first shipment on an Alaska cargo jet from Cordova landed in Seattle with 24,300 pounds of Salmon. The second flight of the day was held another 33,000 pounds of Copper River Salmon destined for Seattle restaurants, markets and points beyond. I'll be preparing some Copper River dishes this weekend.

I can't back it up with solid facts, but last week in Las Vegas I had some Kobe tartare and was assured it was grade A-5 and imported from Japan. Of course, who knows if what you're told in Las Vegas is true.

Conclusions- The 5th Year of Uncork'd proved to be the most memorable for me personally. In the five years that I've attended Uncork'd, I've made a number of personal acqaintances, many of whom returned this year so it was fun to join them again in the fabulous food events at Uncork'd. The Master Series Dinner at Payard on Thursday was exceptional, probably the best one of these dinners I've attended in five years. Two of the highlights were the instructional classes I attended at Bellagio on Friday, the Chef Showdown with Akira Back and Martin Heirling and the Shabu-Shabu demonstration with Edmund Wong and Philip Lo. We learned techniques, flavor pairings and dishes from professionals that we'll take home and cook in our kitchens and serve to our families. The Grand Tasting on Friday night was not up to par this year, (it's never been my favorite event). Yes, there were the gourmet food booths and the Celebrity Chefs in attendance, (where else can you eat a foie gras burger slider from Robuchon and see Gordon Ramsay prancing through with his groupies). But the attendance seemed down, due I am sure in large part to the increase in the ticket price to $200 per person. The Grand Tasting is traditionally an event well-attended by the locals. Without a doubt, in one of the most depressed counties in America, $200 dollars is a steep tariff to pay for a few nibbles of this and a sip of tha. Somehow, someday, one can only hope that the planners will find a way to disperse the booths nearest to the pool in a more reasonable way so that there isn't the yearly conflagration in front of the most popular booths. A new, (and welcome), feature was the Eating Las Vegas discussion on Saturday with local Food Journalists John Curtas, Max Jacobson and Al Mancini. Never before had Uncork'd staged an event with local Food Writers who shared their inside knowledge about the Las Vegas dining scene with customers who specifically travel to Las Vegas to eat-not gamble-to eat. It certainly was far more insightful than any guidebook would ever be able to provide. The Sparkling brunch at Savoy on Sunday was a dissapointment as noted in my reports. Terribly disappointing since it was my last event at Uncork'd 2011. The last memory is often the "lasting" memory. Marginal service, a sparse menu and the case of the missing veal shouldn't be tolerated at a restaurant whose namesake Chef has been awarded 3 Michelin Stars. It will go down as the brunch where "I ate my veal with a spoon." I've purposely gone out of order in my conclusions on the events I attended during Vegas Uncork'd, leaving a final comment on Saturday until now. It was an unexpected twist of fate that I found myself having two memorable meals on Saturday. One at the hands of a Spanish Traditionalist at an event that was part of Uncork'd. The other, an ethereal experience presented by the School of the Spanish Avant-Garde. I would never have had the opportunity to dine at e' by Jose Andres had I not been in town for Uncork'd. It was a case of simple circumstance that I discovered a new path in my culinary journey through life--a path entwined with the Modernist Movement that we celebrate in our anniversary year at eGullet. Yes, Uncork'd was an incredible experience. "Magnifico efecto."

I’ve never attempted making Sashimi or Crudo at home-until tonight. I think it was because of a lack, or fear, that I wouldn’t be able to find the high-quality fresh seafood that I would need to duplicate the dishes I’ve had in restaurants. But temptation got the best of me and after I found some beautiful Dayboat Scallops at the local seafood store, I decided to try my first attempt at “Sashimi-Style Scallops” at home. The Asian Grocery was already on my list of stops, so I gathered a few items that I thought might accent the Scallops. I sliced the Scallop into four thin slices, then dressed with black peppercorn chili oil, toasted sesame oil and soy sauce. I only added a few drops of each oil so as not to overpower the Scallop yet give it some flavor and a bit of heat. The little greens are something I found called “rice paddy herb.” I have no idea if they are the leaves of a rice plant, but they have a slightly tangy, peppery flavor like arugula. The Salad is a mixture of julienned carrot and pickled radish, dressed with soy sauce, garlic, ginger, vinegar and sugar. Again being sensitive so as not to over-season the salad so it would take away from the taste of the Scallop. What could be easier? Fresh seafood, a few seasonings, a dash of oil, some simple greens or a garnish. And it was delicious. What is your favorite style of Sashimi or Crudo that you make at home?

Sunday, May 8- Mother’s Day Sparkling Brunch, Guy Savoy, Caesar’s Palace- New to the Uncork’d line-up this year was a sparkling champagne brunch at hosted by Hugh Garvey, Bon Appetit Features Editor and Chef Guy Savoy. (Last year the only Sunday event was a brunch with Robuchon at L’Atelier, which wasn’t staged this year). Another brunch was held by the “Two Hot Tamales” at Border Grill at Mandalay Bay. I was hoping for an exceptional experience at the Savoy Brunch—how often does one even have the opportunity to have brunch with a Michelin-Star French Chef? Unfortunately, lapses in service and a limited menu didn’t deliver on those expectations. I left Guy Savoy wondering why a restaurant of this caliber can’t deliver on basic customer service courtesies and a sense that this Sunday “Sparkling” Brunch didn’t sparkle. (See my report of dinner at Guy Savoy during last year’s “Vegas Uncork’d” here for a similar review of the lapses at this esteemed restaurant). I was curious about what type of brunch menu Chef Savoy would offer. I certainly didn’t expect a groaning board of hundreds of items ala the Las Vegas Buffet, and I knew Chef would serve some of his signature dishes, (Peas All Around and Artichoke Soup with Black Truffles and Brioche). But would we have a Michelin-Star dish of eggs? Would there be both breakfast and luncheon dishes? Would the magical Savoy dessert cart make an entrance into the dining room? My curiousness soon was tamed with the reality that there would be a limited selection of dishes, so limited that in fact they ran out of one of the main courses, (only to half-heartedly rescue more scraps from the kitchen when the diners complained). The service was far below the typically high standards of the Savoy team. Tables for 4 were crammed with 2 additional seats while a large table seating 12 sat empty at one end of the room. There was barely room to reach for bread without hitting the woman to my right. And then there was the service. After we sat down, our table of five waited, and waited, for a server to introduce themselves and set the stage for brunch. Not knowing if the food would be plated and served tableside or if we were supposed to go through the typical brunch routine of walking down the “line,” we flagged someone down who then instructed us to help ourselves. Had this been the buffet at Palace Station we would have known the drill, yet at Guy Savoy we expected the decorum and service to be more formal, not happenstance. Billed as a “Sparkling” brunch, the servers were the stingiest in Las Vegas-limiting us to a mere one glass of champagne before we sat down at the table. (And the bubbly didn’t flow once we were seated). I had to ask for a second glass of white wine twice, only to have the wine poured when a wine steward passed by, (seemingly unaware that I had asked someone, anyone, for another glass of wine). In a Michelin-recognized restaurant, utensils are quietly replaced at the end of each course, yet on this Sunday, forks, spoons and knives weren’t replaced unless one asked or if our server happened to be at the table when our plate was cleared. (After the clean fork I requested didn’t arrive, I ate the Veal dish with a spoon. In a five-star restaurant!). The craftsmanship of the dishes at Savoy are always perfect, the flavors pure yet understated. Savoy is a steady ship as it were. You won’t taste the influence of Asian flavors like you will when dining at Robuchon. And there isn’t the great pleasure of an exceptional dish followed by an acrid mess that you may encounter with Gagnaire. Menu- Cold Appetizers Tout Petis Pois “Peas All Around” (a signature dish) Fromage de Tete Head Cheese (A rare menu offering anywhere, and one of the best dishes of the Brunch) Terrine Campagnarde Country Style Pate Jambon Iberico Spanish Iberico de Bellota Ham (not nearly as ethereal as the Iberico pork served in three different treatments at Andres e’) Huitres en Nage Glacee Oysters in Ice Gelee (While not labeled, the little gems were either Belon oysters from France or the tiniest Kumamotos from the Pacific) Hot Appetizers Brouillade de Champignons Sauvages Wild Mushroom Brouillade Soupe d’Artichaut a la Truffe Noire, Brioche Feuillette aux Champignons et Truffes Artichoke and Black Truffle Soup, Toasted Mushroom Brioche, Black Truffle Butter (A Savoy signature and rightly so, no other “soup and sandwich” combination will ever compare to this rich, buttery, truffled creation) Selection de Fromages Affines Selection of Cheeses- (I suppose three cheeses, including a very good, creamy bleu, amounts to a “selection,” but we were expecting a few more choices) Entrée Poitrine de Veau Braisee, Legumes de Saison Braised Loin of Veal, Seasonal Vegetables (The biggest disappointment of the meal-the “veal eaten with a spoon.” On our first trip through the service line, we spotted a regal, golden loin of veal sitting on the carving board, a Chef slicing thick slices of the meat for each customer. Alas, we were on our first trip to the Cold Appetizer display and would return for the veal. And when we did return, “sorry, we’re out of veal.” What? A restaurant of this level, with a mere 50 customers for brunch and you didn’t plan for the veal? As the number of complaints started to go toward the kitchen, a Chef appeared with more veal. Yet it wasn’t the kingly roast and it wouldn’t be carved per order. It was scraps off the trimming of the loin, perfectly good meat indeed, it just wasn’t what should have been offered. Served in a copper sauté pan with the delicious braising liquor, it was tender enough to “eat with a spoon.”) Volaille de Bresse, Confite et Laquee, Chou Juste Poele, Jus aux Vinaigres Farm-Raised Chicken Laquee, Cabbage Ragout, Vinegar Jus (The potato puree served as an accompaniment to the Entrees was in fact, better than Robuchon’s famed potato dish. Savoy is less generous with the butter, resulting in a puree with a more true potato flavor). Salmon Toutes Saveurs Lightly Cooked Salmon with Herbs Desserts (While intricately prepared and delicious, the dessert offerings were tiny and the selection somewhat sparse given the occasion) Paris-Brest Clafoutis aux Fraises Strawberry Clafoutis (Strangely missing yet replaced with little jars of custard and caramel) Fondant au Chocolat Chocolate Fondant Macaroons (Another absent dessert offering, apparently replaced with a second chocolate item) One expects an exceptional, memorable experience when dining with Guy Savoy, especially when Chef is in the restaurant. After this private Sunday brunch in 2011 and the private Master Series Dinner in 2010, I’ve been less than impressed, underwhelmed is a more appropriate term. These events cater to serious diners-people who know cuisine and service. It can only be an indication of the lapses, however minor, that must go on every evening. The staff at Savoy needs to be more attentive to the details lest they be passed over in the challenging market of Las Vegas.

Last week I was in Las Vegas attending "Vegas Uncork'd," and had the opportunity to stop by Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Grill at the Cosmopolitan Hotel. We were invited to come for a taste of the offerings at Blue Ribbon in celebration of the re-opening of the restaurant. Last month Blue Ribbon had to shut down due to heavy water damage caused by a faulty fire suppresant system. Known in some circles in New York for the best fried chicken, I had to give the Las Vegas chicken a taste. Yes, it is very, very good--crispy on the outside, tender and moist meat and a scent and flavor of Japan from the seasonings. It got me thinking about looking at chicken wings in a new way-sans the sticky, sweet, tongue-numbing sauces that "Buffalo" style wings are known for. When I got home, I searched online for the Blue Ribbon recipe and only found a few general references. But I think I've come fairly close to replicating the orignal at home, a very "un-Buffalo" style wing if you will. I started by brining the wings overnight in a mixture based on the Thomas Keller recipe-salt, honey, bay leaf, lemon, thyme and water. (Beware of Keller's brine mix, it calls for a LOT of salt). The dredging mix for the wings calls for a combination of flour and Matzo meal. I combined equal parts of flour and Matzo, then added a few tablespoons of cornstarch for extra crunch. The seasonings call for paprika, cayenne, salt and Japanese togarashi pepper seasoning, (a combination of red pepper, roasted orange peel, yellow sesame seed, black sesame seed, Japanese pepper, sea weed and ginger). The togarashi is Blue Ribbon's "secret" seasoning. I also added some black pepper and smoked paprika for additional flavor. The wings were deep-fried in peanut oil at 375 for about 5 minutes, then served with a soy sauce, ginger, garlic and green onion dipping sauce. What are you favorite recipes for Chicken Wings "Beyond Buffalo?"

Saturday, May 7- “The Reign of Spain Part II”-The Avant-Garde e’ Jose Andres It was quite unplanned that I would find myself in the midst of a culinary transformation while I was in Las Vegas for Uncork'd. I knew I would have memorable meals and I would go home with new ideas, but I never expected what would happen on Saturday night. Through a twist of fate, I thank the French for leading me into the land of Oz. The Grand Gala Banquet, “Tocques off to Bocuse,” had been billed as the Grande Dame Saturday night event at Vegas Uncork’d 2011. Planned as a tribute to the French Master and attended by the honorable Monsieur Jerome Bocuse, every one of the great Chefs of Las Vegas, (and more), were preparing to cook in the style of Lyon. Gagnaire and Savoy would be there, and Ducasse and Robuchon were going to pair together to craft one of the opening courses. Unfortunately, the planners in charge of staging the events at Vegas Uncork’d are unaware of the current economic strife that has befallen the world for well over five years and they saw it proper to list the cost of one ticket at $395.00. Even serious food enthusiasts have a hard time swallowing the price of a $400 banquet-style dinner and the event was abruptly, (and without explanation), cancelled one week before the start of Uncork’d. I wasn’t interested in attending the outdoor barbecue hosted by Charlie Palmer, Rick Moonen and Ducasse at Mandalay Bay, (the “second string” event that was put in when the Bocuse dinner was cancelled), so I chose to go it alone on Saturday night. David, our waiter at Twist on Wednesday night, asked if I had ever dined with Jose Andres at his recently opened Jaleo restaurant in Las Vegas. No, this was my first trip to Las Vegas since The Cosmopolitan Hotel had opened so I hadn’t tried the dining rooms yet. “Have you been to minibar in Washington,, D.C.,” he inquired. "No, but I am familiar with Andres and his “molecular gastronomy” I told David. “No Mr. Ross, Chef Andres prefers to term his style “Avant-Garde,”-a marriage of tradition with the technical innovations afforded the “modern” kitchen." After further discussion about my adventures at Vegas Uncork’d, (and my sad tale of the cancellation of the Bocuse event on Saturday evening), David encouraged me to try the experience at e’ by Andres-a private room seating just 8 diners and located in the larger Jaleo restaurant. “It will be hard to get in,” David said. “They only have seatings on Saturdays at 5:30 and 8:00 and they are probably booked.” “My fiancee works there and I know the Manager, I will call them and see if they can accommodate you on Saturday night Mr. Ross. What seating would you prefer.” And so it goes, a charge of Gagnaire booked me the last remaining seat at e’ on Saturday night. A “Traditionalist” at heart, I have never completely understood why one would want to taste food that has been altered with chemicals and technology. Really, my only adventure into any creative expression outside of traditional circles was some 35 years ago when I did do a term paper on Jackson Pollock while studying art history at Oregon State. I was young and felt at the time that a piece on the crazed, paint-throwing style of the Abstract Expressionist savant would score a higher grade point than a boring treatise on Rembrandt. But in my heart, I was a traditionalist, I truly thought of Pollock as having been influenced by heavy drink and drug which in turn resulted in his penchant for throwing paint on canvas and calling it an inspiration, “art” as it were. (Today, an original work by Pollock is valued in the millions). But ignorance is no excuse for reality, and the chains that bind our tastes can only be released when we experience and savor the art created by those whom we mis-interpret. One must go through a somewhat lengthy process to be “accepted” at Andres e’ table. You cannot simply call and make a reservation, you can’t book a table online. No, you must first complete an application, listing your personal information and completing a checklist, (notating if you have any food allergies for example), and commit to the rules of the house, (including the fact that no “moving” pictures, cell phones or other electronic devices are allowed). The application is then sent back to the restaurant, and after you have passed the screening process, (and committed $250 per person to your credit card), you receive notification that your reservation has been completed. e’ is obviously the provenance of those who are committed and aware of the experience that awaits. You enter e’ through a discreet, hidden door located off the end of the bar at Jaleo restaurant, (and just off from what must be the largest indoor “paella pit,” in America). You are transported into a different world--a small room with a mystical atmosphere that is part library, part laboratory, part stage—walls lined with wooden library card boxes, a ladder to nowhere, porcelain dolls, string puppets and sequined shoes, (seemingly out of a “Halloween” movie), garnish the walls. In the center of the room is a small, horsehoe-shaped bar with 8 comfortable stools that border the preparation table. Literally inches away are the artist’s tools-tweezers, tiny eye droppers, glass dishes holding unrecognizable ingredients. At the rear, heavy red curtains open to reveal a small laboratory of glass shelves lined with serving dishes, hand-painted lacquer boxes and clay “hands” apparently taken off mannequins. To the right, the “stage” door through which 3 Chefs enter, followed by 2 servers who will choreograph the service. (The head Chef, a young man from Puerto Rico, is one of only 3 Chefs at Jaleo Las Vegas who has been selected and trained by Andres to perform the e’ experience). I had packed my requisite little black book and small Canon digital camera having every intent of taking photos, (still photos are discreetly allowed), and recording every detail of the meal so that I could report back to my friends at eGullet. I wanted to present the intricate details of the preparations-the minutiae at the hands of the technicians-so that I could prove, (in my mind), that a Traditionalist could be converted. As I settled in with a glass of Spanish Cava, I sensed that in order to experience that truth of the evening I would have to place the book and camera to the side. Our group of 8 diners included a couple from San Diego, two gentlemen college friends, (one from New York, one from San Francisco), myself, and a family of three from Japan. As we settled in with glasses of Spanish Cava and waited for the show to begin, I learned that two of the diners have ordered Nathan’s “Modernist Cuisine,” and are avid followers of the movement. Menu- Cocktail “Gin and Tonic” Spanish “Clavel” (“Carnation” of Iberico Ham) Beet Jewelry Caramelized Pork Rinds Apple “Brazo de Gitano” Crispy Chicen Skin in Escabeche Jose “Taco” & Artichoke with Caviar Bocata de “Calamares” Cocktail “Sandria” Ajo Blanco Maine Lobster with Citrus and Jasmine Chickpea Stew with Iberico Ham “Catch” of the Day Halibut Rosemary Wild Mushrooms en Papilotte Secreto of Iberico Pork Orange Pith Puree “La Serena” Frozen Apricot Coulant Apples and Red Wine “Fredy Giradet” 25 Second Bizcocho Fizzy “Paper” Chocolate Tiny little “apples” were created in front of us, applauding the work of the great Swiss Chef Fredy Giradet while crafting the fruit using a technique I had never witnessed. Globes of “caviar” jelly and emulsions from citrus pith (the lowly part of the peel that is usually relegated to the trash bin), appeared without effort. The Iberico pig blessed us with paper-thin, crispy ham, succulent, smoked belly and lush, roasted shoulder. Every dish was a revelation, the flavors clean, fresh and pure. The "cocktails," wines and beer served with each course were perfect partners to the flavors in the dishes. Chef Andres was in Las Vegas that night, yet he was busy attending to other work and not in the house of e'. (He would receive the James Beard Award a mere two days later in New York). However, his cast of artists clearly believe his mission and they performed without a flaw. Through circumstances I hadn’t imagined when I arrived in Las Vegas, I found a seat at the table at e’. My tastes had been enlightened through the technology of modern science in the creative hands of the Avant-Garde. Culinary ephiphanies are life-changing moments--an awakening really. And I know now that while my “Traditions” live on, the artistry and technology of “Modern” cuisine will carry me forward.