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Everything posted by Kerry Beal
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I suspect the really big figures would be a combination of solid and hollow in parts - perhaps even with some non food structure underneath, but I'm not entirely certain. Meat cones were in a bamboo or banana leaf disposable package. I think you'd just walk along and munch on it - at least that's what I'd do! Not sure how that price compared to the by the kilo price. Per kg price differed greatly depending on the age of the ham and it's provenance.
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Fell asleep trying to post those pictures last night - so didn't get to it until this morning. Lunch yesterday at Crusto in Barcelona. Dome du Marais for dinner. Campari and juice. Kir royale Jerusalem artichoke puree. Salmon with Forbidden Rice for Jess. Risotto for me. Shared mille feuille with strawberries.
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Woke up in Spain this morning - going to bed in Paris again very shortly. Feeling a bit bagged. We only walked 24,080 steps today (10.69 miles) according to my Fitbit. The first thing we hit was the food market in Barcelona. Note the Dunkin Donuts just outside the gate. Got some Frito Mixto for our breakfast along with a piece of tortilla with potatoes. Caught a picture of a lady making the bread with tomato. After leaving the market we set off for some candy/chocolate stores and pastry shops. This one had the traditional panned chocolate almonds. Marcona almonds caramelized (but not roasted), panned in white chocolate and rolled in sweetened cocoa. A walk down a little alley found these lovely meat cones and the realization that the obsession with the american old west is still alive and well in Europe. Escribe - a very interesting chocolate and pastry shop seems to have a few chocolate statues. We stopped for a tea infusion (this one called Lemon Pie) and Jess had an apple tart. Stopped for some hard torrone at his shop. Terrible picture - but we ran across two japanese automats with the food circling on conveyors.
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If you use golden syrup - it's still glucose and fructose - but perhaps you don't need to label it that way?
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24,158 steps today according to my fitbit - hence our collapse after drinks and tapas. We had planned to head to the beach for paella however we are exhausted and we see that is it pouring rain outside - so all is well as we relax in our room. Tapas and a glass of rioja at Tapas 24. Olives. Scale set up beside the Berkel to control the Iberico Ham. Iberico ham and bread with tomato. Papas bravas Croquettes Potatoes with chorizo and egg - thought we were getting something more like a frittata - but this deluxe version of eggs and chips was great. Meats with pasta. Here is what we picked up at the Turrón place.
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Lunch at Suculent Wonderful olives. Brandade. Shrimp ceviche - absolutely perfect. Bread with tomato. Grilled octopus with chickpeas. Steak tartare with roasted bone marrow. Two of these great sinks in the bathroom. On our travels we saw parrots eating the bread people throw for them and oranges that are windfalls. I've seen lots of gargoyles - but this was my first cowgoyle.
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At the market this morning we saw some interesting things - this is a copper candy pan inside a chamber that keeps it hot for making praline nuts. If you look carefully you can see an alembic still on the left side of her display table. She sells essential oils and such. Cheesecakes. Tarts made with puff pastry. Chicherron. Orange rind covered in a nice dark chocolate - enjoying a piece right now. He also makes 'truffles' with chocolate, sugar and olive oil rolled in cocoa powder. Spreadable sausage. Paella will be happening later in the day. One of Jess's favourites, almond paste around dried fruit and rolled in roasted pine nuts. Hofman bakery - Jess got a flavoured croissant and I tried the Kouign aman. Nougat joint - the story of our lives today was to show up to shops that were closed, justing closing or not open yet. The lady in this one was not yet ready to receive customers and made no bones about it. So she returned later. Wookie Cookies. These little delights - no name for them but they are a nice crispy biscuit with almonds attached, dipped in dark chocolate. Kronuts! There was even a bit of a lineup just like the real thing. On the way to lunch we passed this Iberico ham seller. Managed to get a little taste of a nice soft, 2 year aged leg. A bar that sells some candy - to differentiate from a lot of other shops that sell pastry, chocolate and also sell liquor. Had to drop around to Oriol Balanguer's shop that sells chocolate - was quite facinated by his payment system. If you are paying cash - then you put the bills and coins in and it returns change to you. Guess it keeps the staff honest. Tried two chocolates - a sweet corn which tasted like peanut and might just have been but was rather nice - and an orange that didn't have much orange flavour and had an extremely thick bottom.
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I have Alleguede's wife Jess with me - she speaks both french and spanish (not so much Catalan - but that's not causing a huge issue). She was raised in the south of France near the Spanish border and spent a lot of time in this area over the years. She has been the only reason I can get to all these places successfully - I would be totally lost here without her. In fact she is the one who determined all the places we needed to see - with input from her hubby who keeps sending along new suggestions. Well I'm not sure if they were supposed to - but I kept mine!
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What looks like a white tablecloth is actually a piece of white leather so it cleans up well after. I picked the crawfish with my fingers, sucked every little bit of goodness out of them and completely covered my fingers with the onion and sherry sauce that they came buried in (which I also sucked off my fingers). Cleaning my hands meant that I completely fouled their white cloth napkin - so much so that I didn't want it back on my lap for dessert.
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So tonight we are in Barcelona. We had thought to pop down to Aix en Provence after I discharged my students to explore a callison producer however that would have cost somewhere in the region of €1000 so we thought perhaps heading to Spain to check out torrone production might be more sensible. Vivanda. House made vermouth Pan con coca y tomate Crawfish for me Tuna tartar for Jess Tarte tatin Pannacotta with bitter orange marmalade
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It was our great pleasure to have lunch with jmacnaughtan and his wife today at Les Climates - a burgundian restaurant. I had presumed upon James to take delivery for me of a large order of IBC Power Flowers which are concentrated colouring for chocolate. The food was fabulous, the wines excellent and the company stellar. Gougères and palmier as amuse bouche A nice Crémant The burgundy to accompany the main course Snails Dressed with their sauce Lamb, gnocchi with veg Sole for one diner After's were cheese plate or Rhubarb Couple of different Chartreuse - yellow and the VEP Mignardise
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Yeah - won't be happy with the ones at home. Cake toppings have progressed indeed!
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A more 'old fashioned' appearing store - but had a lovely pink peppercorn ganache that I was quite taken with. We have been invited back for a tour of the manufacturing area on Tuesday. More things seen in our wanderings this morning. What happens to all those poor legless frogs.
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Breakfast provided by the hotel. I'm not going to be happy with the baguette when I get home I know!
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Here are the eggs gifted to us by Edwin of Edwart. It was late while I was posting last night - apparently I reposted a picture of a shelf of books rather than this!
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Lunch today - Foie on Pain d'Epice for me Cheese plate for Jess Sorbets for both Dinner was - Kir Royale for Jess, Campari and grapefruit for me. Moule frites for me Pasta with chicken for Jess Then we went and enjoyed tea and dessert at the Plaza Athenee. A bit posh - we stopped short of getting a selfie with the waiter who felt the necessity to explain where Ceylon was located.
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Libraire Gourmande - source of all cookery books - this is some of the english language books. Looks like they've got just about everything covered cake topper wise. We saw this Pacojet wanna be at Mora - apparently it's been there a long time - price would be negotiable - but power is 220 unfortunately. Sugar sculptures at Deco Relief. Bumblebee made from two half spheres. Another visit to Edwart - the second of their three locations - this time we had the opportunity to meet Edwin the other owner. He makes the sculptures. I was very excited by the bonbons these guys are making. Heads and tails above the rest. We had a long chat - and he gifted us with a couple of his eggs left over from easter. Art outside a restaurant.
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While I don't think it would be appropriate for me to share here all the info that the students learned at this course - I would like to show a few pictures of the ganache mixing method that Valrhona is now promoting. When you look at the recipes we were given - most actually describe the 'old' way of doing it (pouring the hot cream over the callets) - but all the ganaches were made using the new method this course. The claim is that you get a much more elastic ganache and that it will have better properties and a longer shelf life. As mentioned above I will test that when I get home. We have discussed this method before - link - and clearly it caused some differences of opinion. So essentially what is being done is to add the cream in about 5 additions - in the initial stages the cocoa butter separates from the mass and forms a shiny surface. Friction is applied to help allow the proteins in the chocolate to form the stretchy matrices that give the ganache it's flexibility. Friction can be applied in the form of elbow grease or using an immersion blender. Room temperature butter is added with an immersion blender when the ganache is sufficiently cool so that it's emulsion is not broken.
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I hope to test the theory that the weird mixing method of ganache being promoted by Valrhona actually reduces the water activity of the product.
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Dinner this evening - again at Cafe Mucha. Needed a bit of wine tonight. Scallops for me. Soup and salad for Mary Grace. Bread - but of course! Cake with creme anglaise.
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Another Patric Roger store with sculptures made from the original chocolate models. Sadly pictures of the front of these elephants didn't turn out well - so elephant asses are all you get!
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Ok - had about 50 pictures up here - answered a PM - 50 pictures gone. WIll upload in smaller chunks. So on our return to Paris - we went in two vans - to the antlier of Alan Ducasse and to the production facility of Jacque Genin Two pictures taken to make John DePaula nostalgic.
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I'm back! Will post more later tonight - but now just happy to be in contact again.
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Ah - well it's feasting days and fasting days (not totally fasting) - it's hard to do the fasting days in France! I'm not a coffee drinker - but I do drink gallons of tea in a day. So it's challenging to change from my orange pekoe to something like Rooibus. You are allowed caffeine between 3 and 5 pm - but invariably I'm not near my tea pot at that time and feel deprived.
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Yup - I've done it about 3 times now - gone are the days of barfing in the bidet at 3am with a nasty headache. I was fine the day of arrival and woke up the next morning still fine. I'm going to endeavour to do it again for the return flight - I've had problems sticking to that before - but I suspect the short term pain will result in long term gain in the westerly direction as well.
