ronnie_suburban
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Posts posted by ronnie_suburban
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Fired up by gmi3804's post on this thread, I decided to check out Marisa's Pizza which is only a short distance from my house. I'd also recently finished reading Peter Reinhart's American Pie and I was feeling a wee bit of pie envy when I saw gmi's coincidentally-timed post. I'd already decided that I needed to turn over every stone I could in searching for excellent, thin-crust pie in the area and Marisa's seemed like a good place to start. As a native of the Chicago area, I recognized full-well that thin crust is the red-headed step child of the Chicago pizza scene.
Located in the Sanders Court strip mall (Dundee and Sanders) is the unassuming Marisa's. From the outside, it looks like any other Chicagoland pizza joint but the reality of Marisa's was a surprising departure. As gmi described, it is a deep store front with a few tables up front and several more along one wall, stretching all the way to the very back of the restaurant.
I've now been to Marisa's twice. The first time, a late Saturday afternoon, we ordered slices...mine was pepperoni, wife's was sausage. Both were really great. In both cases, the crust was thin and very crispy. The ratio of sauce, cheese and toppings was well-balanced and we enjoyed the slices so much that we ordered and split a 3rd slice, cheese. Wow! There are only 2 other makes of Chicago thin crust pizza which I can remember liking as much as this--Barnaby's (admittedly a novelty but a time-honored tradition in my world) and Lou Malnati's whose thin crust pies have been essentially obscured forever by the legendary deep dish pies for which they are famous.
I chatted with Mike, the owner, who is a very personable guy. He used to be in advertising sales and bought the 15-year old Marisa's from the previous owner about 2 1/2 years ago. After surviving a slew of corporate buy-outs, he'd decided to go into business for himself--the pizza business. He encouraged me to come back for a whole pie, boasting that it was "10 times better" than the slices we'd just snarfed down. He didn't need to say a word. I was already planning my return and thinking which pies I'd order on my next visit.
Flash forward to the following Wednesday and the 3 of us (my son included this time) pull up to Marisa's. After 4 days of deliberating, eating a few other not-so-memorable pies from other joints and even making my own pizzas in the oven and on the grill, we decided on a large sausage pie and a medium pepperoni pie. After about 10 minutes Mike came to our table with Pie #1, Sausage. Wow! Absolutely wonderful pizza. Again, the sauce-cheese-topping ratio was perfect and the ingredients all tasted splendid. Aromatic and spicy sausage, rich and flavorful sauce (which was herbacious and not sweet) and sweet, tender and slightly salty mozzarella applied with deft judgment.
But here is the thing that sets Marisa's apart...the crust. It was perfection. Crispy on the exterior, chewy on the interior and with a slight tangyness, the crust was absolutely compelling. Unlike Malnati's, this is not a short crust at all. It's cracker-like. If there is oil in it, there isn't very much of it. Also, like a good sourdough bread, the flavor was in the chew, not the initial bite. Even without sauce, toppings or cheese, you'd want to eat this crust.
The edge, the cornicione, was golden brown, slightly blistered, chewy and crunchy. The section under the toppings was ultra-thin and quite crisp. When held by the cornicione, the large slices of pizza barely drooped at their tips. Mike brought out the second pie, Pepperoni. Same as the first but now the roof of my mouth was completely burned because, quite frankly, I could not...no, I would not wait for that first pie to cool. I had to eat it NOW. And I did.
We made it through about half of each pie and took the rest home in a box.Later that evening. I was convinced that I'd just gotten it wrong. "No way" I said to myself. "It couldn't have been that good. I must have just been really hungry." Perhaps, I thought, my enthusiasm, my intense desire for great, thin crust pizza had clouded my judgment. I tossed a leftover piece into the toaster oven and crisped it up for about 3 minutes. When I took it out of the oven and ate it, I again couldn't believe how flavorful and perfect every element of this pie was--and this was now as a leftover. Upon further review, Marisa's thin crust was every bit as good as I thought it was. This is great pizza. Woo Hoo!
I haven't been back since, but it's only been 5 days.
I do plan on returning very soon but there are so many pizzas and so little time to try them all. I've been on a bit of a pizza kick lately and turned out some terrific pies at home over the past several days as well. But, there is always Marisa's when I need someone, a veritable pizzaiolo, to lay that pie down for me.And don't let the Vienna Beef sign in the front window fool you. This place is the real deal and you'll be absolutely hard-pressed to find a better thin crust pie in the northern suburbs. I look forward to returning and checking out the sicilian style as well as the white pizza. If they're half as good as the products I've already tasted, I may actually be left speechless.
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Marisa's Pizza
4175 Dundee Road
Northbrook, IL
(847) 564-3010
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Great interview Trish--fantastic questions, as usual. And I love the photos too, Chris. Very nicely done.
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In what universe to Flay and Morimoto beat Batali and Sakai!!!!! Seriously.....
SML
It's not just a case of home kitchen advantage?
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I'm with ExtraMSG and Mags here. While I thought Sakai's plating was marginally better, I was much more compelled by what Flay cooked. I watched the episode already knowing the outcome and when I saw the trout ice cream I said to my wife "that's how he lost it, the ice cream." It may have been original but it didn't look very appetizing.
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it is kinda funny, cause he told me that the Trout Ice Cream is something he plans on adding at his place in Japan!
...and it'll probably play there. I'm just a rube out here in flyover country
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I don't know that there's much to be gained by trying to analyze the motivations of people who are, apparently, semi-professional pains in the ass.
LOL! Human beings are irrational. Accept it and move on.
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I'm with ExtraMSG and Mags here. While I thought Sakai's plating was marginally better, I was much more compelled by what Flay cooked. I watched the episode already knowing the outcome and when I saw the trout ice cream I said to my wife "that's how he lost it, the ice cream." It may have been original but it didn't look very appetizing.
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Bourdain (along with Meatball Guy, Eric Ripert, the staff et al) do not get paid and are not required to because the show is produced by the NEWS department of NBC; everyone signs a release so that NBC can use the footage to whatever end they like ad infinitum without incurring costs like residuals or the likeSparkitus,
That's interesting...the other day Donald Trump said he was going to get a lot more money for another season of 'The Apprentice.' So is Apprentice paid and Rocco's not paid?
When I interviewed Topher and Tad from Season 1 of The Restaurant they also told me that none of them were paid by NBC....
This 'Roccette-Chowderhead' nickname thing is creeping me out... I have visions now of Rocco dressed up like a chorine in a kickline.... and Jeffrey Chodorow wearing a hat (like a cheesehead) only of a bowl of Clam Chowder... Manhattan style of course....
There's a difference between getting paid and getting paid as an actor. If "The Apprentice" is produced by NBC News, Trump is free to work out whatever kind of contract he likes with NBC, as are the other people who appear on the show. If it's being produced as a dramatic series, the terms of the contracts would be governed by union regulations (meaning Trump would be deamed to be an actor), which include required residual payments, etc.
It's no wonder the networks love "reality" TV. No SAG to deal with, no AFTRA, probably no Writers' Guild. They've just removed a couple of layers of salaries.
Trump is also Executive Producer of The Apprentice, so he stands to reap some of the financial rewards it yields on that basis as well.
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Seems like F&W has morphed into a lousy imitation of Saveur over the last year or so.
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Do any of you, if you haven't bought a cookbook in a while, get an "itch" to buy a new one? I was reading over this thread, and I never saw anything like this mentioned.
I suspect it's never been mentioned because it's probably the norm around these here parts. My kind of folks...
Exactly. I think it comes with the territory.
I have an update too Maggie. I've added another 36 since my last report; including 17 titles from the Time-Life The Good Cook series.
These books, while over 20 years old are in great condition and very current in their scope. What a pleasure it is to look through them. I found them at a used bookstore next door to a kiddie birthday party my son attended. It was the best kiddie birthday party I've ever been to. =R=
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My 3 year old son has "play dates" with a friend and his parents come from Mexico. When I kiss his head I can smell corn oil after he comes home. I have this incredibly urge to find some salsa and pour it all over his head. LMAO!
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Count me in as one of the 12. I'm proud to stand with each and every one of you.
LMAO! There are a lot more than 12 of you.
Marketing aside, diversity (of backgrounds, interests, preferences, etc.) is something to be appreciated, not lamented.
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I'm less concerned about the label issues than the idea that they (the winemakers) may have to compromise their craft to "make" a wine low-carb.
This, I agree with completely. A wine that has been 'adjusted' to fit unnatural marketing parameters is not one I'd be interested in trying.
What I find sad is the state of the world in which we live that manipulates the consumer's mind into believing what is printed on a label.Same as it ever was. I'm not bothered by this as long as the claims made on those labels are true.
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Not particularly. Most white wines are, by their nature, low-carb to begin with. And red wine makers have been touting its health benefits for years. Marketing is marketing. I'm actually encouraged that folks with restricted diets are being accomodated. That's nothing to be sad about IMO.
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While I can understand, on a personal level, why Chodorow hadn't talked to Rocco "in months" (who'd want to?) from a professional perspective it was not a very responsible choice. Their meeting should have come much earlier--when the losses started, not after they'd grown to over half a million dollars.
OTOH, Chodorow seemed almost boastful about it. Perhaps he knew full well about the mounting losses and chose to not intervene in the hopes of leveraging what he considered to be Rocco's inevitable failure.
The biggest problem with speculating (although it is fun
) is that we don't know how much Burnett is holding back nor how accurate he is in the re-telling. One good example of this 'veracity parlax' is the conversation here about how crowded the restaurant really was...or wasn't. While I believe that both Rocco and Chodorow are both to blame for its failing, the busy-ness (or lack thereof) of the restaurant has some relevance as to which of them is more responsible for it.=R=
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Boy, I really wanted to like Rocco, but last night he came off as an ass. That book signing escapade with him coming on to that Jennifer girl was sick making. No wonder his girlfriend dumped him. Rocco, I have news for you, you aren't as hot as you think you are. Heck, he doesn't even look like he showers.
The guy has lost it. There is nothing wrong with selling out—as he says he has done in the New York article—if that's your goal, which it is with him. But what makes me cringe with embarrassment is that he's constantly pouting and giving the "poor me" victim speech everywhere. You can't have your meatballs and eat them too, Rocco.
I attended the taping of Lynne Rossetto Kasper's radio show last fall that featured Gourmet's special culinary NY weekend. Rocco was a guest and was trying to suck sympathy from the audience. He ACTUALLY said something like, "Don't you feel bad for me?" Uh, no. He shilled himself, whored his mother (who I genuinely think wants the place to succeed), slithered up to anything in a skirt, and he wonders why people don't like him. He comes across as a petulant, spoiled child who can't get his way. His absolutely voracious need for the spotlight and fame is overriding all common sense (and baser urges, as seen in the Jennifer section. Ick!). Too bad he'll end up being a humorous footnote in the burgeoning chef-as-celebrity phenomenon—he is a talented chef. Or was.
Yep, and not an ounce of charm (left?) in the guy.
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I mean... locals sit at a bar. Tourists are the ones swamping the restaurant itself. The locals are either disgusted with the place, or at best just don't CARE about it.
LMAO
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Double boiler's too big for making small batches.
You make batches smaller than 3 yolks? Sheesh, 3 yolks is barely enough for 2 people, if you take into account the amount I steal to eat straight with a spoon. Actually, though, my mother's db (which I hate, because unlike mine it ain't transparent, but that's beside the point) would be small enough for a single-yolker - smaller than that, you're on your own.
LOL, my double boiler is probably a little bigger than either yours or your mother's, but on top of that, I've actually been making 2-yolk batches because we tend to eat however much I make, so the less I make the better.
My bowl method is essentially a mini double boiler...a 1-quart, copperbottom saucepan and a little pyrex bowl...it's actually a very cute set-up. I even have a little whisk too =R=
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Some people cook their hollandaise over direct heat but in this area, I am a huge wuss.
Damn right! Me too. But you guys make it sound so much more complicated than it needs to be. Why all the pre-melting of butter? And what's with all this using-a-bowl-like-a-double-boiler business? Why not just use a double boiler? That's how my mother taught me to do it, and how we both always did it (until I discovered the blender method, which occasionally tempts me...). I use a pyrex db for this and for creme anglaise and have never had a problem with either (except once at high altitude and once in extreme low-pressure system... but those were easily resolved and are stories for another day). If memory serves the proportion is about 3 yolks to 1/4 lb (1 stick) butter - I cut the stick in 3 pieces; put the yolks in top of db over gently slightly-more-than-simmering water, stir 'em together till smooth; put in first chunk of butter and impale it on tip of fork, then just stir and stir with the butter until it's melted away; same with other two chunks; when the last of the butter has melted, voila, there's your emulsion - just add lemon juice and adjust seasoning, stir a little more, it's done.
Double boiler's too big for making small batches.
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Some people cook their hollandaise over direct heat but in this area, I am a huge wuss.
I've only succeeded at this once. My other attempts all ended in failure.
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Hollandaise sauce. I cannot master this simple, but delicious concoction. I am a self-proclaimed good cook, but I more often than not get scrambled eggs or egg juice. What must I do?
After the butter has melted, whisk it (while adding it slowly) into the egg yolks, off the heat. Do not add the yolks to the melted butter. After the yolks and butter have been homogenized, away from the heat source, add lemon juice (and salt and cayenne too if you like) to taste and then move the mixture (in a properly-sized bowl) back onto a pan of simmering water (effectively now a double boiler) and whisk it until it thickens, removing the bowl from the heat occasionally. The sauce will break when it gets too hot, so be careful not to leave the sauce on the double boiler indefinitely.
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I completely agree about the onions. I generally use 1 medium onion for every two thighs because they do shrink down quite a bit.
Hey Ronnie--I wanted to ask:
I looove onions. Do you think that, if I used a generic onion like "Spanish onions" (which are what I usually pick up in the grocery store), I could use two onions for two thighs of chickeny chicken? I only plan to make two thighs at a time (small pot), and I'd like a lot of sauce.
Also, when you brown the thighs in the skillet before braising them, do you brown them in olive oil, or do you just toss the thighs in dry? I think there was some talk about paprika possibly burning, so I wanted to know if you used fat to brown them.
(I also have never really "browned" anything before, so I don't even know if the process involves fat).
One last general question for the board: where's the best place to buy paprika in NYC? Kalustyan's? Are there secret spice shops that people frequent?
Hi Pumpkin Lover,
I think you could use as many or as few onions as you'd like. Generally speaking, the more onions you use, the more liquid will be produced. If there is too much liquid, it may not be very flavorful so, as Fifi posted above, you may want to reduce that liquid down after the thighs have cooked, if it is not 'concentrated' enough for your liking.
As for fat and browning...I generally use boneless, skinless thighs and too much browning isn't really a good thing because there is no skin and the flesh becomes dried out and unappetizing if it is too browned. I'd start with either olive oil or butter--whichever you prefer--over low heat and just brown the thighs slightly on both sides (2-3 minutes maybe) before adding the onions. I'm sure that browning the thighs will add some flavor but I don't think it's as vital in this dish as it with shanks, pot roast, etc. Also, thighs are pretty fatty (even when skinless) so adding too much additional fat can detract from the dish.
Lastly, I cannot tell you where in NYC to source good paprika, but Penzey's web site is a great source for paprika and other spices too. I like that the products shipped from their website are cyrovac'd and arrive in very fresh condition. But, there obviously have to be great places in NYC to get these types of products. But hell, even the Szeged product (pictured up-thread) which I bought at the regular grocery, produces a great end product. As I mentioned before, it was the paprika I used when I 'discovered' chickeny chicken. That said, if I had to choose one paprika, it would be hard not to choose the Penzey's sweet hungarian. I've found that it's really become my #1 lately.
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Just back from Phoenix and I wish I'd read Peter Reinhart's American Pie before my return. If I had there is no way I would have missed this place.
It's not that don't trust the opinions here, there just weren't enough of them on this thread to push me to try it out. Reinhart speaks so glowingly of the place that I'm downright pissed I missed it 
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I'm sorry to hear that. The Phoenix contingent here is very small, so getting two or three people raving about a place is often times a majority.
I will add my most recent raves about the place. Went a few weeks ago with some folks from a different forum, we ordered all of the pizzas (except the cheeseless tomato one) plus an antipasto platter and spiedini (prosciutto wrapped around fontina cheese on a skewer and baked). The Wiseguy (salami and olive) and the arugula pizza were particularly good that evening. The spiedini wasn't quite as amazing as it has been in the past (when the cheese is just melty, it's amazing) but still good. The antipasto plate was filled with wonderful perfectly-cooked veggies as usual, plus a terrific spicy broccoli gratin. Dessert was a blood orange Italian ice that was the perfect balance between sweet and tart.
Yeah, I'm beginning to understand that there are a relatively low number of Phoenix area posters here and I should have taken that into account. But also, if I'd bothered to notice it was my friend and fellow heartlander Sweet Willie, who opened this thread, that would have been enough for me to give it a whirl since I often agree with his assessments of places. I was literally on the plane leaving Phoenix when I read the opening chapter of Reinhart's American Pie which pretty much pegs Bianco as the standard by which he will measure all the other pizzas he "hunts" in the book. "Turn this plane around right now!"
And I'm still kicking myself over missing this. I may have to go back to spring training next year just to settle this unresolved issue.
Thanks, creepygirl, for taking the time to post about your experiences there. It's very much appreciated.
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Awesome pics! It must have been an absolutely delightful weekend. Thanks again Jen
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How does this compare with Pho 777, Pho 888 and Pho 999?
Very cool that you found a place you can lean on.
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"The Restaurant" Reality Show Season 2
in Food Media & Arts
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It occured to me while watching last night's installment, that Rocco isn't somewhat clueless, he's completely clueless.
Seriously, does he have no idea that restaurants are supposed to make money? Or is he just playing dumb? At one point, the opening voiceover says "Rocco fought back." How so, by running out of the restaurant like a child and refusing to ever face P/L reality? Avoidance is not fighting back, it's...well, avoidance. 
As for the intern, I will not accept the "I was taken out of context" excuse from one more reality tv participant. He was such a stroke (and the interview with him at Salon.com confirms as much), he almost had me rooting for Captain Douchebag...almost.
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