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It is an amazing restaurant. I've only tried wine pairings a few times over the years and have never been overwhelmed at any place, at any price point. I've always done better choosing a half-bottle of white (if available) and a full bottle of red. My taste - my choices. It seems to work better.

However, he still can't help taking small shot at Bouley's personal problems. Also noticed how he mentions Bouley came by to say hello - what a nice touch for inclusion in the review.

What seems to be forgotten in this is salary. These "captains" do not make a liveable wage. They rely on tips, so the money they make in Saratoga represents a very large portion of their yearly income. It's similar to the Per Se situation. If they just added a "service charge" at $50 per table, maybe it would be easier to accept. However, the Saratoga Race meet is like no other in the country. It's a pure entertainment atmosphere. Tipping for a table there is the same as tipping for a good table at the shows in Atlantic City, Lake Tahoe or Las Vegas. And comparing it to the bribery of police officials is just a little over the top. Once again, the track is a big place with plenty of places to eat, drink and watch the races. If you don't want a table in those two areas, there are plenty of other places to choose that are "free."

"Demanding" is a tough word. No one ever demands - it's common practice. Anyone who has requested a table just knows - common knowledge.

There are a lot more than 20 tables - probably closer to 100 downstairs and 120 upstairs on three levels. ← At these numbers he wouldn't need to work more than 36 days per year ← You're right. But the money is split between several people. However, the upstairs Captain (his name was Duncan and has since passed) told me he made more money in the 24 days (the meet was shorter then) than the rest of the year combined - salary and all. That job and the Track Photographer are the highest paid at the track.

There are a lot more than 20 tables - probably closer to 100 downstairs and 120 upstairs on three levels.

That's true Doc, but remember this is Saratoga and the meet lasts just 36 days. It's really tht only time those people can make money. They don't get much in the way of tips during the Belmont and Aqueduct meets. Supply and demand. And no one forces them to tip. I've seen many people get a table without tipping - of course it's always near the rest rooms.

I have to respectfully disagree. I have never paid anything close to $100 per person and have always gotten a great table both upstairs and downstairs. Most of the time the going rate is somewhere between $20-40 a day (for a table, not a person) downstairs and $50 a day (for a table) upstairs. Weekends are a bit higher. The only day the $100 a person would come into play is Travers. And since NYRA raised admission this year, the crowd was smaller and tables went for less.

I have no idea, but I assume they get to keep these small amounts, as they are real gratuities. ← Hate to bother you again Sam, but does that mean (since the price has the 20% built-in) if you put an amount on the tip line (credit card), the waiters get to keep that? Or are we just talking cash? And finally, what happens when a customer pays in cash (probably 10% of the time) and leaves additional funds? Sam, I really don't expect you know - but just some thoughts running through my head. I'm sure Keller has it all figured out. Does anyone know if the French Laundry built their 19% into the overall prices?

According to a recent article in the Albany Times Union, a restaurant captain employed by the New York Racing Association was fired for accepting a tip (they called it a bribe) to seat a group of undercover state racing authority agents at the Saratoga Race Course. The long-time employee (I won't mention his name) was immediately fired and is facing bribery/extortion charges (never stick). The way this works: you visit the captain, tip him some money and he gets you a table for the day. At the table you can: watch the races, drink, have a harmless lunch, stay relatively comfortable and bet. I've been doing this since I was 18 years old and never saw a problem. It's similar to tipping the host or hostess for a "good" table at a fine restaurant. Did they force people to do it? - No. Would you get a table if you didn't? - On most days (but it wouldn't a great one). And they pooled the tips with other hosts/hostesses. Talk about setting a guy up - don't those people have anything better to do with their time? Guess I won't be "palming" anyone at Pe Se in the near future. Oh that's right, they already get 20% of the bill.

Thanks Bux - it was Claude.

Three questions: 1. Was wine and liquor raised by 20% as well? If so, does that mean a drink at the bar is now 20% more and the service charge applies there as well? 2. If everyone is paid a salary, does that mean if the 20% doesn't cover salaries, the restaurant will subsidize the rest? Conversely, if the service charge money is more than salaries, where does that go? 3. You mentioned what they don't do with "extra" money, but what do they do with it? Does it go into the "general fund." How do they monitor the cash tips that are given to waitstaff, bartenders, coat checkers, etc.? I very much like the idea of being paid a salary based on performance et al, at least it solves the incentive issues.

I was reading the October issue of Bon Appetit yesterday and there was a small mention that Troisgros was adding a new place to his restaurant empire. Is this the same person- a relative or just a coincidence?

Anthony Dias Blue does reports for CBS Radio and last week he spoke about tipping. Not to bore anyone with the details of the 15-20 percent rule he advocated, I will skip to the last line of his report. After suggesting the amount of the tip be directly related to the quality of service, he stated - but remember the tip is "still just a reward for good service." I find the term "reward" interesting. It certainly suggests something beyond a normal salary. While I have commended Keller for placing his staff on a salary based on the 20 percent service charge, I agree with Blue regarding the "reward" issue. It is still my belief that individual servers (or teams in certain restaurants), should keep anything they make above the average tip or service charge. This incentive could be the compromise to keep everyone happy.

As a real-life practical matter, I think this is impossible. ← Even involvement as a food writer, but anonymity as a restaurant reviewer?

But isn't it possible to achieve both anonymity and involvement. While I don't have a major problem with the anonymity issue, I think it serves a meaningful purpose. I was only half-joking in a earlier post when I described how it could be possible to achieve the above. Let's say the NY Times named you their chief critic (Congrats!) but it was announced that your name was Sue Smith. You could still mingle with your industry contacts and remain current within the industry while at the same time review restaurants under your secret identity. Yes, some people may eventually guess, but no one would be sure (except those you told and the paper). There would always be a level of doubt. Want proof? No one really knew who Deep Throat was until a few months ago. Pretty cool secret for 30 years.

The self-promotion aspect is major problem for critics. Yes, it must be terribly difficult to refuse to be interviewed as the top culinary expert in New York City, but at what price? I think you need to know the industry and the workings of a restaurant to write a meaningful review. Can someone achieve this in anonymity? Difficult, yes. Impossible, no. The real problems occur when critic(s) begin flaunting their personna. It may come to this - what's more important - the critic or the review? When the critic believes it's the former, then you wind up with major descriptions of bathrooms, rock music and lamps falling from tables. If it's the latter, that stuff would be anecdotal.

I have too, but I picked myself up from the sidewalk, wiped off the dirt and grease from my trousers and ate next door.

I would think that if a critic truly (and that's the key word) wanted to remain anonymous, it wouldn't be that difficult. First, when you take the job, write it under a pen name. Secondly, don't appear on television extolling the virtues of your "cuisinehood." Additionally, if you're writing the column under the name of Felicity St. James, don't do radio guest spots with a voice that's deeper than Bocelli, conversely if you're writing the column with the name Lionel Ingelstand, don't sound like Kate Winslet in heat. Finally, don't tell your friends, partners or live-ins - you know what big mouths they have. Now you have the best of both worlds - no one recognizes you and you can remain friends with the restaurant staff. You can be one of the regulars.

He could probably charge $250 and still be booked two months in advance. ← Why stop there. My serious guess is price won't/doesn't affect Per Se's business until it reaches $450- 500 per person plateau. With the clientele he's now attracting, a $1,000 per couple is insignificant. Most of his clients use that number as petty cash. Hey, at that point all staff members' salaries should be at six figures based on the service charge. How do I become a busser at Per Se?

Can someone explain why Bobby Flay is disliked so much? He has two very good NYC restaurants, his food is quite tasty, certainly paid his dues and his techniques are sound. Sure his personality is somewhat aggressive - but he's a born and bred New Yorker, what do you expect, Casper the friendly ghost? Something similar can be said for Emeril except his best places are in New Orleans (and hopefully will be back.) And he is a very nice fellow. PS - plus Bobby Flay is a Thoroughbred race fan - so how bad a person can he be?

I think I made that clear - it is a journalistic take off on a 1954 Supreme Court decision, hence the quotes.

I am going to Saratoga next weekend (actually for five days) and I was planning on eating there. Keep me informed, Doc. Thanks

Agreed. But personal value isn't the same as equal. I can take two opposed reviews and treat them equally, yet understand that I have agreed with one reviewer more often. Maybe it's just semantics, but I can assign equal status to reviews, yet at the same time realize I'm more likely to agree specifically with one.

Okay, I'll take the bait. ...Bottom line, I think each review or reviewer should be treated equally, until you make a decision for yourself. The majority isn't necessarily right, nor will the opinion(s) of other(s) match yours all of the time. If you don't treat reviews or reviewers equally, you will probably go into a place with pre-conceived concepts that will certainly cloud your judgement. ← Absolutely, and I took it that that was what he meant. When I read a review in a local neighborhood newspaper, or in Fodors or Frommers, I give it a different mental value than let's say some other source. But speaking for myself, at this point I've formed a weighted average (or something) in my mind that tells me how much to credit each source, and for me anyway I think I get a good picture of what the restaurant and food will be like. ← I can agree with that Mark. But there is a school of thought that will say Bob Smith's review is more credible and reliable that Fred Jones' before entering a restaurant. While I may agree with Bob 75 percent of the time and agree with Fred just 30 percent of the time, I don't give more credibility to one over the other. But I do understand that I'm more likely to agree with Bob, but I try to keep an open mind - thus allowing for the equality of their respective reviews. This is also works with chefs. I think Mesa Grill and Bolo are very good restaurants. Therefore, when Bobby Flay opened Bar Americain, I was anxious to try it based on my experiences with the other two. I walked into the place with a positive attitude and was very disappointed with the negative experience.