Jaymes

My mother wasn't much of a cook. My father was a wordly, excellent cook...raised in first the kitchens of the restaurants that his widowed mother owned and later as the stepson of a very wealthy man who traveled the world with his family in tow (and whom his mother had met in one of her restaurants when he walked in with a couple of dead 'coons he'd just shot and said, "Can anyone in here cook these things?" and she said, "I can cook any damn thing you can drag in."). But, Dad had to work, so the cooking was left to my mom who was studious in nature...always looking up some obscure subject in encyclopedia, and who hated being in the kitchen. She did the quickest, fastest, easiest thing... We got good food (and our love of cooking) from Dad, who spent the weekends in our kitchen, cooking, laughing, talking, teaching. (That had a rather unhappy, and unforeseen effect on my later life. I thought ALL husbands and fathers were great gourmet cooks who fixed marvelous meals on holidays and weekends, beginning with an elaborate Sunday brunch. Boy was I surprised when, in later years, my husband wouldn't lift a finger in the kitchen and got all pissy about it when I suggested he might consider it, just on Sunday mornings, to give me a break.) Also when I was a child, we, too, lived all over the world and somewhere where we lived (and I don't remember where) they made a potato salad with warm mashed potatoes. So, although I hate to admit this, you asked, and the truth is that when my mom wanted to serve potato salad with something, first she made up a big batch of instant mashed potatoes... then to it added Mayo, chopped hardboiled eggs, onions, pickle relish, celery, dash of Durkee's (she was, after all, originally a southern gal, and southern gals don't do much without tossing in a dash of Durkee's). So, I thought ALL potato salad was warm and mashed. Who knew? Of course, I think most food that you are consistantly fed as a child, as long as it is at least passably tasty, figures positively in your memory. I loved that salad as a kid. But, I sure don't make it that way any more

Sir... You did not answer the last part of his "question." Have you ever in your life enjoyed a taste of Basil Liqueur.... Or Creme de Menthe...in say, an occasional after-dinner Stinger?

There must surely be as many methods of making potato salads as there are cooks. I read somewhere that in order to make a "proper" potato salad, one must add the acid (lemon juice, vinegar, wine, cider, whatever) when the potatoes are hot, so they will absorb it. Another source said instead that one should immediately toss the hot potato chunks with olive or other oil, to coat them, thereby sealing them, and reducing the possibility of the pieces crumbling and disintegrating into mush. I'm sure every eGulleteer has plenty of recipes. Please share with me your favorites. I've got lots of houseguests coming this summer, and want to be prepared with fat bowls full of the delicious stuff.

In Alaska, where I lived for several years, halibut is extremely popular. In fact, most Alaskans, sheepishly and only when pressed on the subject, and almost to this exact wording say: "You know, I kind of hate to say this, but I really kind of think that I almost like halibut better than salmon." They believe they're being disloyal to their most famous and prized fish, so they have a hard time admitting their preferences. You cannot go anywhere in Alaska without finding halibut on the menu. At parties, there will be a whole one steamed or baked, served on a large platter, surrounded by lemon slices. You help yourself...tearing off bits with a fork and putting it on crackers. Of course, there is always an adjacent salmon prepared and served exactly the same way. I had a once had a friend tell me, while we were standing at a buffet table in front of these two big fish, "I am getting sick of being served fish every where I go. I'm starting to feel like someone's really big housecat." In restaurants, there is also always halibut...most often cut into chunks about 2" x 2", breaded and deep fried. Biting into one of those pieces of tender pure-white meat is like biting into a cloud.

For the admirer of Limoncello....there is a great recipe in the special "Mediterranean" issue of Bon Appetit. It's on newsstands now...pretty thing, turquoise border...photograph of "Spaghetti with Clams" on the cover. The recipe for Limoncello says that it is "quite easy" and it indeed appears to be. Beautiful, too, shining bright yellow in its clear bottle.

Or, sprinkle them lightly with a little liquid of some kind (I like apple cider or orange juice) and then seal them tightly in heavy-duty foil. Then reheat in either your smoker or oven, still wrapped in the foil. Either way's fine...doesn't much matter after they're already smoked. Actually, that's the way a lot of commercial BBQers do them anyway. It holds them indefinitely and keeps them from drying out.

Good "last minute" dessert for dinner party: Selection of liqueurs on silver tray... couple of scoops ice cream in individual glasses....brandy glasses, or saucer champagne, or red wine glasses, or whatever you've got. Pepperidge Farm rolled up cookies (can't remember name), or other cookies stuck in ice cream scoops, or lying on plate by stem of glass. Everyone helps themself, thereby helping host/hostess immeasurably.

Congratulations. I think it's wonderful to do something that most people are familiar with and enjoy, but to do it very, very well.

FIG PRESERVES..... And here's something I don't understand: In order to get good Fig Preserves, you have to have a relative or friend or neighbor who makes them. In my family, it was Aunt Melcina from Baton Rouge. Her husband, Uncle John, pruned the fig tree every year and one year he pruned it so hard it died. Aunt Melcina's friends and neighbors offered to give her figs from their own trees so she could keep making the preserves, but she refused. She wouldn't tell anybody how she made her preserves either. I think it was just out of pure-d-meanness, because she was so het up about that tree. A few years later, John died. And not long after that, Aunt Melcina died, too. The few jars that folks still had left became as precious as though they were filled with gold. Everybody squirreled them away and lied about having them. Once I found FOUR jars in my Aunt Stella Mae's pantry, hidden down under a bag of rice and I ratted her out to the rest of the family. She never forgave me. But here's my question: why can't you buy decent fig preserves commerically? Every other kind of preserve is there on the shelves to buy, but not good fig preserves. I've tried all the ones I can find, but they lack flavor and substance. I frankly just don't get it.

There is a reason why, in the Christian faith, disciples are asked to "break bread" with each other, and with the shepherd of the flock. Inviting someone else, particularly a stranger, to share your campfire, your table, is one of the highest, most noble, of human instincts. Sharing food is symbolic...a letting down of one's guard, of one's innate selfish nature, sharing sustinence, nourishment, replenishment of body, mind and soul. Also, in the bible story of the loaves and fishes, Jesus first created the food ("cooking" if you will), then fed the multitudes; all this to provide an allegory to the spiritual nourishment he was about to impart. And to satisfy their bodily hunger first, preparing the way for them to then reflect upon, and understand, their spiritual hunger. And there are the obvious implications in the Christian ritual of communion. Worshipers literally consume food and drink (bread and wine) to establish their "oneness" with the diety and with each other. The founder of Christianity (whomever you understand that to be) chose eating and drinking as the single most sacred act a believer can perform in order to become one in community with the church and with the Lord. Pretty profound.

That sounds just wonderful. Maybe I'll round up a brunch bunch right away just so I can try it. I mean, I couldn't eat an entire pan by myself. Could I? Thanks for the post!

"There is a Green Mesquite in Oak Hill, near HEB. To my taste it's okay, but far better is Donn's Texas Barbecue, hidden behind Albertson's. Gotta get my fat feel good factor! The meat falls off the ribs." As I recall, I went to Green Mesquite for the ribs. I thought they had a great texture and taste. I don't really like the texture of ribs as well when they "fall off the bones." Wasn't as happy with the Green Mesquite brisket, although frankly, even mediocre BBQ in Central Texas is so good. But, it's been eight years since I lived down there, and don't recall that Donn's was there then. "Agree on Thai Spice (Cap Tex) - closest thing here to eating in Thailand, although the Thai Noodle House (?) behind a gas station on the Drag is pretty authentic (within the limits of its menu). All is needs is an open drain nearby for olfactory realism." And for the real Asian restroom experience, too. The North Lamar area is where by far the largest number of Asians in Austin live, so there are many good Oriental-influenced businesses there (concentrated nearby the N. Lamar/183 intersection). If you like noodles, do try that Kim Phung Noodle House that I mentioned earlier. As for the Cipollina "deli" thing, you are correct....that's what they call themselves. They do have stuff to take out, and it's their business, so I guess they can call their little selves whatever they darn well please; but to me, it's misleading. However, that is because of my expectations, which, of course, they are not responsible for. But that still leaves me where I started...wishing I could find a good "Italian deli." I don't know how long you've been in the Austin area, but there are several good restaurants out 71 in the lake area...Hudson's comes immediately to mind. And, South Congress has several pretty-good Mexican places as well...El Sol y La Luna...good chilaquiles and other interior Mex food. You have many more options living south than I do living way north. "Walberg - macht man Schweinshaxe dort? Ich werde ganz fern für gute Schweinshaxe fahren!" Don't know, can't remember...suggest you call them and ask. As I told you, although it was several years ago, the German fellow who at that time owned and ran the place said he was raising his own pigs, so quizás sí, pero quizás no tambien

Oh yum! Does that look good. Thanks so much.... I've put it the recipe in my "best of" box, and I really appreciate your taking the time to do that. It looks just like what I've been searching for. Maráming salámat and Mabúhay!

I lived in the Philippines for three years and make pretty good adobo and lumpia, but my lumpia sauce sucks. Everytime I ask someone how to make it, I get the ole', "Oh, it's easy, just a little of this and that....whatever you want." I'm obviously using the wrong "this" and "that," or too much "this" and not enough "that." Because "what I want" is a good sauce. I like the kind of thickish, sweet and sour sauce (but NOT the ubiquitous reddish-orange sweet & sour sauce found in "American Chinese" restaurants) ...I'm sure it must have a vinegar base...maybe some soy sauce..sugar, chopped green onions, sesame seeds.... I'm not sure exactly what all, obviously. I'd be so appreciative if you could see your way clear to part with a recipe. Salámat.

I lived in Shady Hollow when I first moved here, so ate down there a lot. However, that's been about eight years ago, so I don't know if the places we enjoyed are still there or not. There was a Green Mesquite down there, good for ribs; Slab Shack (my son worked there for a time) good brisket and chopped beef, and a Mexican restaurant that served pretty good interior Mexican. I can't remember the name of it, but I think it was over in Manchaca... wherever it was, it was away from the main drag... we took the back way out of Shady Hollow. And of course, a perennial favorite, Salt Lick. My favorite, though, was and still is Rosie's Tamale House which, although not what some might call "close" to you, is closer to you than it is now to me (I'm in far north Austin....much, much farther north than the location on North Lamar that you referred to as "far north and I do mean far"). Rosie's is out Hwy 71 (I think, it's been a while since I've been that way so if you try it, you might be smart to check the map or call before you go) by the lake. You go to the "y" and head west. Anyone can tell you where it is. Rosie's Tamale House got started a long time ago with just a small place (you could almost call it a shack) on the left-hand side of the highway. It's still there and they still sell what some people consider the best tamales in Austin. But Rosie was so successful that she built a nice big restaurant about a quarter-mile on down the highway, and on the opposite side (your right hand, if you're heading west), and that'll be what you're watching for. Start with the nachos...be sure to get them plain...that's very important....you don't want all that other junk just slopping them up and ruining them; you want just the fresh hot corn tortilla halves, and beans and cheese, with a bowl of jalepeños on the side. If the only nachos you've had are those big production deals in the chain restaurants, you're in for a revelation. Then, get the chiles rellenos... I usually get beef. I drive a long way for those rellenos. Another place closer to you than to me, that I am still willing to drive to, is Thai Spice on Cap of Texas. Everyone I've asked says it's the best Thai in town. I drive by at least four or five other Thai restaurants to get there, so I must think it's pretty good, too. Speaking of driving, if you like German, pack up the ole' vehicle and get on I35 and head north until you get to the Walberg exit. It's a small German town, and I do mean small and actually now that I think about it, calling it a "town" at all is probably an exaggeration. There's not much there except a bank and a couple other buildings, including an old mercantile store that is now a German restaurant. Of course things change, so can't vouch for the same fellow owning it, but a while back I had a German exchange student staying with me and we took her for dinner there at least once a month. She always ordered the potato soup to start and once I asked her if it was the same as her mother made and she said, "Well, my mother does make potato soup but this is much better." She got into a big conversation with the German owner/chef and he said he was raising his own pigs and vegetables to give everything the authentic flavor from back home. They have buffets some times of the year, Octoberfest for sure, and orgasmic "Octoberfest special beer" that they serve year 'round. There is a tent and Biergarten out back with oompah music, for special occasions... call ahead to find out if there's going to be a band, if you're in the mood to don your lederhosen, stick a feather in der hut, and polka a step or two. All together now, "Eins, zwei...."

Who were the Charlotte Russes and how did they get Danny Fisher laid? PS (I think maybe I went to high school with them.)

Survir, your lyrical writing skills and remarkable recall of nuance are truly wonderful. I felt as though I, too, were in that house, in that kitchen, searching along with that small boy the night sky for that one special star. If eGullet did not a single other thing for me, I would feel blessed to have been introduced to you.

In Texas, of course that's an "Arnge Drank."

That sounds like heaven in a Nescafe jar. Any chance you still have her recipe? And, if so, would you share?

Even in the olden days when I thought I had to take wine in order to be considered a proper guest, I had the sense to say, "Here's something for your wine cabinet," in order to let the host and hostess off of the hook of thinking I expected it to be served that evening. I agree that there's nothing worse than racing around your kitchen trying to deal with a gift that requires some kind of immediate attention. As least it is if you're as disorganized as I am.

That called to mind a "childhood food memory" that I had completely forgotten....snow ice cream. Remember scooping up snow, being very careful to avoid any dirty or yellow spots , bringing it into the house, sprinkling it with sugar, and dousing it with heavy cream? Yum.... wonder if it'd still taste good today?

Thanks for the compliment. It's just so much easier for me that way than at the last minute, racing to the wine shop or the flower shop or the chocolate shop. Of course, I must admit, if I were a true wine connoisseur, which I decidedly am not, I'd probably be more likely to take that.

Thank you, Survir, for taking the time to write that marvelous post... It is breathtaking. It only spurs me on to visit India someday.

Jaymes, is there a different technique used for eating milk as opposed to drinking it. Do you have to chew Eagle brand? Just wanted to know, in case I was missing an exerience. Well, Eagle Brand is much too thick to drink. It would be like drinking one's chocolate pudding. I gag at the thought of attempting it. One could waggle one's finger in it and slurp from that finger, I suppose. However, I believe that even the action of licking and slurping from the waggled finger would still be referred to as "eating" rather than "drinking."

Jaymes, thanks for your kindly expressed kitty concern. Diana only gets less than a spoonful of milk when I eat a bowl of Smacks, 'cause I know that milk and sugar aren't good for her digestion. So I think she'll be okay. Lately I'm less on Smacks as a guilty meal. Now I eat toasted baguettes with Plugra butter and jam if I'm so hungry I must have food immediately and can't be bothered about fixing something decent. Well, I'm sure a few spoonsful of Sugar Smacks milk is nothing like half a can of Eagle Brand. Hard to imagine anybody'd be so dumb, ain't it.