Miami Danny

It's a good question. Some serious amateur cook friends get their best ideas from online sites like Epicurious. Print sources retain value when they bring something new to the party -- for example, cookbooks by experienced creative chefs. A traditional issue behind US cookbook discussions is plagiarism. It was one of the tirades in the Hesses' famous late 20th-century critique. Also, the owner of a major US historical cookbook collection (exhibited periodically at the Smithsonian) says that little in modern US cookbooks is actually new. "They mainly take old recipes, update them and give them new names." Scrutinizing cookbooks for 50 years or so gave her rare insight into this. And Mary Anna DuSablon documented an explosion of new cookbook quantity, which is not all in the interest of consumers. The tide of new titles hides books that are oustanding and useful, but usually second-hand, inexpensive, and not pushed in bookstores or on TV. ← Cookbooks are not just sources for recipes, but for ideas; as well as for the evolution of ideas in cookery, which are often lacking online. Read Jasper White's or Laurent Tourondel's, or even Paul Prudhomme's early cookbooks, for example. I would also say that if my "one taster" is someone whose palate I know, understand, and respect (like Michel Richard or Jose Andres), that often trumps, for me anyway, anything else. Of course, I own a coupla hundred cookbooks and still often 'back up' my recipes with online ideas. So maybe the 'cookbook' is going the way of the...book.

First-Your touching defense of 'celebrities' is a breath of fresh air in a society that simply does not value celebrities enough. Second-I think we all know what the word prostitution means. And if not, certainly-as a great Supreme Court Justice once said about pornography-we know it when we see it. Third-I am not any more or less anonymous than you or anyone else here-but I do think the facts speak for themselves. Someone gives TC money to do or say something that TC would not do or say if someone were not paying him to do or say whatever they are paying him to say. And you know, your average prostitute might really like sex-might have sex all the time for free-but when you do it for money, when you pimp for a product for money, well, as I said, I think we know it when we see it. Four-Prostitution is illegal therefore wrong is a bad argument. Would you say the same thing about Foie Gras? And prostitution IS legal in some places anyway, just as Foie Gras is. Five-If you don't think bad food can spread disease faster than prostitution, you haven't been watching the news lately Six-I don't think there is anything intrinsically wrong with prostitution nor with product endorsement-just as there is nothing wrong with getting paid commensurate with one's experience, hard work, education, etc. They may, however, involve a moral judgement, just one of many we make all the time, that allow us to live with ourselves and our decisions.

Celebrities don't do endorsements because they like the products-they do endorsements because they are paid to do them. They do not write the script, etc., or tell their agent-hey, get me a commercial with Coke. They are prostitutes-the only differences between them and your average street-walker is the money and the johns (products). I am okay with that, just as I am okay with prostitution in general. But please, know the facts, and let's be honest about it. TC could either love the product, hate the product, or be indifferent towards the product (john). Just like any street-walker. He could be getting a little money, or a lot of money. Just like any street-walker, And in the end, he may feel ashamed, or just be happy to get drunk and count his money. Just like any street-walker. Whether he serves the drink or not, or it tastes good or not, or if he likes it or not, is moot. And whether the Coca-Cola Corporation is evil is also moot. This is an exchange of services for money. Period.

Also keep in mind that Tom's 'First Bite' columns are not 'reviews' per se, but teasers that are more or less fluffy come on's for a place that has just opened or is about to open. So perhaps that is one of the other reasons that the thrashing he gave Commissary in his 'First Bite' column seemed so oddly below the belt.

Reignking,Mar 2 2009, 11:49 AM-What are you all talking about? In a nutshell, Tom Sietsema wrote a piece for the Post regarding an establishment, Commissary, where he had had a prior 'personal relationship" with one of the owners. Apparently, the 'relationship' ended badly. The piece was very negative. He never disclosed the 'relationship' to his readers or editors. One of the other owners objected, and the Post retracted the piece and 'regretted' its publication.

Then I guess you consider his restaurants on par with Macaroni grill and Olive Garden? Tom Colicchio is the main reason Top Chef has any culinary credibility or relevance. ← "Tom Colicchio is the main reason Top Chef has any culinary credibility or relevance." OOWHAAAAT??? Possibly the funniest sentence I have ever read!

Sorry. Not sure what you are asking.

Apparently he is keeping a low profile around the Post newsroom, which I think is what weinoo was referencing. And I'm not sure what evidence you have that "his editors and readers have moved past-- for better or for worse -- his lapse in judgment." I think it is quite the contrary, for both editors and readers. Perhaps they have stopped discussing it publicly, but I'm not sure that is evidence they have "moved past" it. And I'm not sure you can count the lack of posts on other food boards, where pro-Tom bias is pervasive. Maybe people are just waiting for the other shoe to drop.

This is a beautiful event that combines all the great things about sharing food in a restaurant without being required to pay. That's right. The tab reads..."Lunch for___ served this evening by________. Your Bill Total: $0.00" I ate a really good lunch of basmati rice with grilled eggplant, cumin potatoes, cheese cubes and spinach, tomato dal, a basket of naan and raita. Everything was spiced well, and the people who cook at Polo volunteer for this event also. I have tried to volunteer for Karma Kitchen but they were already loaded with volunteers-but it is something that makes you reflect on the obsessive fetishization of food and restaurants that is sometimes taken to ridiculous lengths. But I do not want to diminish what these great people are doing here-it is truly a gift. The bill also reads, "In the spirit of generosity, someone who came before you made a gift of this meal. We hope you will continue the circle of giving in your own way! If you wish to pay-it-forward to a future guest, you may leave an anonymous contribution in this envelope." That's it. Sundays, 12-3, at Polo Indian-1736 Connecticut Ave NW. For more info go to Karma Kitchen And I capped off the meal with hot chai and sweet, cardamom-scented rice pudding. Really beautiful, sweet people. I hope I get to volunteer here soon.

Hasn't Tom himself run into a "conflict-of-interest" lately? ← Weinoo-Your tagline, "Don't ask me to apologize, I won't ask you to forgive me" sums it up. I guess his judgement might have to be called into question. Not necessarily his judgement as a critic, but his ethical/personal judgement in not disclosing his prior relationship to one of the partners. His actions beg the question, how many other reviews or comments were directed at establishments where he has had undisclosed (good or bad) personal relationships with an owner/partner/chef/maitre d' ? It is perfectly normal for journalists and people they cover to have personal relationships, or even business relationships. A simple disclosure to the editor probably would have helped to avoid the mess. Or, for gods sake, you might think to yourself, "Hey, I dated the owner and it ended badly-maybe I should let someone else handle this?" But the fact that he did not disclose it-that is where questions may be asked about other people with whom he may be, or may have been, close personal friends, and chosen not to disclose that as well.

I'm sure a cultured gentleman like yourself appreciates the sad shape of today's youth when Mt. Pleasant Group House, rather than boasting harDCore bands in the basement and blasting DisChord on the porch, feature bands of bloggers watching bad TV. No wonder Ian McKaye never comes 'round the Raven no more. Sadly, I'm to old to move to Petworth where the next generation is selling their couch to buy their next guitar. But I'm passing the torch to Busboy junior, who already wears his first tattoo. Someone on another board suggested that they were surprised at the quality of Sietsema's prose stylings on the Ubuntu piece -- I know you don't care for him but I have to agree, it was a good piece and nicely put together. And, made for a nice balance (for me, anyway) with the naval-gazing piece about the naval-gazers down the street from my house. Years ago we used to live in places like Mt. Pleasant to get away from those people. But, again, an interesting piece, or at least a very Washington one. To your larger question, though -- I wonder, with everyone reading and writing 12 or 15 blogs or websites or on-line New York Times a day, has the big thrill that the slap of the newspaper on the morning steps and fresh feel of section F over coffee and toast used to bring grown a little less special? ← When I leave my humble Adams Morgan basement apartment, the papers that are delivered to the building have all been scooped up, and the boxes on Columbia Rd are either empty or near empty, so someone is reading the thing on actual paper. But I know what you mean. But people still read the Post online don't they? Do they? You are def. right about one thing-who DOESN'T have a blog-but is anyone even interested in people sitting on a couch google-chatting each other? An utterly charmless piece (couldn't be helped?). But I thought it was interesting that one of the bloggers mentioned that Bob Woodward broke Watergate, but "you are on equal footing when it comes to whether the prosciutto is good....Food is this thing where everyone is on the same page." Not really, Zippy-it helps to have some knowledge, experience, a good palate, etc. I'm all for the punk ethic of DIY, and "anyone can do it", just pick up a guitar (or a Mac); but not everyone is an Ian McKaye, and after reading their blog, they, sir, are no Ian McKaye. Perhaps you are right that it is time for us old-timers to get out of the way of these punks and just enjoy the ride-but as that great punk George Jones once crooned, I'm not ready yet. BTW-I liked Tom's piece on Ubuntu, as he managed to be simple and straightforward, like the restaurant itself.

Did anyone read the article about the NEW FOOD BLOGGERS? Four words-Mount Pleasant Group House. But seriously, is no one reading this enough to comment? Or is it that good that everyone just curls up in a loving embrace with section F? I liked the Ubuntu piece, and the recipes were pretty straightforward, esp. the dessert for one. It's good to see some new bylines.

Are you still slicing off fingertips? Because they must be down to the nub by now....

I thought for the truly hardcore the jamon iberico is supposed to be sliced by hand - you don't want any of the heat of a machine melting that lovely fat. ← the hand crank doesn't really generate the kind of heat that an electric slicer does, although I am not a scientist. My point was I think they could add more charcuterie. And when I said "bewildered" about PT, I didn't mean I was confused. I am just bewildered at how bad the food often is. Especially that horrible shrimp. I can understand -it's soft and mushy and sweet as candy-why children might like it, tho..... I feel another CCM comin on...

I think you need a "devils on horseback" cage match - how funny is it that there are 3 restaurants within 3 blocks of each other all doing almost the exact same dish? Is there some zoning requirement in the DD now that you have to offer bacon-wrapped, blue-cheese and almond stuffed dates? My kids insist on ordering the shrimp every time we're at PT and I never mind sneaking a couple. We've also been there very often (probably at least a half dozen times over the past several months) and never had consistency issues. (And we've always seen Jonathan Eismann there running the kitchen). But I do think I know what you're talking about when you say you're "bewildered" sometimes. Although the Asian focus is not nearly as overt as when PT was on Lincoln Road, I do think there's still a strong focus on salty/sweet/sour balance in his dishes, and sometimes I find the sour component overplayed. Some dishes just haven't worked for me occasionally. But that's similar to my experience at Michy's in the first several months it opened, where there were some items that I just didn't think worked (baby conch escargot?) ← Here's a look at the croquetas at SM which I realy loved DailyCocaine and you can also see how small the duck and foie gras sausage/white bean dish is, which at $15 is pretty steep, although delicious in a port wine reduction. Also the 18oz. T-Bone which started at $28 is now $33, but I still think that's a bargain. I agree on the dates, but how about sweetbreads, crispy pork belly, multiple egg dishes, etc. I also wish that SM would use their beautiful Berkel for more than just serrano ham, as you've stated elsewhere.

Surprised to see you refer to PT as sub-ordinary. I have it as one of the top 10 places in town, certainly within its price category. Grilled asparagus w/ poached/fried egg, hot & sour popcorn shrimp, tempura soft-shell crab, duck salad, buffalo sweetbreads, quail w/ peaches, short rib w/ white beans, great french fries, 20+ small dishes to choose from, all work for me. I agree the portions at Sra. are somewhat parsimonious. ← I love the bar at PT, and I love the bartender Amanda at PT. I had the 'Crisp Dates' (smoked pork belly, almonds, garlic aioli on endive over bleu cheese) last night and they were very, very good. I also loved the wine list but I understand that those prices may have been unsustainable. The consistency of the kitchen is not there yet, and I am often bewildered by the food. The hot and sour popcorn shrimp is just a big mess to me, even though it sounds like it's going to be a big party in your mouth. Maybe they should call it hot and sour popcorn shrimp lollipops and cover all the cutesy bases. But I'm willing to give it another try, if only for Miss Amanda... As for the actual topic...Culinary Cage Match

I guess by "ground zero" I mean that you can go to just about any of the now-several restaurants in the Design District and at a minimum have a good meal, and potentially have an excellent one (which is a lot more than you can say for South Beach, which these days is a lot like playing Russian Roulette with 5 bullets in the chambers). There are certainly more places I want to go for dinner in the DD and along Biscayne Blvd. than there are in South Beach or the Gables these days. Personally, I seem to like Pacific Time more than some folks, and Fratelli Lyon less than others. I've not yet been to Buena Vista Bistro, which I thought you liked. Particularly since several of these places have a focus on small dishes, I do like the possibility of a DD tapas crawl - you could do a taste-testing of MGF&D, Pacific Time and Sra. Martinez's bacon-wrapped, blue-cheese & almond-stuffed dates (the official snack of the Design District). ← Yeah sorry didn't mean to snap....but here's my take-Buena Vista Bistro is not really in the DD, so doesn't count. PT is sub-ordinary; Brosia has tumbled into the abyss, and so far, although I like some stuff at SM, and MB and David are super-sweet, the portions are ridiculously small. BTW, there was a caldo gallego on the menu tonite, broham. $9. And the $4 Borsao BTG is just too cheap and good to pass up. However, I had an amazing roasted pepper cocktail at MGFD after ($13), and the wings. The wings. The Culinary Cage Match is ON.

Great meal recap, Frod. My only disagreement with you is that the Design District is becoming "ground zero for fine dining". Perhaps that is for another topic, but only Michael's Genuine really fits the bill, with Michelle's small tapas place yipping at his heels. Pacific Time, Fratelli Lyon, Brosia? None have proven their mettle yet. I ate at all the Design District restaurants at some point in the last three weeks (including Sra. Martinez twice), and other than the great service (and of course the beautiful red Berkel hand-slicer) at Fratelli Lyon, I was really disappointed. In fact, as the DD becomes more of a 'dining destination', it seems as though the quality of the restaurants has actually fallen. Kind of like South Beach. I do believe that MB will be very successful here, though.

A new 'branch' of the famed El Palacio de los Jugos on Biscayne Blvd., just south of 87th St? Is this too good to be true? I was told that the chicharron, tamales, and fresh juices would be coming in every morning. The owners are 'family' with EPDLJ. Cuban food back in the 'hood? Chicharron con Yuca ($3.50) and Tamales ($2) are a great start... El Q-Bano 8650 Biscayne Blvd 305-758-2550 (They Deliver) for photos of the tamales and chicharron, go to www.dailycocaine.blogspot.com

Flap meat is cut from the loin, not the flank. It sits in the middle of the fat cap on the loin. Flank and hangar are 2 completely different whole muscles so no it is not possible that vacio is part hanger, part flank. If it is indeed just flap meat then it comes from up by the loin ... a great distance from either flank or hanger. ← "Flank and hangar are 2 completely different whole muscles so no it is not possible that vacio is part hanger, part flank." Can I get an amen on that?

I'm having a hard time convincing people that the Argentinian 'vacio' steak can not be part hanger steak and part flank steak. In Argentinian parlance, vacio usually refers to 'flap' meat, or 'flap' steak, which is cut from the flank. Hanger is cut from the plate. Would it be possible to have a steak that is "part hanger and part flank"? I'm having a hard time believing that I might be incorrect, but I guess there is always that possibility. Any takers?

Speaking of PDT's dogs and cocktails, they are featured in the 'Pleasures' issue of MAP Magazine, where both Don & John are mentioned, as are the Chang dog and the John John Deragon... MAP Magazine piece Please go to page 17.

A big shout-out to Mitch Weinstein AKA Weinoo-truly humble and caring in spite of his tough-guy image. MAP Magazine is an alternative arts magazine based in Miami's Wynwood arts district, and Weinoo was kind enough to assist me in a piece about 'hidden bars' that includes NYC's PDT and others. The man is truly awesome and the piece would not have been possible without his creative input. This is the 'Pleasures' issue for which I was the Guest Epicurean Editor.... MAP Magazine Please go to page 17 for the piece.

I work for several publications. At one, every single fact is checked, important or not. At another, my editor knows enough about food to ask the right questions. Often interns are doing the first layer of fact-checking-that includes making phone calls and correcting translations. They're smart. The funny part is, there was no reason to break out guanciale, and not pancetta...

It's another mom and pop operation near the Design District, in Buena Vista East, if you will, that replaces the old restaurant 'A', along the NE 2nd Avenue corridor, or what I like to call, the new restaurant row, formerly known as 'desolation row'. Buena Vista Bistro is not glamorous or filling breathless entries in multiple food blogs, but it has an organic neighborhood feel, and if you know people who live here, or live here yourself, you will probably run into all of them during the course of a visit. The chef cooks simply, and the food is bright and unpretentious. The pork rillette ($6) is similar to a rough pâté, lots of long-cooked shredded pork mixed with fat, and served in a small crock with cornichons and zingy mayo. Some crusty bread is all you need, and some wine, of course. The place is no longer BYOB, and I'm afraid I'm unfamiliar with the wine list. The pace is leisurely, so enjoy it. The crab cakes ($8) were served along with a delicious small salad, and while not the best crab cakes I've ever had, were satisfying and tasty. The skin-on french fries were crispy, tasted like a good fry should, and were $2 (!). I sat outside, smoked a cigar, and watched the world, and the jitneys, go by. A true neighborhood joint. They also do a nice Sunday brunch-the Eggs Benedict had a really light and frothy hollandaise sauce, and the Steak & Eggs were also cooked exactly as ordered (rare and runny). NE 2nd Ave and 46th St