Miami Danny

If you are going to claim the high ground, then you have to take the responsibilty, as well as the paycheck. Mr. Bourdain is not an 'employee' either, according to his own post. I've worked for a TV network, and I wasn't too pleased with everything they did, either. But I shut my mouth and took their money. Meretricious? Perhaps. But then I've never made any claims otherwise. Mr. Bourdain, however, continues to protest his virtue.

Negative reviews can easily damage or destroy a restaurant. I met with a restaurateur here in Miami whose business dropped 40% after a bad review in the Herald. Reviews, good or bad, matter. And as a former bar owner, I can tell you that advertising in some papers is accompanied by good press. The 'review' isn't the only thing that matters; there are plenty of ways to shoehorn in your advertisers; either by name, or by industry (this goes for fashion, design, theater, etc., as well as restaurants).

I don't really believe that there is a principle originating inside the critic and compelling him to critique the work of others. I'm happy that there are critics like you out there, but I'd bet almost anything that you are among an infinitesimally small number of restaurant critics who think about their craft this way. ← While it certainly may be true that "you [Rogov] are among an infinitesimally small number of restaurant critics who think about their craft this way", it is by no means a reason to rejoice.

So it seems, unfortunately, that in the end, this argument always comes down to a battle between those who take comps and defend it, and those who don't, and defend that. The argument that sports, or opera or theater writers take comps, is irrelevant to restaurant criticism. These writers must cover an event, usually an unduplicatable one. Meals can be duplicated. Rogov makes the point that criticism has its basis in philosophy. Unfortunately, when it comes to restaurants these days, there are simply too many cheerleaders, many of whom get invited to comped events (and some who do not, of course), and not enough philosophers.

I ate at Michy's again recently, and although it seems to be getting more expensive (maybe I'm eating more), the food was great. There was the sweetbreads scallopini, which I don't think I've seen before, and the duck confit with lardon, frissee, and poached quail eggs, which, while traditional, was fresh, bright, and flavorful. Although the chef was not in the kitchen (this was on a Friday night), the food was definitely up to the high standards she has set. For a glossy photo, and the full article, go to Miami SunPost The wine list still has some bargains, as well.

Jim is correct. For fish tacos.

The word pitchman means someone is selling something for money. Whoever does so, does so at their own risk (and reward, of course). I don't see what the big deal is, everyone needs to make a living. But your logic is tortured, and I'm not sure what the difference is if a beer company gives you money; or a beer company gives your company money and they pay you out of that money. It doesn't really matter who signs the check. If someone is sponsoring you, you are a pitchman; either active or passive. You don't have to have Mr. Bourdain literally say,"Brought to you by Michelob." It says it right there on the page. It's the same thing. Endorse means to 'validate'; the idea that someone like Mr. Bourdain has no control over his sponsors, or that he rejects them even as they pay him, is somewhat disingenuous; or maybe he's just 'getting paid', as he was at the Food Network SoBe bla blah blah...where he was visibly using a bottle of Amstel Light as a prop. And I think everyone got the OP's joke. Except Mr. Bourdain.

If you are 400 pounds, and you need a doctor's diagnosis to tell you something is wrong, you are in denial. A few pounds overweight, of course, is not horrible, unless you're Brittany Spears or Val Kilmer. For the rest of us approaching or in middle age, excess just doesn't cut it anymore. Saying no to yourself and others isn't easy, but sometimes it has to be done. I just did almost a month of raw foods, no booze or coffee. Try telling people you don't drink alcohol or coffee in Miami. But the scale was my friend, when everyone else scoffed, and I woke up each morning with a clear head. Now I'm back eating normally, but I've left off the coffee, and I start each day with freshly-made vegetable/fruit juice. After that, it's anything goes. But I tend to eat less now. And execise more. The whole idea that we 'foodies' are fatter than the rest of the nation is not supported by any facts; and my guess is it is probably quite the opposite. In fact, Mr. Perlow does not mention how much he misses foie gras or pork belly; he misses his pizza and burgers. That leads me to believe that he was getting fat on a lot of junk.

Was this expectation imposed by the publication, or did it come from you? In other words, did anybody actually say to you: "We require you to make repeat visits with multiple guests. But we're only paying you 1/4 of what that would cost. So you either need to get comped or pay out of your own pocket"? I'm asking this because I've heard variants of this complaint many times and, upon closer examination, it often turns out to be based more on assumptions and self-imposed restrictions than on actual instructions from editors. Regardless, in my opinion the solution in any situation like this is to have an explicit, public agreement and understanding with the publication. Within a wide range of possibilities, the specific nature of the agreement doesn't seem as important to me as having one. If the agreement is that you're only going to visit each restaurant once, that's fine. You can write about restaurants based on one visit. Frank Bruni does, Gael Greene does -- they just don't label such reports as "reviews." If you're going to visit restaurants once and write about them, your editors should be required to face up to and agree with that procedure, and your readers should be told, either through context or through a formally printed set of guidelines, that your comments are based on one visit -- and it probably makes sense to use a term other than "review" to describe what you're writing. Likewise, plenty of journalists across a variety of subject areas accept comps. But your editors should be involved in the decision to accept comps, and your writing should disclose those comps. ← I agree that simply calling what you write something other than a 'review' is acceptable, if you're only going to a place once. An 'appreciation', a 'recap', whatever. But how do we know how many visits a reviewer makes? If it is not specified in every review, the reader is at a loss. Maybe the NYTimes has a public policy, but I don't know that is written in stone anywhere.Accepting comps is a slippery slope. Of course it is done across the board, and typical 'friends and family' posts or 'meal recaps' are meant as shmooze-fests, with the 'reviewer' expected to come through for the restauarant for the free grub/booze. I get no meal allowance for my writing. Even if I go to a taco truck, I still might have $50 in expenses (multiple tacos, multiple visits). For fine dining (which I rarely do), I arrange my reviews around places I'm already planning on visiting anyway. I'm not interested in paying somebody to publish my writing. The cheap freelancer is a fact of life, though, with every blogger willing to do it practically (or actually) for free, and with no moral issues attached. The newspaper restaurant-reviewing game (along with much of 'journalism') has deteriorated rapidly, for that reason among many others. Incidentally, my editors have never asked for a specific 'waiting period', or number of visits, before a review is published. They trust me to do what's right, and then they, of course, make the ultimate decision on whether or not to publish. Additionally, there are always the PR columns (What's New?, or, Coming Soon...) in with the reviews, which is where the fluff should go. Of course, as in Sports, you always have to walk the fine line between boosterism and journalism. Of course, in twenty years in Sports, I never paid for anything, and I wasn't even a writer.

Agree the Design District is fairly barren at night, other than at Michael's, although Brosia around the corner is starting to pick up, as is Domo Japones. Then again, Mondays are slow everywhere, and to generalize about the place from one Monday night visit is questionable. The neighborhood, between N. Miami Av and NE 2nd Av, while barren, is quite safe, and there is plenty of valet parking for the timid. I have to disagree with the comment that prices have gone up. As a local, I have eaten at Michael's since its inception. It is, in fact, still filled with locals, who know not to go on Monday because that is 'chef's night off', like everywhere else. Why anyone would want to try the best restaurant in town when the Chef isn't cooking is something only tourists do (some, of course, have no choice), so you are probably correct in assuming there were a lot of tourists there. I have menus in my file dating back a year, and prices are pretty much the same, give-or-take a dollar. The whole wood roasted 'poulet rouge' chicken, in fact, is $31, and is for two. There are also 9 snack items for $5, and the wood oven pizza is $16. As for the design, I guess that's just a matter of taste. (Oh, food's great, too.)

Except that it's not a agent's job to handle publicity. That's a publicist. Different breed altogether. Last time I checked, Tony Bourdain had a hit show too. ← I specifically posted that AB has a hit TV show. ← <aside>I believe around here, AB=Alton Brown and TB=Tony Bourdain. Hence the confusion. ← The topic's about Bourdain, but I see the confusion. Both he and Alton Brown are pitchmen, and both have fans who claim them to be pure. Anyone who believes that celebrities only endorse products they use and/or like, is likely unfamiliar with the way the advertising business works.

Except that it's not a agent's job to handle publicity. That's a publicist. Different breed altogether. Last time I checked, Tony Bourdain had a hit show too. ← I specifically posted that AB has a hit TV show. From which he earns probably a pretty decent living. But if not, he should probably call his agent. [sarcasm] I'm sure he's doing quite well, was my point. And last time I checked, agents handled the money. We're talking about money here, not publicity, no disrespect intended (toward anyone, or toward money, either).And it appears Mr. Bourdain is well-equipped to defend himself, no?

Daily Cocaine-Scroll down to February 27th One last bit from the Sobe WTF, wherin St. Anthony calls the Food Network "Dog Murderers". "They killed my poor fluffy!" He gets all sensitive, soft, and tender. Miami kind of brings that out in people. Daily Cocaine-Scroll down to February 27th

Methinks the lady doth protest too much, although, really, who cares? Go make money. The only reason everyone doesn't sell out, is because they can't find someone to sell out TO! How about appearing at the Food Network/Amstel Light SoBe Wine and Food Fest-if they're paying you to write, or to show up, you don't always get to pick the sponsors-I understand. Free week in Miami, all expenses paid, maybe you say some stuff for a half-hour and get adored over. Nobody does any of this for the money, because there isn't any, right? Or maybe they just don't want you to think that they're doing it for the money. I think that's quaint. Or maybe something else. And to respond to the 'writer': AB has a hit TV show. I'm sure there's no money in that, either. It's all about the love. Or maybe you should call your agent, dude.

While not on South Beach, for 'new and exciting' I would recommend Michy's or North One10 on the Biscayne Corridor in Miami; and Michael's Genuine and Brosia in the Design District (for a current Brosia review, and an idea of what is going on in the DD, click on Brosia Dining Review. You can cab it. On Lincoln Rd., try Le Bon, a teriffic Belgian spot for moules frites and Belgian beers. New and exciting? Sardinia for Sardinian food and wine, maybe La Marea at the Townhouse? Haven't been, but I heard a few good reports.

Chef and author Anthony Bourdain, introduced by Dana Cowin, Editor, Food & Wine magazine, spoke for a too-quick half-hour to an overflow crowd of rapturous admirers. He introduced author Michael Ruhlman, who was sitting in the front row, and even took a question about using local ingredients from a Miami food blogger. DailyCocaine Possibly the highlight of the Fest for many people, including myself. He looked tanned and rested.

Yes. I've also been informed that the NE corner of Rivington and Clinton is a cuchifritos joint, although I'm not sure if it's the same one from the '80's (I'll find out in two weeks when I'm back in the old neighborhood).

A funny thing happened to me in Miami Friday night apropos this topic. I was attending the Spiegel World show to celebrate my wife's birthday, and we arrived about 45 minutes before the show. A prix-fixe restaurant, and a bar selling drinks were set up outside the tent (run by 'Oasis at The Raleigh'), so I ordered a Heineken and a Johnny Walker Black. The bill was $24 and change, so I gave the bartender $40, and he returned $15 (no point in arguing about $.50 on a $24 tab). It seemed awfully high, but when I went back for another beer, it was $9, so I thought, $9 for the beer, $15 for the Scotch, welcome to Miami. Later I got a glass of red wine, and another Black Label. The bill was $31 and change. So at this point, I was on my last bit of coin, and I thought, what kind of wine are they serving at $15+. Well, when I focussed my eyes, I saw some marginal bottle of generic Pinot Noir, whose name escapes me now. It turns out that they were adding in a 15% Gratuity, and the bartenders were not mentioning it, nor was there any way to know (the light was so dim you could barely see your own hand), unless you had guessed it or could read in the dark. So all those three's and four's I was laying on the bar were really double tips. It was a great show, but I have to say: Every time I go to South Beach, I leave feeling disappointed, ripped-off, or both. To top it off, I got a $23 parking ticket for not parking 'head-in'. As this was the last parking space on a holiday/boat show weekend, I was happy to get it, but I had to squeeze in, and back it in. If you go to South Beach, be very careful how you spend your money-the sharks are everywhere

Because of restaurants? You mean because they've historically treated their employees so shabbily that laws had to be passed and unions formed just to protect the workers? Then I totally agree with you.

That is typical St. Chef talk. "Embrace the change"? You mean forced to comply with a humane law, and then making it seem like they've been so concerned about it for so long, they just didn't want to tell anyone about it, but now the word's out. Please nominate us for a James Beard Compassion Award. Oh, by the way, we'd also like you, the customer, to know how compassionate we are, and to make it seem like you're helping us do a good deed. Now give us $10. I completely agree with Annecros. Manipulative and obvious.

"The fact that this is a new city ordinance makes the previous argument about whether the money is actually being spent on health care a moot point: they do, in fact, have to "open their books" at least to the city. No trust necessary. " Yeah, because restaurants never break the law. I was an investigator for the US Labor Dept., and the biggest lawbreakers when it came to screwing over employees was the restaurant industry (especially considering the huge numbers of illegals working in the trade). I know people working at restaurants in NYC right now who are not getting their proper tips from their employers. Want to complain? Just lost your job, and your pay. And if I'm not wrong, aren't restaurants, like other business, required to pay workmans comp? Social Security? Medicare? Should these all be broken out on the menu? I don't have a problem with that. Do you? Here in Florida I used to pay, as the retailer of alcohol, a special surtax on every bottle I purchased from my wholesaler. Should I have added that to the tab, too? How about providing soap at the employee hand sink, and paper towels. Employers are required to do that. as well. The point is that, yes, no one puts a gun to one's head to dine at a restaurant. But that doesn't make it right. Those 'surcharges' should go into the food prices. (And, not to be crass, but the argument could also be made that no one is putting a gun to anyone's head to work in a restaurant, either.)

I would not because its not part of my industry's model. Constantin is operating within the model within which he has been set. He is using the tools that are easily available to him. Have you ever walked out of a grocery with a surcharge placed on your purchase? The closest comparison would be the bottle deposits of the 70s and 80s. But in the restaurant/hospitality industry I've paid gratuity (mandatory and choice). I've paid corkage fees. I've paid those stupid tourist fees that some cities tack on to every charge in the hospitality field. From the outside it may not seem novel, but from the inside the novelty comes from how the existing system is used. ← I love to give money to other people to show my support for their beliefs. I prefer to do so voluntarily. You are equating the restaurant owners having lofty principles with the fact that I ought to pay for it. That's called sticking it to your customers. I will be the judge of my beliefs, and you of your beliefs. That shouldn't be added on to my restaurant tab. It was bad enough when chefs started acting like priests, telling us how to live, eat, etc.,and I believe are now supposed to be correctly addressed as 'Saint Chef'. Now the restaurant is the new church? Am I supposed to tithe to the restauarant and thank them, dear lovely people, for having principles? And then charging me for them? Like a great man once said, "There's a sucker born every minute."

I normally don't do recipes on my blog, and when I do it's something I created myself. But rather than go to the publisher, etc., may I suggest simply adding Courtesy So-and-So adding whatever details(author, book title,publisher, date of copyright, etc.) you like, making it plain that it is not yours. If the author or publisher comes after you (highly unlikely), just take it down. In my experience, publishers never get back to you.

I don't really understand how separately charging the public for a fee that the restaurant claims goes to the dishwashers and cooks is anything but silly. If the restaurant is so concerned about the wage difference, charge a full service charge and divvy it up how you want. Your payroll, or how you pay for health care, is really not my concern. And, oddly enough, although I'm not casting aspersions here, restaurants may abuse these charges.

Sounds like a delicious system...What does she get in return?