Pizza Napoletana

I had their pizza last week and is now better then ever. No 1 Pizzeria in America. If you haven't been there yet, now is the ideal time to visit.

Another good review whilst waiting for egulletters to come up with theirs Portico Magazine

Pontorno, My intervention, I believe in a polite manner, had the scope of clarifying some possible misunderstanding that could have arose from reading Kevin post. Calzoni con ricotta a cicoli are as classic as the one with Scarola. The two together, however are not authentic and people off course can do as they please as far as they know that what they are doing is NOT authentic. I have visited the States twice,quite exstensivly, and could see that the word authentic is abused for things that were never conceive back in Naples. That is the root of any "corrective " post that I have written and I will continue to write in the future. I am sorry if this irritates you, but I can assure you that I will continue to do it as far as it continues to protect the knowledge of authentic Neapolitan cusine. Going back to Kevin post, he said that he used Feta (good to make a point about his version) instead of the ricotta cheese , I and many I believe, would have assumed that ricotta then was included in the authentic recipe.... Well, no ricotta is included in Naples with escarole. Off course there is a main version with ricotta (the main Calzone fritto is filled with Ricotta, mozzarella, and Cicoli, which is meat scraps from the production of homemade rendered lard), but pointing out at recipes on the internet would not be a very strong backing about your point (for example the recipe in the link you have included talk about ham instead of Cicoli, whilest if cicoli are not available, an authentic and best substitute would be Salame Napoli). This is even more frustating for me as even in Naples some places start selling calzoni filled with cheeper "Gammon" as Salami would have been to expensive... Christmas pizzette fritte are made with scarola and there is one way to make them. Calzoni in general, could be filled either with scarola etc or with the above ricotta/salame filling. The focaccia type then would have included pinuts and raisins , and here we can say that some people also make it this way when making the filling for small pizzette, but again would not be authentic. Finally, my small point about Bufala Ricotta (which by the way it is available in NYC quite easily), was inspired from a discussion with an old lady on the plane London to Naples, where she mention that the ricotta available abroad and even in other parts of Italy is always the industrial, sand like (her words) stuff. No offence made, but I cannot undertsand why people would argue with someone else making sure that a so easily accesable piece of information contain the right authentic corrections... (for istance someone could have done your google search and found this post and believe that pizzette with scarola in Naples included ricotta... Again have an happy Saint Stefan day. Ciao

Hi Kevin, Well done on the pizzette di scarola. Again I have to point out that No Cheese it is used in the original version (what do you guys have with ricotta everywhere , especially the commercial "granural" stuff). Regarding the raisins and pine nut version, it does indeed exist but more often is made as a "filled focaccia" oven baked, a lard base dough, put in a square pan, topped with the scarola etc filling and topped and sealed with another piece of dough. By the way, in Naples Ricotta means a creamy, most often Bufala milk made, cheese, not the prepacked industrial version. Marry Christmas to you all... Ciao

Very nice! So are we celebrating X-mas early? Actually also if I am not mistaken, both of Schwartz in "Naples at Table" and Kaspar in "Italian Country Table" include ricotta as well. ← Althought I do not agree 100% with Schwartz adaption of the authentic recipe to American ready available ingredients, is book is largely based on the "Bible" of traditional Neapolitan cooking (J.C. Francesconi "La Cucina Napoletana") and the recipe of Gattó di Patate in "Naples at Table" DO NOT (RIGHTLy SO) include ricotta. I know Batali has a great reputation in US, but for what I have seen and read, plus the meal I had at "Il Posto" in NYC, personally I do not think much of his cooking and recipes authenticity (e.g. Jalapeno Chilli pepper with a delicate meat such as crab....). Ricotta IS NOT INCLUDED by anyone in Naples making their Gattó.

Nice looking Gattó. Just one thing: where did you get the info on the inclusion of ricotta??? First time I ever heard it and my Grandunt was a Gattó queen. Ciao

Well, I have recently received the DVD "Decoding Ferran Adria", so yesterday I decdided to warch it. It was great, but it made me even more diappointed to have missed the opportunity to experience it first hand...

Although he does mention the mailard reaction when using the blow torch, the focus at that point was to kill off the germs and bacterias from outside of the meat. I think is a good point as the benefit of low temperature cooking (50C) may be overshadow by food poisoning (a safe temperature would be 63 C and above). Also, in US for example, the Gastrovac has encountered problems with the health official due to low temperature cooking and bacterias... On the other point of his 20 hours cooking... This is easily answered by all the followers of H. McGee, H. This and also Blumenthal early work on slow cooking benefits I really enjoyed the programme.

Marlena, I am from Naples, so I know which places get tourist attention (and prices to reflect that) and which instead are visited by local and have the best value term. The food at l'europeo is just traditional stuff overpriced. I did say it seams excellent, but on the other hand the Pizza is disgusting and that place was born as a Pizzeria first and then a restaurant. Now it is the way around. Anyway, my observation on breads were general, were not referring on what you may o may not have said. There are a lot of publications that state that (about the microflora being unique to San Francisco), so I just use the opportunity to state that. Take care Marco

The Name is "L'EUROPEO di Mattozzi", owned by the Mattozzi family. It is a tourist trap in my opinion, althought the food seam excellent, the Pizzas are very poor, almost disgusting. I is a shame as they have a very old oven built over 70 years ago which at some time may have delivered very good pizza. The prices are too high too for the food level. Pane Cafone is top class in Naples, especially when still coming out od a wood burning oven. The best breads are from Ischia (NA), Montevergine (AV), San Sebastiano (NA) and Montecalvo (AV) that with no offence to anyone, are way better that the San Francisco stuff. By the way, contrary to what people in San Francisco want to believe, the microflora of their dough is also found in Apulia (south Italy), which suggest that the original baker may have brought over a starter from Apulia.... Ciao

Fratelli La Buafala is a chain and also with a good marketing story, which is in fact a lie. they now have branches in MIami and London. I am glad you liked Da Michele. Ciao

I've received my NO, but with a long, polite explenation which I really appreciated. I'll try in the season for last minutes cancellation and if lucky, will get a plane in and out.... By the way, Am I right to assume that El Bulli is closer to Girona Airport rather then Barcelona??? Thanks

By the way, Timh, I have read that you were interested in Baba and you had assumed neapolitan and French version were the same. neapolitan are different and here is a post were I have mentioned it: baba Sorry cannot discuss my recipe

Il Pizzaiolo-Pittsburgh - PA Bettola (this post) Probably Settebello in Las Vegas when they instal the new Oven and have heard good things about Spacca Napoli in Chicago. I believe you are talking about Chris Bianco in Phoenix: For his own admission, he is not trying to do an authentic Pizza Napoletana, jus his own take on Gourmet Wood Fired Pizza. Ciao

I really enjoyed the programme. It is something new for the mass and is not too long. I didn't think that egulleters would watch that programme to learn new recipes.. instead, I think "we" foodies should concentrate on the scientific aspects, to get inspired, not to copy him... Anyway, someone early has mentioned McGee... Let's not forget that Heston got inspired by reading McGee, so I would not put them on the same level... McGee's "On Food and Cooking" has been around for much longer and inspired and taught many chefs and cooks around the world. McGee and Harve This are scientist/writers. Adria, Blumenthal, Gagnaire etc are chefs...

The Standard idea is not bad and there is a second association which is authorised to promote the Pizza Napoletana stg. I am trying to get them involved in USA. I know quite a lot about Tutta Bella, and can say that their pizza is nowhere an Authentic Pizza Napoletana. They use the wrong Oven and an industrial approach for some aspects. Pizza Napoletana is an artisan product

Timh, I would use the word "must" carefully. It is nowhere written that the San Marzano tomatoes must be DOP and in fact noone in Naples use the certified variety. It must be San Marzano's seed varietal tomatoes grown in the Vesuvio area, but many producer do not have the DOP certification and still produce outstanding product. As matter of fact, the ONLY producer using the authentic San Marzano varietal (no the San Marzano 2 Hybrid), is not certified..... The flour is not organic, just "natural" as it doesn't have the additives so comon in US milled flour (Bromated, ascorbic acid etc). Also Natural Yeast (AKA SOurdough starter) CAN be used. Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, at least in US, just seam to be out there to make money, I cannot see their philosophical, protective status for the Authentic Pizza Napoletana, when they do not "require" their members to use an Authentic Neapolitan Pizza Oven (this time really should say "must be the neapolitan one and not jus a wood fired oven) and also allow their members to use Hobarth or other Planetary mixer, which are nowhere "indicated" to make Neapolitan Pizza dough. I am not trying to open an argument but Pizza Napoletana is My Heart... Ciao PS which pizzeria do you own or work in?

I got the book (50% off on Amazon). the series is starting today (I believe) at 20.00 hrs on BBC2 (30 mins show). Not a recipe book (there are few) but an insight on his approach and philosophy of cooking.. (Unami etc...) Unfortunatelly, he decided to cover Pizza Napoletana and due to the source of information, he added himself to the list of writer that made confusion on the subject, my favourite subject... I'll record the whole series anyway...

What about One Paston Place ???

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Menon, Can you expand on that? What was the best pie? what was positive and what was negative about Bettola's pizza in your opinion? Is that something to do with Neapolitan vs NYC style? Thanks

I am going to be in Birmingham in December. Where is the Lakeview area? ← I am not sure, check this out and/or give them a ring: http://www.birminghamweekly.com/archived/p...061026_food.php

Haven't made it there yet. I will be in the neighborhood most of this month, though. the Jaycees have the Haunted House back this year, and I'm a Jaycee. It's only a few blocks away. ← Any news yet?

This is one I made today: Calzone al Forno And this is a cross section (Please note the airy/fluffy crumb):

"BECCAFICO" cannot be caught anymore. It is forbiden by the law, but in some places they still do. It is actually a migratory species and it is not really the Garden Warbler Ciao