magnolia

Andy - please indulge me while I continue farther off the path...I have a strong opinion about this one... "This "system" is a blight on the wine world and it is a great shame that so many Americans appear to put so much in store by it. I must disagree about Parker and Americans. " You may disagree, but this system is far from a blight. I believe the scoring mechanism Parker developed was in fact a response to a previous "blight" - an arcane, impenetrable, confusing, and almost deliberately obfuscatory (is that a word!?) 'system' - or lack thereof - that characterised - and continues to some extent to characterise - the labeling, regulations and description of French wines. In fact this is one of the main things that the French wine industry - which is very fragmented, argumentative and fraught with special interest groups, is trying to address as much as they can in the absence of one voice... The thing about most Americans is that they don't like to appear foolish - and they don't like to be fooled, and they like to know what they are getting. Parker came up with a way for them to "evaluate" - in an ironically objective way (I say ironic because obviously it's subjective, based on one guy's opinion, but objective because it was one of the first stabs at a standard). People who don't know anything about wine can decide if they agree or disagree with his opinion - as can people who know loads about wine. For the former, it gives them a jumping off point and takes the mystery away so they can concentrate on enjoying wine rather than looking over their shoulders to see if someone is sneering at them for their choice. And you know what? It's not just Americans...Parker's book has been translated into several languages. You've probably seen it prominently displayed in the windows of French bookshops..and it's a best seller there. He's even listed in "QUID" - the French book that lists everything/everyone that/who's anything/anyone. As for winemakers who make wine to accommodate Parker's tastebuds and preferences, if this is true so be it...anyone who's tastebuds aren't calibrated to Parker's won't by those wines, and there are probably a lot of people like that - and I have to believe the market will adjust itself accordingly. (Edited by magnolia at 7:31 am on Jan. 26, 2002)

Thank you for this recommendation! I have had a silly prejudice against hotel dining rooms for awhile but the meal I had last night goes a long way toward convincing me otherwise. Scottf and Tony - I hope your recent experiences were an aberration (or else the chef is reading our posts!) - the dining room definitely wasn't full, which is worrying for a Friday night, but they didn't skimp on our meals - at least I don't think they did! I am a healthy eater and I thought my portion of pig's trotter was very generous. I skipped the starter based on your disapointments...and also because I didn't think I'd make it to pudding, always my preferred option :-) The menu may have changed slightly since the previous posts - I don't think there are as many choices as Scott & Samantha had in December (?) - but still enough choice, about one of each item - beef, lamb, rabbit I think, probably a duck or other fowl...a couple of fish including a scallop and herb risotto, a vegetarian samosa (which my friend had), the pig's trotter stuffed with foie gras...and the aforementioned half-bottle of house red (Merlot) or white (Fr. Chard) . Once I got stuck in, I forgot to notice the preparations of the other dishes, sorry! The main menu doesn’t list the puddings so I took a chance that I'd find something I like – and was very happy I saved my appetite. The pig’s trotter stuffed with foie gras was very large, juicy and thick - almost caramelised, served with spinach and red cabbage and it was divine. It was the first time I’ve ever had pig’s trotter. Pudding choices: a plate of cheese; white peach poached in champagne, strawberry Sabayon - yum...my friend had this; a chocolate tart with orange salad; pear souffle; and the one I chose - apple and Calvados frozen souffle, with 'nougatine ice cream' served in a frozen semi-scooped out apple. I'm glad I had this since I won't be having this at La Trouvaille! It was very refreshing after the pig trotter, with the lovely warm jolt of Calvados. They have a small, un-outrageously priced wine list, with nothing heart-stopping - mostly 94’s, 97’s, 98’s, 99’s…about 10 bottles each of sparkling, red & white…and a few dessert wines, with three-four options by glass per category. I asked the waiter to recommend a wine to go with it, and he pointed to a claret, Ch. Cantenac St Emilion – which was on the menu as a bottle - I said ‘but I only want a glass’ and he said ‘no problem.’ Re: the décor – very comfortable, unintimidating – tables are well-spaced, and several have their own little ‘nook’ which is really nice, as you cannot easily see or hear the neighbours, good for privacy and conversation. Beautiful but simple flower arrangements on each table and on the low walls that break up the room. . There was a pianist but he/she was in an adjacent room so the music is more in the background, between the restaurant and the large, hotel lobby which I thought was a really nice touch. The nook we occupied had a plaque on the wall that says “Frederick Forsyth often entertains spies and assassins at this table” – not sure which I would be considered, probably a spy… Re: the crowd, not much of one…on a Friday night. Several hotel guests, Japanese businessmen (the hotel is a Nikko), a few couples. The whole meal – two courses, bottle of water, a glass each of wine from the menu (in addition to the complimentary wine, of which we didn’t really take much advantage, about a glass and a half each) and a generous tip – the menu states “we don’t include tip because we feel it should be a reward for good service” – came to £30 apiece. I expect my standard, samey Chinese meal tonight will cost nearly that. Go back - or go for the first time - before the chef moves on!

Marc - Loved that story about the valet and your nieces! Next time I'll try Meurice. Jaybee - I will have to try avenue, as good HC in NYC is hard to find. Have you tried City Bakery where they 'make their own marsmallows' (I didn't even know you could make a marshmallow without a chemistry lab) Jason - As for euros...you're right, they do look like gelt. Guess it's because they're so shiny, as they've just gone into circ it will take time for them to get the soil of the masses on them. They aren't confusing on their own - what's confusing is the dual circulation, payment in one currency and change in another with a totally different peg - and the fact that each country has its own which - as much as I love Europe - I have to say is one of the most ludicrous ideas anyone ever came up with. If 11+ nations can't even agree on what to put on a bunch of coins, how will you get them to agree on the larger issues required to make EMU work as it's meant to!?

Steve you could not be more wrong about points one and three.... ...unless I wasn't clear about point one, re: unfamiliarity with Euros. Nobody's having problems figuring out the exchange rate - they're having trouble figuring out what coins to use, how to make sure they're giving/getting the correct change, etc - this includes natives! In every country - France included - there are now four ways of paying. Euro notes, coins, legacy notes and legacy coins. Francs (and lire, pesetas, kroner, deutschmarks, etc.) now co-exist with euros, so it's conceivable that at any given time, you will have a fistful of both. Thus retailers may receive francs as payment, put them in a separate money drawer, and make change in euros. They are also rounding up which makes it difficult to figure out if you're getting the right change: I paid for my pariscope in francs - it cost 2,62 francs or 40 euros - with 3 francs and received NO change, though 2.62 francs is technically .46 euros, so I should have received .06 euros change. You try and figure that out in three seconds. Have you ever seen Euros? They may have nearly the same exchange rate as dollars - but they look nothing like dollars - nor do they look like francs, lire, or anything else you've ever seen. And for each euro coin - of which there are eight denominations - there are 11 possible "b" sides (12 if you count the Vatican version) I'm not a math person but that looks to me like 96 new coins that everyone has to get used to. Imagine you were on a European tour, and had gone to two or three countries and were trying to sort out how to pay for your croissant & coffee in France, for which the bill now says : 19.68 FF / 3 euros, and you may have a pocketful of francs, French euros, Belgian euros and Finnish euros. Not so easy. As for point 2 re: Rumplemeyers, thanks for setting me straight...I had no idea of the Rumpelmeyers/Angelina alliance. Though I remember Rumpelmeyers as fondly as I did Angelina until last weekend, and if it is still in NYC I shall be sure not to visit lest it ruin my memories. As for your third point - of course tourism is down everywhere, and this the very reason why there is no excuse for a queue at the door of an empty restaurant - and a very good reason for tourist-dependent destinations (and let's face it, that's what Angelina's is) to welcome tourists with open arms and be as nice to them as possible - as was the case with the hotel I stayed in (upgraded me to a suite for free and gave me lots of freebies for no reason except to encourage me to return on my next visit) and every other restaurant I went to in Paris...instead of treating customers like rubbish, making them wait without explanation - and insulting them. (Edited by magnolia at 1:06 pm on Jan. 24, 2002)

It pains me to report that Angelina is now just a shadow of its former grand old self...at least it was on Saturday January 19 at around 3PM The hot chocolate is still great...if you don't mind waiting for 1/2 hour for it (I'm not kidding), in a dusty, shabby, sad room with one surly waitress/maitre d' who moves at the pace of an 'escargot' and fairly screamed at some Japanese tourists who were having trouble figuring out the Euros (who isn't?) and one frenzied, hassled waitress who seems to bear the brunt of the work when it became obvious that the first was not going to be of much help. Only about 10 of the tables had people, yet everyone who showed up was made to wait for a seat until the maitre d' could be bothered to show them to a table; then 10 minutes for the menu; then 10 more minutes before taking an order; then ?? until food was served. When served, it was fine - even divine HC - but I won't go back until I hear things are different. My very superficial and uninformed assessment: - Angelina must occupy one of the highest rent properties around; - Not sure if they still make their own pastries but perhaps not - It's having serious financial difficulties and staffing problems - Seriously resting on its reputation... Noticed that the products were co-branded 'Angelina - Rumpelmeyers (is that still around? have Angelina & Rumpelmeyers had a partnership for a long time?) Anyone else have any insight as to how to save this formerly wonderful institution? (Edited by magnolia at 7:18 am on Jan. 24, 2002)

Wow!!! Considering the fierce competition for stages in just those very kitchens, you must be pretty accomplished already. In fact I just met a young Australian with eight years' experience in some of Sydney's top kitchens who was marching himself around Paris with a CV and letters of recommendation, trying to get a stage. I just read "Burgundy Stars" by Bill Echikson, well worth reading if you haven't already..The book is 5-6 years old but speaks highly of Marc Meneau, and Vezelay would be a nice place to spend a week. I'd stay out of any of JG's places unless you get a guarantee that he's on hand, as he has a multi-location empire right now and probably travels from place to place.

Ah...a perpetual challenge because I always want to maximise my time in Paris, and end up booking a late train back...and then I remember that it's not so easy to find something to do on Sunday other than a museum. French people eat home on Sundays so any place that's open will be somewhat touristy. Some suggestions...Rue Mouffetard (metro Monge) has a small market so you can do last-minute food shopping. But the restaurants around there that are open are indeed tourist traps. Rue Grenelle also has a market on Sunday mornings, and nearby is a good restaurant that at least used to be open on Sunday and may still be: La Cave de l'Os a Moelle. 181 rue de Lourmel (15th) . 01-45-57-28-28. Definitely book because it only fits about six people!Service is buffet style, no choice...When I went, we had various house pates & bread and some fresh shellfish as starters; a hearty meat stew or similar for the main, cheeses, yoghurt, bread, pudding & coffee - and you buy wine from the shelf. It's owned by a chef who has a fancier place across the street (L'os a Moelle). The other place I've been to that's open on Sunday is L'ambassade d'Auvergne on rue du Grenier St. Lazare 0142723122 Hotel bars are a good bet - lower key than hotel restaurant, still good food. But yes there will be tourists.

"One lobster with pasta, hold the lobster" as Jack Nicholson might have said. Hmmm...if memory serves, that's not exactly what Jack Nicnolson might have said! Unless we're both thinking of a different film - or unless you're thinking (probably rightly so) that this is a *family* site...so what Jack actually said is too rude to post!

..I guess I do let *my* enthusiasm for certain places dictate what I suggest, even to total strangers. When I find a place I like, I want everyone to give it at least one go...perhaps so it stays in business...and it's there the next time I want to go. Not that I have much to worry about right this moment with La Regalade, but you get my drift. Anyway these folks seemed predisposed to trying it.

Looking for suggestions, advice, do's and don'ts...am going at the end of January.

Scott & Sam if you still have no luck getting through to La Regalade, let me know & I will give it a try - I'm in the same time zone and can be very persistent, if only because I think you really must eat there! Let me know several dates/times (as you know you'll have better luck if not a Friday or Saturday but we can always hope) and/or if you would like to be on a waiting list, and where best the restaurant can reach you, etc. And also your surname (if you'd prefer to send this by email to me directly my email is magnolia123@hotmail.com)

La Regalade is indeed as good..and as good value as ever. But it's about the diametric opposite of L'Astrance in terms of atmosphere, presentation of food and general 'esprit.' Whereas L'Astrance is an oasis of calm and quiet, with wide spaces between table and attentive service, paced to let you linger...and dainty portions...La Regalade is brash and loud, smoky and crowded...with a more frenetic pace and huge portions of hearty food. If you can't get into L'Astrance but want that kind of experience, Arpege is the original...and I think it's a bit larger.

Down & Out in Paris & London is one of my favorite books! Back to the discussion of GR...for Christams, someone gave my B-friend his latest coffee table book, over which we duly slobbered. Is there anywhere beside Claridge's where we might sample his cooking without the fuss, humiliation and rip-offism described so feverishly herewith and on The Other Board...? Or is that the only place he's currently in attendance?

In reply to Stella Bella, it's actually 55 Britton Street - it's a bit tricky to find but this shortcut will help you avoid a longish walk. Turn left out of Farringdon tube (there's only one exit) then sharp left onto Turnmill Street. Almost immediately across the road (Turnmill) is an alley - I think it's called Benjamin Street. Careful not to get hit by speeding motorcycles or taxis. Then take a left onto Britton Street, and Jerusalem Tavern will be a few yards up the road, on the other side of the street. I'm not a beer fan but it definitely has loads of atmosphere, and the sandwiches are wonderful. I'm told the original "old Jerusalem" pub was on the ground floor of the medieval arch in St John's Square.

"One intends to sell his bottles, but the sensible one is looking for suggestions as how best to consume the precious liquids, especially that first bottle." Actually the one who intends to sell his Lafite is the sensible one! Better to do this while there is still a big demand and before the market turns south. The one who intends to drink his Lafite runs the risk of major disappointment. It's too early to drink the '82's!!! Another 10 years at least for the Lafite That said, the Figeac should be lovely just about now.... If you're in the UK, I know someone who will gladly unload your Lafite :-) for the right price...

I'm glad for once the critics are divided. They usually move en masse , which is extremely frustrating - what's the point of a critic anyway if not to render an opinion? I am surprised Meades was unpleasant - that's usually AA GIll's territory - but as a whole, I find the critics with the possible exception of Meades and Rayner - to be sheeplike in their coverage - they all go to the same places probably within days of each other and it almost seems as if they read each others' reviews so they can corroborate. Readers should try a few of the places that a critic reviews favorably to determine if that critic has the same taste as the reader...and if they disagree with the critic, follow a different critic's recommendation.

Not to put too fine a point on it, but I don't think that "four men" were the only reason for the closing...have you heard of a little thing called Foot and Mouth disease? It has DECIMATED the UK tourism industry - both local and international. You said there were only three covers in February...you had your preview of the dire situation that many restaurants outside London are in right there. In the long run, it will have far more impact than terrorism. Not to mention all the other problems the UK is experiencing, such as major issues with the rail travel infrastructure, and a low-grade recession threatening to go higher grade...

Correction to my previous message - Rosie - can you look into what they are selling for, retail, in the US? I can find out what they're selling for in UK and Australia and that will help evaluate whether they are a decent buy (once I know whether the years were any good)

Eileen Hardy Shiraz is BRL Hardy's highest end wine, they are pitching for investment grade and going head-to-head with Southcorp's Penfolds range. To whit: they have taken steps to ensure the wine cannot be faked by adding DNA to the ink on the labels, which can be authenticated using a scanner. BRL's other wines are very drinkable and fairly priced. Not an expert on years...I believe they are just about to release their '98's. I will ask around. Meanwhile, I'm curious what they are selling for? Might help me when I query my sources as to whether they are best drunk now, or likely to increase in value.

I just reread my post and there were so many typos you'd think I was drunk when I wrote it! Is there a way to go back & correct typos?

a bit of a tangent I guess, but reminds me of one of my first dates with my boyfriend who is a good cook - it was my job to make the tarte au citron which was meant to complement the wine, and I was really scared to screw it up. I have never made pastry before - this recipe needed shortbread pastry rather than puff. Frozen wouldn't do. After deliberating and agonising for a few days, I went to St John Bakery (Clerkenwell, London) with my own pie tin, and talked them into doing the crust for me. Then I took it home and made the filling. Worked a treat!

Back from Lille..comparisons with Brussels are accurate. What a beautiful city, seems like there's a lot going on as well. The arhictecture is varied and interested, and of course...there are patisseries every two steps. First stop was "Meert" (I left the address at home but it's the most famous one, and not far from the tourist office...in fact..everything is not far from the tourist office) where they have these fantastic "gauffres" maison - thin, waffle-y wafers with vanilla cream. Very addictive. Then took a short tour of the city with a very animated guide...well worth the time, and it was very inexpensive. Showed us where the buildings of interest are. Then we ended up at a restaurant called La Compostelle on rue St Etienne, which was pretty but the food was disappointing. I was really looking forward to the dessert, which was a gratin of peaches in caramel...and I think the peaches were canned! The choice of restaurant was a toss-up between la Huitriere and La Compostelle, both of which came highly recommended. I'm not a *huge* seafood fan but next time I'd try the latter. Plus we saw some really promising-looking places as we were walking around. The weather was so nice we didn't go into any museums, though I imagine Lille is the kind of city that goes all out for Christmas and I plan to go back. If you have a chance to stop for a few hours in Lille via Eurostar, it's well worth it. There's a left-luggage place in the Eurostar station, and everything of interest to first-timers is within walking distance of the station.

Would love more detail on these...i.e. registration process, costs, etc. Can you point me in the right direction?

Any/all recommendations - or anti-recommendations are welcome! Thanks!