magnolia

Le Gavroche has had a table for two available on (very) short notice twice in the last five weeks...

I liked Passard's dessert - I thought it was light and refreshing and unusual. But I am almost certain the reason it is so famous is down to the presentation - and the amount of flourish and tableside work involved is really disproportionate to the 'pay-off'. By way of comparison, the cappucino'd egg that he serves in its shell - prepared in the kitchen - is far more complex and involved a dish - and it shows (I've seen the recipe and it would make me tear my hair out)...whereas the tomato is basically a roasted tomato poached in orange juice and a bunch of spices. On a related note, I was turned on to savoury ice creams after having olive oil ice cream at La Trouvaille with the UK egullet gang. I have tried making it at home myself, and it tastes good on the same day, it doesn't freeze well (I guess unsurprisingly, the olive oil separates from the custard when the two get too cold). Anyone have suggestions for savoury ice creams they have made themselves? And...on a separate note, I always thought a citron vert was a lime; is a green lemon something different?

Simon, thanks very much - interesting, honest and fun to read. Now...Vas'y! BACK TO WORK!!!

These days, flâneur means "poser". Enough said.

What a sign of the times that Locanda is booked solid for three months...but you can still get a res. at Le Gavroche for this weekend ! For Italian: Enoteca on Putney High Street is really, really good - interesting, well priced and well-executed dishes and a great wine list; Del Bongustaio (nearby, on Putney Bridge Road) used to be good - I haven't been there in about a year and a half. I hear good things about The Phoenix (also in Putney, funnily enough) now has Italo-leanings...

Good to hear it's still up there. I remember thinking a few weeks ago that even though each dish wasn't expensive on an individual basis, I was pretty shocked by the final bill. I think the charm and insouciance factor goes a long way - i.e. as we've discussed, it really seems like a bunch of guys who love food and are doing their best to provide diners with a fun, informal dining experience. They always seem to find a place for walk-ins, and they make no pretense about adhering to the standard restaurant/diner conventions (as borne out by your observation that 'we don't know what the hell we will offer when we change the menu', where another restaurant might have said 'we will not reveal our closely guarded menu secrets to you, you lowly client! Keep going!

The maitre d' is definitely not humble. But I thought it was kind of refreshing to find someone so starry-eyed about his employer, and he obviously loves his job. We did have a chat - one of the benefits of having such a small restaurant is that once everyone is seated (at lunch, anyway) there is lots of time for him to go from table to table, checking on people and talking to anyone who is interested (i.e. me). We chatted about what was on the site before, the H. empire, and some pie-in-the-sky plans about maximising the space. For example, there are offices upstairs that could be put to better (i.e. revenue-generating) use if they could figure out a way to open them up to the public, but this would mean adding another entrace or having people traipse through the restaurant on their way upstairs which I think is probably a design no-no when it comes to Michelin. - re: Citronella - isn't that what you light to keep mosquitoes away?! - magazine article: yes, the Pudlowksi one from Saveurs (which is remarkably similar to US Saveur in design - do you know if there's a connection? also, what other French food / wine mags do you think are worth reading?) - thanks for the translator thing. By the way, I have been looking for a good site or dictionary or food and cooking terms. For example, I have a French duck recipe that says "Pouponnez le canard". My dictionary translates "pouponner" as "to mother". I have a pretty good idea of how French people think/speak, but this one's a real stumper. Thoughts? As for the Mju comparison, the plates at Mju are definitely smaller - but there are many more of them. Tasting menu for lunch at £25 (when I last ate there) includes five; dinner at £50 includes eight. The attention to detail, ingredients, creativity, presentation, etc. is comparable though perhaps H. has more costly ingredients. So on food only, I think Mju represents much better value. When you add wine, of course the sky's the limit - at either place. I just thought that Mju's selection was much more inventive and interesting, a genuine effort to find something truly special to go with the food. Just one person's perception, however, and I claim no real expertise. As for feeling full, etc. - I'd just say neither of these places would satisfy the 'hungry man/lumberjack' test. l didn't leave either place 'stuffed', a feeling that I don't like anyway but I don't have much willpower, so it's largely my own fault if I leave stuffed...' but I wasn't hungry, either. I hate to be stuffed at lunch in France, anyway, because it means I won't be hungry for dinner :-)...opportunity cost, you know. Plus as H. is right around the corner from Berthillon...you get the picture...though NB: Berthillon is closed for the school hols.

Andy in fact I'd argue that almost every single trader at Boroguh Market is taking the piss in terms of price - but I guess I'm comparing again with France or even the US, which I guess it not fair but it's shocking, considering that England produces so much of its own. It's true the variety, abundance and availability of what we consider "rare" is unparalleled. But there are no bargains, surely (except perhaps, in fact, Ginger Pig) - mainly because I think there's very little competition. The one thing the traders at Borough do offer is pretty good customer service, in that if you call them during the week, they do set things aside for you or bring something 'special' - the fishy folks, particularly. Again I think it's a matter of supply and demand...I'm resigned to the fact that present company excluded, there's just not much demand. Standards and expectations are generally pretty low so most visitors are happy to take what they can get; so the 'supply' for those who've raised the bar a bit higher are bound to be critical. Still, we can only keep waving the flag... Does Brighton have anything comparable?

No reason to apologise. Thursdays 12-18h00 - NB only a few proprietors Friday 12-18h00 - most proprietors Saturday 9-16h00 - fullest complement of proprietors Also, not all companies are there every week - if you go, at least one of the people from the "london's larder" office is usually walking around, and can give you a brochure with more comprehensive info on who's who, who's where, and when...

BLH - I've been dying to ask...where does 'jings, crivens & help ma boab' come from...?

Andy -- If you noticed, were there any cooked items involving Old Spot or other rare breeds (e.g., ham; chops that had been cooked)? C - The Ginger Pig sells only 'raw' Gloucester OS. and other breeds in ham, bacon, etc. format, as far as I can remember, BUT they might make something up for you in advance if you call ahead to orderr (like a whole ham or something, for a party, if that's what you have in mind) as I do recall they had cooked items around Christmas time. I'm not sure what counts as a rare breed, there are people who sell ostrich steaks (and eggs and feather dusters); venison; mutton; fowl; and other "meats" - but again, uncooked cuts. But there is always someone cooking sausage or something else on site...

Sorry I haven’t posted on this yet – It has been nuts since returning, and I wanted to do it justice. I was indeed there for the first day of the Spring menu. I didn't know the menu was posted ! so my attempts at translating may miss the mark slightly - still, it is interesting to see what, exactly, I ate...some of differs slightly from what's listed. Don't know whether this means that they hadn't fully decided what to offer, or whether the menu is just a 'guide'. Anyway, here's my "review". I have annotated slightly with benefit of Cabrales's post of the menu... I had lunch at H. last Tuesday, April 16 (?) a perfect Paris day - warm and sunny – that seemed to bring out the best in people. As mentioned, I’d reserved for two as a precaution, and in fact I almost coaxed a friend to join me but he chickened out at the potential time he thought it would take. So un-French of him. But in fact, he needn’t have worried, because the service was such – and the number of diners so small and so lacking in ‘you are but the lowly diner’ attitude - that I am sure they would have accommodated his busy schedule. So I showed up on my own, with a French foodie magazine to read, and was greeted by name by the (very young, and charmant) French maitre d’. As it happened, Tuesday was 1) the first day of Hiramatsu’s new “Printemps” (Spring) menu, and 2) one of the few days when Hiramatsu happened to be in town, and thus in the kitchen. Décor is simple and sophisticated: a wonderful bouquet of lilies in the tiny entrance vestibule; bright bouquets on each table; exposed stone wall, comfortable stitched leather chairs… nothing superfluous, but not minimalist or impersonal either. There ar currently three ‘menu’ options on offer (my notes are sketchy so some of this may be slightly off-base,but it gives the general idea): 1) Menu d’affaires for €46, which includes three predetermined courses, either mini or half-portions (I didn’t catch this) of one each of the starters; fish; and desserts (which is probably a full portion) 2) Menu dégustation, for €92, which includes half-portions of the same starter and fish as above, plus a second starter; a meat course; a cheese course; and the same dessert as above. 3) Standard à la carte (full portions of starters go from €38 – 46 ; fish from €34 – 68; meat from €40-42; cheese (I neglected to write the price down) and desserts from about €15 - €20 Wine, coffee, water – all separate. I chose the menu dégustation because I thought that this represented the best value for the money, and since it was lunch I thought half-portions would be fine. I let the sommelier choose wines, I gave him free reign to pick anything he thought would go best with the dishes. I said I wanted at least two, possibly three (i.e. a wine with cheese or dessert) The pre-meal amuse-bouche consisted of three shot glasses of mousse – one of fava beans, a purée with one full bean on top; a mousse of mango and ginger; and one of gelée de canard. I thought that moussing the lowly fava bean was a perfect example of what an amuse-bouche should be, smooth and “neutral” tasting – sort of an experiment to see whether it would be worthwhile to include it as a full dish some time in the future? Anyway, it proved a good predecessor to the duck, which was very earthy and rich, and the third, very refreshing. This course brought to mind one of the courses I’d had a few months ago at Tetsuya Wakuda’s Mju restaurant in London, and it wasn’t the last similarity between the two (favourable, I might add). My first ‘official’ course was a roasted pavé de foie gras with tiny cubes of eggplant, with a sauce of ‘truffled’ balsamic vinegar and paper thin slices of citronelle (I didn't recognise this topping as lemongrass, as it more resembled a candied slice of fruit, rather than a leaf or blade, as if a lemon had been sliced horizontally somewhere through the middle and then candied ...but what do I know?). The eggplant had been soaked in sugar (or something to this effect) until they resembled apples in texture and sweetness – in fact I would not have known it was eggplant at all, so mellow was the flavor. Yummy, if a bit stingy in size…even if the portion were doubled. The wine chosen for this was a 1998 Chablis from Duplessis, which was pleasantly citrussy and metallic, with th smoothness of butter. It complemented the amuse-bouche but was a bit overwhelmed by the foie gras. I had only a couple of sips left by the time my next dish arrived… …was a generous hunk of Breton lobster in broth, with caviar mousse and pureed fennel. The mousse was fantastic – resembling a very intensely flavoured, high-falutin’ taramasalata. I’m not a huge fennel fan, but this was so smooth and buttery that it had lost its bitterness completely. For me, this was actually the standout dish of the meal and if it’s available next time I go, I’d order it à la carte. Once again, I was reminded of Mju in terms of the presentation and interesting combination of flavours. My fish course was goujonettes of sole and langoustines, with a couple of tiny mussels, over green asparagus, all in a seafood sauce (côte à côte - sort of in a tic tac toe pattern - I've no idea why this is necessary to the description of the dish, it has nothing to do with the taste an everything to do with presentation - maybe they describe it thus to indicate that the asparagus arrives in spears rather than cut up, pureed or whatever). . Again, this is not something I would have chosen – sole is too bland for me – but it was nice enough, and so beautifully presented. With the sole, I was served a glass of medoc – a Chateau Loustaneuf, also 1998. Good but nothing spectacular. In fact I’d say that if the Breton lobster starter was the standout, the choice of wine was the let-down. Both were pleasant, and at €9 and €11, respectively, they didn’t break the bank. But I never mentioned price, and with a list that was supposed to be outstanding - and a sommelier dedicated to only 18 diners, I was really surprised at the lack of creativity here. Mju, which has no stars (possibly in part because its list is 75% new world? Not sure how Michelin views this) does a really creditable job of picking wine to go with odd and difficult flavours. I think the sommelier at H. may have played it way too safe. Next up was part of a rack of lamb, in a watercress cream sauce, with a single raviolo of “foie gras de chèvre” , anyway, I would not have known it wasn’t a foie gras de canard or d’oie. (OK - I see the translation, but I don't think there was any cheese in the raviolo. I think it was just liver. Cheese and liver together...? I don't know how I'd feel about that...,) Penultimate course was cheese, à volonté, though I exercised more willpower than usual – honestly, I just love cheese and could live happily on it (but I neglected to write them down, by this time I was well and truly giddy). To top it off, at this point, H. was making the rounds and introducing himself to diners, and as he approached me, I had just come to a page in my magazine in which the restaurant was reviewed. This was a total coincidence in that I had no idea it was in the magazine, and Hiramatsu and the sommelier were both pictured. I had one of those ‘art imitates life’ moments. He was very smiley, friendly and gracious. Over my dessert (followed by coffee and four chocolates) – a savarin (resembles a madeleine in shape and texture) of “agrumes” (which I understand now are citrus fruits, but I’m not sure which ones) with crème chantilly made with citrus and cognac (no rum in mine), and a shot glass of bitter chocolate sorbet – I queried the maitre d’ about the restaurant, its clientele, etc. He told me that the restaurant won’t make money for ‘awhile’, that it’s a labour of love. There are 17 staff for 18 diners. Also that 90% of the customers are American – that Ile St Louis itself is like a little American colony, and borne out by the fact that throughout the meal, whenever the phone rang, he reverted immediately to English. Also several people stopped by to try for reservations, and they were Americans (so who says Americans are not flying these days? Maybe these were all locals). Indeed every table bar one had at least one American, though the diners across from me were three very elegantly dressed Japanese ladies. One table of four never showed up, and went unfilled – but supposedly the restaurant is fully booked for dinner through the end of May. Overall, a thoroughly pleasant experience. I left sated but not stuffed, perfect for lunch, and I am glad I went.- though I think it was a bit outrageously priced at €140+ all in. However I don’t think this would do for a hungry person, and if you ordered off the menu, you couldn’t get out of there for much less than €200. I believe the menu is the same at dinner, and there were definitely things I would love to have tried. Would I go back? Maybe if I have a windfall or if someone offers…but I do think Mju is a very comparable experience, and much better value.

As of this review (undated, however) Embassy is indeed where Hollihead is...this is from Square Meal, not really a guide but a listing. Address 29, Old Burlington Street, W1X 3AN Tel 020 7437 9933 Email sabera@embassybarandgrill.com Price £42.00 Wine £13.50 Champagne £32.00 Embassy opened at the beginning of December to wide early praise, with opinion ranging from 'good' to 'brilliant'. The reintroduction of Gary Hollihead (ex-Mortons, L'Escargot and Sutherlands) to the culinary mainstream following less high-brow stints at Sugar Reef and Red Cube is certainly good news for foodies, as his cooking never fails to demonstrate depth and technical sophistication. Here his approach fits neatly into a relatively formal, classical canon, balancing delicacy with ample levels of robustness. An understated cauliflower and truffle soup packs a lusciously flavourful punch while monkfish tail garnished with onions, potatoes and winter vegetables is delightfully muscular and finished with creamed spinach and an oxtail jus. Portions, if anything, are over-generous, which is a pity if it means little room is left for a dessert such as rice pudding jubilee served with a cherry compôte. The main dining-room, which is run separately to the über-fashionable club below, is seductive and contemporary, overlooking the same street as neighbouring Cecconis, and the staff are obviously knowledgeable and well versed. Looks set to do well.

OK you guys are oldier and fogier than I ever imagined. I don´t know what it takes to please you, but you must lighten up or you will have no fun, ever. I have said many times that London is short on good food and good value. London is no Paris or New York when it comes to restaurants, with the vast variety of excellent and relatively inexpensive places, But SOS second floor falls into this rare category, if any place does. I ate there last week and was more than satisfied with the food, the prices and the service. Tables are far enough apart that noise should not be an issue. I can´t recall if they had music on at all. We had three 10 oz perfectly cooked steaks (i.e. all three were cooked exactly the way the diners requested) plus just the right amount of thick cut, not greasy chips and one veal main, two starters (shared) which were a generous portion of chicken liver pate ("parfait" or whatever) and grilled polenta something or other and a very decent bottle of Shiraz if I recall correctly (I thought I posted this already) and we got out of there for under 20 GPB a head (I think there were two bottles of water as well). The service was friendly but not slimy, and one of the party asked loads of questions which were expertly answered (no "I´ll have to get back to you). Except for the gimmicky way they list the prices (i.e .three pounds, 4 and a half pounds) It is about as far from pretentious as you an get without going to McD´s. I have eaten on the top floor, and found it way overpriced but I wasn´t paying so it only hurt in a righteously indignant sort of way. But it was delicious, filling and good wine list. IT reminded me of an upmarket steak house in New York with waiters that are about 50 years younger. The downstairs (where I have not eaten but it looks like they must have great breakfast= is something of a meat market at night but they serve drinks made with fresh squeezed juices so it is worth it to go just for that.

Well, so you know for next time: I usually won't consider anything that doesn't have chocolate in it, but for some reason, I'm addicted to St John's eccles cakes. Buttery, flakey, cakes the size of a small doughnut, densely packed with raisins (I think), cloves and other spices, and possibly another fruit...I've never actually asked. They also sometimes have really good chocolate chip cookies, but their brownies are not that great though. In fact the only good brownies I've had in London are from Eat and Little Red Barn (which is wholesale and mail order only). I like chocolatey, fudgy brownies and most of the ones I find here are dry and flavourless even though they look really promising...torture.

No worries, I respect that you cancelled it- I do the same. As for Hiramatsu, I've been advised they are indeed about to change the menu - and may even have done so by Tuesday. I will let you know!

I was just there - I must have just missed you (though I admit I wasn't paying much attention) - I went to buy some bread and an eccles cake (there were none alas) and salivate over the bar menu - my usual post-gym routine. I was the one who looked...well, post-gym (red face, wet hair).

Thanks for the heads up! Hiramatsu confirms they no longer do a menu d'affaires, but that they will have a 'menu degustation' for 'environs 92 euros'. Anyway, as luck (?) would have it, someone has offered to take me to dinner at the restaurant of my choice on Saturday night so I tried to upgrade my Hiramatsu lunch to a dinner but of course they are full and have long liste d'attente. So...is the offer of Maison Blanche still on, or have you cancelled?

This is gracious and appropriate, and it sounds like they are serious about fuilfilling your expectations - hope it works out so you actually get to take advantage of the gift rather than ask for a refund. Keep us posted!

OK, I got another assignment so that I decided to take the Hiramatsu plunge next week. I have lunch reservations for Tuesday. I did the sneaky thing and reserved for two not knowing whether I'll be able to cajole someone into spending that kind of time or money for lunch...or whether I'll be on my own. (of course I will let them know ahead if I am just one, but I would hope that would not change the seating plan or anything else...to whit: Normally I really don't mind eating on my own but I would appreciate any insight you might have as to what I'm likely to encounter (their email to me confirming a res. for 2 was so sweet I hope I am not met with frosty attitude if I am one!) , I probably will order two-three wines by the glass rather than a bottle - to see what they come up with. Anyway, whatever I get paid to write this story might just about cover lunch :-)

Report ASAP ! I may be going to Lyon this weekend...and would love up-to-the-minute advice.

That letter could not have been from THE Alistair Cooke. First of all, it's much too short. Second, it sticks to the point without deviating.

Cabrales - I don't think I'll take you up on your kind offer of a reservation at La Maison Blanche - I think we will try to go to Lyons for the weekend after all. But thanks!

Is H. open for lunch, and if so, how much do you think lunch would set me back?

At this point it sounds as if you have tried all reasonable avenues. Of course the goal is to schedule time in a restaurant of your choice and have some fun and enjoy the programme, etc. without any of the hassle or having to complain. BUT - if ultimately you feel you have been as accommodating as possible (and you should not have to be) and this is turning out to be more of a hassle than something to look forward to, if the rep you mentioned, and the org's office as Peter suggested, don't yield any satisfaction 1) decide what you want - a refund or a guaranteed spot in a restaurant where the chef you want to work with is in residence - guaranteed or all your money back including airfare etc. or whatever 2) write a letter to The New YorkTimes travel section and/or one of the travel magazines' "ombudsman" sections (I can't recall which one has this). You might include in this the fact that you have discovered just how little time the 'name' chefs spend in their own kitchens (why not cc the restaurant sections of the newspapers too for good measure? That's probably a lot mor bad publicity than they want... This should do the trick pretty fast. But you need to call the shots now, i.e. you must have an idea of what would satisfy you.