LindaK
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Posts posted by LindaK
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The first peanut sauce I ever made--and still a personal favorite--was a simple Indonesian recipe from Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby's cookbook, Thrill of the Grill. Over the years, I've made others and it took me a while to figure out why their recipe stood out:
It calls for roasted, unsalted peanuts, not peanut butter. And since at the time, I could only find roasted salted peanuts, I bought plain, unsalted peanuts and toasted them myself in the oven for a bit, shaking the tray occasionally to toast them somewhat evenly. For a few minutes of easy work, there's a big difference in flavor as well as texture.
Sure, I use peanut butter now and then, but if I really want my guests to fight over the last of the peanut sauce, I roast the peanuts myself.
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it can strech like nothing I have ever seen, I strech it by hand untill it is transparent, a bit more than 9 in a pasta machine, and strech it to the size of a whole table from just half a litter size piece.
I would love to see photos of this process.
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Salt cod niçoise, if such a dish exists.
It started as a traditional salad of salt cod, potatoes, and green beans—the final harvest from my garden this season, I’m afraid. Then I added the last of my cherry tomatoes. Finally some olives and arugula, parsley and chives. Why not? Whatever you call it, it was easy and delicious. A nice transition from summer to fall.
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Since I've said nice things about this book on the past, I feel obliged to revisit it, especially recipes like the gateau d'aubergine that I remember as being really good. So here's the original, sort of. I had access only to small eggplants, so the skins weren't large enough to cover the length of a full size pan. So instead I made petits gateaux using individual ramekins. Voilà!
I didn't have the extra red pepper to make the coulis, though it's quite good. Mostly I was hungry. So for speed, as well as contrasting color and acidity, I sautéed some of the cherry tomatoes that are taking over my garden. Not as elegant but it was very tasty.
I followed the recipe precisely, though once I got started I remembered some of the tweaks that I'd adopted long ago when I made this with some regularity (1) use more eggplant pulp than the recipe indicates. You get a silkier and more flavorful result. (2) seeds: if you find yourself with large eggplants with large seeds, use a food mill to separate the pulp. it wasn't an issue this time, though I did pull out a few clumps of seeds before I puréed the mixture. (3) also, be sparing with the ground cardamom. Taste before adding the full amount. If yours is fresh and strong, it can overwhelm.
If you're wondering what the inside looks like, with its little flecks of roasted red pepper:
I've never tried to weave the eggplant skins into a lattice. They're never long enough, plus, I would fear that it would be awfully thick to eat, even if it is pretty. I've been happy enough to simply line the molds with strips.
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How do you cook a whale?
A frittata was my answer to the big zucchini gifted to me by a fellow gardener.
it's quick and simple, but there are a few tricks so it doesn't turn out watery. For the whales, scoop/cut out the seeds. No matter the size, pan fry slices in some butter before adding eggs. A bit of browning adds flavor and it evaporates some of the moisture that can make zucchini dishes soggy.
There's grated parmesan in there, it's a good match for the zucchini. Served with roma beans from my garden.
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Everything but dill (and I am not a fan). Served with a red pepper paste. Very tasty. Thank you.
These look absolutely amazing. Checking 'fridge for ingredients.....Lunch today was Turkish zucchini fritters. Recipe from the Sultan's Kitchen. Simple but oh so good.
grated zucchini, salted to rid of excess water. eggs, flour, parsley, dill, crumbled feta, salt and pepper. Fried by the large spoonful. Serve with a squeeze of lemon and some Greek yogurt, if you'd like.
Red pepper, nice! With apologies, I see that I forgot scallions from the ingredient list. Worth remembering next time. As for the dill, I'm not a fan either, but somehow only a tablespoon or so of chopped dill really adds another dimension.
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Lunch today was Turkish zucchini fritters. Recipe from the Sultan's Kitchen. Simple but oh so good.
grated zucchini, salted to rid of excess water. eggs, flour, parsley, dill, crumbled feta, salt and pepper. Fried by the large spoonful. Serve with a squeeze of lemon and some Greek yogurt, if you'd like.
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This cookbook was inspirational for me when I bought it 20 years ago, back when I was immersing myself in French cuisine and first taking cooking seriously in general. It introduced me to celeriac and chard, convinced me to try turnips. The eggplant recipes in particular were favorites, especially the gateau d'aubergines. I haven't cooked from it for a long while, though. I remember tweaking some of the recipes but I don't recall any disasters.
One of the things I liked about the book are the tips and informal recipes scattered throughout--using otherwise-discarded cauliflower stalks to make soup, use dried celeriac peelings to make home-made celery salt, etc.
I never tried that courgette recipe, but the photo shows a relatively dry dish, no liquid. If I can find some pearl onions I'll test it. too. Time to pull this book off the shelf again.
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jayt90, you're the first to post (I think) in this topic about making salt cod from scratch. I've never tried it. The only cookbook I have that describes the process is the Zuni Café cookbook by Judy Rogers. Her method: 1-1/2 Tablespoons (3/4 oz) sea salt per pound of fish and at least 72 hours (up to 7 days) curing to acquire its distinctive flavor. So perhaps yours wasn't cured long enough or you didn't use sufficient salt. Or maybe it just isn't worth it.
As for recipes with beans, Rogers' cookbook includes a recipe for monkfish braised with white beans, fennel, and tomato in which she says desalinated salt cod would be a good substitute for monkfish.
Coleman Andrews' book, Catalan Cuisine, has two salt cod and bean salad recipes. One tosses poached salt cod with black-eyed peas, tomatoes, scallions, celery, radishes, and mushrooms. The other starts with paper thin slices of raw (desalinated) salt cod, marinated 24 hrs in olive oil w/ fresh thyme, fresh cilantro, and black pepper. reserve the oil when you remove the cod. serve atop a bed of white beans, garnished with shredded lettuce and celery leaves. drizzle with the reserved oil.
That last one sounds very good for the sweltering weather of summer. If I didn't have to turn on the stove to cook the beans, I'd pull a piece of salt cod out of the freezer now.
I hope you keep us posted on your experiments!
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Tzatziki--grated (salted and drained) cucumbers folded into greek yogurt flavored with garlic, lemon juice, and fresh herbs. Let it chill before serving. So good on a hot day, either on crackers or croutons for a light meal or snack, or alongside grilled fish or poultry.
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Interesting that Todd English is on this list. Locally, he can't manage to pay the rent on his Boston restaurants:
Todd English sued for $1m over unpaid rent -- Kingfish Hall, now closed
Todd English sued for back rent-- Olives, his first restaurant. After reopening a year ago, it was just recently closed and all assets seized.
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Recently I picked up some brown basmati rice at Trader Joe's. It's got the nutty flavor and chewy texture of traditional brown rice, but it's much lighter. It took ~5 minutes longer to cook than white basmati, but not a big deal. I'm a convert!
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Donuts as sandwich bread. Witness:
Dunkin' Donuts Glazed Donut breakfast sandwich: fried egg and bacon between a sliced glazed donut
the Bronut: a burger patty and fried egg between a maple bacon glazed doughnut
Currently it seems like a local problem. Here's hoping that it isn't contagious.
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I wish you were in charge of food at my headquarters! It's almost always donuts...You're right to plan for grab and go, and some of us tuck an extra bite into our bags for sustenance later. So nothing messy, please.
I like your idea for savory scones. Filled biscuits are another option if a toothpick will secure them easily. If you insist on being fancy, small brioche would be lovely with a bite of smoked fish tucked inside
If you want something heartier, then quiche, frittata, tortilla hold up well at room temperature and can be cut into slices or squares that are easy to eat out of hand. A Spanish potato tortilla would hit the spot.
What about small bags of granola? individual yogurt cups? Fruit would be welcome if it's something like grapes or precut into bite size pieces.
Don't forget decent coffee, please.
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Salt cod gnocchi with spring peas.
A variation on a recipe from Jodi Adams, chef-owner of Rialto restaurant, Salt Cod Gnocchi with Caponata and Bottarga that's been stuck in my head ever since I saw it months ago. I liked the idea of pairing them with something lighter than caponata and peas seemed like a good match. They finally appeared in local farmers markets this weekend.
Here I used both shelled English peas as well as sliced sugar snap peas. Substituted fresh mint for the parsley called for in the recipe. Lightly pan-fried them before tossing with a bit of olive oil and pecorino, topped with more mint. Exquisite!
I'd never made a stuffed gnocchi before and was worried that too much handling would make them heavy or gummy. So I did as little as possible. The dough was very delicate so I rolled it on a silpat and used a bench scraper to fold the dough over the filling before cutting it. They were larger than most gnocchi but not by terribly much. A lot of trouble but worthy of a special occasion. My experience with gnocchi is limited so don't know if they hold well or can be frozen. That would make a difference if I wanted to serve them at a dinner party.
The filling: shredded cooked salt cod with sauteed shallots, garlic, cream, fresh mint. Rich. A little went a long way.
Here's a shot of the filling process:
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Local chain Dunkin Donuts is now offering the donut sandwich, "pepper-fried egg and cherrywood-smoked bacon, between two slices of glazed doughnut."
I debated whether to post this in the Culinary Signs of the Apocalypse topic, but since apparently it's quite a hit, I'm obviously in the minority in finding the idea disgusting.
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I've never heard of them ... what are they?
Neither had I until about an hour ago when I read this.
That's a chunk of my life I would like back.
Worthy for introducing the word fauxnut to describe the inevitable knockoffs. LOL.
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My wife is in the UK, so I have had River Cottage Veg Everyday and the River Cottage Handbooks for Veg and Herbs sent to her hotel from Amazon UK. They are not available in the US so this was a good opportunity to try some thing different.
River Cottage Veg by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall was recently released in the U.S. Amazon link: River Cottage Veg
It's tempting, I'd be interested in what you think of it.
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Another search turned up this review (in French) with a photo that appears to include your egg dish: La Cave de l’Os a Moelle
The success of a dish that simple would depend on the quality of its ingredients. Look at the gorgeous color of the olive oil. It may well be infused with herbs and spices as djyee100's search turned up. But start with really good French olive oil and excellent eggs.
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LindaK, which Lello model do you have?
It's the Lello 4070 Gelato Junior
Sometimes I wish I'd gotten the Pro model, which has a 2 quart bowl. If I knew that I'd use it often (I don't) or always needed larger quantities it would probably have been worth the extra $100.
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Right, Lellos don't have removable bowls. I saw that the Breville has a removable bowl, like the Cuisinart,
My Lello has a removable bowl, so check various models if the brand interests you.
I like mine, but wish the bowl was bigger. 1 quart, like most others, but I see other models have 1.5 quart bowls.
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Winners of the Book, Broadcast, and Journalism Awards were announced on Friday:
Cookbook of the Year
Gran Cocina Latina: The Food of Latin America by Maricel E. Presilla
Cookbook Hall of Fame
Anne Willan
American Cooking
Mastering the Art of Southern Cooking by Nathalie Dupree and Cynthia Graubart
Baking and dessert
Flour Water Salt Yeast: The Fundamentals of Artisan Bread and Pizza by Ken Forkish
Beverage
Wine Grapes: A Complete Guide to 1,368 Vine Varieties, Including Their Origins and Flavours by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding, and José Vouillamoz
Cooking from a professional point of view
Toqué! Creators of a New Quebec Gastronomy by Normand Laprise
Focus on health
Cooking Light The New Way to Cook Light: Fresh Food & Bold Flavors for Today’s Home Cook by Scott Mowbray and Ann Taylor Pittman
General Cooking
Canal House Cooks Every Day by Melissa Hamilton and Christopher Hirsheimer
International
Jerusalem: A Cookbook by Yotam Ottolenghi & Sami Tamimi
Photography
What Katie Ate: Recipes and Other Bits & Pieces Photographer: Katie Quinn Davies
Reference and Scholarship
The Art of Fermentation: An In-Depth Exploration of Essential Concepts and Processes from Around the World by Sandor Ellix Katz
Single Subject
Ripe: A Cook in the Orchard by Nigel Slater
Vegetable Focused and Vegetarian
Roots: The Definitive Compendium with More Than 225 Recipes by Diane Morgan
Writing and Literature
Yes, Chef: A Memoir by Marcus Samuelsson
Radio Show/Audio Webcast
Fear of Frying
Nina Barrett, WBEZ
Special/Documentary
(Television or Video Webcast)
The Restaurateur, PBS
Television Program, In Studio or Fixed Location
CBS Sunday Morning: “Eat, Drink and Be Merry”
Charles Osgood, CBS
Television Program, On Location
The Mind of a Chef
Anthony Bourdain, PBS
Television Segment
Friday Arts, Art of Food, WHYY TV
Video Webcast, Fixed Location and/or Instructional
How to Cocktail
liquor.com
Video Webcast, On Location
The Perennial Plate: Real Food World Tour
theperennialplate.com
Outstanding Personality/Host
Andrew Zimmern
Bizarre Foods America, Travel Channel
Publication of the Year Award
ChopChop
Cooking, Recipes, or Instruction
Matt Goulding, Matthew Kadey with Tamar Adler,and Paul Kita, Men’s Health
“The Butcher Is Back!,” “The Six-Pack Foods of Summer,” “Southern Food Rises Again”
Craig Claiborne Distinguished Restaurant Review Award
Tejal Rao, Village Voice
“Bangkok Pop, No Fetishes,” “The Sweet Taste of Success,” “Enter the Comfort Zone at 606 R&D”
Food and Culture
Ann Taylor Pittman, Cooking Light
“Mississippi Chinese Lady Goes Home to Korea”
Food and Travel
Adam Sachs, Travel + Leisure
“The Best Little Eating Town in Europe”
Food Coverage in a General-Interest Publication
Men’s Health, Adina Steiman
Food Politics, Policy, and the Environment
Tracie McMillan, The American Prospect with the Food & Environment Reporting Network
“As Common As Dirt”
Food-Related Columns
Adam Sachs, Bon Appétit
The Obsessivore: “I’m Big On Japan,” “Everyone’s a Critic,” “The Tradition Starts Here”
Group Food Blog
Dark Rye
darkrye.com
Health and Well-Being
Rachael Moeller Gorman, EatingWell
“Solving the Sugar Puzzle”
Humor
Alice Laussade Dallas Observer
“The Cheap Bastard’s Ultimate Guide to Eating like a Total Cheap Bastard in Dallas”
Individual Food Blog
Hank Shaw, Hunter Angler Gardener Cook
honest-food.net
MFK Fisher Distinguished Writing Award
Mike Sula, Chicago Reader
“Chicken of the Trees”
Personal Essay
Fuchsia Dunlop, Lucky Peach
“London Town”
Profile
Brett Martin, GQ
“Danny and the Electric Kung Pao Pastrami Test”
Visual Storytelling
Michele Outland and Fiorella Valdesolo, Gather Journal
“Starters,” “Dessert,” “Smoke & Ash”
Wine, Spirits, and Other Beverages
Michael Steinberger, vanityfair.com
“A Vintage Crime”
Restaurant and chef winners to be announced, Monday, May 6.
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Sounds fantastic. I'm texting a friend who is on his way to NYC as I write to let him know he should make a stop for the soft shell crabs. I'm sure he thanks you for the heads up.
Ordinarily I get their wonton soup, but after a bowl of that, I can barely eat anything else. I'd swap soup for soft shell crab, though.
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Salt Cod Diary
in Cooking
Posted
David, that is one impressive piece of salt cod. While I'm happy with the quality I can find, I never see it with the skin. I only care because there's a Spanish recipe, Bacalao al Pil Pil, that needs the gelatin from the skin to emulsify the sauce--which is only garlic and olive oil (some recipes add bay leaf or red pepper for flavor)--but looks like a hollandaise in photos. I've never eaten it, much less made it, but I'm curious. Otherwise, no skin is more convenient for most recipes.
jayt90, if you make the cod, potato, and bean salad, it benefits from tossing the cod and potatoes in the vinaigrette somewhat in advance so the flavors meld. Some recipes also call for onion. As for the wine, I think it was an inexpensive white from southern France, a Costieres de Nimes. My recycling is out or I'd check the empty bottle! Simple but very nice.