Chris Amirault

We had a collective hand-wring over the detrimental effects of this bodaciousness over in the Fried Chicken Cook-Off.

I think that they are still eggs, beaten, with stuff in them -- so, sure!

Evan, this one-timer thinks you hit the nail on the head.

Yikes! Where in the world are you keeping it? Please do provide regular updates!!

BUMP. I've come across an irregular source for water chestnuts myself. Should I peel them immediately and put them in water? Or should I peel them when I'm ready to use them? Also, does anyone know of dishes that are designed to showcase their freshness?

Think it might be the effect of a dark (I am guessing), thin steel, enamelled pan at high temps? ← It's a good guess, except that I don't think that's the problem. Everything is fine in the little moat that forms because of the area that is raised in the center. If that makes any sense. edited because, in fact, the initial post did not make any sense -- ca

All right, here's a good baking 101 question. RLB (I'm such a name, or initials, dropper) and everyone else talks about "building structure" by beating cake batter for a long time. What exactly is going on there? How does the cake itself manifest the benefits of that structure? Is there a point past which beating to build structure stops doing good and other, bad things start?

A follow-up on the lop yuk. I brought a couple of pieces of the bacon to the folks who run the Chinese store from which I've bought the homemade lop yuk in the past, and we had a conversation about methods. Apparently, the shop owner's mom brines the strips for a while initially and then marinates them before curing them. She was also adamant that one should use the best shaoxing available, one with no salt added; I have a bottle of good stuff from that store that passes muster. I also cut them too thinly according to the proprietor, so next time, along with upping the sugar, I'll slice more thickly. Having said that, I admit to being very proud of my lop yuk! They knew I was a bit of a food nut, but they were pretty blown away to see me walk in with that little gift. edited to fix an unclear sentence -- ca

I decree, with relish, that Steven is allowed to have the "stuff" added to the beaten eggs be eggs. Allez cuisine!

Dave the Cook forwarded this link from Amazon to me: big discounts on Calphalon non-stick omelette pans.

Over here in the charcuterie thread, I've been making lop yuk or Chinese bacon. This morning, I decided I couldn't wait for dinner to make Naw Mai Fon, so.... scrambled eggs!

I couldn't stand the thought of waiting until dinner, so... It tastes remarkable, especially raw, with that unmistakable flavor of cured pork that you find in prosciutto. It is so good I can't quite believe it. The balance is excellent: I can't pick out the shaoxing, which suggests that it melted into the background of the flavor profile as it usually does. It could be a bit sweeter, though, so I'll up the sugar next time. The salt balance is excellent. Since I have to get to work, I just decided to throw together some quick scrambled eggs -- results here. edited to add link -- ca

I found this as well, I should add. But isn't it just amazing? I don't know why we are amazed that home-cured is better, but it's true: I'm just floored. Vivid lop yuk porn in a sec.

I will when I cook it up. I'm particularly curious about whether or not the addition of the shaoxing wine will impart a distracting taste. It will likely not surprise you that there is an entire thread devoted to lop yuk, a.k.a. "Chinese bacon": click here for that thread. I don't think it's extra long -- it may just be the photograph. Check the one above in the stairwell for comparison. I got these rind-on strips from my favorite local Chinese market, and I think that they were cut specifically for lop yuk.

After a week in the cool, dry attic: It looks, feels, and smells amazing -- and comparable to the homemade stuff that I've been fortunate to have. I'm going to be making Naw Mai Fon following Russell Wong's recipe here in the next couple of days, so I'll report back about taste soon.

Not worth comparing in any detail, I think, Marlene. I have an absurdly cheap, enameled pan that probably started life as a car muffler.

So, Ricardo, does it have the effect that my lousier pan has: fond tending to burn in the middle?

Hmmm... so does the Sur La Table model (click). It's clearly a design feature. Anyone know why?

In fact, some pans are designed in fact to have a bulge built into them, a rectangular area that is raised about 1/4" in the middle. This is my main problem with my current pan, which drives me nuts. The Calphalon pan I linked to above seems to have this problem. Of course, if you want burned fond while roasting meat, this is a good way to go. It also drains oil away from the center into the sides, helping to burn those roasted veggies, too, if that's your thing.

As a friend of Mitch's who regularly takes advantage of his happy affliction, I can say that all of this is true. (I've seen the honeymoon photos. "Honey, move to the left a bit. You're in the shot of the pain de campagne.") I also can say that Mitch can probably answer many of our dumbass questions along with the other kind souls here! To that end: Wendy, can you recommend some water-free pan sprays?

Always with the questions! Well, as William Burroughs wrote, "Be just. If you can't be just, be arbitrary." In general, I think that we should stick to things that are recognizably egg-based. So while many cakes could be described as "eggs, beaten, with stuff in them," I would say that they shouldn't count. And I don't see why we should stick to retrograde pre-21st century categories of savory and sweet, right? So, keeping in mind that my court has neither an appeals system nor any means of enforcement (): You would not! Yes they do! To me, the haemul-pajun retains the quality of an egg dish even with some flour added. (After all, some soufflé recipes include a bit of flour for stability.) What's Impossible Pie? The judges need more information on this one. Um, see above! I'd want to say yes certainly to anything that retains its eggy-ness, Jack. What do you think? Ja!

In Pursuit of Flavor includes her recipe for chocolate soufflé -- hands down my favorite dessert recipe in the world. We'll be having it soon in tribute to one of the most remarkable chefs, food writers, and Americans of the 20th century.

I thought for sure someone would have mentioned the new miracle worker in our kitchen, but not yet, so: if you don't have some already, get some Barkeepers Friend. It's a multipurpose powder for stainless of all kinds but it also works incredibly well on almost everything else in the world. I completely cleaned Le Creuset pots that had stains on them that were years old, and my new Sitram stuff cleans up in a jiffy. I'm serious: this stuff is absolutely remarkable. If you disagree, I'll happily buy your excess!

Bravo Brasserie (123 Empire St., Providence, 490-5112) is still open -- just called to check. My partner said it was mediocre, but, then again, it's name is "Bravo," so I don't think we're expecting too much more than noshes for the pre- and post-dinner crowd. They're doing lunch, clearly, too.

Rochelle, congrats on the coming addition to the fam! While I see that there's a sizable mashed potatoes contingent here, I know that artichoke season is nearly upon us, and many people I know haven't a clue about how easy it is to prepare them. I'm a big fan of the toothpick stool: after trimming and lemon-juicing the cut parts, stick three toothpicks into the base and you've got a handy steaming stand, with the tough stem down but not immersed in the water.