Kevin72

Yeah, in a way I guess it makes business sense that as a publisher you wouldn't want to pay for a 300-page volume of recipes for each region each time. Still and all, fantasy of fantasies is Batali deciding to do a book on each region. He made it almost 2/3rds of the way already on the shows, so he has a backlog there, and he's a good enough writer or well-spoken enough that he could do it. But certainly if he needs a researcher/ghost writer, I might be able to dig someone up . . .

From my understanding based on a Batali show with a similar recipe, it's a play on a variety of bird called a fig-pecker because that's what it eats (hey, we actually discussed it earlier in this very thread in fact!). Somehow it's evolved along the way to be made with sardines, but in the same style as they cook the birds.

And it certainly wasn't meant as a slight to your making it or on the dish itself. I'm sure it's delicious--in fact, I know it is since I've made variations before--just again an issue of space and recipe utilization. I mean, if the book had the same depth and scope that Naples At Table did, for example, I wouldn't really be so bothered with it.

The pepper/anchovy recipe brought up a little irk I have with that book though. It's not entirely rational, and even kind of elitist of me, but the book is so thin on recipes to begin with that it was kind of irritating that that recipe showed up; I mean, you see it everywhere, pretty much. She does a pretty good job with most and keeps things within a clear Umbrian "theme" as it were, and not to say that this sort of thing isn't eaten in Umbria, but it just didn't add much I thought. A pet peeve of mine with regional cookbooks is when they throw in recipes from outside that region or recipes that you can get from any cookbook, particularly when there aren't that many recipes to begin with.

Spectacular as always, Elie! That pumpkin sounds amazing; I've also been wanting to do something with the ones we're seeing at CM lately. I'm really loving that the weather's actually cooperating and appropriately autumnal for this shift in cooking. I'm looking forward to a number of upcoming meals.

What are the shreddy white things on top, over the sprinkles? Or is that just the icing? Sorry I jumped to that conclusion; I out of habit survey cakes now to make sure someone hasn't put coconut in the icing . . . Edit: Wow, I've never heard of alchermes before or at least don't recall having seen it before. And you made it, too, you fiend!

Elie: Good looking cake, except for the, urk, coconut? My one thing I can't stand. What's alchernes? ETA: Happy 2 months, FM Jr!

Sausage, or some sort of cured pork product, in a tribute to Umbrian cooking. There's this Homer-Simpson-gurgle-inducing pic in della Croce's Umbria book of a double-crusted pizza/foccaccia/sciaciatta(sp?) type thing that has sausage and greens as the filling.

Heh, three replies and three different names. Maybe we're all getting ripped off . . . ?

No; that's what's sold in the U.S. as a trumpet or trumpet royale mushroom. Porcinis have the thick, swollen stem like that but also a larger cap that's brown, orange, or yellowish in color. If you paid alot for them I'd consider disputing the issue with the vendor since here, at least, they cost about 1/5th as much as a porcini. I like the texture of them; they're great off the grill, but they're no porcini by a long shot. When you eat a fresh porcini you know.

It's a general rule that extends beyond just Mario that Italians (setting aside the relevant cioppino discussion) generally don't put an aged cheese on top of seafood, particularly shellfish dishes. Most especially pastas or their beloved fish soups. But then there's always the exception: pecorino is often used in stuffing mixtures for calamari and such. Sicily and Puglia seem to flaunt violations to this trend and have a number of exceptions (but again don't do it when pasta or a soup are involved). Also, you'll occasionally see a fairly mild or fresh cheese paired with stronger seafood to cut the richness of their oily flesh or brighten up the dish.

I wouldn't worry too much about being late with the intro, Judith. After all, we basically got a weeklong intro with your fabulous blog! I'll also recommend that you try to track down Umbrian reds. They're very robust and peppery and match up perfectly with the big flavors of the regional cooking, especially roasted or grilled meat.

This was spelt, not farro. Are they the same? I dunno. I could attend an entire semester on the differences (similarities?) between the two and not be able to tell. I bought it bulk and it wasn't terribly expensive, but then I only bought maybe two cups' worth. On a side note, just in the past year, I've noticed gourmet shops selling sapa and mosto next to the balsamic vinegar. ETA: Hadn't read Judith's intro writeup, so I missed that farro and spelt are the same.

I'm not sure if it's used alot in that area (Judith/Hathor may have further comment) but the herbal flavor you have difficulty replicating may be mentuccia or nepitalla, a mint-type herb used alot in Central Italy that is reminiscent of mint, oregano, and fennel.

Ghostrider, your observations are perfectly in keeping with these threads: not just cooking, but any eating experience you've had there and observations on the cuisine you can share. Welcome!

Last night's dinner began with Etruscan Soup from della Croce's book: Spelt and chickpeas mostly, cooked with the standard aromatics, pancetta, and a bit of tomato sauce. The tomato part, my addition, is an anachronism since tomatoes weren't around when the Etruscans were. Then we had my "Umbrian ribs" that I discussed on my thread last year. Batali ground into my head that Umbrians utilize lots of pepper, fennel, and rosemary to flavor things and I've run with it. So I crust a rack of spareribs with the above seasonings, bake them for a few hours, then toss them on the grill to get a smokey flavor to them. On the side, mushrooms with chilies.

I'd say a variation of the bread you made. Was it saltless? Something that can soak up all that pork fat and juice. I'm afraid I can't continue with my response; I'm making myself too hungry just thinking about it.

Yeah, the bread sops up all the vinegary pork fat/olive oil. It's probably heresy in your parts to do it that way, but I can keep a secret.

Our inaugural Umbrian meal Saturday night kicked off with "bruschetta alla Hathor": bruschetta topped with the pan seared pancetta and vinegary drippings Judith mentioned above. I then continued my four month streak of being unable to cook an item exactly as the recipe dictates. Starting with the green olive sauce for pasta in Boni's book (Pontormo also began her cooking for the month with this one), I also mixed in finely chopped cooked mushrooms, salami, and fennel seeds. Then it went over homemade fettucine: Nice, robust, autumn fare--our weather is back to more "seasonal" temps--though the salami really dominated the dish. Standard tart salad afterwards, no main this time.

It was on Swiss Chef's own blog. But we did have a minor tajarin discussion with similar findings that Alberts talks about: rather pale and uninspiring looking.

Good lord, PN! Who would even want to go up against you in a bake off competition?

Lamb Shanks Porterhouse Pork shoulder, spareribs, belly . . . aw hell the whole damn pig.

I don't think you give bigjas enough credit.

Judith I don't know how you do it, but each post and set of pics tops the last. And that porchetta sandwich was exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!

This is painful to look at: the beautiful pictures, the market, the food arrangments shots, the smug cats taunting me from their rooftop throne . . . love all the observations and nuances you point out, and a wonderful prose, too. Please get a pic of a porchetta sandwich. This is the time of year for it, no?