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Shalmanese

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Posts posted by Shalmanese

  1. Good magazine has a wonderful interview with Elisabeth Paul over her research at Noma on using blood.

    Apparently, it's chemically quite similar to egg white, although with far more iron and a metallic taste) and that it can be used to foam meringues and flavor ice cream.

    It's a really interesting piece about taking a very old fashioned, dying ingredient and figuring out novel ways to breathe new life into it.

    • Like 1
  2. I was fairly amused at some of the interviews where contestants spoke of the show itself being such a respected, high level type competition. All I could think of is season 1's culinary student and all of the personal chefs in many seasons. Sorry, I like the show, but, this isn't the Culinary Olympics, or Bocuse d'Or.

    While Top Chef is no Bocuse d'Or, the quality has improved immensely since the first couple of seasons and the chefs who make it late into the season are legitimately some of the best young chefs in America. But all of the contestants were talking about the commercial impact that Top Chef brings and it's undoubtedly true that becoming a star on Top Chef helps you open up restaurants and fill tables far better than the Bocuse d'Or or any other culinary competition.

  3. I'm always amazed that some of these guys show up seemingly unprepared for the task ahead.

     

    Like if you are doing TC in Boston, you ought to be prepared to shuck a clam or an oyster PDQ. How many failed at that last night 3 or 4?

     

    And you ought to make dishes of suitable complexity.  No throwing a steak on the grill and baking a potato.

     

    Its as though they never went back and watched old shows. As though they just showed up in Boston with their knives.

    I'm looking forward to the inevitable "I didn't learn how to make a single dessert for this show" moment and the even more mind boggling "I didn't prepare any desserts for the finale" moment.

    • Like 1
  4. I also use Eat Your Books to search indexed cookbooks for recipes with ingredients that I have on hand or am considering.

     

    Another plug for Eat Your Books! It's a great way to keep everything organized.

     

    When a question pops in your mind, and you want to find a cookbook, what do you think of first?

     

    An author? the title of a cookbook? a general category? Something else? What is your most common venue for using cookbooks?

    Whenever I get a new cookbook, I'll find recipes that look interesting or I want to try and stick a post-it note with the name of the recipe on the page so it's sticking out the top. Whenever I'm in need for inspiration, I'll pick out 2 or 3 books at random and quickly riff through the post-it notes until I find a dish or two that look good and go out and buy the ingredients.

  5. That makes sense, I'll give it another go using vinegar this evening. Still doesn't accomplish what I'd hoped for though. I wasn't worried about being able to turn it back into a hot sauce, I was hoping to see a dry powder that still tasted like the original sauce, albeit concentrated.

    Shouldn't a mix of FD hot sauce powder and maltodextrin vinegar produce deliver that effect?

  6. I ran into these guys last year at Techcrunch Disrupt and got really excited because the concept fundamentally makes a lot of sense. In traditional cooking, you're usually controlling the first derivative of the heat source and you're stuck as a human thermostat constantly fiddling with knobs to try and keep the heat even. The big change in thinking with precision cooking is to shift to controlling the variable directly and using a machine to automatically adjust.

    First came thermostatically controlled ovens and the ability to "bake at 350F" instead of adding or removing coals. Then came the electric deep fryer that allowed you to fry at a precise temperature without messing with big pots and candy thermometers. Next came the SV machine that allowed poaching at a controlled temperature. Searing is the only heat source we have left that hasn't made this shift from "cook over medium high heat" to "cook in a 400F pan" (outside of niche products like Accusteam Griddles).

    When I'm searing a steak, I'm constantly trying to balance between not having the oil smoke and heating the pan hot enough to get a good sear. When I'm searing something with a sugary glaze, it's a pain to find the exact right heat level to cause browning without unsightly black spots. When I'm slow cooking onions, I constantly have to find the right heat level so the onions don't burn. All of these are problematic because the changes in the food being cooked cause radical swings in temperature that are difficult for a human to control.

    Sure, it's expensive and clunky but all first generation products necessarily are. Immersion circulators dropped from $1000 to $200 in the span of 3 years as they gained mass market adoption. The reason why I'm excited is because I want to see recipes with "cook over medium high heat" become as obsolete as "bake on gas mark 5".

    • Like 1
  7. If you can point me to a recipe or set of directions, I'll whip something up with the orange concentrate either tomorrow or this weekend.

     

    Thanks! This is exactly the type of info I wanted for this thread... and hopefully some other people trying the technique out.

    There's not really a recipe, you want to get a liquid up to about 30 brix (30% dissolved solids) with the majority of it being sugar. Some alcohol can also be used in place of sugar to control texture and a small amount of invert sugars (corn syrup) can help with the texture. Simply freeze, put in a blender and blend until it forms a slushy texture and then freeze again.

    The easiest way to check (if you don't have a baume meter) if you're at the right sugar concentration is to just freeze and check the texture. If you make a mistake, thaw, adjust and freeze again. If it's dry and powdery, let it thaw and add more dissolved solids. If it's soft and slushy and weeping, add more water/fruit juice.

    • Like 2
  8. I have, however that's really only likely to happen if I can figure out a reliable way to get liquid nitrogen in the UK for less than a billion pounds. We're only here for a few years, so buying a ton of UK appliances isn't something we're willing to do, and an ice cream maker is a bridge too far. 

     

    I like the idea. The concentrate is quite sweet, considering the initial clarification took out a lot of the sugars. I should know the LN2 feasibility in a few days.

    I've always just frozen it solid, then used a blender to puree. The quality is pretty good with a high powered blender. With a granita, you don't need any tools more sophisticated than a fork.

  9. Beware that there are some places that serve "real" wasabi which may or may not actually contain real wasabi.  On more than one occasion, I have asked my server/sushi chef whether they had real wasabi, been told yes (sometimes for an upcharge), only to be served a green onion based sauce/paste.

    IMHO, not enough people know about the real/fake wasabi business that you get a useful answer. Instead, ask if they have "freshly grated" wasabi to get a much more reliable answer. Restaurants that serve real wasabi generally grate it in front of you as the show is as much part of it as the product.

  10. Serious Eats debunks that the bone flavors the meat. Instead, the reason why bone in cuts are better is because the meat close to the bone is delicious, with all sorts of fat and connective tissue and other yummy bits. While I like cooking a roast bone-in, I find for steaks, it tends to be a pain in the ass since the steak shrinks when cooked but the bone stays the same height, making it difficult to get even browning. Also, the area closest to the bone on a T-bone or a pork chop cooks slower and ends up still raw. What I tend to do is to take the bone off and cook it separately, usually roasted in the oven.

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