shelora

The word is out. Roberto is feeling fine and claims he will be back at the gym next week. He has had two angioplasties and is in the clear. Yippee!! We wish him a speedy recovery.

Yeah, as far as I know, Miguel is still there acting as Exec. chef. Roberto is as cute as a bug's ear. s

Hi there, Roberto instructed me first to blanch them in very salty water. Once drained, we squeezed them dry and collected a few branches together, molding them around some cheese. The end of the stalks then work like a handle to dust the "object of your desire" in a bit of flour, then egg batter, then hot oil. If you pass on the the cutlery, you can use the handle to eat this delectable, getting the last bits of seeds, pulling the handle away from your teeth. (I hope that makes sense). That dish is for gourmet sensibilites and I don't think it would work for pedestrian tastes so used to big honking burritos. Restaurants specializing in regional cuisine would have no problem. I've made it a few times in Mexico for friends and even then I had to special order it in the market. It's probably not that popular in Oaxaca either. I just have to tell you about another dish, Roberto taught me. Peneques. It basically is a masa dumpling, stuffed with cheese and poached in a tomato caldo. That was very cool. I've got to go and cook something now. Adios, Shelora

No, I haven't heard how he is doing. I'll let you know asap. I did a two week "stage" with him and crew at Fonda a few years back. We would go to the market in the morning and see what we could find and go back to the kitchen. I learned how to make huazantle rellenos and a salas with xoconostles ( the sour tunas). I too adore him S

I am making a Oaxacan Yellow Mole this weekend, from D.K.'s book, The Art of. Using pork, I will flavour the mole with hoja santa. It permeates the mole with a lovely anise flavour. I have used strips of it in appetizer sized tamales. I love it and am so pleased I am growing it in Canada. I've seen it used wrapped around fish in Veracruz, where it is called acujo. Cheers, Shelora

Hello all, I've just had some bad news that Chef Roberto Santibanez suffered a heart attack in New York City. He is luckily recuperating in hospital. He is the executive chef at Rosa Mexicano in NYC and formerly of Fonda San Miguel in Austin Texas. He is an extremely talented chef, is on the touring roster for Marilyn Tausend's Culinary Adventure tours in Mexico and has contributed to many cookbooks as well as spent many years teaching and cooking great Mexican food. Please send your good wishes for a speedy recovery. Besitos, Shelora

What was the class like at Casa de Los Sabores? What did you learn how to make and was it taught in English or Spanish? Was it hands-on? I'll be in Oaxaca at Christmas and would like to try someone else's class. S

There is a new restaurant opening near me and they will be serving yaki niku. The chef has been trained in this style of cooking, in Japan. I can hardly wait to try it. Can anyone speak informatively about this type of Japanese cuisine? Arigato. Shelora

We have hoja santa because we smuggled a live plant back with us from Mexico. We cut the plant back to a stump and took it with us well wrapped, roots and all. I have understood that this is the only way to grow hoja santa, there are no seeds. Correct me if I'm wrong. Epazote. Give it another try. Once it takes, it will re-seed itself forever. We now have very good plants producing excellent leaves. I have purchased epazote through my local gardening store and have purchased them in Mexico. I am a very low maintenance gardener. If I can grow epazote, so can you. It requires very little in the way of encouragment. I never take the plants in over winter. I let them go to seed and let nature blow them around. In the subzero temperatures of Ottawa, you may want to take the plants in over winter though. s

Sorry for all the questions, Jay, but I'm hungry. We are ususally in Oaxaca at Christmas time - will be again this year - and had played around with the idea of going in August for a friends 50th. That fiesta was cancelled so here we are getting ready to explore the Oregon coast instead. I'm very curious about the scene in oaxaca at this time of year. You don't need to refer me to the Lonely Planet, although that is very thoughtful. I must tell you we had some great Spanish food in Oaxaca last Christmas, very authentic, at Casa d'Olivo across from the Camino Real. That is if you want a different flavour than regional Mexican. And don't forget to buy some Salina Cruz sea salt in the market, it puts Fleur de sel to shame. Waiting to hear more. S

I'm in Oaxaca most everyday, but physically I'm in Victoria. I do have a few questions since we almost made it to Oaxaca at this exact time. So I would love to have a complete report. What's the weather like? Tourist count and type of tourist. What's in season in the market? Who's classes are you taking and what are you cooking? Any new restaurants? What did you have? Where are you staying? Price increases? Can hardly wait to hear from you. Shelora

Hi there, I have only made tepache once and that was just with pineapple. Very refreshing on an ice cold day. I would suspect that the "thickish fog" you are referring to is from the barley. Whenever I've cooked or even soaked barley, it produces lots of foggy water. If its an esthetic concern, I would suggest trying the double cheesecloth. But if it doesn't affect the flavour, I would leave it as is. I'm intrigued about the barley addition. Does it lend the mixture nutty or earthy characteristics? s

Sounds like a great trip and inspiring. I was in Peru a long time ago, on a really tight budget. I vaguely remember all the varieties of potatoes, but your note has given me an idea of returning again. Were you eating in higher end restaurants or a combination of market food and restos? s

Yes, Acme is good, preferably in the evening, where the candle light and big velvet curtains do the place justice. Casual, tasty and extensive menu and great cocktails. The Frazzled Prawns, wrapped in shredded phyllo and served with a chile garlic mayo is more-ish. Another great restaurant is Glow, high end and superb cuisine, sparkling decor, bordering on minimalist but very cozy. Lots of confit, lamb, local produce, etc. with some Asian flourishes. Excellent wine list. They have a new chef, Jeff Wenbacher (formerly of Luimere and West). 7 Victoria, Road, 250-741-8858 If you love cheese, take a trip to to the old quarter, where Wesley Street is, and pay a visit to McLean's Specialty Foods. They have a Scottish tea in the afternoon, but it is the cheese selection you really want. And for a German bakery thrill, where pretzels are king, check out the incredible array at the Columbia Bakery on 2151 Bowen Road. They make chocolate bananas dipped in ganache but it is really the double crust caraway rye and other German breads that make this a hugely popular stop. This should whet your appetite. S

I'm with Esperanza - a tour of Mexico, eating tamales, uchepos, corundas in all their shapes and flavours. Then maybe a cooking class over a weekend, taking corn from field to table, how to make a masa from scratch and then tamale making.

I prefer quesadillas with my favourite combo of squash blossoms, epazote and cheese. Then there are wonderful combos of sauteed mushrooms with chile and cheese. I am a corn tortilla woman all the way. I dream about the women in Oaxaca who make them for you to order, with a little asiento smeared on them. And that great photo of the comal from Guajalote is made of metal as the cook pictured is deepfrying. I have one of those at home, which I have never used for deepfrying but I like looking at it, I bought in from a wandering vendor in Juarez market in oaxaca. Last year we tooka trip up into the Mixteca Alta to a place called, Santiago Apoala. They make tortillas from a mixture of both corn and wheat, as both grow very well up there. They were incredible, stone ground and aromatic. At home I use a flat cast iron griddle for my quesadillas. No oil. I get good colour on my tortilla and I like using two small tortillas, like a sandwich. S

If you don't need any additonal starch in the form of flour or cornstarch, what about the addition of a little baking powder to lighten the dough? s

This is fun, I'm so confused. While the recipe sounds great, the wording in confusing. How can you "grind" fresh corn kernels? Wouldn't you have a puree? You wouldn't end up with ground corn with fresh off the cob kernels, you would have a juicy mush. What does the word masa actually mean and are we taking it out of context? Also, although my friend has seen pink,dark purple, yellow, white, blue and red corn, she has never seen green. That doesn't mean it doesn't exist. I have certainly heard it mentioned. Where did you get the corn in the first place? From Oaxaca? s

Oh yes, another thing I just remembered. This process of nixtamalization is done throughout Mexico and Central America. My friend also sited an example of the Chinese who use corn only as a vegetable, they do not cook the kernels in lime. It is only in Mexico/Central America do they understand this process. Fascinating isn't it? How they arrived at the process we can only imagine. Shelora

Hello again, Just talked to my friends at La Mano Magica in Oaxaca and I will try and repeat all that was told to me. Masa is made from dry corn and dry corn only. It is never made from fresh corn, it is impossible. It is the cooking process of cooking the dry kernels in lime (which is also cooked), that changes the corn from a vegetable to a grain. Once this process is complete - rinsing, etc. the corn can be ground into a smooth masa. This cooking process is called nixtimalization. If you are in Oaxaca in late October, you can see fields of dry corn on the stalk. The stalks are turned down, allowing the corn to dry.They are turned down in case it does rain, the water will slide off the kernels instead of penetrating the cob and becoming mouldy. Once the kernels are dry, they last darn near forever, until it is time to make more masa. Diana Kennedy speaks about it in the Art of briefly and I'm sure in other books as well. Rick Bayless will speak also with authority in his books about this process. And yes, where is Senora Theobroma! I hope this information helps you. Shelora

I do believe you can freeze masa. Why do they call the corn, dent? You could add the kernels to corn masa to enhance the flavour of instant masa, but to make masa from scratch you need whole kernels. Haven't we discussed this procedure on another thread or do I need more coffee. I'll come back later. S

No, the amarillo will have to wait, but, I was able to use the hoja santa in the coastal mole dish I made - with the fiery, sharp costeno chile. I am growing my own hoja santa, so i am able to pick it fresh. Myself and a friend could be the only ones in Canada growing this wonderful plant. I'm hoping it will be the start of something fab. s

I'm being rather cheeky. I top dessert with a large communion wafer.

Oh yes please for the recipe, Theobroma. With thanks. This is an extravaganza tomorrow night. I have changed the menu numerous times, but it is now set. * 100% agave tequila served in a cucumber cup * Guacamole Chamacuero - made with peaches and grapes * Ceviche on tostadas (scallops and wild salmon) * Corn husk tamalito stuffed with squash blossoms and epazote * Summer greens (from my garden) with a summer herb and lime vinaigrette * Mole of Black Iguana (AKA baby back ribs!) - a fiery coastal mole of 40 costeno chiles, hoja santa and tomatillos. * Roasted banana-pecan ice cream served with candied peanuts and confession wafers. These are all smallish plates and the guests are bringing lots of wine to pair with courses. I made still make an agua fresca, perhaps just for me while I'm cooking all day. Actually, it will start this afternoon. I feel ending the evening with confession wafers will appease any sin. Over and out. Shelora

Ceviche on tostadas - I think you are absolutely right! I've got to re-do the entire menu. I am going to make that guacamole with the peaches and grapes though - it sounds too great to pass up now that peaches are glutting the market place. And a lovely agua fresca upon arrival, before the tequila, just to cool down. And just so there is no mistaking, I do re-hydrate those dried anchos before I stuff them. The temperature is very hot today, we are just not too used to it. I love it, but yes, interior Mexico is definitely for the winter months. Oh well, my guest will just have to endure - pobrecitos! S