Daniel Rogov

Several small but important points: (a) As often I remind my own readers, when based on a system of 100, a score is nothing more than two digits (and very rarely three) at the end of a wine review. The score may sum up a critic's feelings about a wine but says nothing about whether the reader will enjoy or despise any wine. For that one has to read the critique and details of the wine. (b) The point in reading critics is not to find one who will tell you what to buy and what not to buy. The point is in finding the critic/s whose own palate gives you a sense of direction - that is to say, the ability to calibrate your own palate by what he/she/they write. Critics are guideposts, not gods. © As to the necessity for scores: For many years I always assigned scores in my own tasting notes to myself but never published them. I only started publishing scores when readers (and my editors) began to demand them. (d) No-one is more amused (that word used in its most pathetic sense) than myself when I stand in a wine shop and a patron comes in with a tear-out of one of my wine columns, the wines scoring 90 or higher being circled and that is what he/she orders.

Bonsoir, Bleu... A not at all pleasant or aesthetic chore but one not nearly as difficult as one might think. As is said though, a man or a woman has got to do what a man or a woman has got to do in such cases. See the excellent instructions at http://www.conservation.state.mo.us/conmag/1996/06/50.html Change those instructions in the case of a green turtle of up to about 5 kilos (as called for in the recipe) by placing the live turtle in a bathtub or large tub of fresh water for 4 - 6 days, refreshing the water every day or even twice a day to keep it as clear as possible. Do keep in mind that the knife used to decapitate the creature should be very heavy and very sharp! If you think this is difficult, you might love the recipe for whale steak that I have that starts off with "with 16 strong men crack the jaw bone of a large blue whale" Finally, for those who think turtle slaughter (which is a bit nastier than Alice B. Toklas' concept of "murder in the bathtub") is rough, go for tinned turtle meat.

Ah, but we Israelis have probably topped it off with the by now famous story of the cabinet minister who, when dining at the well known French restaurant "Casbah" (now defunct) ordered his steak tartare "well done"!!!

And in Israel and other parts of the Middle-East it might be said that "a breakfast without olives is like a day without sunshine"

Mz Ducky, Hello... I can easily understand the lack of trust in governmental and agri-business agencies but again I have to ask - has there been any sign whatever that even a single human being has been impacted upon by mad cow disease contacted in the United States? And perhaps to point out that the vast majority of illnesses contacted via e coli are through drinking water. Again, I am not poo-poohing the danger. I wonder though if we took all of the dangers into account if we would have to stop eating vegetables, fruits, grains, poultry, fish, and meat. All that would be left to us is mineral water that we have personally sterilized and put through super-fine filtration. Is there not a point where our fears reach a point of diminishing returns?

Jay, Hello... The National Library of Medicine (UK) estimates that there were 121 variant Creutzfeldt- Jabok Disease related deaths in the UK between 1985 and 2002. Of those only 40 were definitively linked to Mad Cow Disease. More than this, the same and other sources point out that the number of such deaths between October and December 2003 were only two and none for the period August to December 2004. The sources also estimate that the number of future deaths from variant Creutzfelt-Jakob will be under 40. Forgetting all other sources of possible infection, illness and death except salmonella, the Economic Research Service of the US Department of Agriculture report that salmonella infections are esponsible for 1.4 million annual illnesses, resulting in more than 16,000 hospitalizations and nearly 600 deaths in the United States alone. I am not at all pooh-poohing the threat of Mad Cow Disease. I am indeed pooh-poohing the exaggerated fear that arises from two cows having been so infected.

Pam, Hello... We are in full agreement. But now (alas) we are talking agri-business, mega-dollars and politics, all of which I fear far more than the immediate threat of mad cow disease. And, as I posted on my own forum, "...if anyone thinks I'm going to stop eating T-bone steaks, tournedos, entrecote, hamburgers, boeuf a la mode, knockwurst, all beef hot dogs or Richard's favorite, carbonades à la Flamande, they are very, very sadly mistaken!"

What's All The Fear About??????? I suppose I'm about to throw a bit of controversy into the Mad Cow (Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy) issue by asking just what all of the noise and fear is about. I can think of dozens of ways we can become ill and even die from eating bad eggs, drinking contaminated water or even inhaling the air of our cities. I can think of dozens more of diseases we can get from chickens, domestic or wild pork, venison, fish, etc. The mind boggles with thoughts of mercury, e-coli, radiation, and a thousand other dangers. I can even think easily of the dangers of eating any meat that has been raised commercially! I can even supply a pretty hefty list of the poisons used in raising vegetables and fruits. Heck, I even know people who have been made ill by eating foods in Mexico, the Carribean, the Mediterranean, Australia, San Antonio and New York City. As hard as I can think however, and with all of the research available, I find precisely two confirmed cases of cattle infected with Mad Cow Disease in the United States and only one case in the United States of a woman diagnosed as having Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease, that being only possibly related to Mad Cow and most of the medical specialists in the USA concluding that she acquired the disease abroad. I thus repeat my question: What is all the noise and fear about?

An advance call to a winery to coordinate a visit and tasting is more than a mere courtesy and has something akin to making advance reservations at restaurants. First of all, it assures you that someone will be there to greet you and from your own point of view also assures that you will not be showing up at the same time as two busloads of tourists. Second, in nearly all cases, showing the courtesy of an advance phone call almost always ensures that you will be given a broader, more extensive tasting than that given to people who simply "drop in". Especially with boutique and other small wineries, when it may even be the winemaker who greets you, this allows him/her to plan their day to include your visit. And, once present, if they see you understand and appreciate wine, you may find yourself being offered fascinating insights into the winemaker and the wines of the winery. In my opinion, unless you want to be treated like a tourist and not a wine-lover, no matter how tight your schedule, always best to phone ahead. Best, Rogov

The phenomenon of the "garagiste" is not at all a new one, literally millions of Europeans producing anywhere from 250 – 1000 bottles annually. What is relatively new is that many such places have appeared in the USA and Israel. One of the differences between the European and the American and Israeli scenes is that most Europeans produce these wines for their own consumption, to share with friends and family, perhaps to give to local village functions. In nearly every case the producers of these wines do not perceive them in any way as "a business" and their wine production is openly acknowledged as a hobby. What I wrote in my guide to Israeli wines is equally true for the USA and other countries: "In recent years, the country has seen a dramatic growth in boutique wineries, garagistes, micro-wineries and artisanal producers, each striving to produce world-class wines. Such wineries, producing anywhere from under a thousand to up to one hundred thousand bottles annually, can remain highly personalized affairs, the winemakers having full control over their vineyards, knowing precisely what wine is in what barrel at any given moment and what style they want their wines to reflect. The label of a boutique winery does not, however, guarantee quality. At the top end of the range, a handful of small wineries founded by competent, well-trained professionals are producing some of the very best wines in the country. At the bottom end are numerous wineries founded by hobbyists who produce wines that are barely acceptable" Had I chosen to go a bit further, I might have even said (as I did in the review of one such winery) that "these wines are drinkable. The question is why anybody would want to drink them" On the positive side, some of these mini-wineries are producing among the best wines in their countries. Indeed, five boutique wineries (the order of size – large wineries, medium wineries, boutique wineries, garagistes) appear on my list of Israel's 10 best wine producers. That list follows, the boutique wineries noted with an asterisk (*) 1. Golan Heights Winery (Katzrin, Yarden, Gamla, Golan) 2. Castel * 3. Flam * 4. Margalit * 5. Yatir * 6. Galil Mountain 7. Saslove * 8. Amphorae * 9. Recanati 10. Carmel

Wednesday It is now 05:55 in the morning. In a few moments I'm off to take the train from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem (alas, would you believe there were once trains from here to Damascus, Beirut and even Baghdad?). Will report back on the conference on return on Friday.

Keeping in mind that drinking and tasting are two vastlydifferent sets of activities, unless one has a special passion for acquiring an assortment of diseases, primarily liver and heart related, spitting is de rigueur at tastings. As to how one does that - with all due respect to Ms. Robinson (for whom I do indeed have a high level of respect) - ain't no way to be "proud" of one's spitting for like urination and other bodily functions spitting is simply a biological necessity. Not to be ashamed of, for sure, but proud??? A simple truth of the matter is that with the exception of those few noble souls who can spit with accuracy into a bucket some 3 meters away from where they are standing, there is nothing dignified about spitting. Necessary - yes. Aesthetically pleasing -no! One word I always give to young colleagues at tastings where there are tv or other cameras present, is to never allow themselves to be photographed while spitting. No better way to yourself look undignified.

Perhaps this will help: As to the film itself, which I have treated in some detail in other analyses - one of the things that sets Babette's Feast aside from other films until that time is that it made a complete break with the negativistic cinematic covenant that often related food and greed and pays a more pure homage to the creation of great cuisine. The chef (Babette) much to be admired here, is seen as the artist who has survived harsh and unwelcoming circumstances; the preparation of the meal she has planned is treated with respect, even with a touch of awe; and the food, especially as seen and commented upon by the General, is held out for devout admiration. Food is, of course used throughout the film as a metaphor, for when Isak Dinesen wrote the short story on which the film is based she used this single superb dinner to make a host of moral observations. Here are forced exile, a brand of Puritanism so strict that it borders on the perverse, and a group of people locked into self-defeating (even self annihilating) moral codes. Although one may extract a multitude of readings from the text, at its simplest level the film is dedicated to the notion that the creation of great food is no less uplifting to the artist than to the audience. More than anything, however, Babette's Feast shatters the hypothesis that there is something inherently antithetical between film and cuisine. Of one thing we can be sure – the research for the film was done with exquisite attention to culinary detail. In fact, as hard as one searches, there is only one "fault" to the entire film and that is when Babette confesses that she was a chef-de-cuisine at Paris' great Café des Anglais. This simply could not have been because the various chefs of the Anglais, including famed Adolphe Duglere were so fixed in their ways that they would not even allow a woman to visit, yet alone work in their kitchen. I can only hypothesize here but I feel strongly that Dinesen (Karen Blixen) was well aware of this and used this as a subtle insult to certain male chefs. Following, hopefully not to bore people completely to tears is one of the many pieces I wrote about the film, this one appearing in the Jerusalem Post in February 1992. As to the byline – that is one of several I used when writing for that paper. Believe me, the only people who will ever know why I chose that name are the women who choose to share my bed. Notes on Preparing Babette's Feast T.W. Lapereau Considering that the fictitious Babette was said to once have been chef de cuisine at the famed Cafe Anglais, each of the dishes that she prepared was made with scrupulous adherence to the rules of haute cuisine. The sauces, the stocks and even the creams were done in the manner of the ancien regime: slowly, with great patience and with what some might even consider an exaggerated sense of care for the food under preparation. It is my own feeling that to fully enjoy this particular feast it should be replicated in the spirit within which Babette worked. That is to say, whether for vicarious enjoyment or dining pleasure, one should adhere as closely to the rules of haute as is realistic. I admit that there might be some several problems with this. This simply is not the way one cooks today and one might, for example, have difficulties in finding a live green turtle, and neighbors might then object to having it slaughtered and then hung out on the terrace to bleed. In such a situation, one may, obviously, hunt out tinned turtle meat and make the appropriate substitutions. (If anyone thinks dealing with a live turtle makes for a problem, I have one recipe that starts out with the instruction "...with 12 strong men, crack the jaw bone of a large blue whale"). As to other substitutions, it is probably beyond most budgets to supply 1/2 kilo of Beluga caviar. Any real caviar (sturgeon roe) is an acceptable substitute, but salmon roe or other "so-called" caviars are not. It is also legitimate to substitute smoked salmon for the caviar, so long as those that do this are aware that they are then serving Blinis Romanov and not Blinis Demidoff. There are also some who may balk at devoting 18 hours to preparing the chaud-froid sauce for use with the quails. Those who do not feel up to this challenge may find nouvelle-cuisine versions of this sauce in many good general or French cookbooks. (The recipe in Julia Child's book is excellent as a substitute. That in The Joy of Cooking is acceptable but not great). Each of the recipies will serve 12, the number for which Babette prepared her feast. The First Course POTAGE A LA TORTUE (Green Turtle Soup) This recipe was taken from the notebooks of Adolphe Duglere, the best known chef of the Cafe Anglais. 1 live green turtle (about 5 kilos) 1 recipe for consomme (recipe follows) 1 recipe for chicken-meat stock (recipe follows) Madeira (or sherry) l bouquet garni (basil, marjoram, rosemary, savory, thyme and parsley tied together in muslin) l bouquet garni of peppercorns and coriander 4 medium carrots l small cabbage 1 turnip 1 large unpeeled apple salt and pepper to taste croutons for serving (recipe follows) 1. Slaughter the turtle and hang it to bleed for 3 - 4 hours. 2. Butcher the turtle, setting aside separately the breastplate and carapace, the meat and the innards. Clean the innards well. 3. Cut the carapace and breast plate into pieces and plunge these into a large pot with rapidly boiling water. Let the pieces blanch for 5 minutes. Drain rapidly, run the pieces under cold water and remove and discard the outer sheilds that cover them. 4. Place the cleaned pieces in a large saucepan and cover generously with the consomme. To the saucepan both bouquet garnis, the vegetables and the apple. Over a high flame bring just to a boil. Immediately lower the flame and simmer gently, uncovered, for about 7 hours. 5. While the consomme is simmering, bone the turtle meat and cut into 1 cm cubes. Place the meat in the chicken-beef stock, bring just to a boil, reduce the flame and let simmer just until the meat is tender (about 2 hrs). Keep the meat warm in the stock. 6. When the carapace and breast plates have finished cooking, strain the soup through a cloth, heat through and add 2 cups of Madeira (or sherry) to each litre of stock. Heat through. A few minutes before serving stir in two-three tsp. of the Amontillado sherry to be served with the meal. 7. Immediately before serving place the turtle pieces in the soup. Garnish with the croutons and serve at once. Note: This soup should be served with a medium-dry Amontillado wine. Note: If using tinned turtle meat, follow all of the above steps simply substituting additonal turtle meat for the carapace and breast plates used in preparing the stock. Consomme Consomme is nothing more than a stock that has been perfectly clarified until completely clear and sparkling. The following consomme (consomme blanc de veau) is considered ideal for making the turtle soup, above. 2 kilos uncooked veal bones, cracked 1 stewing hen, cut into convenient pieces 1 1/2 kilos uncooked veal shank meat 2 medium carrots 2 medium onions 2 stalks celery l bouquet garni with 2 unpeeled garlic cloves and 2 whole cloves added to 3 or 4 sprigs of parsley, 1/2 bay leaf, 2 sprigs fresh thyme 2 tsp salt 1. Place the veal bones and veal meat into a kettle, pour over cold water to cover, bring to the boil and let boil very gently for 5 - 6 minutes. Drain and rinse well under cold water. Rinse the kettle. Return the bones and meat to the kettle, pour over fresh cold water to cover and bring just to a bare simmer. Skim and then add the vegetables, chicken, bouquet garni and salt. Continue this bare simmer, partially covering the kettle, for 4 - 5 hours, adding boiling water only if the liquids evaporate below the level of the ingredients. When cooking is completed discard the bouquet garni and strain the stock into a clean bowl. 2. To degrease, let the stock settle for 5 - 6 minutes and then skim the bulk of the fat from the surface with a large spoon. Draw pieces of paper toweling across the surface of the stock to absorb the last remnants of the fat. 3. Taste the stock. If it is to weak, boil down to concentrate the strength. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Chicken-Meat Stock about 1 1/2 kilos each mixed meat and poultry bones and meat scraps 2 medium carrots 2 medium onions 2 stalks celery l bouquet garni (see recipe for consomme) 2 tsp salt 1. Place the meat and bones in a kettle, pour over cold water to cover, bring to a bare simmer and skim the surface. Continue to simmer, skimming often, until scum no longer rises to the surface. Add the remaining ingredients and continue to simmer, partially covered, for 4 - 5 hours longer, skimming occasionally if necessary and adding boiling water if the liquids evaporate below the surface of the ingredients. Before adding the turtle meat discard the bouquet garni and strain the stock through a cloth. The Second Course BLINIS DEMIDOFF This is a recipe that is Russian in origin but that was later refined at the Maison Doree, a restaurant Count Demidoff frequented with the many women to whom he paid court. 2 cups clarified butter (see note below), melted 1/2 kilo malossol (lightly salted) caviar, ideally Beluga 2 cups sour cream 2 cups milk, scalded and then cooled to lukewarm l cup each buckwheat flour and white flour, both sifted 4 eggs, separated l envelope dry yeast (1 oz) 1 tsp each salt and sugar 1. In a large warm bowl soak the yeast in 1/4 cup of warm water. After about 10 minutes, add l cup of the milk. 2. Sift both flours together. Resift the flours and salt and stir 1 cup of this mixture into the yeast. Cover and let rise for 1/2 hour. Add the remaining milk and flour. Lightly beat the egg yolks and add these to the mixture. Beat until smooth and then let stand and rise until doubled in bulk (about 1 hour). Add 3 tbs of the clarified butter. Beat the egg whites until stiff and then fold these into the mixture. Let stand to rise for « hour. 3. To make the blinis, use a cast-iron or other heavy 5" (8 cm) skillet. To the skillet add 1 tsp of the clarified butter and heat. Pour in 1 tbs of the batter at a time and cook for 1 minute. Over the pancake spoon a bit of butter, turn and cook for « minute longer. Remove the blini and keep warm in a low oven. Continue cooking until all of the blinis are made. 4. To serve, place the blinis on a preheated serving platter. On one half of each blini place heaping spoonsfull of the caviar. Pour over the remaining clarified butter and then, on the second half of the blinis, pile the sour cream. Note: Such blinis are ideally served with the dryest possible of Champagnes, very well chilled. To Make Clarified Butter To make clarified butter, very slowly melt about 1 1/2 times the required amount of butter in a skillet. Let stand for several minutes and then strain carefully, not letting the residue or water pour back into the butter. The Main Course CAILLES EN SARCOPHAGE (Quails in Pastry Cases) 12 quails, dressed and half boned, with heads intact 1 recipe for game stock (recipe follows) 1 recipe for brown chaud-froid sauce (recipe follows) 12 pastry cases (recipe follows) 250 gr fresh foie gras (goose livers) 250 gr truffles, finely diced 4 large truffles, sliced thinly 36 large seedless grapes 3 tbs butter 2 tbs each Cognac and Madeira wine 1. In a heavy skillet melt the butter and in this lightly saute the goose livers. When they are just beginning to brown, remove from the heat. Let cool for several minutes and dice the livers finely. Add the diced truffles and moisten with 2 tbs of the Madeira wine. Mix gently but well and with this salpicon, stuff the birds. 2. Wrap each bird in a piece of muslin cloth, folding the head under a wing. Poach the birds in the game stock for about 15 minutes. Drain the birds and set them aside to keep warm. 3. Strain the liqueur in which the quails were cooked. With a spoon remove most of the surface fat, and then, by running paper towelling over the surface, completely absorbe the remaining grease. Reserve « of this stock for use in making the chaud-froid sauce. Return the other « of the stock to a saucepan, add the brandy and bring to a boil. Reduce the flame and let simmer until the stock is nearly jelly-like in consistency. Keep warm. 4. When the chaud-froid sauce is ready take the following steps: a: Transfer the birds to the pastry cases, with the heads proturuding from the cases. b: Gently spread the birds with the now jellied stock. c: Coat the birds with the chaud-froid sauce. d: On the breast of each bird place 1 large, thin truffle slice and three large grapes. e: Serve on preheated plates. Ideally served with a red Burgundy wine such as Clos de Vougeot Game Stock Note: As many of these ingredients are not always available, one may substitute brown meat stock (see recipe which follows later on) but with the addition of the white wine, peppercorns, juniper berries, and sage as listed in this recipe. 1 1/2 kilos breast or other cuts of venison 450 gr trimmings of hare or rabbit l small pheasant or partridge, trussed 3 onions, halved 3 medium carrots, quartered 1 1/2 cups white wine 1 bouquet garni (with 3 sprigs parsley, 1 sprig thyme, 1/2 bay leaf, 2 unpeeled cloves garlic and 2 whole cloves, tied in muslin 6 - 8 peppercorns l tsp juniper berries 1/2 tsp sage salt as required 1. Prepare as for brown meat stock (recipe which follows) but deglaze the pan after the meat and vegetables are browned with the white wine instead of water. Chaud-Froid Brune Brown Chaud-Froid Sauce This may be the most complex of all French sauces as it is dependent on the use of a brown stock, a jelly stock and two other sauces. Although time-consuming, it is not a difficult sauce to make. As I mentioned earlier, substitute recipes (which may be good but will not be great) may be found in many cookbooks. Any cook who goes all out and prepares the sauce in its original form will feel well rewarded. That is a promise. For the Brown Meat Stock 1 1/2 kilos beef and veal bones, cracked 1 1/4 kilos beef shank meat 2 onions, halved 2 medium carrots, quartered 2 stalks celery l bouquet garni (with 3 sprigs parsley, 1 sprig thyme, 1/2 bay leaf, 2 unpeeled garlic cloves and 2 whole cloves, tied in muslin) 2 tsp salt For the sauce brune 6 cups brown meat stock (preceding recipe) 1/2 cup each carrots, onions and celery, all chopped finely 6 tbs clarified butter or rendered pork fat 1/4 cup flour 3 tbs boiled ham, diced 2 tbs tomato paste l bouquet garni (3 sprigs parsley, l sprig thyme and 1/2 bay leaf, tied together) For the meat jelly stock 0Gֻ 450 gr beef, cut in cubes 350 gr veal knuckle 350 gr veal and beer bones, sawed into small pieces and tied with string 115 gr lean chopped beef l calf foot, boned and blanched in boiling water 115 gr each butter and bacon rinds 2 large carrots, sliced 2 onions, sliced 2 leeks, sliced 3 stalks celery, sliced 1 bouquet garni (3 sprigs parsley, 1 sprig thyme and 1 bay leaf, tied together) 2 egg whites 1 tsp each tarragon and chervil chopped salt and pepper For the Chaud-Froid Sauce: 2 cups meat jelly stock (preceding) 1 1/2 cups sauce brune (preceding) 1 cup brown meat stock (preceding) 3 tbs Madeira wine A: Prepare the brown meat stock: 1. Arrange the meat, bones, carrots and onions on a roasting pan and place in the center of a very hot oven. Turn the ingredients occasionally and let brown for 30 - 40 minutes. Remove from the oven and drain the fat. Transfer the meat and vegetables to the soup kettle in which the stock will be prepared. Into te roasting pan pour 1 1/2 cups of water, place over a low flame and scrape off all of the coagulated browning juices that have stuck to the pan. Add these to the kettle. 2. Pour over cold water to cover and bring to a bare simmer. Skim and then add the vegetables, bouquet garni and salt. Continue the bare simmer, partially covering the kettle, for 4 - 6 hours, adding boilng water if the liquids evaporate below the surface of the ingredients. Skim occasionally if necessary. When cooking is completed, discard the bouquet garni and strain the stock into a clean bowl. With a spoon remove most of the grease and degrease completely by absorbing the remaining fat with paper towelling. B: Prepare the sauce brune: 1. In a heavy saucepan melt the butter and in this slowly cook the vegetables and ham for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Into this mixture blend the flour and, over a moderately low flame, stirring constantly, cook for 8 - 10 minutes, until the flour has turned golden brown. Remove from the flame. 2. Bring the stock to the boil and using a wire whisk rapidly whisk the beef stock into the mirepoix (the vegetable mixture). Beat in the tomato paste, add the bouquet garni and simmer gently, partially covered, for 2 - 3 hours, skimming as necessary and adding addtitinal stock if the sauce becomes overly thick. When the sauce is done there should be about 4 cups and this should coat the spoon. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary and strain, pressing the vegetables with a wooden spoon to press out their liquids. Degrease the stock, first with a spoon and then with paper toweling). Set aside to keep warm (ideally in a double boiler, over but not in hot water). C: Prepare the Jelly Stock: 1. In a large heavy skillet brown the beef, veal and bones lightly in butter. Transfer to a large kettle and continue to brown together with the carrots, onions, leeks and celery. Pour over 9 cups of water. With a small amount of water dilute the juices in the skillet in which the meat was browned and add this to the stockpot. Bring to the boil, skim and add the bacon rinds and calf's foot. Add the boquet garni, season with salt and pepper and simmer gently for 6 hours, skimmng occasionally. Strain the stock through muslin. 2. To the strained stock add the chopped beef, egg whites, tarragon and chervil. Whisk lightly over a moderate flame until the mixture is lukewarm. Carefully skim off all the fat. With strips of paper toweling blot off whatever fat remains on the surface. Bring to the boil, whisking constantly, and then lower the flame and simmer very gently for 35 minutes longer. Strain the remaining stock through several layers of lightly dampened muslin cloth. D: Make the Chaud-Froid Sauce: 1. In the saucepan, combine the remaining clear brown stock and the sauce brune. Boil down over a medium-high flame, stirring constantly wih a wooden spoon and add, a little at a time, the jelly stock. Boil down until the sauce is at a consistency where it can be used to coat the birds. Remove from the flame, stir in the Madeira and coat the birds. Croutes de Bouchees Feuilletees A_ֻ (Puff Pastry Cases) 450 gr butter, softened 450 gr flour, sifted 2 tbs butter, melted 2 tsp each salt and lemon juice l. Sift the flour onto a well chilled marble or wood surface and make a well in the center. Into the well place the salt, lemon juice, melted butter and 12 tbs cold water. With the fingertips mix these briefly and then, continuing with the fingertips, work the flour in until the mixture atains the consistency of coarse crumbs. If the mixture is too dry, add water, several drops at a time. The dough should be well mixed but not kneaded. Divide into two equal balls, wrap each in waxed paper and refrigerate for 1/2 hour. (Note: Each of the following instructions should be followed twice, once for each ball). 2. Lightly flour half of the softened butter and flatten with a rolling pin. When flattened fold in half and continue to flatten and fold until the butter is pliable but not sticky and close to the flour in consistency. 3. Shape the butter into a l5 cm (6") square. Roll out the dough to a 30 cm (12") square and set the butter in the center of this. Fold the corners of the dough over the butter, turn upside down on the work surface and press with the rolling pin to flatten. With the rolling pin roll out the dough into a rectangle about 20 x 45 cm (8 x 18"). Fold the rectangle into thirds, turn the new rectangle 90 degrees and roll out again into a large rectangle. Fold again. Repeat this process so that the dough will have been rolled out and folded 6 times in all. If, during the process the dough becomes too soft refrigerate between rollings for 15 minutes. After all of the rolling out and folding process has been completed, chill the dough for 2 hours before using. 4. Roll out the dough again, this time to a thickness of about 8 mm (about 1/3"). With a sharp pastry cutter cut out rounds about 10 cm (4") in diameter. Place these on a damp baking sheet. Dip another round cutter in hot water and mark out lids on the pastry pieces that will be about 8 cm (3 1/2") in diameter. Mark the edges with a knife, taking care not to cut all the way through. Cook the pastry rounds in a hot oven just until they begin to brown. When baked remove from the oven and remove and discard the lids. Let cool for 10 minutes before putting the birds into the cases. The Dessert KUGLEHOPF 8 cups flour, sifted before measuring 1 recipe for Chantilly cream (recipe follows) 2 cups each milk and butter 2 cups seedless raisins 1 1/2 cups sugar about 1 cup diced glazed fruits (optional) 10 eggs 2/3 cup blanched almonds 1/4 – 1/2 cup rum 6 packages active dry yeast 2 tsp salt 1 tsp lemon rind, grated 1. Let all the ingredients come to room temperature. 2. Scald the milk and then let cool to just lukewarm. Pour the milk over the yeast and after the yeast is dissolved beat in 2 cups of the sifted flour. Set this sponge to rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk (about 1 hour). 3. Beat the butter until it is soft and then gradually sift in the sugar, blending until the mixture is light and creamy. One at a time beat in the eggs and then beat in the salt. Add the sponge, the remaining flour, the raisins and lemon rind. Beat the mixture until smooth and elastic. 4. Divide the blanched almonds in the bottoms of two 23 cm (9") greased tube pans. On top of the almonds divide the batter and let stand until again nearly doubled in bulk. Bake the cakes in an oven that has been preheated to medium for 50 - 60 minutes (to tell if the cakes are done, insert a sharp knife. If the knife comes out clean, the cake is done). Let the cakes cool before removing from the pans. 5. Just before serving sprinkle the cakes over with the rum, coat generously with the chantilly cream and, if desired, decorate with glazed fruits. Serve with well chilled Champagne.

An international culinary conference "A Taste of the Mediterranean" will take place in Jerusalem next Wednesday and Thursday (15 and 16 June). The conference, sponsored by the Konrad Adenauer Conference Center and the Israeli Ministry of Education will take place at the Botton Auditorium in Mishkenot Sha'ananim. I had posted earlier about this conference but now, with full details in hand, thought a fully updated post was in order. The purpose of the conference is to explore the history, sociology, psychology and other various influences of Mediterranean Cuisine. Among those presenting papers will be Claudia Roden (the world's leading writer about Mediterranean cuisine and as I once introduced her, "a figure of mythical proportions"); Moshe Basson (Culinary Archaeologist, Chefs for Peace); Fatema Hall (Chef and Food Writer, Mansouria Restaurant, Paris); Chaim Gan (of The Grape-Man); Carlo Petrini (President and Founder of the Slow Food Movement); Dr. Ilana Shapira (Naturopath and Author); Erez Komorovsky (of Lechem Erez); Flavia Lwow (Associate Curator of the Israeli Museum); Prof. Elliot Berry (Director of the School of Public Health at Hadassah); Prof. Mohammed Shaheen (Al Quids University); Anne Kleinberg (Author and Culinary Journalist); Tal Glick (Geographic Photographer); Sandro Dernini (Forum of Mediterranean Food Cultures); Vedat Basaran (Chef-Owner, Feriye Lokantasi Restaurant, Turkey)and Phyllis Glazer (Culinary Writer and Consultant). I shall also be presenting a paper the hypothesis of which relates to how foods and culinary contributions cross borders far more easily than do people in this region. There will also be a session of cooking demonstrations by chefs Joseph Asfour (Darna, Ramallah); Tamasr Blay (Formerly of Arcadia); Victor Gluger (Chloelys; Shalom Kadosh (Sheraton Plaza); Ezra Kedem (Arcadia); Yaron Kestenbaum (Food Art); Mika Sharon (Mika); Chaim Tibi and (Muscat) My own reaction (and the reason I agreed to participate) is that many of the people and many of the talks scheduled will be at a high level and thus of great interest. In other words – attending the conference receives my highest recommendation. It is my understanding that participation in the entire conference will cost NIS 400 (NIS 350 for students and senior citizens). Some of the talks will be given in English, others in Hebrew and possibly Arabic and French. Simultaneous translation to English will be available. To receive the entire program, for registration and other information best contact is Beverley Hemo who can be reached at 02 6292212 or by email to programme@mishkenot.org.il (Other than that I am presenting a paper, I have no direct connection with the conference)

I think we have to add two categories here - for in addition to wine snobs and winos there are true wine lovers and then there are wine geeks. The geek is one to whom wine is the most civilized part of life, and for such people life without wine is unthinkable. The wine geek may or may not be a snob or a true wine lover but he/she is rarely a wino. The true wine lover appreciates wine as a cultured part of life and, like every other aspect of the cultured life perceives wine as a reflection of our history, sociology, psychology and taste .. in short, one of many reflections of our being civil and cultured human beings. The wine snob simply makes believe that he/she is a true wine lover but loves wine more for the impression that his/her knowledge (or bluff) will make on others than for the wine itself. The wino is, simply stated, a drunk. And drunks are never cultured or civilized.

Behemoth (Although I'm sure you are not truly a behemoth), Hi... Your imagination is not at all playing tricks on you nor are you into hallucinations. Some Lebanese wines, especially those of Chateau Musar, tend to go into a dumb period, that is to say, a period where seemingly of a sudden the youth, vigor and fruitiness of the wine seem to have gone into hiding. During these periods the wine is simply flat and lacking charm. It does not, however, show signs of having oxidized, caramelized or suffering from any other of the problems that over the hill wines tend to show. Some, on tasting wines during this period think the wine has gone on to wherever it is in paradise that once excellent wines go on dying. All of which is rather a shame, for these wines do indeed "come back" after a period of anywhere from three to five years. Anticipating the question of how to explain this phenomenon......all I can do is come up with apologies for neither I nor the departments of oenology at the University of California at Davis, the University at Grenoble or the University at Bordeaux can come up with any physical or chemical logic behind this. That it happens with some vintages is undeniable. Perhaps one day it will even be explainable. Should you open such a bottle, alas but nothing to do but to consign it to the kitchen sink, but if you have others on hand, best is to hold them for 3 - 5 years and then to try again, probably with remarkable results. Should you have questions about specific years of Musar, don't hesitate to contact me by email at drogov@cheerful.com and if I have a track record of the wine I'll be glad to share it.

There is no question but that the wines of Lebanon are on the rise in both quality and quantity and that Michael Karem's comments are to be taken most seriously. For another interview with Karem, see http://www.reason.com/interviews/michaelkaram.shtml Alas, Lebanon is Israel's neighbor but for reasons of politics and misguided ideology the importation of the wines of Lebanon into Israel is illegal (as is the importation of Israeli wines into Lebanon). Sad because the Bek'aa, the northern Galilee and the Golan have so much in common and our winemakers would profit well from regular contact and cooperation. Also sad on a personal basis because even though Michael and I live only an hour apart one from the other by air, we cannot meet for morning coffees. Oh yes...many sophisticatged Israeli wine drinkers do indeed drink Lebanese wines. The majority of those are obtained on trips abroad to London and some wines even manage to make there way across the border tucked into valises. One of the few cases where we can be proud of our local smugglers. Not too long ago several of the members of my own little wine forum held a tasting of Lebanese wines in Tel Aviv. The tasting notes and comments on those wines (posted by quite a few of the participants) can be seen at http://stratsplace.zeroforum.com/zerothread?id=8040

To the best of my knowledge Chateau Margaux does not produce a non-vintage wine. Taking as good a look as possible at the labels in the illustration on the link you provide, these are not the labels of Chateau Margaux. My guess (and only a guess) is that this is a wine from one of the minor chateaux in the Margaux appelation and at that probably one that sells in France primarily as a supermarket wine. Perhaps someone else can add to this and even perhaps correct me...

When cooking for pleasure (most of the time) - any piano piece by Mozart. When cooking as an obligatio - The Cry of the Valkyries

Goldie, Hi... If it is mineral rich wines you want, start your hunt with French Chablis. Made entirely from Chardonnay grapes in the Chablis region (north of Burgundy), these wines are often crisply dry and laded with minerals. Start with Chablis and later experiment with 1er Cru and Grand Crus Chablis... See some of my tasting notes at http://www.stratsplace.com/cgi-bin/search?...=111&offset=100 and http://www.stratsplace.com/cgi-bin/search?...x=111&offset=50

In the name of full disclosure: (a) I am a smoker, indulging in both cigarettes and cigars; (b) I enjoy my smoking; © As a gentlemanI try hard not to smoke in situations where it will offend others; and (d) Because I am not stupid, I know precisely the risks involved and conclude that anyone who smokes (myself included) has made a life-death decision. Having so stated and more specifically to the issue at hand, there is a good deal of research that shows that men and women who started smoking at a relatively early age build their repertoire of aromas and flavors on the overlay of residue from their cigarettes. In short, smoking does change the palate but it does not harm it. What this means is that when I find the flavors of say blackcurrants in a wine, or of balsamic vinegar in a sauce, I am finding precisely the same elements as a person who does not smoke. Whether we are "feeling" precisely the same thing is more a philosophical than a physiological question. Going a step further, about twenty years ago I compiled a list of the restaurant and wine critics I considered the most important of the 19th and 20th century. Interestingly enough, of the forty people on the list thirty-one smoked, not one did intentional exercise, nearly all overate and on the average they lived to 85 years of age. I know, I know.....that's rationalization but by heaven it does hold out hope for a sinner such as myself

Here's my own tasting note for the wine in question: Chateau d’Yquem, Sauternes, 1995: Medium-to full bodied, light golden in color with orange reflections, this tempting and concentrated Yquem is already showing off nicely with quince, orange rind, vanilla and lightly spicy oak. Excellent balance between fruits, wood, natural acidity and moderate sweetness bode well for the future. As the wine matures look for the development of honeyed summer fruit and cinnamon flavors. Approachable now but best starting in 2006 and then cellaring nicely until 2025-2030, perhaps longer. Score 94. (Tasted 27 Jun 2001)

Hello Mark, I was referring not to the name of the owner but to the name of the winery,which does indeed remain "Charles F. Shaw". On the the other points we are in agreement. It is my understanding that the winery purchases their bulk wines at present for about US$0.78 per gallon. Even taking into consideration the low price bottles,labels, bottling expenses, corks and distribution this still leaves the winery a profit of about 40 cents a bottle. Sell 8 million cases and laugh your way to the bank.What the heck....that would easily buy the Lambhorgini after which I so devotedly lust.

No need at all to cry for Charles F. Shaw who thought up the idea of the wines known affectionately (or with passionate hatred) these days as "Two Buck Chuck". Shaw, taking advantage of the wine glut in California, started buying up grapes and bulk wines in (if memory serves) 2001 and dealing them largely through the chain "Trader Joe's". Everyone is making good money on these wines and to the surprise of quite a few the wines compete nicely with many in the $5-8 dollar range and people continue to buy them by multiple cases. No loss-leaders these! In fact, considering the millions of cases that have been bought - some good profit here. I have tasted the Cabernet, Chardonnay, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc wines in the series. All earned acceptable scores of 80-84. At that price, unbeatable and that seems to be what a good many people want to drink. Anticipating a question - Nope! Not wines that I would buy for my personal drinking pleasure.

According to Reay Tannehill, one of the outstanding culinary historians of our days, pasta probably originated neither in China nor in Italy but simultaneously and by pure serendipity, in Arab countries and in India. It is known, for example, that at leat 50 years before Marco Polo set sail from Venice,Indians were dining on sevika (translated as "thread") and Arabs on rishta (a Persian word also meaning thread). The probability is that pasta made its way to Italy not from the Far East but from Arab lands in the later Middle Ages. Some speculate that pasta was introduced to Sicily and southern Italy as early as the 11th century, those territories being not a very difficult trp from North Africa. For references: Reay Tannahill, Food In History, Stein and Day,NY, 1973; Om Prkash, Food and Drinks in Ancient India, Delhi, 1961; A.J. Arberry, "A Baghdad Cookery Cook" in Islamic Culture 23, 1939.