Smithy

This last point amazes me. A cooler! I suppose that helps with the condensation of the braising liquids. Thanks for the extra information. I feel myself teetering toward a tagine purchase...heck, it's only money and cabinet space....Tagines.com may be getting some of my money soon. (Sure wish I could go overseas and pick one out myself!) The Riffian tagines come in 3 sizes (11", 12" or 13" diameter). Do you have a recommendation?

Has anyone else tried letting it breathe overnight? I did think it improved, although still not enough to become a preferred merlot.

Thanks for adding those points, Wolfert. The separation of meat and juice during storage does seem to make a difference in texture and flavor. Another practical benefit I've noticed is that it's much easier to get the congealed fat off the juice if there isn't meat cluttering up the container. Would you please expand a bit on the idea of browning at the end of the braise? Is that done by leaving the lid off and turning the meat as the liquid reduces? Is this a stovetop or oven technique, or both? I like the idea that it saves me from having to mess up a pan for browning when I plan to braise in a clay pot. What difference does it make to the final product whether the browning happens at the beginning or the end? Moderator's Note: We've split Wolfert's response to this question and the posts that followed into a separate thread on Moroccan tagine cooking. Click here for that discussion.

That's a problem in terminology, isn't it? I'm tempted to call it a "stick" pan, but that gives the wrong idea as well. Good summary, k43. I have at least one minor quibble with your summary: in my experience the Le Creuset was not difficult to clean, although it looked like it would be. I did not, nor would I in the future, brown the meat in another pan and then transfer it with the deglazing liquid to the LC. One or some other posters said it didn't brown as well as stainless steel, but that was not my experience either.

I never thought about the volatiles being sucked out. Can you actually taste it, Brad, or is it just your sense of chemistry talking? I ask mostly out of curiosity, because (1) even if *you* can taste it may not mean that *I* can, and (2) since when did a good bottle of wine last more than one night around my household? Nancy

I too am surprised to see that use of the word "albedo"; it means the same in planetology as it does in climatology. The appearance of the fruit is beautiful. What does the peelzyme do to the flavor?

I tried 3 inexpensive whites last night. They may not have been typical, because I was going by (bad) memory when I went by the store, and not one was something you'd recommended. I don't know whether that affected my "results". I do know I came away with questions, and some definite learning. That's always fun. Rancho Zabaco Dancing Bull Sauvignon Blanc, 2000 Berenger Founders Estate Chardonnay, 2003 Beringer Chenin Blanc 2003 It was an interesting and educational comparison. For the very first time, despite years of drinking wine and testing them with friends, I "got" that nose that's supposed to be unmistakeable and characteristic of the chardonnay: butter, maybe some vanilla, and oak. The more I smelled the three, the more I could detect it and the more distinctive it became. I could taste it, too, when I got around to that part. I GOT IT! Here's my first question: Step 6 of the Evaluating Wine portion seems to be saying that the buttery aroma noted above comes from the way the wine is fermented. Yet chardonnay is always characterized as having aromas of butter, oak, and sometimes toast or vanilla. Are you saying that characteristic is from the way the grapes are handled, rather than the grapes themselves? Could you make a sauvignon blanc grape taste and smell like that? If you did, would you still call the finished product a sauvignon blanc? More observation: I started to understand a bit about body and structure, based on the description of both. I'm not sure any of these three wines had much of either, but there must have been some structure because the flavor of each changed somewhat as I rolled it around in my mouth. It seemed to me the chardonnay had more body, if I understand that term correctly. It seemed fuller-feeling. Question: does it sound, from this paragraph, like I understand the terms? Does it make sense that the cardonnay would seem fuller, and would that mean it has more body? Finish: For my money, the RZ sauvignon blanc ended on a sharp note that may have been alcohol, and the B chardonnay ended with a woody sweet note that I didn't like a bit. The B chenin blanc had the nicest finish. That was surprising since that wine is almost too sweet for my tastes as a stand-alone wine, and I'd have guessed that the sweetness would cloy. It may be that the wine was more consistent from start to finish so there was no surprise sweetness jumping out at me as with the chardonnay. Questions: What am I tasting in the finish, and can someone help me characterize it better? I'd be especially interested if someone who knows these particular wines can describe them better. I'd never had the Dancing Bull Sauvignon Blanc before, and won't bother again. (I don't much like their zinfandel either, despite all the hoopla, so I may be weird.) What IS that finish? If some expert prefers not to discuss this in public (say, for fear of offending a client), feel free to PM me. How typical are the wines I picked of their type? Finally: nowhere have I seen chenin blanc listed in your labs. Is that because you just overlooked it, or is it not good for this lab for some reason? My reading suggests that I'd have to put good money into a French chenin blanc to get a good representative of this wine, and I got a cheapo wine that I knew would be sweeter than the others - but still, it was a good comparison. Am I off track for this lab?

Well, as winesonoma points out, there are silicone-coated (or otherwise plasticized whisks) available. The more general answer to your question, I think, comes from All-Clad's web site , which unfortunately doesn't say what-all you CAN use, but explicitly states that using metal utensils on your non-stick surface will void the warranty. I don't have much non-stick cookware (and none of it's high end like yours) but I'm almost to the point of using wooden utensils even on my metal-interior pans, just so they don't get scratched. Talk about fussy! I know what you mean about wanting to keep it looking nice!

Miligai, that is a very useful, very helpful exposition. Thank you.

For my first attempt at lamb curry, I used Julie Sahni's recipe for Gosht Masala from Indian Regional Classics. I suspect, after rereading this thread to answer some of the questions that came up while I was cooking, that it's a bit generic, or simple, as curries go. (For instance, it calls for cooking oil instead of ghee.) That's all right for this beginner, however; I still learned plenty. Since my photos aren't anywhere near the caliber of those already posted, I'll just show the before and after. 2 lbs. lamb stew meat, pureed tomato, finely chopped onion, grated ginger, minced garlic, ground cumin, coriander, red pepper, paprika, turmeric. Question: what kind of red pepper is usually used here? I had some ground up dried hot Egyptian chilies on hand and used a bit of those. Is cayenne the norm? Let's see...I learned that I really have to turn down the heat. I was using my Le Creuset 6.75 oval French oven over an electric burner set on about 6 - medium high heat. My onion was running out of moisture and threatening to burn at about 15 minutes. I wonder whether that means too much heat or too large a pot? At any rate, I didn't get the caramelization I was expecting, and the sauce is pretty oniony. I used 2 c. of finely chopped yellow onions for 2 lb. lamb stew meat, 1 c. tomato puree, and assorted spices and cooking water. I also learned, yet again, that time does wonders. The sauce after simmering was bitter (the uncaramelized onions, and perhaps the red pepper I used) at first. I poured the finished product over some leftover pilaf, and the merged beautifully and tasted pretty good. Today I just had another bowlful for lunch - no rice - and the flavors have definitely mellowed, although the onion aftertaste is pretty strong without the rice. Tonight I'm going to reheat the whole thing and cook some small waxy potatoes in it, per Sahni's variation, and garnish with cilantro. The finished product, poured over pilaf, isn't as elegantly plated as most of you manage, but it tasted good enough for a first attempt:

I'm curious about what's going on with the changing flavors I noted in my previous post, and how to describe it. If someone else experienced it with this wine, and can explain it along with better descriptors than mine, I'd appreciate some elucidation. I may try it again after the current Introduction to Evaluating Wine eGCI class is finished, as a measure to see how my perceptions and ability to describe them have changed.

I've been testing and tasting wines for a couple of years with friends, but still don't have good descriptions. I hope the present eGCI class will change that, but in the meantime, please bear with me. This is a pretty generic description. Columbia Crest Grand Estates Columbia Valley Merlot, 2001 On first opening: Deep garnet color, coats the glass, no legs that I can see. Aroma pleasant, fruity, rather light-bodied. The first sip was pretty astringent - due to tannins? I let the glass sit 30 to 40 minutes and tried again. The dry salami I had in the meantime may have influenced my palate, but the wine seemed less astingent. After an hour, the wine was definitely smoother, but also not as fruity. Still some tannins (I think). It wasn't quite a one-note wine; as it sat on the the tongue the flavor changed and improved. This was a drinkable wine, but not as good as other merlots I've had in the same price range. Without having a good term for it, I'd say it struck me as dark, rather musty, and almost sullen. Andrea Immer says some wines improve after a night - or in some cases two - so I let the rest of the bottle sit until tonight. There was a definite improvement. 2nd night: Aroma light, fruity Flavor: pleasant, fruity (see, I told you my wine vocabulary is weak) Tannin bite is gone The flavor is better, brighter. Whatever seemed dark and sullen last night is gone. Tonight, it's a pretty good wine. I don't know that it's worth bothering to buy again, though. I have trouble envisioning myself buying a bottle of wine and opening it the night before I want to drink it. I've found other merlots that are friendly right after opening, for the same price.

Rocks are in short supply around here right now unless I go after them with an ice chisel. I think I have enough in my pet rock collection around the house to satisfy the requirement, but I'm wondering whether I should be selecting particular types. River stones? Aquarium gravel? Lava? Edited for lucidity

I am very fond of The Salt Traders' Danish Viking-Smoked Salt. It has a lovely dark amber color and distinctive smoky flavor that goes especially well with pork dishes and some pasta dishes. It reminds me, actually, of some flavor notes found in certain sausages and hot dogs. I'm glad to see some recommendations of other salt types. So far I've experimented with a Japanese Nazuna(?) sea salt and a Murray River Basin salt, and couldn't tell much difference from the regular Eden sea salt I usually keep around. I've been reluctant to blow money on further experiments, but with this thread's guidance I'll go exploring anew.

OK, I have 3 recipes for curried lamb from which to choose and will be choosing tonight. (The lamb is already thawing in the refrigerator.) Tomorrow I go to purchase the fresh spices, since my turmeric and cardamom (to name only a couple) are at least a year old. Here are my questions: 1. If I purchase whole spices and toast them, how will I know they're done toasting? 2. Are there certain spices in the typical curry recipe that won't need toasting and that I should purchase ground? (That probably depends on the recipe I finally pick, but maybe I can get some general rules here.) 3. For those of you who make your own garam masala, I'd like to know your preferred mixes. I tried making it once - can't remember whose recipe - and didn't like it, either by itself or in the final dish. I don't like cloves, in any form that I can detect, and I think that's what wrecked it for me. Is it total heresy to leave cloves out of garam masala? Nancy

Re the "neutral white wine" for the aroma kit: in general I avoid cheap California chardonnays because so many of them are heavily oaky. Is that not an issue for the aroma kit? Or is Gallo sufficiently oak-free that it won't matter? Would a sauvignon blanc do as well from a "neutral" standpoint?

I think you should ask that question over on the Lamb Curry, eGullet Recipe Cookoff IV thread in question. Folks over there should know. Besides, if you post your question there, I won't have to. edited for punctuation

How many acres are you working, and how many people are working it? Are you really all volunteers, or do you mean you get volunteer help with the most labor-intensive and time-critical operations, like pruning? (I remember being 'volunteered' to help sucker orange trees in my youth. At age 12 or so, volunteerism is a lot less voluntary. )

I don't remember the Monty Python routine, but how about the James Thurber cartoon caption? "It's a naive domestic Burgundy without any breeding, but I think you'll be amused by its presumption."

This is going to be fun! The infusions portion specifies "1 box cherries". I'm a bit confused because I don't normally associate cherries with boxes - except packing boxes, which are much too big. By inference with the box of raspberries and box of blackberries listed above, I'm guessing this is supposed to be about 1 pint of cherries. Is that right, or does it mean 1 box dried tart cherries? Is that the right quantity for the raspberries and blackberries?

Well, I have blisters from last night's Cajun Napalm, and a pot full of my first attempt at Fifi's Gumbo Goddess Chicken and Sausage Gumbo. I had to take a few liberties and make some command decisions due to some unanswered questions. 1. Half the Andouille disappeared at lunch when I wasn't looking. I knew the refrigerator was a safe place to store it, away from the dog and cats. I forgot about the other household member with opposable thumbs. I substituted some frozen old pancetta that had to go anyway, to supplement the remaining andouille. 2. Stung by this comment, followed by yet more discussion in the okra wars, I decided to tempt fate and slice up a few of the slimy buggers and put them in Fifi's precious okra recipe. I note that Fifi didn't scream when Snowangel did it, so maybe she cuts us northerners some slack. It came out pretty good, even though I stopped the roux too early. It had been browning so quickly, I was sure it was about to burn. Since the finished product wasn't as dark as my last attempt, I have to conclude I chickened out. I did notice that it smelled about the same as last time, even though last time I used lard and canola and this time I used peanut oil and canola. (I'm regretting wearing the same jeans today, though.) So, now for the questions. Please forgive me if they're answered above and I missed the answers: 1. If you're going to add okra, at what stage are you supposed to add it? I added it in with the trinity. 2. Is the chicken supposed to be cooked beforehand, or not, or does it matter? Fifi's recipe doesn't seem to use precooked chicken, but a lot of posters in this thread have done so. I didn't. I suspect it makes for a different, not necessarily better, or worse, product. FWIW, the okra was pretty much unnoticeable. I'm reminded of a former acquaintance's comment about his favorite venison recipe. He went on at great length about the marinade, the rum glaze, and so forth, and finished with "It's great! You can't taste the deer meat at all!" The only benefit of the pancetta was that it got it out of my freezer.

They aren't, if you shop eBay with patience. Of course, they're older and not necessarily as fine-mesh or high-tech as the newest ones. So far I've been happy with the one I got that was most like my grandmother's.

What does "3004 aluminum alloy" mean, and might it be less reactive than raw aluminum?

I'm not sure which specific brands are good, but I can tell you what to look for: make sure that the straining disk feels rough to the touch when you run your fingers over the holes on the inside (food holding side). The rough edges of the holes seem to be necessary to grip the food instead of letting it slide around when you crank. I bought a nice-looking stainless steel food mill, brand name forgotten, some inexpensive SS thing made in China. It was big enough to hold a lot of stuff and had 3 interchangeable disks for different straining sizes. It looked great and was easy to clean. Unfortunately, it didn't work worth beans. It just pushed stuff around instead of straining anything through the holes. I hate stuff that looks pretty and doesn't do its job. I went on eBay and picked up a small (1 qt) old Foley food mill. Wonderful. I think it may be tinned steel. It isn't as big as I'd like, and it doesn't have interchangeable disks, but it works. I love stuff that works. Foley is still around. I don't know what their food mills are like now. I do know that you should feel the interior screen before buying. If your fingers run gently over nice smooth holes, with no feeling of resistance (I'm not talking about cutting your fingers, by the way; it's more like very coarse sandpaper), don't buy it. Keep looking. Edited to add: a china hat (chinoise) might work for you, too. You can pick those up on eBay as well.

I should explain that I only know the cooking of the Mediterranean and the French Southwest and their claypot cooking styles. In Morocco, fish is almost always cooked in an unglazed pot called a tagra (see photo below). Not because of fear of flavor transfer but the shape is more 'fish-like' Before I can share what I know about claypot cooking I need to know which pot you were using. So many types of glazes, clays, additions of such minerals as mica, and shapes have a lot to do with the outcome of your braise. ← Well, I can answer some of those questions, but my Egyptian isn't good enough to have all the answers! In Egypt they call this particular pot a tagine, pronounced more or less "DAjin" with a broad 'a' as in 'ahh', and I picked it and the smaller bowls up because I like using them for moussaka. This type of clay cookware is as common as dirt around Luxor, and fortunately as cheap. They're unglazed. I think the clay must come from the stuff mined for the many potteries now - from somewhere near Aswan? can't remember where. Some potters closer to Cairo told me that the present conservation rules forbid using arable land from the Nile Valley for getting clay, so dry material is mined in the desert, brought in sacks of dry powder to the valley factories, and then mixed with water to make pottery clay. The initial cure involves coating the pot interior with molasses ("asl aswad") and cooking it in the oven in low heat for a long time. Temperature and time eluded our language skills. I've managed so far not to break anything. I think really well-seasoned pots may have a heavier coating. Here are a top view of the larger pot that I used as well as one of the individual bowls. That's an orange in front, for size comparison. The side view of the tagine gives a better idea of its shape. And yes, I know this is totally different than a Moroccan tagine. Someday I hope to lay my hands on one of those babies. I've never seen them in Egypt. Edited to correct a trivial detail on the mining and shipping process, and an incorrect pronunciation note.