Michael M

A quick internet search says you're right, Monastrell is Mourvedre. I thought I'd just looked that up in the dictionary, but apparently I misremembered something. Actually, I'm usually fairly satisfied with the direction I get purchasing wines, but I'm a sucker for trying out that unusual or cheap bottle I've never heard of!

So you see a bottle wine for $8 that interests you (end of bin? found it on a road trip in that little grocery store? noticed it in the Hungarian deli?). There's that sense of the unknown, of piqued anticipation as you open it at home - what is this grape, anyway? Will this be the next great find? Where the heck in [pick a country] is [unknown appellation]? Finally, you bring the glass to your nose, sniff, pour a sip, swirl it around a bit you think, well, there's another bottle I'll be cooking with. I can tell how badly I'm striking out on bottles like this by the choice of deglazing liquids I have in the fridge. By the middle of the summer I had quite a selection. I realize last week that I'd been out of don't-really-want-to-drink-them wines for a while and one reason was because I'd found some good bargains. Whites 2003 Antinori Campogrande Orvieto Classico, $9 60% Procanico, 20% Grechetto, 15% Verdello, 5% Drupeggio & Malvasia. Though from last year's scorching summer, this was a crisp lean burst of citrusy orange-grapefruit, light in the mouth, delightful on its own and with seafood. 2002 Forchir Villa del Borgo Friuli Grave, $8 100% Chardonnay, stainless steel. Bright, floral and honey nose with some gentle mineral overtones, nice balanced tartness. A barely off-dry quaffer with some citric spine. 2002 Chateau Moncountour Vouvray, $10 on sale 100% Chenin Blanc. Pale, pale straw - barely colored, but with bright lemony fruit jumping out of the glass, light in the mouth with a slight, round creaminess to it. With a vivid fruit-to-acid ratio and the smell and taste of mineral, this was a great bargain, and I wish I'd gotten more when it was on sale. 2003 Domaine du Tariquet Vin de Pays des Cotes de Gascogne, $6 Ugni Blanc. Light, off-dry summer porch-sipper. Simple, straightforward, with a price to match. 2004 Hope Estate Verdelho, Hope Valley, Oz, $11 (well, not quite under $10) Creamy nose with mineral, bright citrusy-lime fruit. Light to medium bodied, nicely tart limey-ness balanced with green apple, more lush in the mouth than any of the previous, yet still clean, vibrant, refreshing. Different and fun. Apparently there's more of this Portugese grape planted in Oz than I thought, much of it in Hunter Valley. Rose 2003 Mirasol Navarra, (Spain), $8 100% free run Grenache, stainless steel. Wow! I loved this fruity, steely, mineral rose! Very aromatic - imagine a creek bed of stones with fresh, clean water and the smell/taste of light red berries and lemons. Firm, taught, yet fruity. Think garlic shrimp, olives, manchego. Red 2001 Santi Solane, Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Ripasso, $8. How can they sell stuff this good and still make money? Plum, dark cherry, raspberry on the nose with a delightful grounding of earthy damp leaves, dusty autumness. Round, lush, ripe cherry fruit on the palate with woodsy backing, rich and inky but nicely structured and balanced with nice acids. Lamb and sheep's milk cheese went well with this. 2001 Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano, $9 Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Canaiolo. I think many know this one anyway, but it's such an autumn wine to me. Opaque purple, it smells like it looks: dark crushed blackberries and cassis, some cherry and hints of licorice and vanilla, but most of all, this fruit is infused with the smell of earth and fresh rain. Medium bodied, all this fruity/earthiness balanced by a sharp acid core and some nice woody tannins. Dry, firm-textured autumn fruit. 2001 Silvano Garcia Tinto, Jumilla, Spain, $8. 85% Monastrell (Carignan/Carignano/Carinena), 15% Tempranillo Very concentrated cherry/dried berry aroma, followed by wood, earth, fresh rain. Plump and fruity with a zingy acidity, moderate to low tannins but a pleasant grounding of soil. Dry, earthy cherry finish.

I look forward to your perspective!

I posted this on the Italy forum, but it just occurred to me that this one might be more appropriate. I've been stumbling along the past few years attempting to figure out how to change careers while still keeping my current one. I have a passion for food, wine and Italy, and lately have been taking more seriously my study of wine and the Italian language, taking some classes, talking with people in the business (wine, food, etc.) trying to find some direction. I have time off at the end of December that I will be using to take an Italian language course in either Bologna or Florence, depending on ticket prices. I've been to both before on vacation, but am looking to approach this week as a learning session, as well as trying to figure out...well, what career am I stumbling towards exactly? So, do you have any recommendations for wineries I could visit near either of these cities? I have quite a list from books, but no personal recs. I'm also a big fan of wines from Puglia, the Tre Venezie and Piedmont - I will have a few extra days without classes that I could take a train somewhere if there are a collection of wineries nearby. Or wine bars, for that matter. Or if you have the answer for me, and know my future career, letting me know now would be really nice, too. Thanks!

I'll miss seeing you here as well, Craig. Thanks for the help, I'll see you on vinocibo.com.

Fascinating to me. Thanks.

DoverCanyon - thanks for the interesting info. Toasted pips - do you really toast them to add something to a super-fruity wine like a Zin? Mabye a bit of extra structure?

DoverCanyon, help me understand this. Sweetness emphasizng spice...in the wine or in food? I thought alcohol brings up spiciness levels in food, sugar levels matching better (Sauv. Bl. with Thai rather than Zin, i.e.). Or do you mean sweetness level in, say, a Syrah, emphasize its spicy overtones? Sugar balancing high alcohol? Give me the down-and-dirty winemaker's perspective on this, as I can't quite understand this. Though I do know that higher alcohol can yield the perception of higher sweetness. Creating heavy texture - this I assume is glucose adding body? I love this kind of info.

Thanks both for these replies. I'm confused about ozone being present in leaves, since ozone is a gas. On leaves? But the ozone generators make some sense, though not if you're only getting it with one wine. I often get this smell, but have never heard it as a descriptor. Anyone else notice this, too?

Right, I should have been specific. I don't mean hell and brimstones sulfuric ozone, but the "supercharged fresh air" smell you're referring to.

Think midwest thunderstorms, lightning slashing, pounding rain. Besides damp concrete and earth, the other smell I associate with this is ozone, created by lightning. I'm not sure how else to describe it, except if you're not from a thunderstorm-prone area, there are "fresh air" products from places like Sharper Image, et al., that produce ozone. It smells fresh, clean, rainy, happy. For science geeks, it's O3 vs. earth's atmosphere's typical O2. But my question is - why do I smell it in some wines? It's not a bad thing at all to me, usually coming across along with earthy smells. Think deep forest after a rain. I think I get it mostly in reds, especially the earthier ones like Pinot Noir or Sangiovese. Anyone know?

Demi-sec. Which is why I couldn't stop drinking it. Odd to be typing this now, as it's back to 60-degree weather and sangioveses this evening.

I agree with Katie on this. In cultures where wine has not been considered a regular part of the meal, there is that mystique surrounding wine - it's for elitists, only for special occasions, it involves arcane terms that need to be studied to be understood, etc. So what's wrong with wine being marketed as a fun, everyday foodstuff? Hopefully it will create those future wine drinkers, and they can step up later to other, more complex wines. I have plenty of chateau-print unexciting French labels in my basement (right beside those equally uninspiring German ones), but am as visually attracted to interesting labels as the next person.

I found out this summer that the area surrounding Chicago is considered an unstable meteorological area by the National Weather Service, and this "summer" has been yet another example of why. Jet stream too far south this "summer" (is my bias obvious yet?) yielded crisp 60-degree days most of July (normal = mid-80's), making the month feel more like October. Now that September is here, we've had 2 weeks in the mid-to-upper-80's, making it feel like The July We Missed. Typical Chicago 12-hour meteorological moment: Last night, dinner time, 85 degrees, 90% humidity; this morning, 59 degrees, 50% humidity. This isn't all that unusual, either. For me it has meant that I've enjoyed one of my new favorite inexpensive summer sippers with grilled seafood and vegetables, followed the next cool autumnal day by a new, gamey fall red, followed by the same summer sipper the next pantingly hot summery evening. I have a fridge full of half-empty multi-seasonal wine bottles. The summer sipper: 2002 Chateau Moncontour Vouvray, $11.50 I love French Chablis. In the summer especially, it's like sipping a light, liquid lemon cream pie. This one is so pale green as to be nearly transparent, creamy lemon and mineral on the nose, lively fruit in the mouth with a great acid/lemony-fruit/mineral ratio, with a nice roundness to the body. Not the longest finish, but you're usually taking another sip by that point anyway. 2001 Dal Fari Schioppettino, Colli Orientali del Friuli, $16, I think A new grape to me, but I'm in love with it. Talk about your fall wines! This has a musky, gamey, spicey nose to its otherwise blackberry/dried berry aromas. A medium-bodied sip yields the same musky-gamey dark/dried berry-ness with bits of green and black pepper and leafy earth. Dry, rough and brambly, with moderate tannins and low acids. A nice medium long finish of earthy spice. I had this with pork stuffed ravioli and aged raclette, which was great, but I can see this with grilled game or lamb. This grape is also called Ribolla Nera and is grown, as far as I know, only in the Friuli region. I'll be seeking out more of this grape if possible.

I agree with Brad about the lighting. Sit at the tables and you get odd fluorescent lighting, at the bar is warmer halogen lighting. If you go early enough to get to a play, you might be ok. The times I've gone there early (before 7:30), I haven't needed to wait. By the time I've left, there's been a line. They cure their own salumi, if you like that (which I do). I've not been disappointed by their wines or their food so far.

Thanks for your suggestions! And BTW, I live in Chicago, so have access to a number of different stores. Off I go with my list.

For the past few years I've been contemplating switching careers into the wine field, though I'm not sure what that means just yet. Some classes, much studying and even more sipping later, I feel like I've barely scratched the surface. I guess they say that the first step to mastering a subject is to realize how much you don't know. And part of my problem is that at home I tend to focus on (hopefully) great under-$15 wines that I can afford to drink every day. Over the years, it's helped my palate to open up 2 or 3 bottles of one type of wine or grape and compare them. So I feel confident that my palate can at least identify the flavor profiles of some of the basic grapes and their styles. But I really can't say that until I'm able to identify what makes a better-than-I-usually-drink wine better. So, want to help? I love Sangiovese, and I figure it's mostly grown (successfully) in Italy, so there isn't a New Zealand style Sangiovese vs. an Argentinian style just yet. Can you recommend a mid-level S. to compare to my usual, then also an upper-level? Maybe a series of Brunellos and a series of Chiantis?

The scene: Labor Day Weekend in Chicago: sunny skies, warm, balmy temperatures, a general feeling of lassitude not found pretty much the rest of the summer due to hyperbolically unseasonal temps (and large amounts of afternoon thunderstorms). Ah. Perhaps the best summer weekend of the year. Perhaps the only one of the year, really. The wine: Antinori Orvieto Campogrande '03 Disclaimer: palate and nose may be affected by incredibly warm and sunny weather. Mineral citrus wafting from the glass, with an occasional flowery overtone (from the Malvasia?). Grapefruit and a bit of orange predominate, maybe some orange-blossom, it smells lean and slatey. Is that a word? For $9, the taste that follows is nearly perfect for my palate: a light wine that floats around your mouth, the citrusy tang of grapefruit starts, with a very slight bit of sweetness to balance it out. All of it is grounded in a nice minerality, with a slightly bitter grapefruit-pith finish. Fruit, acids nicely balanced, and there's just enough off-dryness there to drink alone with some olives or the leftover salumi from Saturday night's dinner, but really great with the cold grilled shrimp from same dinner. This is from the Orvieto Classico DOC.

Sara, I remember you commenting on my Madison report sometime (last year, this summer?). It does have a lot to offer, and I think the capitol Farmer's Market is the main Food Happening in the city - just a great place to spend a Saturday morning. Glad you liked Barriques, as I do. It's refreshing to be able to try wines for as little as $4/glass. Try finding that in Chicago! They have 3 locations. The one in Fitchberg is their largest, with selections of cheese, olive oils, etc. Never been here, but am wanting to visit. The guy pouring the wine for their Monroe St. wine-tasting one Saturday also highly recommended Magnus on Wilson St., a recommendation we've been getting for both their wine list and their food. If you go, let us know. I've heard they source organic beef and produce. For lunch, try Bandung (Indonesian, on Willy where it begins near the lake), and the Loation restaurant on Willy St. whose name I can't remember, between Willy St. and the lake. The latter is an excellent place, the former I've only been to once, but was enjoyable and interesting. Definitely try Harvest and share your thoughts: food is very nice, but not at the level of neighbor L'Etoile, service is always friendly but not well-trained.

Craig, Thanks!

Craig, Can you help me with the meaning of "tenuto" in regards to wine? I've seen it and assumed it to mean something like land holdings, vineyard?

Boy, do I spend a lot of time lurking here, gathering great rec's, researching purchases, but never contributing. I was doing this again tonight thinking to myself, "Shouldn't you contribut something?" Much fretting of the guilt muscles later, I figured I'd toss out 2 recent everyday wines I enjoyed as (I hope) karmic payback. #1) 2003 Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc; Marlborough, NZ. I really, really love this grape in all its forms, especially this time of the year. After being wowed by the 2002 last year, I snapped up a few 2003's when they came out. Had one bottle right away, and it was sort of like sucking on a kumquat (not a good sell, I realize, but wait...). But now, only a few months later, on a rare 85 degree sunny day here in Chicago, I tried it again. The acidity had mellowed and: poppingly bright citrus and passionfruit on the nose, backed by little hints of mineral. It's the kind of whiff that makes you salivate. A nice, somewhat plumpish, round mouthful of lively tropical fruits follows, the acids now an exhilirating citrusy tang, all grounded by some nice minerally notes. Just barely off-dry. Yum. $12. Had it by itself (so so), with some goat and sheep cheeses (excellent) and a spicy white bean soup (great). #2 2001 Val Cerasa Etna Rosso, Sicilia. This $11 is an incredible bargain. Grown in the volcanic soil of Mr. Etna, it's a blend of Sicilian Nerello Mascalese (80%) and Nerello Capuccio (20%). Do you like the dark, rich, romantic flavor profile of Negro Amaro or Pinto Nero? Then this is for you as well. A rich, welcoming, plummy, baked dark cherry nose with an enticing seductive earthiness and hints of smoke. What follows is a medium bodied, nicely balanced fruit cup of the cherry, plum, bits of green pepper and that earthy/smokey quality, all nicely grounded with moderate tannins and acidity. Very fruit forward, yet with real balance. Nice long finish as well. I've had this alone, with red-sauced anything, and with grilled lamb. It's all good.

Paul, What I meant by comparing the two was simply the points you brought up: both ventures revolve around the idea of locally source, organically grown produce prepared seasonally in a way that educates as well as pleases gastronomically. But I see your point; no need to imply that her skills or concepts were developed by following Waters' lead. Thanks for the additional info, as well.

Great thread here, especially given the season. Just like to add that I've made preserves for about 6 years now with a much lower sugar % than those mentioned here, just for personal flavor (and texture) preference. I.E., strawberry preserves are about 10% sugar, the strawberry/raspberry was 15% sugar, etc. I macerate them overnight, cook the liquid to around 220 F, then add the fruit. I do, however, store the jars in a small refridgerator downstairs even though the jars are sterilized and sealed, just in case.

Thanks. I just made a trip up north where there were still sour cherries, so will be continuing the experimentation with gelatine as well as egg whites (leftover from the yolks used in milk gelati, of course!).