Michael M

Right, that was the original reason behind my post: some long term Barolos and Brunellos, German/Austrian whites and Burgundies. I ended up getting the Avanti 166-bottle cooler for $1200 with free delivery from a local place who I've had good service from. The advantage is that it's inexpensive compared to others with similar capacity, but didn't get such poor reviews like Wine Enthusiast's Build Your Own cellars. Reviews warned that the capacity is overrated, and it is: standard Bordeaux bottles are fine, but burgundy or rhone style bottles reduce the capacity, and thicker shouldered bottles are a tight, tight fit, making the shelves hard to pull out. The shelves are removable if you'd like to store magnums. Also, the digital display shows a temp that is about 8-9 degrees F higher than what a digital thermometer shows on the inside, though simply adjusting the temp down is all that's necessary. I fit about 145 bottles in it. The compressor is quiet and doesn't cycle much since it's not opened often. All in all I'd recommend it if you're looking for a less expensive way to safely store 145 bottles.

Another option! Thanks!

I can certainly understand. Are the shelves adjustable? I was hoping to spend less, though.

It's finally happened where I'm more concerned with the wine I have stored in the basement than I though I would be in the past. Some of these need to age, and the basement gets into the low 70's (F) in the summer, which I hate. I've considered a portable AC unit, but then would have to figure out how to vent it, and there's no door on the basement. So now I'm thinking about a wine refrigerator, one for storing, not chilling. I came across the Avanti WCR682SS which claims to house 166 bottles for about $1200, but reviews say it doesn't hold odd-sized bottles well (I'm guessing thicker-shouldered and longer-necked bottles) and the shelves don't adjust. I want a relatively inexpensive solution for around 100 bottles, as I'm likely to be moving soon. Anyone use this refrigerator or know of other, better options?

Thanks for the info, and the link. Can it be as bad as Chicago? Maybe all the Bostoners are busy sipping their summer Ugni Blancs...

I have a few possible transfers in the works and one of them is Boston. I'm currently in Chicago which doesn't really have a great wine scene - some restaurants have great lists, but wine isn't in really in the community consciousness. What's Boston like in your opinion?

We bought some of the Camp Gros Martinega and Gaiun Barbaresos, both 2001's, I think, as well as the Monte Columbo. I didn't try their Merlot, but was really taken with the typical varieties there (including their regular Barbaresco and Barbera).

This bill goes into effect June 2, 2008, and from what I understand, retailers in other states won't be able to ship into Illinois anymore. Does anyone know what's going on here? I know part of the bill involves wineries of certain sizes being able or not being able to ship, but the retailer part sounds ridiculous. Anyone know the scoop?

Sadly, Il Laboratorio di Resistenza Dolciaria was closed when we were there. Gelatissimo must have been closed as well, or we didn't run into it; perhaps next time! Thanks for the additional places. I can't imagine anyone not liking La Libera - when you visit, post here! I'd love to know about their seasonal menu changes.

Yes, we had the squid, too; delicious! The second part of our trip was in Alba, and for such a moderately sized city it has an enormous gastronomic/enologic footprint. Nestled in the beautiful Langhe hills, it has much to offer the traveler who likes to eat (and drink). We stayed at a B and B within a few minutes walking distance of the city, Villa La Favorita. The best pastries we had in Alba were made by Giovanna, one of the women who worked there. Breakfasts were big affairs, and the proprietress, Roberta, was gracious and informative. We had lunch one day at Vigin Mudest,, enticed by the description of its antipasti. It was a great choice. We lunched with a scattering of Italian businessmen and families (that obviously showed up just after the picture!): I'm not sure if I can name all the antipasti, but I'll try. Among the cold antipasti, at 12:00 there was a chicken salad, a spinach fritatta, bean salad, an artichoke fritatta, and fennel salad in the center: Veal tonnato, ricotta, salumi: For the hot antipasti, roasted red peppers, polentas, eggplant and my favorite (hidden in pic), sausage in barolo sauce. Though a little salty, it was delicious: Osteria dell'Arco was a favorite meal of ours, though only two pictures turned out. A wonderful ravioli with spinach, prosciutto and cheese: ...plus a tender Tajarin with butter and sage: ...and a wonderful cold trout salad, perfectly poached and seasoned with a light sprinkling of lemon juice. It could have been the preparation or the type of lemon (from Sorrento?), but I thought this was a perfect dish: La Libera was the highlight of our trip. We liked it so much we went back 2 days later for our final meal. The service is warm, the place is contemporary and well-designed, and the food fantastic. A great wine list, as well. My favorite dish of the trip was their maltagliati (handkerchief pasta) with fresh spring baby vegetable sauce (a literal if awkward translation!): Pasta (the one from Gragnano...candele?) with those small grilled fish (begins with an "s"...?), and capers: The nice thing about both meals was that even with a bottle of wine, we never spent more than 100E, though we split a secondo both times. The also have a great selection of cheeses for dessert, as well as at least one pear tart that was well done. For wine lovers, we had planned tastings at two different wineries, Rocche dei Manzoni and Marchesi di Gresy. I've loved their wines for years, and the experience at both places was excellent. The cellarmaster at M di G is from New Zealand, so English is not a problem for those concerned. Only Italian was spoken at R d M, but their cellars (and the Verdi that comes on when the lights are switched on, the marble walls and painted columns, yes, in the cellar) are not to be missed. We tasted at the Regional Enoteca of Barolo, which was also a good place to visit, and many languages were spoken there. Producers are vetted before being allowed in, and prices are the same as at the wineries: There were only 2 wine bars open during the time we visited (around Easter) Vincaffe on the main street at one end and Bar Brasilia (or something like that) at the other. Vincaffe was noisy with Europop music and full of people each night. They had a decent selection of wines by the glass, decent bar food (salumi, etc.) but often so crowded that good conversation with the workers about the wine was limited. It is a bar/restaurant, too, but we only drank there. It was less wine-focused than the others I mentioned in Bologna, but the wine is so good in Piemonte that it seems beside the point to complain. Bar Brasil(ia?) was similar in spirit, but with a contemporary design, and a bit more focus on wine and better food. They also had one of those tasting machines where better wines were kept and you could pay-by-the-taste. I'm sorry, but I don't have an address for this, but it's on V. Emanuale and the Piazza Savona. Good pastries and coffee were at Golosi di Salute, a place for "healthier" sweets. They also had chocolates and a small menu. There's a B & B attached to this place whose name I missed, but certainly the breakfasts would be nice. There was a lot of literature about the different sweeteners they used and how they affected the body. I should have noted that the Sorbetteria Castiglione in Bologna also changed their recipes lately to reflect different sweeteners and a different approach to the glycemic index qualities of sweets. Health aside, it was our favorite coffee in Alba, and our second favorite pastries, all in a spanking new contemporarily designed store. By far our favorite gelato was at Sacchero. A small store with a focused selection, we were sad to find them open only twice during this holiday time! Finally, a big pitch for a wonderful deli, Alla Dispensa del Convento. We were looking to purchase some cheeses and meats to take home, and went into one promising deli (well-recommended, too), where the owner didn't want to offer any tastes of his products other than the one cheese and one salami already sitting out, neither of which were particularly impressive. So we meandered across the street to Alla Dispensa into a different world. The owner was wonderfully helpful and full of stories about each cheese and meat product: who the makers were, what kind of grazing they animals had, where they were located. She kept opening cheeses and salami, insisting that we try just one more. Her nephew, it turns out, is involved in the Slow Food movement (so perhaps this place is well known?) and was also very friendly. His best childhood friend was a beekeeper who raised them fungicide free and they had his chestnut honey there. This went on for an hour, the conversation and the tastes, and of course we bought enormous amounts of food from them. As an aside, I don't understand the business sense of the previous proprietor, but it did lead us to this place. Highly recommended! In the past few people have actually responded to these posts, but many view them, so I hope this will be helpful to you planning your trip! If you have any more detailed questions, please feel free to email me. Alla Dispensa del Convento V. Vitt. Emanuele, 19 Alba www.alladispensadelconvento.it Sacchero Gelato e Cioccolato V. Vitt. Emanuele, 32 Golosi di Salute Piazza Rossetti, 6 Alba Vincaffe V. Vitt. Emanuele, 12 Alba La Libera V. Elvio Pertinace, 24 Alba Osteria dell'Arco Piazza Savona, 5 Alba Villa La Favorita Loc. Altavilla, 12 Alba Vigin Mudest V. Vernazza, 11 Alba

Our most recent trip was to Bologna and Alba. I've made numerous reports on Bolonga, so won't go into repetitive detail here. I still love Godot Wine Bar, though they've sold their wine-bar-cum-store on V. S. Stefano (it's now a middling wine bar with new owners) but still have their wine-bar-cum-restaurant on V. Cartoleria. Always a good selection of Italian wines by the glass, with a few French and Australian ringers, with good food selections and knowledgeable staff. Just next door was our favorite new place, Drogheria Della Rosa. We had a fantastic meal during which none of the pictures turned out. I do know the price with a bottle of wine was around 80E, and that the tortellini in brodo was excellent and the service warm. Basic Bolognese dishes, I don't believe there was a menu, a nice wine list. I still love Enoteca Italiana, an enoteca with a vast Italian selection, as well as spirits and chocolates/dry goods. They offer a nice selection of wines by the glass each day with sandwiches/salami. Knowledgeable, helpful staff. We tried Divinis for the first time, a little wine bar we'd definitely return to. Many Italian wines by the glass, a much more broad selection of meats and cheeses to go with. A very cozy place with a nice owner. Next door to Battibecco, for those who like more expensive fare (have never been; one can eat so well for less). We also finally made it to Caffe Pasticceria Zanarini, though it's always been close. They have a fabulous selection of free snacks during happy hour, great coffee pastry in the mornings, and a nice prosecco selection. And there's sun on their outdoor tables in the afternoon, much needed for our March visit! An overall classy place I'm sorry we'd missed before. Bologna has many nice gelato places (reported on before: Sorbetteria Castiglione, et al.), but Grom, the new chain from Milano, just opened a branch here, and there's was the cleanest and purest gelato we'd had in the city - lower fat contents, not overly sweet, full of flavor. I think they just opened one in New York. Ristorante Cesarina (not da Cesare) was a middling experience. Nice if stuffy service, and the dishes we had were just fine, but not great. We would have preferred the trattoria experience at Anna Maria's. However, their tortellini in brodo was our favorite of the trip: We also liked their gnocchi, though not as much as the previous: We were, however, very happy with Marco Fadiga Bistrot. A great place, with all the dishes impressing. Here's their menu (I refuse to use flashes in restaurants, so of course I suffer a little in trying to read what's here): Their risotto with shrimp was a highlight of the trip: Again, great service, tons of locals, a meal with a bottle of wine for 80E or so, but with an inventive flair. I've said enough in other posts about how much I love Pasticceria Atti (see previous posts) but since we were visiting around Easter, we got a snack from them one day to eat in the park, a spinach tart with egg, and it was so delicious I had to take a picture to share: By the way, for those who like hiking, few guidebooks talk about the beautiful parks within walking distance of the city, Parco Ghigi and Parco San Lorenzo. They are not to be missed, and are only about 20 minutes from the southern edge of the city. Parco Ghigi: Parco San Lorenzo: Going to Bologna is like revisiting an old friend. The majority of our trip was centered on Alba, a place new to us. An amazing gastronomic city for one of its size, set in the center of an equally amazing wine area, both in the beauty of the Langhe hills, and the quality of the wines. As soon as I get the photos shrunk to size and uploaded, I'll post more. We took more pictures, as it was a new experience to us. Godot Wine Bar Via Cartoleria, 12 Bologna Drogheria Della Rosa Via Cartoleria, 10 Bologna Enoteca Italiana Via Marsala, 12B Bologna Divinis Via Battibecco, 4C Bologna Caffe Pasticceria Zanarini Piazza Galvani, 1 Bologna Grom Via D'Azelio, 13 Bologna Marco Fadiga Bistrot Via Rialto, 23/C Bologna

I've been 3 times, and enjoyed it more the first 2 times than I did this past year. It is a warm, cozy place, though, with great service and enough to get me to return.

Notice I put wine first? A last-minute use of air miles has bought us 2 cheap tickets to Montreal for the second weekend in November. It all happened quickly, and I haven't even looked at a map of the city yet, or done my usual extensive pre-vacation food research: where to try the best patisseries/boulangeries, great wine bars, seasonally oriented restaurants, interesting little places. Browsing here got a few good hits. We don't even have a hotel yet, but perhaps a good area to stay in would be nice. We're from Chicago and lived in N.Y., and when we travel we'd prefer to stay in neighborhood areas (like SoHo or Old Town in Chicago) rather than tourist central (Michigan St. in Chicago or Union Station in NY). Advice here? Things we love: good wine and servers who love it and know it, too. Good coffee. Great bakeries. All suggestions welcome! Thanks!

I love this stuff, yet rarely find much of it locally. I'd love to have a list of good producers to carry around whenever I happen to run into it. In general, I'd trust anything imported by Lynch or Rosenthal, but are there some favorites out there? Thanks!

For a flippant answer, no. Tires and most shoes aren't painstakingly grafted, planted, watered in their first few seasons, trimmed, etc. just in order to get them established in the soil. The soil/site itself isn't carefully chosen for its mineral content/sun exposure, etc. And their vines aren't carefully tended each growing season, which comes with nail-biting during fall rain/hailstorms, etc. I do understand what you're saying, though, JohnL, and I'm sure many artisan producers are happy when their products are simply enjoyed. But I'm also sure the extra layer of knowing the care and attention given to crafting that wine/cheese does mean something to many consumers in an increasingly mass-produced world. It does to me. And just as many travellers go on cruises, visit 4 countries in 5 days and then can say they've been to Venice and Marseilles, etc., there are similar wine consumers who can show off the picture of them with the winemaker and say, hey, look how sophisticated I am - I know wine! Now pour me some of that White Zin, please, and microwave another pizza.

I actually printed out a post of yours to take with me about pizza, and those were on the list, I believe. Must visit Bilancione, and of course the other pizzerias!

Thanks for the compliments! Our visit to Naples was different for us, because we'd never been there before, so part of the time was spent figuring out our bearings. I must say that this was a little easier than in other larger European cities like Rome, Milan, Paris, etc. whose streets twist and meet up four or five at a time. There are a few major roads that you can follow if you're directionally challenged (ahem...), and not too many of those intersections of 7 streets like in Milan. Our goal here was to sample seafood, pizza and sfogliatelle, while searching out interesting places for wine. We also planned to hike up the mountain on Ischia, but it rained that day; justification for another trip. CHOCOLATE Gay-Odin received glowing reviews in many non-food-oriented guides to Naples, and I just don't get it. Their filled chocolates are dumped into a bin together at the store we visited (there are at least 3 in Naples). This had the effect of marring the surfaces. Then, the chocolate by itself wasn't even good. There were a few non-filled chocolate only pieces, and they weren't even worth finishing. I can't imagine this being on off day. We missed our usual choco haunt in Rome this year (La Bottega di Cioccolato , Via Leonina, 82). Darn. COFFEE Wow, did we love the coffee at Caffe Mexico! I have not done enough research to find out how this Neopolitan institution came by this name (there are at least 2 in Naples), but their coffee was great, both the espresso and cappuccino. Very unassuming little place on the Piazza Dante, its straight caffe was smooth and full, with just a touch of bitter. We hustled over there each morning after discovering it, though didn't bother with any of the few pastries offered (you'll understand when you see them). Its drink rivals San Eustachio and Taza d'Oro in Rome, easily. I assume this is unrelated to the Caffe Mexico in Milan by the train station, since I recall it being more of a pasticceria, with an emphasis on the Sicilian, but I'm not sure. PIZZA/FRIED FOODS, TAKE AWAY Walking along the Via Tribunali with its narrow, cobbled streets, produce vendors and small shops, I was reminded of Bolonga: stacks of artichokes at every other stall, trays of fresh fish (including the one with live octopus in a bowl of oxygenated water), vendors selling food. This street gets every cruise ship tour visiting mid-afternoon, I think, though this is hardly a tourist-choked city, due in part to its reputation as dangerous and/or dirty. But most of this time this little strip is a gem. Pizzeria di Matteo had a superb pizza to go (much touted here). The outdoor market on Via Pignanesca also felt Bolognese. At the end near the funicular is Friggitoria Rosticceria , and for 1 Euro will fill a bag with various fried goodies, sprinkle some salt on them, and you're good to go until your next stop. There were fried balls of bread dough, fried polenta, fried something-cheesey (?) and fried eggplant. The polenta was better than popcorn, really. PIZZA eGullet already has lists of favored pizza joints, and we couldn't possibly visit them all. Our first dinner was at Umberto's . It's a larger restaurant, filled with travelling businessmen, families, other locals and a few tourists (though I imagine there would have been more earlier in the evening; it's well-advertised in the English-speaking travel world). What I liked about them was their service: I explained that we were here to sample their food and get their advice on a few dishes, as well as their wine recommendations. The servers were very accommodating, and we liked everything. The seafood pastas were very good, but the pizza was our favorite of the trip. The pizza at Umberto: We tried this same approach at Ciro , with different results. We were seated downstairs and had a very friendly, older waiter who was obviously happy to have us. It occurred to us later that most people were going upstairs, where there was a better view, and more people. Note: ask to sit upstairs. We approached him the same way in terms of asking for a certain number of dishes of a certain type, etc. We ended up getting 2 appetizers and a pizza simultaneously (not what we'd asked for) and the pizza was a bit cooler than freshly cooked. It was ok, but might have been better 5 minutes previous. The food was good, though I like Umberto's better, and I couldn't shake the off feeling I got from not getting what I'd asked for. We stumbled upon Gorizia for lunch after visiting the tranquil Villa Floridiana, not knowing it had been mentioned here already. Top notch service. After looking at the wine list and seeing some older, less fresh bottles of Italian whites, yet seeing different ones offered on the shelf near me, I asked about this. The waiter left and came back with a number of more appropriate bottles from the back, none of which were mentioned on the list. We liked our pizza here a lot, though our seafood risotto wasn't great - rather bland. But their grilled vegetable aperitivi were fantastic - lightly grilled, still crunchy, doused in good oil and lemon; I could have eaten the entire case. RESTAURANT I was pretty glum the evening before we were supposed to go hiking on Ischia because the gathering clouds (and the hotel's internet) were revealing a 100% chance of rain the following day. We ended up leaving a day early after some last minute calls to our hotel back in Rome, so we decided to check out a nicer restaurant we'd heard recommended. What a fantastic choice, and I don't understand why it's not on everyone's list, because it's right near the water. It was filled entirely with Italians; not a tourist in site. The bar is at street level, and the restaurant is on the second floor, which may have something to do with it. Terrazza Calabritto is owned and run by two younger men (I think they're brothers), and the space is contemporary and stylish, with a wall of windows overlooking the water. Our amuse bouche was shrimp coated in almonds then fried (it even sounds good, but the sweetness of the two ingredients was an even better symbiosisin the mouth). A nice room-temp selection of cooked fish and shrimp with different sauces was delicious; I especially liked a combination of artichoke and shrimp, the former making the latter taste even sweeter. A nice risotto with shrimp and blueberries - well-cooked risotto, nice shrimp, didn't get much from the fruit except color. A superb paccheri (dried pasta) with shrimp and prawns in a light tomato sauce (our favorite pasta of the trip). A nice wine list, and a place I'd definitely return to. Four dishes, two desserts and a bottle of wine ran 110 Euros. It would be especially easy to get to if you were staying near the water in any of those giant hotels. SFOGLIATELLE Sfogliatelle/Sfogliate: there are other pastries in Naples, but since I love these so much anyway (especially the crunchy kind), I sought these out whenever I could find them. The combination of crisp, buttery outsides and the mildy sweet, fragrant ricotta inside has been my favorite sweet Italian creation since I tried them my first visit to Italy (ok, one of my favorites). Pasticceria Scaturchio had ones good enough to return to two or three times. There's a version called "Santa Ana" that seemed to just be sfogliatelle + lemon cream on top (not particularly interesting lemon cream, though). Their morning cappucino never lived up to their pastries. They also have gelato there, though we never tried it. The warm ones at Sfogliatelle Mary was our favorites, I think. Most places have little warmers to keep them in, but here you could see them pull them right out of the oven and into the waiting hands of the people in line. We also liked the ones at Bar-Pasticceria Augustus . We weren't overwhelmed with those at Pasticceria Pinatauro , though we tried them later in the day. WINE BARS We didn't come up with any great ones here, and the one with the most promise (one whose name I didn't write down, but it's at Via Scarlatti, 30, in the Vomero neighborhood) we never made it to. We did visit The Vinarium whose offerings were only on a menu, and were only so-so. The salumi/cheese was ok, but everything just felt off. The owner couldn't get the sound system to work, and ignored everyone for a while in this attempt. I'd try it again, maybe, not not right away. The Belladonna wine bar (Vico Belladonna, 18) was the one that listed "Merlot" but didn't know the producer. And the one at Via S. Sebastiano, 62 was the one advertising 5 shots for 10 Euro in its window. We did not go to either. GELATO Gelateria Scimmia we'd seen mentioned in a number of places, but their gelato produced in us nothing but a couple of shrugs. Nothing special there, and between us we had 4 flavors. The one that impressed us was Gelateria Otranto in the Vomero neighborhood. The nut and milk ones were great, and the fruit ones like biting into frozen produce. I with we'd gotten a picture of the chestnut gelato - it was translucent like a candied chestnut would be, and perfectly flavored. A nice find. I also included the address of the contemporary art museum in Naples. I was impressed with it, and it doesn't get much press. Well, I hope someone prints this out and marks their vacation map as I've done many others' posts. A book I'd recommend besides the usual ones (Fred Plotkin's, et al.) would be the The Food and Wine Guide to Campania by Mary Capalbo. It's had great information for us on our last two trips. Buon appetito! Wine Bar (name?) Via Scarlatti, 30 Naples Gelateria Scimmia Piazza Carita, 4 Naples Pasticceria Pinatauro Via Roma, 275 Naples Gay-Odin Chocolates multiple locations Naples Caffe Mexico Piazza Dante, 86 Naples Sfogliatelle Mary The Via Toledo entrance to the Galleria Umberto Bar-Pasticceria Augustus Via Toledo, 147 Naples Pizzeria di Matteo Via Tribulali, 94 Naples Friggitoria Rosticceria Fiorenzano Piazza Montestanto, 6 Naples Market Via Pignaseca, from Via Toledo to Piazza Montesanto Naples Ristorante Pizzeria Umberto Via Alabarieri, 30/1 Naples Ciro Via S. Brigida, 71/3 Naples La Barrique Piazetta Ascensione, 9 Naples Vinarium Vico S. Maria A Cappella Vecchia, 7 Naples Pasticceria Scaturchio Via Portamedina alla Pignasecca, 24 Naples Pizzeria Ristorante Gorizia Via Bernini, 29-31 Naples MADRE http://www.museomadre.it/ Naples Terrazza Calabritto Piazza Vittoria, 1 www.terrazzacalabritto.it Otranto Gelateria Via Scarlatti, 28 Vomero, Naples

My partner and I returned from a trip (March/April, 2007) to Rome and Naples. I've reported before on previous trips to Italy, and since I use this forum as one of my guides, I am once again repaying the debt in hopes that someone finds this information valuable. Our focus on these trips has been food and wine, for the most part. A great morning for me will include checking out 2 or 3 bar-pasticcerrie, have a coffee at each and sample their pastries, after a while finding a good one, then frequenting it the remainder of the trip. A great late afternoon/early evening will have us prowling the city for wine-centric wine bars (they aren't always), with knowledgeable and passionate people behind the bar. Later in the evening, I want a menu in my hand that has no English translations (though that's not always possible in some good places in these larger cities). This is the lens you should read this through; I'm trying to provide the kind of pre-vacation information I'm often seeking here on eGullet! Previous Rome/Campania report available here. Previous Rome/Bologna trip report available here. We've been to Rome 5 times before, so I'll just break down the food-related parts of the visit into categories: RESTAURANTS (TRATTORIE/OSTERIE) Cul de Sac started its life as a wine bar, but has morphed into a wine-focused restaurant. The wine list is excellent, Italian in focus and well-priced. The food is inexpensive and tasty, which explains the throngs of people that wait outside for a table. It's best to get here early for lunch or early/late for dinner. Because of its fluorescent lighting inside, I'd recommend this more as a lunch place, though if you can snag an outside table, it wouldn't matter. I reported on this in last year's trip, and recommend it for a light dinner or lunch. I think they have especially good soups and salads, and have a number of small plate items to try with the wines. Obika , the mozzarella bar/restaurant, we happened upon for a Saturday brunch, which would be a different experience, I expect, from their usual. One chooses from items at the bar (salumi, mozzarella, frittate, salads), then later from the dessert bar (pastries, puddings). Friendly service, a nice space, pleasant savory food, not-worth-it sweets, a small but interesting wine list with well-informed servers to guide you. It wasn't even the best mozzarella we had on the trip. It was only one visit, but the food itself didn't stand out enough to hasten our return, though we were recommended a great bottle of wine. Ditirambo I've reported about before, and gets plenty of press. We like it because it was our first "nicer" dinner in Rome years ago, when I'd mustered up enough fluency to ask for my own reservation; thus, it has a special place in our hearts. It's also just off the Piazza Navona, so it has a special place in many, many other tourists' hearts, though it has plenty of local patrons, especially later. What I like about them is their bit of ingenuity in their food, a smaller, more focused menu, and their excellent pastas and salads. I also reported more about them last year, with pix. Al Bric also gets lots of press and plenty of tourists. We fell into it against our better judgement on our first night, tired from the flight. There are two rooms, and on that night one seemed to be for Italians, the other for non-language speakers (English, Dutch, German, Japanese). As soon as I realized this I regretted our choice, even though we were in the apparent "non-tourist" room. Both rooms were packed at 10 p.m., and our waiter seemed to be working the entire place alone, with two helpers. Understandably harried, he nonetheless warmed up when asked for wine guidance, but rarely showed up after serving the food. The Vermentino was great, the two pastas fine, and the vegetable sides boiled in unsalted water, served with bottles of balsamic and olive oil. It was a great wine list, and we got the feeling we may have just ordered the wrong dishes (though the contorni were pretty sad). With so many great places, we won't be rushing back here, though. Roscioli Enoteca-Restaurant also gets plenty of love from the food press at large. We really enjoyed this. Their card says "Salumeria - Vineria - Formaggieria," though we went there for dinner. A totally superb experience all around, with the help of a great server who loved wine and was happy to make recommendations. A great wine list, great vegetable dishes, a fantastic tagliatelle with cinghiale, our favorite mozzarella di bufula of the trip, and a wonderful cheese and salumi selection. I wish our non-flash pictures had turned out better, because it's also a nice space. We will definitely go back. The family also runs the Antico Forno Roscioli around the corner. Ristorante Ferrara has impressed us on two previous visits. It has a more expensive menu, more creative touches, a well-trained, friendly and knowledgeable staff, and a nice space. There is a wine bar connected to the restaurant (Piazza Trilussa, 41) and an Enoteca on the other side (where we've often found some great wines we couldn't find elsewhere). This meal impressed us a little less than the others, but if you'd like a slightly fancier meal with dishes that stretch creativity a little, this is a good place. Examples: a "study" in baccala: one piece fried, another encased in ravioli, both moistened with an oyster sauce. Another, a tagliatelle with deer ragu - both dishes a bit mild, but interesting. The wine list is extensive. If you like Italian amari, please try the Di Meo Ratafia, made from Aglianico and herbs. It's even somewhat hard to find in Campania, where it's from, and you can sample it here and buy it if you like at the Enoteca. Spaghetti with anchovies at Ferrara: La Fraschetta is exactly the kind of place you want to stumble on your last night when you're trying to avoid any place that might have tourists. We usually stay in the Testaccio neighborhood, and I can't possibly recommend a better area. Full of Romans, especially young families with children, and not an English word to be heard. This place is very casual and inexpensive. They have beer, or a delicious, fresh house red for 7E/liter. I would skip the aperitivi at the bar except the excellent mozzarella di bufula, but the contorni would have been a great substitute, based on our neighboring table's dishes. The spaghetti fraschetta was excellent (tomato sauce with prosciutto and pepperoncino), as was the tagliatelle with cinghiale ragu. GELATERIE First, if the pistachio is neon green, I leave without trying the gelato. Occasionally you do find a place where they have a neon-green for the kids, and another for the adults. As a result, I'm less impressed by some well-touted gelaterie in Italy. Again, just keeping my point of view on the table. A new one for us, we thought Gelateria Pasqualetti had great gelato, and we returned three times to sample its choices. We never made it to perennial favorite San Crispino (though we should have). We were also a little less impressed with our one try of Gelateria A. Pica . We were more surprised by it last year, surprised by how much we liked it and had never heard of it. We only went once this time, and liked most of what we tried, but we didn't swoon, especially over the sorbetti. The owner is quite involved in the national gelato scene, so we'll definitely try again. Checco er Carettiere in Trastevere is well-known for their restaurant, but less so for their bar-pasticceria and gelato. We loved the latter the past two trips for their limone, strawberry and nut-based gelati. It does seem that some gelato makers do well with milk-based but not fruit-based gelato, and some vice-versa; here and at Pasqualetti, we liked both. WINE BARS When I walk into a wine bar, I like to see a list of wines by the glass on a chalkboard. The chalkboard implies a larger selection by the bottle, but with a sampling by the glass that changes. I want the producer listed, and I want the year. I want those pouring to like wine (not just, "I only drink red," and I want them to like it a lot), and I want them to know their selection. Really great food is necessary as well. In Italy, I want them to know about varietals and producers I'm unfamiliar with, usually avoiding the international varietals (unless they're blended creatively into a local grape). I have access to a lot of wines in the U.S., and am searching for something different in the time I'm there. If I were thorough, I'd list the places we searched out (especially in Naples, our first time there) that did not fit this rubric. The wine bar whose window advertised jello shots, or the one that listed "Merlot, Cabernet, Pinot Grigio" and when asked about producers, didn't know. A good eGulleter would have saved those names and addresses, but I didn't. What I can recommend, however, is: Il Gocetto in Rome is still my go-to place for great selection, great food and an intelligent staff. Run by Sergio Ceccarelli and his wife, they offer around 20 wines by the glass, with a large assortment of cheese, salumi, stuffed peppers and artichokes. Over the years I've found so many great wines through him that I can't begin to recount my favorites. You can also buy bottles to go. Il Gocetto: Al Vino Al Vino was one I'd go back to after only visiting once this trip. A smaller selection of wines by the glass, the woman by the counter was full of information about the whites, but didn't drink reds. The snacks were fine but not stellar, I think only cheeses and salumi. Cul de Sac and Bar Ferrara are both good choices, discussed in restaurants above. Bar Ferrara is a separate bar space away from the restaurant, whereas Cul de Sac is more of a restaurant where you can order as much or as little as you'd like. Two other wine bars looked promising. One was Enoteca Cavour , and the Art Nouveau Enoteca Constantini on the Piazza Cavour. BAR-PASTICCERIE Pasticceria Linari in Testaccio remains my favorite breakfast destination, if only because it's a small neighborhood populated entirely by local families and their children. I've never seen a tourist there, though they must exist. Their pastries are excellent, from their breakfast crostate to their arrogoste (which are filled with a brandy-spiked cream). Their coffee is good (these don't always go hand in hand), and I love coming here and eavesdropping on the local women gossiping in the morning. This is also near the local market, a haven for fresh produce and seafood. Gran Caffe Borgo is a nice place to go if you're staying near the Vatican. Their coffee is good, not great, and some of their pastries are very good. It's a nice place to start the day if you'd like to sit down at breakfast. Pasticceria Valzani in Trastevere specializes in chocolates, though they offer some pastries. This is not a bar to eat at, and they don't serve coffee. In fact, the service is almost always a bit abrupt, but their chocolates and cream-filled meringues really good. PIZZA/PANIFICI-PANETTERIE Here I'm referring to pizza by the slice, which I love. You can't go wrong with the pizzas at Panificio Arnese in Trastevere. Many, many visits confirm that their pizzas are divine, especially if you ask them to heat them up and eat them immediately. The artichoke with mozzarella is a personal favorite. Just don't forget to take a number. They use margarine in their cookies, and I've never liked them. Antinco Forno Roscioli is owned by the same family as the restaurant, and they're just steps away from each other. Their pizza is great as well, and their sweets are also excellent. Bonus pic. We happened upon a festival celebrating Roman artichokes. Lots of interesting information about different varieties, and carciofi alla guida and romana for sale. It was sponsored in part by Slow Food. Guess what the snail's made of: Naples report to follow. Antico Forno Roscioli Via Dei Chiavari, 34 Rome Pasticceria Valzani Via del Moro, 37 Trastevere, Rome http://www.valzani.it/ Cul de Sac Piazza Pasquino, 73 Rome Ferarra Ristorante Via del Moro, 4 Trastevere, Rome Pasticceria Linari Via Nicola Zabaglia, 9 Testaccio, Rome Antico Forno Roscioli Via dei Chiavari, 34 Roma Gelateria Pasqualetti Piazza della Maddelena, 3/A Rome (locations also in Orvieto and Ciconia) Obika Via dei Prefetti, 26 Rome Ditirambo Piazza Cancellaria, 74 Rome Panificio Arnese Via Del Politeama, 27 (on the Piazza Navona) Rome Al Vino Al Vino Enoteca/Bar Via De' Serpentini Rome Al Bric Via Del Pellegrino, 51 Rome Roscioli Restaurant/Wine Bar/Salumeria Via dei Giubbonari, 21-3 Rome Checco er Carettiere Via Benedetta, 7 Trastevere, Rome (Bar-Pasticceria/Gelateria/Hosteria/Ristorante) Gran Caffe Borgo Via Borgo Pio, 170-3 Rome, near the Vatican Enoteca Cavour Via Cavour, 313 Rome Enoteca Il Gocetto Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 14 Rome Volpetti http://www.fooditaly.com/ Rome La Fraschetta Via A. Volta, 36 Testaccio, Rome Alberto Pica Via Seggiola, 12 (of Via Arenula near the river) Rome

We visited London 7 years ago, and kept a little vacation journal including names and addresses of places we liked. After a major home renovation, and a trip to London coming up soon, we simply can't find this book. I remember a couple of pastry places stood out: Patisserie Valerie (which I realize is a chain), another place in Notting Hill, I believe, that was also French-leaning and had a great lemon tart, but there were two others, near Oxford Circus? Basically, any excellent pastries of any type, we'd like to find, so please recommend any. Second, we like to frequent wine bars with good selections, knowledgeable staff and good food. We lean toward French, Italian, Spanish and Portugese wines, but like any well-made quaff. I have zero recollection of ones we went to before. Any recs here? Thanks!

Alterra coffee is a consistently great coffee house with their own in-house baked items (www.alterracoffee.com), something Chicago can't seem to do. Either location are worth visiting, especially for breakfast. You'll be very close, as travelling around the greater Milwaukee area is so easy. I loved Lake Park Bistro's Sunday brunch, but haven't tried them for dinner. I didn't like Ristorante Bartolatta; simplified and Americanized "Italian" with a weak wine program. Actually, wine isn't that big there, for obvious beer-and-brats reasons. I heavily recommend Sanford's, though, and am certain it is non-smoking (there's no bar). Their sister resto, Coquette's, does have a bar with smoking (though I'd recommend it to others). I'd also like to recommend the Public Market, but there's just not much going on there so far; I hope they can get something going.

Good point. We'll be staying in the Soho area.

I have an unexpected visit to Manhatten this weekend and would love some wine bar recommendations. I'd prefer a place where the by-the-glass list is interesting, the servers/bartenders knowledgable and the food (even if just small plates) match the juice. Thanks!

I have an unexpected visit to Manhatten this weekend and would love some wine bar recommendations. I'd prefer a place where the by-the-glass list is interesting, the servers/bartenders knowledgable and the food (even if just small plates) match the juice. Thanks!

Poinsettias?! The Christmas plant? Or is that a name of some fizzy, wine-drenched dish?

Thanks. Do either of you have a preferred site for purchasing these types of older bottles?