Michael M

BKeith, nice cakes on your website. OK, thanks for the second; sounds like a good plan. Rogue bowl of ice cream, yea, right.

Chefette, thanks. That's the recipe I use, and I like your ideas, which I hadn't thought of. Actually, I can't find a recipe in my usual haunts.

When I caramelized the hazelnuts, they were suspended on toothpicks over a teflon cake pan and the caramel came off in these amber drops. I liked it so much I made more of them, let them dry, and used tweezers to place them on the cake. Pretty nifty effect for a serendipitous accident.

This weekend was my partner's birthday, along with a good friend of ours, so we celebrated by having people over for dinner. I used eGullet + my own recipes to construct a birthday cake: Wendy's Banana Cake (which I love and have made a few times), filled with chocolate brandied ganache and French caramel buttercream with brandy and pralines. All frosted with caramel buttercream. But therein lies my question. For the filling, I mixed pureed hazelnut praline into some of the buttercream, and that went between two of the layers. I know this creates a caramelized flavor, but for the actual buttercream base, I wanted smooth caramel, as in caramelized white sugar (not brown sugar). So I caramelized half of the recipe's sugar (from Recipe Gullet) dry, then attempted to dissolve that with the water from the recipe, using some heavy cream instead, brought it up to hard ball, etc. This turned out just fine, but it took about a zillion hours to get the hard caramel to dissolve. A google search turned up an Italian meringue version of this, but I wanted the richness of the yolks, and couldn't find another recipe for what I wanted. So how would you do this? I figure I need to caramelize the sugar with some water so it's less sticky, but then I would need another liquid (or some of the butter?) to dissolve it and bring it to hard ball. Any process ideas from the experts? Thanks. Here were the results:

Volpetti only has one location that I know of. They do, however, have another store just around the corner, Volpetti Piu, which is more of a tavola calda where you can buy sandwiches, etc. Maybe that's what you're remembering.

Thanks for the correction; I'm here to learn. Guess I have to go to Napoli now to discern the difference.

Our visit to Rome this time was brief, though memorable in that it was finally warm when we arrived. And the whole driving illegally issue (see above). So, only a few things to report: PIZZA Our favorite Neopolitan style pizza turned out to be just a few steps from our well-hidden hotel in Trastevere. Panificio Arnese makes breads and a few pastries... ...but what draws in the locals and students are its slabs of pizza in about 7 differents flavors. The crust has depth, flavor and chew, the mozzarella fresh. We indulged in buffalo mozz/artichoke, eggplant and arugla/sausage(the latter not in this pic), all fantastic. The thin/foldable pizza at Forno Campo dei Fiori was also tasty and worth the seconds we went back for. Here is our pizza being made: Then, where we waited for our order: GELATO San Crispino's crema-based flavors were dense, like American ice cream, but light in fat. Flavors were delicate (honey, cinnamon-ginger, armagnac). Fruit-based ones were better IMO (pear, wild orange). None were overly sweet but all smoothly textured. Gigliotti's were intensely colored, with some added colorings, but not overly neon. Good fruit ones as well (raspberry and strawberry), but so-so milk-based flavors. Gelateria Monteforte by the Pantheon, recommended in some books, was not worth it for the 3 times I've visited the past 2 years; threw them away. BREAKFAST/COFFEE I am in love with the mysteriously smooth espresso served at Sant' Eustachio (is it the ancient aquifer's water? a pinch of baking soda? they hide the process behind the espresso machine), though I don't like that they add the sugar for you. Am not impressed with their cappuccino, but it doesn't matter when their caffe is so good. Pain Quotidien is a Belgian chain with stores in Paris, Rome and New York (and perhaps other cities). I'm not sure why we went here this time, as we much prefer the Italian stand-up-and-eat-quick breakfast with the locals, but at least it provides a place to sit and read. They make great breads, and provide a nice selection of preserves and chocolate spreads. In fact, this and places like it in Paris were what started us on our regular at-home breakfasts of homemade sourdough, almond butter and homemade preserves. Pasticceria Linari is a place we happened onto last visit, but apparently gets good international press, unbeknownst to us at the time. They have great sfogliatelle, a cream-puff-like treat with the most fresh, vibrant whipped cream I have ever licked off a plate because it squirted out of the shell, crust flaking mercilessly right and left. Coffee was so so. A definite must for their pastries. WINE BAR Singular, because we kept returning to Il Gocetto. They had about 40 wines by the glass, and a nice selection of small eats (cheeses, salumi, etc.). Service was a little odd; I talked up the owner each time we were there, talking about wines, recommendations, etc., but it took the third visit until he warmed up to us. A small wine bar for the locals, focused on wine and not flash, with some great wines. RESTAURANT Dittirambo is the first restaurant a few years ago that I made a reservation at in Italian, so it holds good memories for me. It is a great value for the price, I think, and this time I took the camera. Appetizers were a fennel souffle and octopus with polenta: Pastas were a lasagna with a vegetable I think was broccolini, in a bechemal, and nettles ravioli with clams, both of our favorite: We've eaten there twice, and been pleased both times. Plates were in the 10-15E range. FOOD SHOPPING When I die I want heaven to look like Volpetti. It would be a small heaven, maybe 15' x 20', and I would be surrounded floor to ceiling with wines, cheeses, deli items, breads, pizza bianco, frittate, oils, vinegars. I would be offered tastes of everything as I walked through the space. I would leave clutching a bag filled with grilled artichokes, ricotta pies, pecorinos, roasted peppers. Then, considering it was heaven, I'd get to go back the next day, I suppose. Have breakfast at nearby Linari then start over again at Volpetti. We got to taste the cheese in this picture, but declined to purchase any considering the price. Yes, it was good. Well, finally that's it. Sorry it took so long to get it all posted. I hope this has been interesting and will prove valuable for future travelling. Please let me know! Volpetti Panificio Arnese Via del Politeana, 27 Trastevere ...also opens onto 15 Via Moro Pasticceria Linari Via Nicola Zabaglia, 9 Testaccio Enoteca Il Goccetto Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 14 Sant' Eustachio Piazza Sant' Eustachio, 82 Forno Campo de' Fiori Campo de' Fiori, 22 Pain Quotidien Via Tomacelli, 24/5 Ditirambo Piazza della Cancelleria, 74/5

← Michael, thanks! Why didn't I think of that?

I've gotten lots of views but not any responses lately. Is this going on too long? I'll just assume this will be helpful to someone at some time, and finish it out early if there isn't much interest. Dinner at Ristorante Poggio Antico We are not usually ones to go the Michelin-starred restaurants when it Italy, or even ones that are all that expensive. We lean toward the Slow-Food, meet-the-locals, trattoria/osteria-type dinners. But we splurged a little when we kept having this place recommended to us. We made a reservation when we took the tour (the ristorante is on the grounds of the winery, though are separate entities), and ended up having a very nice experience there. Service was excellent, views are amazing - the eatery is at the top of a hill, and the windows overlook the valley. But, the food is what we care about here. We each had the 58E tasting menu, though I switched out one of the items as you'll see. We were given an aperitivo of white wine with some scrumtious salumi selections... ...followed by four breads, all rich with olive oil, and salted, by the way. One was rosemary, one with cheese, and I've forgotten the others. Next was a take on beef carpaccio with arugula, Tartare di Chianina con Rucola e Reggiano. The beef came in a ground form, shaped in a timbale, topped with truffles, and olive oil. I expect I don't quite get raw beef's subtle pleasures, but it was enjoyable. Next, SO had Pate di Fegatini in Salsa di Moscadello, chicken liver in a moscadello sauce, which we both really enjoyed. I had a fennel quiche with taleggio sauce. This was nice, but obviously reheated (we were two of only 10 people there that evening), and by that time I wish I'd stuck to the tasting menu, relishing the liver in a way I didn't expect to. Little beet gnocchi in a salsa di brasato were next, and were delicious, subtley sweet and preciously pink. Next was ravioli with cianghiale ragu and chicken liver sauce with frizzled cabage. Yum. The pasta was firmer than the pastas we had in Bologna, but this dish was a personal favorite. Amusingly written as "Dave's Breast" on the menu in English, the breast of dove was next. This was served on a salad, and was just pleasant, a little tough, but I'm not well-schooled in this particular fowl. We each got a different dessert plate, including gelati (zabaione, mint, vanilla, coffee - some better than others), lemon and strawberry sorbet (excellent), two ricotta-based desserts (excellent) and small sfogliatelle. One bottle of their Rosso di Montalcino (28E, though on sale for less at their cantina), a glass each of the new-style Altero and a late harvest Moscadello (nice, but a bit flabby for my taste), 206E, gratuity included. Although we thoroughly enjoyed this, next time we're in the area, our personal taste runs to the less pricey joints, where a dish or two can be less-than-amazing, and we don't feel financially guilty. This was nice, and I'd certainly reccomend it, however, with monetary reservations. Poggio Antico Montalcino

The Province of Siena in Three Slighty Sweet, Edible Parts Or, what we did on the day we drove to Siena, besides looking at a really interesing museum of contemporary art, and trying to find the Enotecha Italiana, which wasn't at the address we had. Or, the three confections we scouted out while in the area of Siena. PART I: Panforte A traditional sweet served at Christmas that the Italians have, in all good sense, decided to make available year round, the "history" surrounding this confection paints this scene: on the night Christ was born, a child arrived bearing bread as a gift that, with the blessings of San Giusseppe, was transformed into panforte. Saintly blessings at the time, apparently, had the effect of adding nuts, honey and spices, along with candied fruits. If I were a full-fledged food geek, I would have photographed any of the dozen or so we ate, or even the four we brought home. If I were a better man, I would have remembered. Think a flat, round confection, similar to a Spanish almond/fig cake. Ingredients: flour, almonds, sugar and/or honey, various spices, candied citron, orange. Walnuts, maybe. Panpepato includes the spicy addition of black pepper and cinnamon. One version included marzipan. In Siena, our favorite panpepato was from La Nuova Pasticceria, topped with zingy cinnamon. They also made a slam-bang Torta di Nonna. Next in line were the panpepato and marzipan-topped versions at Antica Drogheria Manganelli, where you can also buy chocolates, dried pastas, olive oils. Both places made great Riciarelli (part II). We also enjoyed our third-place contender, Panificio Lombardi in Montalcino. PART II: Ricciarelli There are two schools of thought among Riciarelli bakers, I noticed after googling recipes for this almond macaroon recently. One has you piping them out, then drying overnight (a la French macaroons), one doesn't. Maybe one school of thought also includes things like expediency and laziness, I don't really know since the closest I've gotten to making these is reading the recipes and copying them into a Proto-Riciarelli-Recipe file. This was a year ago. I have eaten them, however. Ingredients include ground almonds and/or almond paste, flour, egg whites, sugar. Optionals include candied orange peel, flavorings. I have had the chewy-on-the-outside-a-la-Francaise style only at Fr. Atti in Bologna (see above) (perhaps left overnight to dry?). All the ones in the Siena province below were much softer in texture. Le Dolcezze di Nanni in Buonconvento had four types including limone (good), caffe (good), sfuzi (infused with...something orange or citrusy - very good) and plain (a bit drab). This is a tiny city that you'll pass through on the road between Montalcino and Siena. Antica Drogheria Manganelli had my very favorite - extra soft and infused with something that reminded me of flowers - orange flower water? Very delicate and almondy and emminently snackable. Anyone know what this flavoring might have been? La Nuova Pasticceria had delightful ones as well, rich with almond flavor. PART III: Cavallucci The confection that separates those who ate the black jelly beans and those who left them in the candy dish/Easter basket, these spiced anise cookies were supposedly made to be given to the servants in the stables (cavallucci = little horses). Ingredients include flour, honey, anise, sometimes ginger and black pepper, candied fruit. They are often taken with vin santo. The ones we had were dry on the outside, chewy on the inside. We loved these, which we had only at Pasticceria Nannini, a large place in Siena (I think the oldest in the town) that has pastries, cookies, chocolates and a separate area for seating with a light lunch menu. EXTRA PART: Castagnaccio is a pizza made with chestnut flour, studded with raisins, pine nuts and spiced with rosemary. This was interesting and tasty. I save receipts when it Italy because someone presciently required all Italian receipts to have addresses and phone numbers of the businesses who provided them, great for this reason. Unfortunately, the place we got this from ripped their reciept, so we only have part of their name, "Pizza..." and their address (I'll call it Pizza X). Pasticceria Nannini Via dei Banchi di Sopra, 24 Siena Antica Drogheria Manganelli Via di Citta, 71/3 Siena Pizza X Via Pelligrini, 17 Siena La Nuova Pasticceria Le Dolcesse di Nanni Via Roma, 36 Buonconvento Panificio Lombardi Via San Saloni Montalcino

I neglected to add a link to my post in December 2004 about Bologna. There is further information there that I didn't include on this one. Enjoy!

The smell of wood smoke was a ubiquitous, 24-hour presence, mixing with the smells of pecorino and salumi, getting into your clothes, like the whole Brunello D.O.C. was hosting a massive, region-wide barbeque. This turned out to be from the many small fires people would set to burn the olive branches they had just trimmed. It actually was very pleasant, since that particular smell does go with the region's wine and food quite nicely. It didn't seem to bother the locals in the (mostly stationery) 1/2-kilometer line of cars from visiting Montalcino on the day we arrived. If I remember correctly, there are three roads that snake up to this hillside town. Being a national holiday, the day after Easter brought apparently every Tuscan-on-holiday to the road we were on, and probably some Umbrians, too. And also one German couple on vacation who luckily spoke English so that my S.O. could apologize to them after confusing first gear (upper-left) with reverse (push-down-upper-left) and tapped into their car while parallel parking in a move that wouldn't phase anyone from Chicago (where we're from), but visibly irritated Mr. German, who scowled Teutonically at him while Mrs. German noticed there was no damage and accepted S.O.'s profuse apologies. We avoided the 1/2-km line of cars by parking and preceding into town on foot since you couldn't drive into it this time of the day anyway. And in another stroke of luck, located our hotel within 30 seconds of entering the city. And so began the second stage of our holiday: Tuscany. We were here to eat, to taste and purchase Brunello, and to hike. The constant afternoon rains curtailed each one of our attempts at the latter, unfortunately. But you can't career your car along any road leading out of Montalcino, simultaneously trying to enjoy the view and keep ahead of the line of local drivers behind you 5 k.p.h short of nudging your car off the road so that they can pass, without noticing that each tiny road that forks off is labelled with 10 or 12 signs indicating the wineries down that lane. And you'll pass a dozen of those signs within two or three curves of the road. Really, I'm surprised they managed a road at all, or even houses, when it seems that every square centimeter of rocky, clay soil was stuffed with either 1) a grape vine 2) an olive tree 3) an artichoke or 4) a rosemary hedge, mostly the former. Oh, right, or a cypress, just for that postcard-perfect effect. The Consorzi di Brunello di Montalcino lists 183 producers, all within what seems like a 15-minute drive from the town. It would be an impossible, Herculaean effort to sample every Brunello made. Though we tried. First, I highly recommend Montalcino as stepping stone to Tuscan wine country. A very small hillside town, way quaint, nice people. Here it is, viewed from a nearby winery: We started our quest at Enoteca Osticcio, where we found ourselves returning each day because of the helpful spirit and knowledge of the owners, Tullio and Francesca Scrivani. We explained that we were there to visit wineries, and could they set us up with some tastes of smaller producers. We got a sample of 5, along with a personal run-down of each producer, and something to go with: We fell in love with two of the producers' wines, which we later visited (Canalicchio di Sopra, slightly modern style and Siro Parente, a much more modern, fruity slurp). One day we tried the Enoteca's local olive oil tasting, which was interesting. They serve light food, including some excellent salumi and the usual cheese plate laden with way too much pecorino. Not that I compained. Within those four days, we toured Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona (highly recommended), Poggio Antico (same). We tasted a a few other places, including Fattoria dei Barbi, which also has a caseficio on the property. Here are their wares: They shrink-wrapped a large hunk of pecorino ubriaco (drunken, not from sampling too much Brunello as we tended to be, but from being bathed in it while aging, which sounds kind of nice now that I think about it), as well as a seasoned pecorino for us to take home. We ate dinner at their restaurant, Taverna dei Barbi, where we received excellent service, and this meal: Crostini with tomato/olive oil and one with cauliflower A superb white bean soup in a porky/tomatoey broth thick enough to be a sauce they forgot to add pasta to. Pici with wild boar ragu, which was a delight Braised pork and chicken; the pork was as tender as a ripe pear, and so bacony as to be classifiable as a red meat. A drab lemon cake in a nice pool of ricotta cream, and nice grappa, though I'm not a fan of grappa; I just mean it didn't burn quite so much going down. ...all this for 30E/person plus a 10E bottle of their Rosso di Montalcino. They also have a fireplace big enough to land a jet in, so I imagine it would be quite cozy during the winter. The town itself has two gelaterie neither of which I particularly recommend. It has one pasticceria, Mariuccia Paticerria, which has delicious, soft riciarelli and bigne, a pastry shell filled with the most delicious pastry cream. Across the street is "the oldest wine bar in Italy," Cafe Fiaschetteria Italiana, who make excellent capuccini, and had Mariuccia pastries offered as well in the a.m. We also liked the modern-decor Caffe alle Logge di Piazza, who also served a superior morning cuppa. This is right across the street from C. Fiaschetteria. Next: Siena (cavallucci, ricciarelli, castagnaccio) and dinner at Poggio Antico. Caffe alle Logge di Piazza Via Matteorri, 1 Cafe Fiaschetteria Italiana Piazzo del Popula, 5/6 Mariuccia Pasticeria Piazza del Populo, 29 Consorzi del Vino Brunello di Montalcino Fattoria dei Barbi Enoteca Osticcio Via Matteotti, 23 Azienda Agricola Canalicchio di Sopra

How many ways are to permanently end a marriage? I would suggest that one would be to attempt to drive together in Rome. To make sure you're at each others' throats, make sure you're map isn't accurate (easy; all Italian maps are inaccurate), and plan on driving into the most congested-ancient-twisted-alley area of Rome (Trastevere) to find your hotel. Also, plan on driving, illegally albeit accidentally, onto a pedestrian-only piazza, while the hotel clerk on the phone is giving you the wrong directions ("Are there any police nearby?" she asked at one point, asking us to go the wrong way down a one-way street). Also, plan on taking roads on the map that aren't there, or that on the map look like they connect when they're really 50' above your current street. Really, all of these would work, I think, as long as you kept it up for, say, 90 minutes or so. At that point you'd be ready just to leave the car in the street and hope Avis had a come-and-get-it policy for their cars. (They don't; we checked). Driving in Tuscany: minor inconveniences here and there, but it's a farming area, and the experience was a breeze. Driving in Rome just to drop off your stuff at the hotel then drop off the car: do not attempt this, ever. We certainly won't. Oh, did I remember the part where, once we finally got the car to Avis, SO forgot the contract back at the hotel? Luckily, this was a minor part of the trip, really. The days before a typical vacation of ours usually goes like this: 1) Pull together all pertinent saved articles on food pilgrimages from newspapers, food magazines, etc. 2) Copy sections of food books you want so you don't have to take the whole book (Italy for the Gourmet Traveller, et al.) 3) Copy and paste the myriad posts on cities from various web sources (eGullet among them, of course) onto one file; shrink font very, very small; print 4) Google maps to all really important places, mark them on a master map, using "G" for gelato, "P" for pasticerria, "T" for trattoria (or any restaurant), "W" for wine...bar or enoteca 5) Board plane; go over previous; check watch Sound familiar? This year we found oddly cheap tickets going into Bologna and out of Rome, from which we created this itinerary: Part I: Three days in Bologna, a city I know well; a place to visit old favorites, reset inner clock Part II: Rent car, drive to Montalcino and stay for four days; visit wineries in the Brunello d.o.c. Part III: Drive to Rome, return car (!); two days there. We've been to Bologna and Rome before, but this time, we had a digital camera. So, let's start this tale of our little food adventure; I hope you enjoy it and can put it to some future use. Bologna: We arrive at the conveniently small Bologna airport, hop on the bus. Ten minutes later, we are in town, and I stop the bus at Bar Pasticeria Gamberini. With suitcases still in hand, we have a cappuccino, and a brioche. I highly recommend their pastries. This has been one of my regular places for sfogliatelle, good brioche in the morning, great service, and tasty coffee. And here's part of an all-chocolate display they had up for Easter: After checking in, we stroll over to Caffe Oreficio. This is a great place for sitting and planning your next move. They've renovated an old building in a contemporary style: coffee beans sold on the lower level, which opens to the bar on the second level, which opens to the seating area above that. Their pastries and sandwiches are not worth it, but their cappuccini are above average, milkier than others, and always cute: This is in the quadrilatero, an area of narrow, winding roads housing one of the city's best markets, a variety of good bars, my favorite bakery and a food store to die for. Across the street is Bar Roberto, who hales from Sicily, and his best pastries are Sicilian - sfogliatelle and the like. They also serve the best cappucino that I've had in the city. If they have time, they will also decorate your cappucino. Around the corner is Pasticerria Atti, who make pasta and pastries. I can't stop eating their riciarelli (Sienese almond macaroons), the savory pies (pastry encasing spinach, artichokes, pecorino, egg) and their sweet ravioli cookies. They also make a kick-ass panetone during the holidays, and sell it by the slice. They also make bread (including a greaty rye bread with anise and caraway) and the ubiquitous pasta, summer-sunshine-yellow from the local egg yolks. Now, this is all within the first hour or so. Instead of the hourly report, let me break down my opinions of Bologna for you this way: Coffee If you're a coffee freak like me, you'll start the day with a cappucino and pastry in as many places as you can stand, then un caffe (espresso) in the early afternoon. The best espresso I had was at a place whose name I can't exactly remember, I think Bar Cinquecento, and it was in the University quarter. Best cappucini, Bar Roberto, Cafe Paris and Bar Gamberini. Gelato The most touted is from Sorbetteria Castiglione. Here's their menu: Theirs is one of the higher butterfat content (for a gelato) and very intense in the flavorings they use. Superb without being too cloyingly sweet. Ugo Gelato is a smaller place, maybe 10-12 flavors, all very good as well, especially their fruit gelati. Finally, Le Vele Gelateria, apparently unsung in the usual books and magazines, makes some excellent flavors. Their fruit-only ones don't shine so much as their milk-based mixtures, which use liquers for flavors. I love their Notturno Indiana - dark, mahogony-colored chocolate with brandy. Once I ate a serving while walking away, and had to turn back to order another. Wine Bars Their are two that I love. The Godot Wine Store has great people working there, all very knowledgeable, and about 15 wines by the glass each day, with a light menu to accompany. One of our dinners was a (retail price) bottle of wine, their salumi and cheese platter, and a leafy, radicchio-filled salad. Good soups, too. Highly, highly recommended from three different trips there. They have quite a cellar, as well. Down the street is a wine bar with their name that we just discovered - I'd recommend this, too, without having been there. The other one I love is Cacao. This is a modern space run by two guys. The focus here is less on the wine and more on the vibe as a local hangout, but they serve about 8 wines by the glass, including some excellent small producers. I recommend their amazing cheese plate with mostarda, which, for 10E, will provide enough superior pecorinos for about 4-6 people. There's something about cheese plates in Italy - there's always a much larger amount of it than we expected for the price. Oh darn. This past winter they had a small producer's Primitivo that I drooled over, returning every day to have a glass. I couldn't find it anywhere (as the proprietor apologetically told me), and it's become one of those quests - I must find it again. Fun place, nice vibe, contemporary setting. Pastries Atti is the tops for me. My favorite brioche are the fresh, buttery one in the morning at Gamberini. Bar Roberto and Gamberini for sfogliatelle. There are others, but I keep coming back to these. Trattoria We are not ones to go to many high-end restaurants. One well-known one we I like a lot is Trattoria Anna Maria. Bolognese food in a warm setting, full of locals, the buzz of Italian, and good prices. First was tagliatelle with ragu and Torteloi with butter and sage. It's hard to beat their silky soft pasta creations; their flour is a lower protein farina, and it must be made with the utmos delicacy. Next was tortellini in brodo, the prototypical Bolognese dish, and cardoon with sausage, a dish I just love. Dessert was uninspired, an unimpressive lemon cake but a decent lemon gelato. A dinner like this, with a quartino of house wine (usually sangiovese di Romagna) will set you back maybe 70E. Our other dinner was at Ristorante Therese (not Theresina next door), which was fine, but not a place I'd return to with so many other choices. There are other places I've been to at other times and would recommend, but that was our visit. Next installment, Tuscany. Caffe Orefici Via Orefici, 6 Paolo Atti e Figli Via Drapperie, 6 Le Vele Gelateria Via Saragozza, 65E Sorbetteria Castiglione Via Castiglione, 44 Cacoa (Wine Bar) Via Altabella, 14A Trattoria Anna Maria Via Belle Arti, 17A closed Monday, Wed. lunch Pasticceria Gamberini Via Ugo Bassi, 12 Bar Roberto Via Orefici, 9A Ugo Gelato Via San Felice, 24 Godot Wine Store Via Santo Stefano, 12 Godot Wine Bar Via Cartoleria, 12 Bar Gamberini Via Ugo Bassi, 12D

I was there this summer (report here), and still think it's the best in the city, from what I've tried, in terms of food and service (not ambiance, due to the old-fashioned, 70's decor). I would definitely go again.

Kevin, Yes, I had a number of piadini, but the only ones I really enjoyed were the ones at Tamburini. This was not an exhaustive survey, though. Where did you go for your sampler? I will be returning in March.

I also have had two great experiences there, and reported on the most recent one on this board. I found the pace of the service very relaxed (as opposed to the frenetic activity at mk), and the food great. The server recommended an unusual wine I didn't know, and I still have the label they saved for me. Really one of the true gems of the city.

Fifi, African blue basil is georgous, and you're right, it is Ocimum kilimandscharicum x basilicum purpureum, whereas sweet basil is Ocimum basilicum (and there are others, of course). I, too, let mine flower, but only some of my plants, and just for the reasons you mention. For the absolute tenderest and sweetest leaves, though (meaning the pesto I make for guests!) I only use young, new leaves. Experiment with the difference this season and let me know what you think!

Most thymes are hardy to zone 5 or 6, and in Texas you are more like 7, 8 and 9, so no worry there. Basil - well, I live in Chicago, and I can't really help you there. I know that they are perennial in Italy, but cooks keep cutting them back to get the newest, most tender leaves. With basil, you don't want them to flower, otherwise they get bitter. If they make it through your winter, cut them back. Oregano, again, you will have no problem. But a warning: oregano is in the mint family, and it spreads like wildfire. I would keep this one in a pot. Really, it will go everywhere.

Ore, I stayed at two inexpensive hotels, Hotel Paradise and Hotel Due Torri, which I reviewed here. Both were 50-60 E per night, though these prices might be higher later in the year. I would return to Hotel Paradise happily, and I know they had a smaller room for less. Also, book with them directly instead of through Orbitz - it's how I got a lower price.

I recently returned from a trip to Bologna in order to take a week-long language course, though I was also there to eat well. This site is one place I've culled information from, so I'm giving back my culinary reviews. This trip was December, 2004, my second trip there. First, some generalizations. For Italians in general, food is still more of an important part of the culture than in the U.S. That being said, it is still possible to get mediocre food there. And though on this trip it seemed that even the most casual bar served an excellent wine as their every day choice, not every bar had good sandwiches (quality of prosciutto, etc.), not every pastry was heavenly, and not every gelato worthy of mention. Also, the breads just aren't anything to get excited about in Bologna in terms of pure grain excitement - the kind that comes from a good sourdough loaf, pizza crust, freshly ground corn tortilla, etc. Their starchy forte is their egg pasta, where they truly excel. A two-block stroll in any direction will take you past some pasticerria's store window stacked with trays of filled pastas whose dough is the golden color of (dare I mix geographic metaphors here?) a late summer Tuscan sun. For this trip, I only ate dinner at one trattoria because of my classes, which was Trattoria Anna Maria (via Belle Arti, 17A), which recently got a mention in a Bon Appetit spread. It's a warmly lit and inviting space, pleasant servers, superior tortellini in brodo. I also had a dish with cardoons and sausage that was also outstanding. Their house wine was a Sangiovese di Romagna, fruity and straightforward. A quartino of that (which came with a dish of mortadella cubes and some parmaggiano) plus these two dishes ran 27 E. The remainder of my eating was done more casually, so let me arrange the reviews by type. Hope this helps someone else enjoy this wonderful city. A note that, as per tradition, many stores are closed from about 1:00-3:00 in the afternoon. PASTICCERIE One of the consistent superior pastry makers there is Paolo Atti e Figli (via Drapperie, 6), of which there are two stores, around the corner from each other. Items I kept coming back to included their delightfully moist Panetone a Milano, filled with candied fruit and made with a natural leavener (like a sourdough). This made for an incredibly moist crumb with a complex flavor which, luckily for me, they sold by the slice during the holiday season. They make amazing riciarelli, an almond macaroon from Sienna that so far are the best I've had. Also an individually sized torta filled with prosciutto, artichoke, cheese and egg that was my lunch many days. I also like that at the end of the day, they run out of certain things, so that I know they're fresh the next day. GELATO Two of the city's touted gelaterie were closed for the season (Ugo Gelato and Gelato Stefino), but if you're there in April or thereafter, try them out (Ugo is on via Ugo Bassi, the other on via Galliera). However: Sorbetteria Castiglione, via Castiglione, 44, remains one of my favorites for their milk-based gelati, which seem a little richer than the usual Italian-style. Flavor hits include almond with almond macaroon, almond with caramelized pine nuts and hazelnut. Le Vele Gelateria, via Saragozza 63/E. I've never seen this mentioned anywhere, but it should be. They make Sicilian-style granitas, as well as some incredible milk gelati (didn't like their fruit ones as much - not as intense). They have one called "Indian [something]" the color of darkest mahogany, that is made with chocolate and brandy; this is a personal favorite. Their Fior di Panna is also excellent. Il Gelatauro, via San Vitale 82. Wonderful fruit gelati, very nice milk ones. I liked their cinnamon and squash, ginger, persimmon, and especially fennel seed. Though I just ran into it by chance, after arriving back home, I saw this glowing review from Faith Willinger (http://www.faithwillinger.com/travel_dett.asp?id_travel=115). They advertised that they made panettone without preservatives, though I didn't have any. BAR-PASTICCERIE and BARS So, a place to go have breakfast Italian style, with a pastry and caffe or cappucino (cappuco in the local dialect). Also a place for your mid-morning caffe, your mid-afternoon sandwich and caffe, etc. Since the term "bar" connotes something different than, say, an American Hooters, let's imagine a spectrum of What An Italian Bar Can Be: on one end is a small place that does not make their own food, perhaps bakes pastries from frozen doughs, and puts together some sandwiches. They serve coffee, wine, amari, spremuta (fresh squeezed fruit juices). Even though the food might not be spectacular, their coffee can be. On the other end is a place which makes their own pastries from scratch, and probably also biscotti, candies, maybe pastas. Their bar serves the same things (coffee, etc.), but they have no savory items (sandwiches). In between are the hybrids. Bar Pasticceria Progetto/Gamberino, via Ugo Bassi, 12. Another example of a place that on its receipt says something different than the sign outside. Great, friendly staff, good coffee, excellent pastries. Some highlights include their light, buttery brioche with orange-scented cream, a pastry shaped like a rough ball and filled with either giandjuia or zabaione (I gorged on the former; just look for the golf-to-tennis-ball-sized balls coated in cocoa), sfogliatelle filled with ricotta (they had my favorite in the city). On one morning I did get a not-as-fresh brioche, but the other days I did. Also, a very good cappucino can be found here. Caffe delle Drapperie, via Drapperie, 12. After many dull sandwiches I had as snacks (tasteless bread, mediocre prosciutto), they had the first sandwich I really enjoyed, though it was easily topped the next day and thereafter by the ones at Dei Commercianti below. At the "just a bar" end of the spectrum. Pasticceria Bar Soverini (via Oberdan, 13) was recommended by Fred Plotkin in his book, and after 3 tries I couldn't muster enthusiasm for anything there except these sandwich cookies filled with giandjuia. The one filled with zabaione, the biscotti and the various brioches all forgettable. Coffee not that impressive, either. Bar Dei Commercianti, Strada Maggiore,23/C (whose reciept says Caffe Mokarabia, the name of the coffee brand they use, very confusing). A very nice all-around bar with tables for light lunches or dinners. They also set up a nice spread of free snacks during "happy hour." This place had the nicest panini in Bologna (of the ones I tried), as well as a delicious torta with artichokes (like a quiche). The house wines were always excellent, and the staff there, composed of the owner and a number of college students, were all extremely friendly. They even remembered which wines I liked and started bringing them without my asking. A great place to relax and have a light bite. Bar Roberto, via Orefici, 9A. Nice coffee, friendly service, I was not impressed with some of the pastries. I did, however, like his sfogliatella with ricotta and the cappucino. I was not able to try enough of the selection here, though, and I would definitely return and try more based on the level of service and that sfogliatella. Caffe degli Orefici, via Orefici, 6F. Though this bar doesn't specialize in making their own pastries (though they do have these and sandwiches), the real draw for me is the area with tables on the redesigned second floor that seems to float above the attached coffee bean store and has a wonderful view of the street. WINE BARS Enotecha Italiana (via Marsala, 2) is more like a wine store with a bar, no seats. A large assortment of wines and spirits, 20 or so available by the glass along with snacks, lots of interesting though expensive food gifts (chocolate bars, marmallata, etc.), the staff of older men there were helpful though disengaged enough to discourage too many visits. The Godot Wine store (hard to find, had to keep looking for it, ha ha) is a casual bar with an enoteca in the basement. They serve about 10 wines by the glass, explained in detail on a blackboard each day, along with 5 or 6 light dishes (sliced meats, a soup, a salad, etc.). Very knowledgable and friendly staff. It's actually not hard to find at all, at via Cartoleria, 12. A stylish modern wine bar that wouldn't be out of place in New York or London, I loved Bar di Geremia e Marchetti, via Altabella, 14A. They serve about 10 wines by the glass, and 3 plates of snacks. One day I ordered the cheese plate with mostarda, and for 8 E got a huge assortment of uniformly amazing cheeses and mostarde, too much for one person. Later I realized that even if I didn't order food, you got a small place of something with your wine - olives, prosciutto, bread, chips - it changed each day. A great, friendly staff who remembered my preferences, they had my favorite wines of the trip. FOOD RETAIL Majani (chocolatier, via Carbonesi, 5) was a fun visit, and their product is good. These are not the most modern-styled candies, nor the best I've had in Italy, but worth a visit. For high quality olive oils and conversation about the state of wine and olive oil production in Italy, visit the Elaioteca at via de'Giudei, 3D. Tamburini, via Caprarie, 1. A food-lovers paradise, always crowded, on the pricey side, but worth the visit. Meats, cheeses, the best breads I've had in Bologna, prepared foods. If you feel like snaking your way through the long line, you can eat in their cafeteria-style as well. There are two markets that I'm familiar with (though there are others). They are open early in the morning, then close around 12:30, opening again from 3:00 or so to 6:00 or so. Mercato Ugo Bassi (or dell'Erbe), via Ugo Bassi, 2. This inside market is what my heaven will look like. Produce, cheese, meats, seafood in every nook and cranny. The other market, the Mercato Quadrilatero, runs up and down different streets (vie Clavature, Drapperie and Caprarie), all within a very small area that used to be where the city's craftsmen plied their trades, on delightfully crooked and narrow old streets. Luckily, this is also where many of these food destinations are as well (Bar Roberto, Caffe degli Orefici, Atti, Tamburini).

Where is Sophia's Bakery and Cafe?

I was there as well, and it was quite crowded, I was happy to see. I also wondered about the feline aromas, but was shocked that it was not noticeable. The doors were open, which I'm sure helped. I suppose I shouldn't give away my parking secrets, but there's often parking north of Fullerton on...not sure of the name, but the street that runs in front of the nature museum. I almost always find parking there.

I'm bumping this up a bit because I'm curious as well.

Thanks for all the information, and a special thanks, Brad, for the very informative link.

I've always wondered about this, but don't know enough about winemaking to know whether, perhaps, it is actually done elsewhere. I'm referring the the process of making Amarone, a red, in the cooler region of the Veneto. Grapes are slightly dried, concentrating them in a way the shorter growing season won't. (Well, not exactly the same, but you know what I mean.) I know that this must is used in Valpolicalla in the ripasso process, and I've read that some are trying this in the Friuli region (with refosco or pignolo). But is there any advantage to trying this elsewhere, with other reds? Not dessert wines, but as a vinifying process to alter the final product? What would happen if someone did this in a longer growing season with fully ripe grapes...or do they?