johnnyd

1st Course - pregarnish Venison Carpaccio w/Matsutake Sausage prep earlier that afternoon: The proud sausage maker, ErikD Served with Cortland apples and Start Anise:

More pictures of Deer Deathmatch 2007 have surfaced so here are a selection of courses I missed, plus some other choice photographs. Many thanks to Katie Selva who provided them for the next four posts As mentioned, preparation for this event was extensive - right down to the beercan color co-ordination. The winelist: 2004 Cristom Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Marjorie Vineyard (1.5L) 1993 Castello Di Farnatella Vino da Tavola di Toscana "Poggio Granoni" (1.5L) 1997 Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee (1.5L) 2000 Nicolis Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso "Seccal" (3L) 2002 Arbios Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley (3L) 2004 Tramonti Chianti Classico (3L) 2003 Valderiz Ribero del Duero (1.5L) 1999 Scaglioa Barbera d'Asti Superiore "Sansi" (1.5L) 1986 Chateau La Lagune Haut Medoc (750ml) Beers Assorted Trappist Full Line of Allagash (Donated by Brewery) Miller High Life "Orange Hunter Cans" Cider Doc's Draft Apple and Pear (New York) Booze Fernet Branca Aarlborg Aquavit

The Portland Food Map's latest evolution is a growing compendium of geographic locator maps per culinary category, using google mapping. Check out the Coffee Map. Note the left side where there is a list of other categories that are/will become live when mapping is completed: American Restaurants African Restaurants Bakeries Bars and Clubs Barbeque Restaurants Breweries Burrito Shops Butchers Candy Shops Chinese Restaurants Cocktails and Wine Bars Coffee Houses Delicatessens Diners & Sandwich Shops Ethnic Markets Fish Mongers French Restaurants Fusion/Eclectic Restaurants Gay Bars and Clubs Gelato Shops Greek Restaurants Halal Markets Ice Cream Shops Indian Restaurants Italian Restaurants Juice Bars Latin American Restaurants Pizzerias Polish Restaurants Pool Bars Prepared Food Pubs Organic/Vegetarian Restaurants Seafood Restaurants Specialty Stores Sports Bars Supermarkets Sushi/Japanese Restaurants Tapas Restaurants Tea Shops Thai Restaurants Variety Stores Vietnamese Restaurants Wine & Beer Stores Wings Hats off to this innovative endeavor!

Gaucho's Brazilian Restaurant will be the new tenant at 100 Commercial St, site of Oolong and Portland Steak House. Projected opening is November '07. I couldn't be more thrilled at this news. The only time I get close to the Churrascaria experience since Brasil is in Ironbound, NJ. In a few short weeks it will be just a quick boat-ride across the Fore river. Expect a comprehensive review when it opens.

The Preparation for the feast was attended by the chefs... Joe and a bunch of us planned the Venison party about a month ago.. We had a connection with a certain restaurant in town to procure 2 farm raised does. Three days before we were to host 60+ people with a feast of venison, we were supposed to pick them up. We arrived, cash in hand, and were told, “Yeah, sorry. No deer.” A minimal explanation was given, but what did they care? Immediately, the three of us went out to see J at 158 to have a “What the fuck are we going to do” pow-wow. J, J, C and I were on our cell phones to ANYONE who may know 2 deer personally, and C made the connection. A deer farm in Shapleigh. We arrived after a few navigational problems, and Edgar proceeded to show us his Bio-Diesel rig he uses to transform cooking oil to fuel, for his autos, tractors, and heating. We walked past the pen of deer, who stared at us with apprehension, and soon went about their routine. Edgar brought us into a 30′X30′ barn, quadroned off with various sliding doors, pens and a scale with a drop-floor. 2 of his prized East German Red deer were in separate pens, calmly gazing at us, and greeting us…timidly, but still interested. We weighed them, with C at the helm………they are a hell of a lot bigger than white tails….one at 240, one at 280-ish. Eva went down with a stun, and Josh cut her throat. Edgar dragged her out to the other barn with a tractor, and i opened my little Opinel blade to skin her. Josh and i worked her coat off with ease. In order to avoid any expulsion of waste, we cut around the bung, and tied it wth twine. The innards came out in one large lump, into two 5 gallon buckets. Thank god for twine…. In to the back of the iced up Chevy pick-up, with the kidneys, heart and liver in a bag. Hose off the tarp, and on to Ilsa. There was a slight drizzle, and the chill in the air reminded me of mid-November. “Erik, are you ready?” The cue from Edgar rejuvinated me. Josh handed me his Buck knife. “It’s from my Grandfather….make sure you cut deep, dude….” With that being said, I took the knife in my right hand, the leather sheath in the left…….Joe took the wooden plywood shield to block any kicking….(these does loved to kick….) After Ilsa was stunned, I went in with the blade…..one deep stab along with a slice across the neck, and her eyes glazed over, with seconds of life still in her. As the newly opened jugular allowed the blood to flow, her flailing slowed, and soon, nothing but nerves caused movement. Edgar hooked her up to the tractor, and dragged her out to the other barn to be regarded and cleaned. This time, I was in charge of the gutting. With a puff of steam from her jugular vein, life left Ilsa…..her snout in my left hand, and Josh’s grandfather’s Buck Knife in my right. Gazing down into her huge black eyes, I knew when life left her, in a 3 foot circle of deep amber blood puddling around my boots, the steam and metallic odor engulfing my olfactory. I wiped the Buck Knife on my pants, took a look at her on the floor of the barn, and really needed a cigarette. I gave Josh his heirloom knife, and we nodded at each other silently as the warm slurry of Ilsa ran around our boots and filled the air with the pungent odor of….well, not of death….but the circle of life, and the fact that there is an actual food chain. Taking an animal’s life digs deep into your ego….a sense of empowerment mixed with a flurry of emotions not known to anyone who hasn’t done it. Published here with permission from eG member Erikd

I harvested about 40 pounds of these concord grapes this week. These were cleaned, de-lumbered, de-raisened, crushed and simmered (after bringing to boil first) until the eyeball like centers dissolved, then strained, combined with sugar at 1:1 and simmered again for about 15 minutes. Poured into sterile jars and capped. 6 cups juice out of about ten lbs grapes on the vine. Man, it's delicious!

8th Course Saddle - Erik Grilled French Rack - Bacon Wrapped Loin - Fresh Herbs - Paul's "Robuchon Style Potatoes This was truly amazing. I wish you all could reach into the screen and take a piece...

6th Course Braised Skirt Risotto Cakes - Kate Cider Reduction - Pomegranate Bacon Relish This went fast. I never tried it as I was still in a Burger-Foie coma. Hunter's Stew - Nolan Duck Confit - Pork Jowl - Root Vegetables - Juniper Horseradish Creme Fraiche Outstanding stew - even if I thought the root veg was a little too al dente for me. The pot of this is in another pic up-topic. 7th Course Jagermeister Marinated Livers - Piepers Slow Poached Monkfish Liver Saucisson - Shallot Plum Black Truffle Sauce - Leg Meat Stuffed Summer Squash Prior to plating: Another item that disappeared before a sample - bummer. Deer Heart Reuben - Josh House 1000 Island Dressing - Sauerkraut - Gruyere - Pumpernickel Never saw this - I might have been outside with the increasingly bouyant crowd. By now I am getting pretty full and pretty tipsy, but the best is yet to come.

5th Course As American As Apple Pie - Colin & Bronwen Aged Chedder - Caramelized Onions - Sweet 16 Apples This was unbelievably good. The meat appeared to be stewed and broken down as if pulled. The flavor combination was top notch. I had a lot of this. Note the wine collection rear-right. The host is in the business so there was some excellent pairings going on. Fortunately there was a bottle of Fernat Branca without which, I would not have made it as far as I did. Smoked Ribs - Josh Juniper Dry Rub - Elderberry Syrup The grape glaze was used here instead of elderberry, I think. Lots of black pepper made this a really great flavor profile.

Joe prepares to plate 3rd Course, "All F*ckin' Day Simmered Bolognese" (note: The names of the contestants are limited to first names only) 1st Course Carpaccio - Steve Matsutake Mushrooms - Aged Balsamic Vinegar A great opener - smooth as silk and the matsi came through unscathed. I got the last one. Sausages - Erik Cortland Apples - Star Anise All gone before I arrived, a good sign 2nd Course Frito Pie - A Southern Trailer Park Classic - Stephanie Chipotle - Golden Crisps of Corn - Lime Crema Croquettes - Courtney Braised Cabbage - Caraway - Country Mustard 3rd Course All F*ckin' Day Simmered Bolognese - Joe San Marzano Tomatoes - Reggiano Parmesan - Tagliatelle Pasta I liked this. Joe thought it was too dry - deermeat is too lean for this model so we agreed a slab of pork belly should go in next time. Borscht a.k.a. The East End "Beet" Down Beets - Celaraic - Carrots Most outrageous Borscht I'd ever had 4th Course Terrine of Head & Shanks - Erik & Krista Dates - Tuscan 'Rish Kale - Brown Bread DDM Burger - Jon Foie Gras - Truffle Essence - Tomato Confit - Caramelized Shallots - Horseradish Mayo Outstanding burgers! The Foie was a first for me and melded with the deermeat really well. The industrial grinder was impressive too.

These concord grapes were harvested from a beach-side arbor owned by a friend of mine. They were cleaned, de-lumbered and simmered down to a glaze for the ribs. A lot of the guests came dressed in camouflage and bright orange hunter's bibs and hats. To add to the fun, the host rented a "Big Buck Hunter" video game. Grilling deermeat & foiegras burgers for 4th course outside... The fact that restaurant workers here have such comaradie and would go to such lengths to spend their off-shift time cooking show undeniable commitment to the craft. It was a magical night.

Here in the northeastern USA, autumn is deer hunting time, so when a group of talented restaurant professionals gathered here in Portland Maine on Sunday, October 14th 2007 for a cook-off - or "Deathmatch" - deer was the obvious choice. The players that night are hard-working local chef/owners of some of the exciting, new restaurants that are opening up at a brisk pace here in Portland: Bresca, One Fifty Ate, Bandol (now Evangeline) were the principle architects of the "Deathmatch" series, along with friends from other BOH venues, chefs de cuisine, sous chefs, and other specialists that work tirelessly to bring some of the most exciting plates in the country to the tables of Portland The location was top secret. The course allotment (nine in all) was determined a couple of weeks ago. Two deer from Applegate Deer Farm in Shapleigh, Maine were slaughtered, bled and dressed the thursday before. All that was left before the Deathmatch was a very busy weekend shift for the contestants. The anticipation for this night was running at high voltage in Portland's restaurant community. This is Chef Tomás (from Alsace-Lorraine) in the One Fifty Ate BOH an hour before the gathering: I received a private invitation through one of the participants and I was extremely honored to attend. There was about sixty people. Unfortunately, I lacked the stamina to carry through to the very end when some of the pieces de resistance were served but I managed to photograph some courses (I am tracking down other photographers who were there to hopefully fill in the gaps). The Menu (I'll copy these to course photos to follow), showed skill and imagination:

Aww johnnyd, you are such a tease! Nothing else you can reveal? Anyone we would know or are familiar with behind this new enterprise? ← Yup! Nope! Maybe... But I will seek permission and post as soon as I can even if it gets out before then. I still don't know whether it's service, retail or something else. ← According to sources close to the new tenant, this space will become a restaurant.

Can't wait, Roger! It's been many years since I've traipsed around Estoril and Lisbon.

Simply Stunning. You're right: there's no such thing as getting tired of tours of Grant's fascinating creations.

When I was in school in Burlington Vermont, we would pack into a car and drive the 90 minutes north to Montreal for an urban fix every three months. I loved walking around town and sampling the ethnic treats from storefronts and restaurants. The Jazz Festival there became an annual must-see years later. I love your town. I can still taste the draught St. Amboise from a little bar in Vieux-Montréal. Blog on.

La Cabrera is my kind of place - great presentation and a clear respect for their food.Spectacular journal, ajgnet. Outstanding photography as well. I am pining for a plane ticket to BA, believe me, and should one materialize, I would spend my time following the trail you haved mapped so diligently and professionally. Bravo!

New York Times visits craft brewing in Maine (link available for a limited time) Here is a tour of DLGeary Brewing from my foodblog #1.

Bonobo - 46 Pine St Portland, (207) 347-8267 A couple wednesdays ago, three of us went to the bar at this new pizza place, famous for their thin crust and ordered one of three specials called "crema". This had basil, spinach, leeks, caramelized onions, pine nuts and ricotta. As it was the end of the evening a manager, Ashley, was at a barstool ordering up the same but with mozzarella and prosciutto. Never to miss a hint from the staff I ordered the same. Since that night I have had a really hard time even looking at other pizzas in this town. It was probably the best pizza I have ever had. If you go, wash it down with a pint of Brooklyn Lager - they are one of two places in town who pull this excellent beer. Pic of the Bonobo Oven at work

Local News and Arts publisher The Bollard has issued it's autumn quarterly (PDF) with an article called "Whole Foods Markup" written by Stacy Mitchell, author of "Big-Box Swindle: The True Cost of Mega-Retailers and the Fight for America’s Independent Businesses." What began as a series of grumbles from local food producers eventually merited a front page spread showing local products getting marked way above the WF In-House brand "365" product line. Seems to counter WF "support for small-scale growers." and hard-working local producers are not happy. reprinted by permission from www.theBollard.com

Outstanding blog, Peter. I do love the food there so it's all very illuminating. And probably the best and most detailed kitchen tour ever on a foodblog. Thank you!

This is something I could get behind...

It really is amazingly complete and getting fed every day or two. I've never seen anything quite like it. Seems to me the pinnacle of what chambers of commerce websites across the world have strived for ever since the web was unleashed - only it's food-centric.I've sent an eMail to the author inviting him/her to check out this topic and comment at will in private. From what I can tell, it's a labor of love and probably satisfies an innate need to organize. (You all know who you are! )

Why, as a matter of fact, yes! I scrolled down the list to Fish Mongers, chose Free Range Fish & Lobster and got the following: How does it rate, Mr.B, since I witnessed your purchase there last month?

Portland Food Map Pinned in the eG France Forum is a Map of Restaurants in and outside of Paris, developed by M Joe Knox and Dave Hatfield. One can see the possibilities for other metropolitan areas, so I was excited to come across a comprehensive "map" - it's more of a hierarchical cluster analysis chart thingie - of Restaurants, Bars (including Sports, Pool Hall and Gay), Clubs, Cafés, Ice Cream parlors, Bakeries, Markets (both Super and Neighborhood), Farms, Butchers, Fish Mongers... etc., for Portland, Maine. There is a breakdown of styles such as the usual (and unusual) ethnic places (ethnic restaurants and markets on the map are color coded according to the part of the world they're from), Seafood-centric, Sandwiches, Pizza, BBQ, Pubs and even food carts. The non-edible category includes Cooking equipment sources, Organizations (eg. Slow Food), Annual Events (Greek Festival), Publications, and area foodblogs. From the Admin: The entire list is live-linked to websites, if available, and in the case of restaurants, a list of recent reviews in area publications, both print and online. It is organized in an elegant flow fashion that I find appealing. Screenshot: It is updated on a regular basis and occaisionally adds features such as the "Under Construction" list of places to open soon, and the "List of Unknowns" - places who have yet to get reviews. I find the "map" itself is so code-heavy that it hangs or disappears sometimes (on my system anyway) but the "List View" is always available. Portland Food Map