johnnyd

9th Course Sweet Potato Gyoza - Shane Dipping Sauce of Coconut, Sesame, Ginger & Sake 10th Course Tampopo Ramen - Bronwen Rich Chicken & Pork Broth - Braised Pork Belly - Pickled Ginger & Dandelion Greens - Duck Egg Mmmm! Pork Belly! Outstanding dish! 11th Course Japanese Pork Three Ways - Nolan Homestyle Ginger Braised Pork Loin - Pork Gyoza - Ton Katsu - Fried Pork Loin

6th Course Oyako Donburi - Jon Fried Livers - Slow-cooked Hearts & Gizzards - Dashi-Maki Tamago - Tsukemono Garnish 7th Course Foie Gras Maki Roll - Ichiban Joe Loch Duart Scottish Salmon - Foie Gras - House Pickled Carrot - House Soy sauce Fresh out of the deep-fry. These were cut into rounds and served 8th Course Duo of Fish - Sean Tartare of Light Snapper - Tangerine Rice Wine Vinaiggrette - Sashimi of Tarakihi - Ponzu Glaze - Uni Emulsion Delicious - one of my favorites Meanwhile, if you weren't prepping, plating or performing some sort of supporting role, you were nearby sampling some sakes, Despite the fact that gallons of top-shelf sake was served, all courses were served according to plan (one suffered appliance failure) and reasonably on time. No one seemed really surprised.

3rd Course Bonito & Yellowtail Nigiri - Steve & Merry Wild Rice - Black Trumpet &Miso Aspic - Fresh Horseradish See the Japanese "Hat" in aspic - didn't I say these were adorable? Did I say they were delicious? We all thought so. 4th Course Enokitake in Kimono - Don Grilled Enoki Mushrooms in Bacon and White Pepper 5th Course Maine Shrimp Sunomono - johnnyd Steamed Maine Shrimp - Honeybell Orange, Dashi, Scallion, Shiro Miso Vinaigrette - Cilantro Stalk - Pickled Daikon Dice - Key Lime Garnish

Another batch of photographs of this fabulous party has come in! I have picked through them to show some of the terrific food that night. Thanks to Ms Katie Selva for the following photos 1st Course Foieshimi - Krista Pan-Seared Diver Scallop - Shaved Foie Gras - Ginger Roasted Plum - Umeboshi Plum Roll 2nd Course Shabu-Shabu - Erik Shiso-Miso Marinated Black Cod - Saffron-Bonito Fumet Mussels & Pickled Fennel - Horseradish Rouille - Fennel Pollen

Fresh Sardines at Harbor Fish Market, Custom House Wharf, Portland ME Served with tomato/onion/cilantro in red wine vinegar, and country bread slices. This was a typical beach shack dish in Portugal only they were butterflied and grilled.

Try two cups red wine with whatever and any sliced citrus on hand - bring to boil with two generous spoons of sugar. Grapefruit works best, but throw in oranges and lemons too. Turn off, let cool and drink - in bed. You pass out and wake up good as new. Why not a stick of cinnamon?

Whew, awesome tour. The urchin with tapioca boggles my mind. Second the Shake Shack.

Meyer Lemon Caipirinha I like the orangey hint and you can cut back the sugar to bring the cachaça forward. See here for step-by-step.

Awesome. After our Japanese Deathmatch here in Portland Maine, I'm ready for the real deal. Lots of pictures please!

12th Course Nabemono - Courtney Udon Noodles - Shitake Confit - Duck Breast - Scallion Oil - Hard Cooked Egg The Hits keep on coming. Courtney put together a classic and it was a welcome dish after some big guns had rolled through. Clean and simple with tons of flavor. Perfect moment as we eased into the last three "dessert" courses. 13th Course - Andrew Rice Milk Sorbet - Pink Peppercorn Crusted Tuna - Soy Caramel Rice Krispy Treat Andrew certainly scored points for originality. I was unprepared for this - literally. Not having read the menu for this course, I photographed the following, and still I ate this with my fingers and was shocked that there was ice cream suddenly melting rapidly in my fingers. Doh! This terribly focused shot doesn't do justice to this inventive and delicious combination. The Krispy Treat kicked ass and neither that or the delicious ice cream kept the peppered tuna from coming forward. Loved this dish. 14th Course Ichigo Daifuku - Piepers Mochi Cake - Anko Paste - Strawberry 15th Course Beard Papa Style Cream Puffs - Samantha Green Tea - Ginger Wow! What a finish. Delicious nuggets of sweet goodness. I missed a couple courses and chalked it up to party momentum but I would have been really bummed out if I missed these two bites at the end of the night. eGullet member pastryelf (Samantha) is the proud producer of the Cream Puff and perhaps she would like to weigh in with their story? In any event, the feast was over but the party was in full swing. I never knew how long it went on but I found myself outside in the snow with a Remy Martin and a cuban cigar from Montreal in my hand somewhere south of two that morning. Probably explains why the following photo is so perfectly focused... Why is the ceiling so far away? Who is this... er, these attractive women?? Anyway, I have a ton of people to thank but I'll wait a bit for some names and places to come in first - plus, we have the far-better photographs of Ms. Katie Selva to add here later. Thank you for visiting us at the Deathmatch Japanese - March 9, 2008!

11th Course Japanese Pork Three Ways - Nolan Homestyle Ginger Braised Pork Loin - Pork Gyoza - Ton Katsu - Fried Pork Loin Folks who were trying to leave gave up when these aromas wafted through the house. Anyone for some pig? I thought so. The braise was simmering gently when I arrived that afternoon, a gazillion hours ago, torturing us all (see photo in post#1). Very, very satisfying dish - a big hit. After this I feel a hint of a full stomach. Might have been the Kirin Ichiban that I was sucking on though... hmm.

We are 10 courses into 15 on the menu and things are not slowing down. Not even close. The kitchen is a bee hive. People are jammed into the dining room. The living room has a bangin' soundtrack with Shonen Knife, The High-Lows, Ryuichi Sakamoto and other Japanese artists so dancing is irresistable. No one knows what time it is or even cares. Good time to take in the comprehensive sake offerings of the evening. There are things here I never knew existed, like Red-Rice Sake, and unfiltered Sake, which was opaque and silky. Check it out: Deathmatch Japanese Sake List: 1x Daimon Shuzo, Mukune "Shadows of Katano" Junmai Ginjo Nigori, Osaka, Japan, 720ml 2x Echigo Shuzo, Echigo Hana-Bonbori Junmai Ginjo, Niigata, Japan, 500ml 48x Gekkeikan Sake, Zipang Sparkling Junmai, Kyoto, Japan, 250ml 1x Gekkeikan Sake, Black & Gold Junmai Ginjo(?), Kyoto, Japan, 720ml 1x Gekkeikan Sake (U.S.A.), Light Gekkeikan Futsu-shu, California, United States, 750ml 1x Hakutsuru Sake, Hakutsuru Japanese Excellent Futsu-shu, Hyogo, Japan, 720ml 1x Hakutsuru Sake, Hakutsuru Superior Junmai Ginjo, Hyogo, Japan, 720ml 1x Kaetsu Shuzo, Kanbara "Wings of Fortune" Junmai Ginjo, Niigata, Japan, 720ml 1x Kasumi Tsuru, Kasumi Tsuru Yamahai Ginjo, Hyogo, Japan, 720ml 2x Kiuchi, Kikusakari Tarusake, Ibaraki, Japan, 720ml 4x Kiuchi, Kikusakari Tarusake, Ibaraki, Japan, 900ml 3x Kiuchi, Kikusakari Asamurasaki Red Rice, Ibaraki, Japan, 720ml 2x Kiuchi, Kikusakari Kurashizuku Junmai Ginjo Usu Nigori, Ibaraki, Japan, 375ml 1x Kiuchi, Kikusakari Kurahibiki Daiginjo, Ibaraki, Japan, 375ml 1x Kiuchi, Gekkakow Vintage Junmai Daiginjo 2002, Ibaraki, Japan, 375ml 1x Momokawa, Silver Junmai Ginjo, Oregon, United States, 750ml 1x Momokawa, Pearl Junmai Ginjo Nigori Genshu, Oregon, United States, 750ml 1x Nanbu Bijin, Nanbu Bijin "Ancient Pillars" Junmai Daigingjo, Iwate, Japan, 720ml 1x Ozeki, Ozeki Karatamba Honjozo, Hyogo, Japan, 300ml 1x Ozeki, Osakaya-Chobei Daiginjo, Hyogo, Japan, 300ml 1x Ozeki Sake (U.S.A.), Ozeki Nigori, California, United States, 375ml 1x Ozeki Sake (U.S.A.), Ginjo Premier Ginjo, California, United States, 720ml 1x Saiya Shuzoten, Yuki No Bosha Limited Release Junmai Ginjo, Akita, Japan, 720ml 1x Saiya Shuzoten, Yuki No Bosha Akita Komachi Daiginjo, Akita, Japan, 720ml 2x Sasaichi Shuzo, Madoka Honjozo, Yamanashi, Japan, 720ml 1x Sudo Honke, Sato No Homare "Pride of the Village" Junmai Ginjo, Ibaraki, Japan, 720ml 1x Takasago Shuzo, Takasago Ginga Shizuku Junmai Daiginjo, Hokkaido, Japan, 720ml 2x Tatsuuma-Honke, Kuromatsu-Hakushika Snow Beauty Nigori, Hyogo, Japan, 300ml 1x Tatsuuma-Honke, Hakushika Yamadanishiki Junmai, Hyogo, Japan, 300ml 1x Tatsuuma-Honke, Hakushika Junmai Ginjo, Hyogo, Japan, 300ml 2x Yamamoto Honke, Genbei San No Onikoroshi Futsu-shu, Kyoto, Japan, 180ml 1x Yamamoto Honke, MizunoShirabe Ginjo, Kyoto, Japan, 720ml 1x Yamamoto Honke, MatsunoMidori Junmai Daiginjo, Kyoto, Japan, 720ml 32 Sakes, 16 Breweries, 16 Styles, 10 Prefectures and 2 States, 91 Bottles, 38 Liters Holy Honshu! A million props go to Jon Dietz who stayed up until daylight to compile this list. You da man!

9th Course Sweet Potato Gyoza - Shane Dipping Sauce of Coconut, Sesame, Ginger & Sake With the deep-fry issues resolved, Shane got started on his wonderful gyoza. They came out piping hot and what a cool flavor! 10th Course Tampopo Ramen - Bronwen Rich Chicken & Pork Broth - Braised Pork Belly - Pickled Ginger & Dandelion Greens - Duck Egg This is the only photo I have of this incredible dish by chef Bronwen from 555 so we'll wait and see if KS comes up with one or two later. We are getting to the mains part of the menu at this point - dishes are complete meals in miniature. This tribute to Juzo Itami's "noodle western" was soulfood fusion - remarkable.

You know, I'm of the opinion that maki has no business being near a frialator, but when I saw course #7 I was ready to give it a try considering the quality dishes so far this evening. 7th Course Foie Gras Maki Roll - Ichiban Joe Loch Duart Scottish Salmon - Foie Gras - House Pickled Carrot - House Soy sauce I wanted to get a photo of this in it's black-sesame-seeded glory before it hit the batter but was too late. Unfortunately, things went awry at the second of four rolls when the fryer short-circuited a fuse. This was apparent as we saw a rapid decline of oil turbulence. We frantically reset plugs and appliance but I'm afraid the optimum oil temperature was a speck in the distance by then. Sadly, we watched as the rolls absorbed oil like a sponge and we had our first disappointment of the night. This may not have been actually true, however, because I didn't taste the result. It sure looked cool though and true to the crowd spirit, everyone rallied with yet another sake toast. 8th Course Duo of Fish - Sean Tartare of Light Snapper - Tangerine Rice Wine Vinaiggrette - Sashimi of Tarakihi - Ponzu Glaze - Uni Emulsion Sean worked really hard on this. I was cleaning some dishes nearby while he prepped. The orange smudge is his excellent uni emulsion and the only use of sea urchin at the event. The ponzu glaze on the tarakihi (native to the South Pacific) had a wisp of lemon as well. This was an extraordinary course, a favorite of the evening if the swooning around me was any indication. Clean flavors and perfect dressings for Seans choice of fish. A great success.

We have more pictures coming from photographer #2 shortly so I hope course #3 is among them. Suffice to say at this point it was equally if not more adorable than my ama ebi "cocktail". Glad you are enjoying this Hiroyuki! I offer apologies on behalf of the Deathmatch Posse to purists out there who take offense at our creative license, but without experimentation and imagination, so many of the world's culinary inventions would not be realized, would they?

6th Course Oyako Donburi - Jon Fried Livers - Slow-cooked Hearts & Gizzards - Dashi-Maki Tamago - Tsukemono Garnish Now we are getting serious. I really welcomed the fried liver at this point, and the little chicken hearts were sweet and chewy. The Tamago was as good as any sushi bar-made I've had and made a terrific finish. Fascinating dish!

5th Course Maine Shrimp Sunomono - johnnyd Steamed Maine Shrimp - Honeybell Orange, Dashi, Scallion, Shiro Miso Vinaigrette - Cilantro Stalk - Pickled Daikon Dice - Key Lime Garnish And exactly what else were you expecting from me?! Knowing the place is chaos during these things I did everything at home that morning. The toughest thing was keeping the shrimp from any water what-so-ever during the flash-cooling process so that they maintained flavor and firmness. I spent the day before perfecting the sauce so it was subtle enough for the shrimp to stay front and center. To keep within sunomono tradition (vaguely, anyway), I added scallion rings, pickled daikon for crunch and chinese, long-stemmed cilantro stalks for a fresh bite should one care for it. The Key Lime (Susie brand) hit me in the supermarket as a perfect garnish, and to make available for the diner to squeeze in should they want more zing. Mrs Johnnyd decided a little origami kimono should adorn each serving, so we worked on that the night before (she does a lot of decoupage). They were so popular, some people used them for sake sampling, which was going on endlessly. Besides being voted the most adorable dish so far folks seemed to like it, or they were just being polite. There were so many exciting dishes that night, mine seemed a bit lame, but one of my favorite sushi chefs from Miyake was there and his nod of approval was all I needed. Plus I was in and out of the kitchen so fast I was able to keep out of everyone's way and pull off a fun course. What's not to like?!

3rd Course Bonito & Yellowtail Nigiri - Steve & Merry Wild Rice - Black Trumpet &Miso Aspic - Fresh Horseradish [no pic] This little mouthful was served with a wee Japanese hat made of the delicious aspic - very clever - or at least I thought it resembled a sun hat at this point. (Might have been the Sake.) It was a fun presentation and a memorable flavor. 4th Course Enokitake in Kimono - Don Grilled Enoki Mushrooms in Bacon and White Pepper It was so busy in the kitchen, poor Don moved outside in the snow to prep this dish. Came out well though. Delicious flavor and stunning presentation.

2nd Course Shabu-Shabu (Naturally with Bouillabaisse Flavors Because Erik Can't Cook Japanese) - Erik Shiso-Miso Marinated Black Cod - Saffron-Bonito Fumet - Mussels & Pickled Fennel - Horseradish Rouille - Fennel Pollen I didn't catch any prep on camera but this was one of my favorites - or at least until the next course (it pretty much went this way all night). The saffron was arresting but never overwhelmed the fish, and finding the mussel was like a little surprise. Great fusion going on here.

One thing that guided the decision towards a Japanese theme was if everyone made small, intense dishes, we would avoid the problem of stuffing ourselves silly as we did at the Deer Deathmatch. Nine courses of venison and cooked deer product began to slow us down about half-way into the night. This time we have 15 courses but a reduced volume of food. I found myself very able to appreciate the subtleties of the chef's ingredients when each course was only two or three bites. 1st Course Foieshimi - Krista Pan-Seared Diver Scallop - Shaved Foie Gras - Ginger Roasted Plum - Umeboshi Plum Roll Roasted, plum perfectly sliced with Erik's custom-made (and highly coveted) blade from Washington State. Krista reflects on the plating so far. This was an awesome starter both in presentation and in flavor. You should have seen the smile on everyone's face. Tonights plan was going to go well. Very well.

The menu was printed on some smart-looking vellum (I'll type out each course later). I spilled enough sauce and sake on my copy you could probably wring it out and sell it. The private residence where the event was held had been decorated appropriately - Hello Kitty was everywhere. Since the theme was Japanese, a few participants dressed as Salary Men and the ladies in Kimonos. When I arrived mid-afternoon, a serious amount of prep was underway. Slow-cooked chicken hearts and gizzards for Course #6 (I think!) Above, Homestyle ginger braised pork for course #11 and a plum reduction a-simmer. I think this is duck for some tasty Nabemono (Course #12). Little did we all know the meal would unfold over hours and hours, but I can't think of any other place on the planet that I'd rather be. edit to add: Just received the impressive list of Deathmatch Sakes. Stay tuned.

Sunday, March 9, 2008 Fifteen Courses Sixteen Chefs Fifty Lucky People Five months ago, a group of talented restaurant professionals gathered here in Portland Maine on Sunday, October 14th 2007 for a cook-off - or "Deathmatch". The ingredient that night was deer from a local farm which was slaughtered and dressed by the cooks themselves. Just about every part of the animal was utilized. See: "Deer Deathmatch 2007" for the action on that legendary night. Talk of the next Deathmatch commenced immediately. It was decided that a Japanese theme would command the menu, with no specific ingredient required. The results were spectacular. I was once again asked to attend, and even invited to submit a course proposal which I happily accepted. The gathering lasted over 12 hours. The energy was even higher than October's Deathmatch - if that's possible. I snapped 50 pictures and stayed to the end. I will attempt to document each course in the following posts (almost all of them were amazing) filling in the blanks as they become available. Fortunately, the talented Photographer Katie Selva was on hand again this time so we'll have better pictures later on - after she and everyone else recover from another mythical feast in Portland Maine.

The Deer Deathmatch has been immortalized in a stunning, hard-bound book: Photographer Katie Selva's brother is an accomplished graphic designer for a high-end publishing firm, and created this single copy over the Christmas holidays. Recipes were included. Fonts from the event's menu were maintained in the book. The pages are of amazing quality, reminded me of silk. Naturally, we all want one but even a run of a hundred is very expensive. We are, however, exploring some options. Another accolade for this legendary feast.

Here's the latest list from the Farm Alliance Winter Market. They will be at their usual spot on Monument Square, Wednesday, March 12th from 11am to 1pm. TO JOIN THE LIST - Send an email to Simon at eatlocalallyear/AT\gmail.com THIRTY ACRE FARM - Whitefield ME M.O.F.G.A Certified Organic FERMENTED FOOD $6.00/16oz $10.00/32oz $38.00/1 gallon Fresh, Crunchy Sauerkraut Caraway Kraut (w/juniper berries) Ruby Kraut Kim Chi Gingered Carrots Sour Dill Pickles-$9 ORGANIC PORK Sausage- $10.00/lb. Breakfast Maple Breakfast Chorizo Bratwurst Ground (no seasonings) Nitrate Free Bacon-$10.00/lb. Fresh Pork belly $9.00/lb Pork Chops -Bone-in $10.00/lb. -Bone-out $11.00/lb. Stir Fry Tips-$9.00/lb. Pork Steaks-$10.00/lb. Tenderloin-$14.00/lb. Spare ribs-$7.00/lb. Country style ribs-$9.00/lb. Hams -$10.00/lb. Rolled Roasts (no bone, 2-3lbs.)-$11.00/lb. Loin Roasts-$10/lbs Bacon Tips- -$4.00/lb. Jowl (fresh)- $6.00/lb. Hocks-Smoked $5.50/lb. Hearts and Livers-$2.00/lb Leaf Lard (unrendered. Ask for instructions on rendering. it's easy!)-$4.00/lb. Back Fat-$3.00/lb Smoked ears! and Bones! For your dogs - $2.00/each FREEDOM FARM - Freedom, ME Lamb Sausage (4 links frozen) - $15/lb M.O.F.G.A Certified Organic Vegetables: Yellow and Purple Shallots -$5lb (1lb minimum) Shallot Deals $22.50 for 5lb $40 for 10lb Cull Parsnips $1/lb. GORANSON FARM - (Dresden, ME) M.O.F.G.A Certified Organic vegetables Storage Carrots $2/lbs Red or Purple carrots $2.25/lbs Small potatoes (Rose Gold, Red Cloud) 5lbs minimum $8 Cabbage (red and green) $1.50/lbs Red Beets $2.25/lbs TOWNHOUSE FARM, (Whitefield ME) Moogurt - (yogurt made from organic Jersey cow milk) 16 oz plain or maple - $4.00/ea Ballstown 1791 aged cheese - (not available in less than half pound portions, portions will not be exact). 3 month cow cheese - $16/lb Has a "high" flavor. Some say it tastes like a young asiago . Halloumi - the Cypriot frying cheese. $16/lb Cut into thin slices. Fry it directly on the pan (no oil or butter). Eat as an appetizer while it is still hot. It is like a mini grilled cheese sandwich without the bread! Great for folks with gluten intolerance and those that just like fun things to eat. MAINE-LY POULTRY Whole Chickens -$2.75/lb. Whole Chickens (cut up)-$3.00/lb. Bone-in Breasts-$4.00/lb. Boneless Skinless Breasts-$6.75/lb. Liver-$2.25/lb Ground Turkey-$4.50/lb. HOMEMADE ALL MEAT CHICKEN PIES LARGE $10.25 SMALL $4.75 HOMEMADE ALL MEAT CHICKEN PIES WITH PEAS LARGE $10.75 SMALL $5.00 SMOKED CHICKEN $12.00 and: RABBIT $3.75 LB.

Whew! I was getting worried there for a second...