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kerriar

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Everything posted by kerriar

  1. There is a very good small simple restaurant in Nimes very close to the Maison Carré - recommended by the people in Auberge du Cedre (they have short list) but I think also perhaps somewhere on this site or perhaps on Graham Tigg's site. yes - I've just found it as I checked the link - its the Vintage Café. Recommended
  2. Some notes on a recent dinner at the Wald und Schlosshotel Friedrichsruhe.website The hotel is what expects brings people to a Relais and Chateaux member – comfortable, discrete and, for some, reassuringly expensive. Although the staff said that there would be no problem about varying the dinner menu, it seemed ok as it was so we stayed with it. The only pity here was that anybody in the dining room who asked for a variation got a visit from the formidable chef/manager Lothar Eiermann to discuss the options so we missed that. The house champagne was blanc-de-blanc and came with two amuses – one a tiny spring roll with a game filling and a sauce which seemed to come from a concentrated game stock (hard to be sure with such a tiny morsel). A single de-veined shrimp, beautifully presented, followed. The first course Sautierte Jakobsmuscheln auf mariniertem Fenchel mit Ingwergelee und Kardamomjus was a pair of slightly seared scallops on a thin slice of marinated fennel with a soft ginger jelly and a cardamom mousse. This may seem like a lot of different flavours but they were both intense and perfectly balanced. The fennel in particular made me want to go into the kitchen to ask "how did you do that?". Loup de mer im Bouillabaisse-Sud mit zweierlei Tortellini – simple and near-perfect. Gratin von Bretonischen Hummer mit Hummernudeln was a piece of claw meat from the lobster with a light slightly creamy sauce but the lobster based pasta was incredible – intense and clean. Here I stopped wanting to go into the kitchen as clearly Herr Eiermann was using techniques which went beyond anything I would attempt. Etouffée-Taube in Salmis-Sauce mit Blumenkohl-Mandelpüree und Bulgur. The pigeon breasts seemed to bet the main reason for requests for change from other diners. Pity – because what we got were like tiny magrets, perfectly cooked, pink and tender. The cauliflower (yes, really) was surrounded by an almond puree and was divine – this I will try. Crépinette von Brie de Meaux mit Apfel-Variation. A small piece of soft ripe brie in a light, lacy pancake with variously cooked sharp apples – this scarcely does justice to either the presentation ot the balance of tastes. Erdbeeren unter Limettengelee mit Verveine Tee-Eis – strawberries with Limetten (what the hell was that? I've forgotten) jelly and and a tea flavoured ice-cream Hausgemachte Petits Fours came with the coffees. Wines were a 2004 Verrenberger Verrenberg dry riesling from the rather grandly styled Fürst zu Hohenlohe. I drink a lot of German rieslings but this is from an unfamiliar region – it was fine, slightly severe but nothing memorable. Our red was a Saint-Emilion 2001 Château Piney, again not immediately a familiar name. The nose was of ripe fruit balanced by some traces of tart cherries and it drank softly, giving up flavours consistent with the nose but with not a lot in the way of "arrière goût". Nothing exceptional but both wines were "correct". They came with the fixed menu and, should we return, I would look again at the wine list. This was really an enjoyable evening and the food was inventive and perfectly balanced. Herr Eiermann deserves his one star from Michelin. For most people, the hotel is not really on well trodden routes and, as a destination, involves some travelling. Friedrichsruhe is a pleasant spot and the hotel has a golf course which would rank with what you might expect on the outskirts of any unexceptional Irish country town. Perhaps one unique selling point – the Australian soccer team used it as their base in the 2006 World Cup and seemed to have enjoyed themselves a lot.
  3. Rachellindsay - yesterday Les Tartes de Françoise turned up trumps again when they provided the food for a lunch marking the arrival of a new baby in a friends' house. They deserve an endorsement and recommendation. I've used them several times and it always leads to people saying "where did you get the food?" This is a small family business run by Françoise and Olivier with a dedicated crew. Tarts, sweet or savoury, are all artisan made. The list varies according to the season and is very much driven by fresh ingredients and a spirit of integrity. You'll find their stuff in one or two shops such as the superb, if expensive, Rob (mentioned by paulbrussel) but they also deliver. It's worth however dropping into their atelier at 75 Avenue de l'Hippodrome where you'll see exactly how they put things together. You'll find all the necessary details as well as some lovely snap shots at http://www.tartes.be/presentation.php?lang=fr. It's only in French or Dutch but has clear self-explaining visuals - just take a look.
  4. The answer really depends on where you live. There are good markets all over the city. I usually go to either Place Chatelaine (Wednesday afternoon) or Boitsfort (Sunday morning) both for shopping or meeting friends for a drink and some al fresco eating. Expect organic food, fresh fish, good cheese etc Supermarkets are generally good but much better are the independent specialist food shops which you will find everywhere in the city. Poissonnière d'Agadir on Chaussee de Wavre (near European Parliament) is one of the best fish shops whilst Jack O'Shea on Rue le Titien is a great butcher. There are good artisan bakers everywhere - check out a branch of Pain Quotidienne if there is one near you. Otherwise just see which baker has the longest queue on Saturday or Sunday morning.
  5. Not what you expect in Dublin - I'm eating there tomorrow and will post some comments if I think it's worth a mention. A reservation for Chapter One was simply out of the question this weekend. Thornton's didn't really fit this weekend either. Thornton's hovers between one and two stars and on this occasion Michelin got it about right. The food is what you would expect at this level but it is expensive by any international standard - Brian B is correct when he puts it at about twice the price of a Benelux two or three star. I'm not sure if the Simon_S's defensive point about property prices being a contributory factor to the cost of eating in Dublin holds water - real estate in central Paris is even more expensive but you can eat more reasonably there at the top end of the market, not to mention in the more main-stream places. To me it seems that the lack of a critical mass for this level of fine dining will always mean that prices in Dublin are high if costs are to be recovered. A few Friday lunches in Thornton's over recent years have generally been in a half full restaurant whereas somewhere like the Sea Grill in Brussels (two stars, heading for a third) always seem to fill their tables even on a Monday night. These are good reasons for supporting somewhere like Mint (have not got there yet) since they raise the general consciousness of good food but it is still far too easy to eat badly in places in Dublin whose level of pretentiousness and lack of professional understanding of food does not deter them from charging rip-off prices. By the way, reading the comments in eGullet is one way of avoiding the latter fate.
  6. The website is here. The Savour Club is a commercial group which operates from warehouse type premises in several French speaking countries and also have a comprehensive distance selling operation. Because of the bureaucratic procedures involved, they are reluctant to sell to customers outside their main areas of operation. In Brussels they are just off Avenue des Celtes. Details of scheduled tastings can be found on the website -watch the moving window on the right hand side of the introductory screen and when you see Paris 16, click very quickly. The webmaster probably thinks this a very clever feature but it's really a bit annoying - it almost says "if you are not smart enough to figure this out, then you should not be here". On request, they will also do special tastings for groups of friends or colleagues, generally on the basis of charging just for whatever nibbles are provided. Prices are competitive and, not surprisingly, French wines predominate.
  7. Go to two star Sea Grill and you will be assured a memorable meal - don't be put off by the hotel location, in truth it never intrudes. If you decide to go there for your special event, take your time, explore the menu with the knowledgeable staff and peruse the wine list which comes like an offering at a high mass. Expect to pay accordingly but it's worth it - this is not one of the overpriced pretentious and transient places but a serious world class restaurant, it is both classical and ambitious at the same time.
  8. Thanks for these photos which bring back memories of eating in the afternoon shade or on warm summer nights last summer in Macedonia and Thrace. Simple meals using great local ingredients - especially the fish - makes eating here such a pleasure. We spent two weeks around Kavala for a family wedding last summer (Greek/Irish affair) and everybody still talks about the food. Apart from the wedding day itself there were lunches that seemed to go on for hours and hours with people who had not seen each other in years (both families are scattered across the globe) hopping between tables as dish after dish of delicious mezes, squid, octupus, fishes kept appearing from the kitchen seemingly ad infinitum. Food like this (and admittedly wine and tsipouro) brings many benefits - it breaks barriers, helps unwinding after long flights and even contibutes to easing small tensions that can bubble under the surface at every family gathering. Sazji next time I will cross the border and eat on the Turkish side - its been far too long since I've been there.
  9. Reassuring to hear that the Lord Edward is still doing what it does best - the place is blissfully stuck in a time warp and I always have a small fear that someone will try to update it (read spoil things) before I get to Dublin again. A word of warning - with Irish roads and traffic just forget about heading south from Armagh if you only have four days. Instead head over to McNean's on the border at Blacklion, Co Cavan which is a family run restaurant with a great chef working from good local materials. If the place was in France he would probaly have a Michelin star but Blacklion is near nowhere (except perhaps Armagh). I can't attempt to give you directions but try Via michelin - it will be less than 100 km which is about two hours driving in these parts! In the other direction, Carlingford is a lovely fishing village on the coast - there was at least one good restaurant there a few years ago but it changed hands so I'd prefer to leave it to somebody to give you some more recent leads. It#s a good place for native oysters however.
  10. It's stretching the time a bit since this is now December but I don't see a need to open a new topic on Rome but just hope that these observations might be useful to somebody. We just come back from a few days in Rome - some Christmas shopping, some good food and wine plus a sprinkling of culture and pure relaxation. Two very good lunches deserve comment. First day was in Cul-de-Sac where we more than doubled the bill with a great Amarone (from Trabucchi) – pasta followed by baccala or vaccinara (ox-tail) both of which stood up well to the wine. This place is small like a railway carriage with luggage nets to catch falling bottles of wine completing this impression. The wine list is awe-inspiring with a range that will knock back all but the most dedicated Italian wine aficionado. On the second day, lunch was at Alfredo's by the Parthenon. Unprepossessing exterior immediately gives way to a classic small Italian restaurant interior – walls are covered with photos of families and friends, cartoon drawings and pennants of soccer teams from across the world, some famous and some fairly obscure. Kitchen is at the back – it looks and smells good, reinforcing the feeling that you have come to the right place for lunch. Our entrees were spaghetti aglio-olio and a simple antipasto of warm vegetables. Main courses were lambs hearts and tripe Roman-style – unpretentious winter food but cooked with care for these democratic ingredients. The wine list here is shorter and we drank a Salice Salintino costing around €22. That evening we went to Gusto, sat in the wine bar for a couple of hours over a few glasses and some light nibbles just talking and watching people come and go – Gusto is well written up elsewhere on the site but I can add that it is a good place to head for after a day spent shopping and walking. The Gusto shop is open late and has an impressive range of kitchen utensils. We stayed at the Domus Sessoriana , see website, which is simply an oasis of calm within the walls of the Cistercian monastery of the Holy Cross – it's also near the metro San Giovanni. Across the square, there are a few reasonable places for informal eating on Via de la Sante Croce. We had no restaurant reservations but, accepting that this is the third week in December, it might be wiser to book at most times of the year given that these places are all fairly close to the tourist areas. Once again, eGullet advice has proven uniformly dependable.
  11. I have a few cases of 70's riesling (including still very drinkable 76) and the bottles give great pleasure when shared with friends. Russ Parsons has got it right - it will make a perfect aperitif. The alcohol level will be low which means two can finish off a bottle without ill effect. These wines have an amazing capacity to keep ageing. Until recently 30 year old rieslings could be picked up in Germany for not much more than €5 per bottle - for many years they were not the most fashionable wines but for sheer drinking pleasure at this price they are hard to beat.
  12. Also very surprised at Drolma's upgrading. I had a meal there a few weeks ago where the food was difficult to fault but the price/value ratio was way off any scale and the whole setting was a bit sterile. "Difficult to fault" is really not saying a lot in a part of the world where there are so many great restaurants. The wine list was expensive and it was hard to find interesting bottles with two figure prices (i.e., under €100). In mitigation, most of the prices were commensurate with other high-end lists elsewhere but they simply gave no concern to the fact that many people do not want to pay so much even at the top of the market. By way of comparison, Patrick Guilbaud in Dublin has an imaginative, trustworthy and pleasurable choice below €100 which can be checked out on-line. I can't comment on New York but the level of service was really a long way off what would be expected in a Parisien starred restaurant. At times it even came close to surly - this was especially the case with the wines, champagne was pushed aggressively as an apertif, opinions sought on the list were given in an off-hand fashion (perhaps because we made it clear we did not want to break €100?) and when we said that we would like some more wine with the cheese (very good) another bottle of the (also very good) red Bierzo simply appeared on the table, something which would be just about ok in mid-price bistro. The service and overall athmosphere simply does not compare with recent meals in Pré Catalan and Prunier in Paris, in both of which the staff are charm personified and totally professional to the last detail. I wasn't going to post anything on what was really just another overpriced meal in a run-of -the-mill up market restaurant until I saw this thread. Now I've got it off my chest - it was not a bad meal but none of us will go back there.
  13. For almost 10 years Jack O'Shea's has been indisputably one of the best butchers shops in Brussels - they have recently opened a London branch in Montpelier Street. If the name does not seem particularly Belgian, its probably because this family run business originates in Tipperary. In a city with a strong informed food culture they have built up a reputation, supported by out-the-door queues for top end food from Ireland (dry aged beef, poultry, game, cheese, smoked salmon), Belgium (organic pork from the Ardennes), UK (Scottish beef, English cheese) and France (poultry, foie gras, etc). It's not the cheapest place in town but the quality is beyond reproach - it's run by serious people who are attentive to continuity and quality, putting a lot of work into sourcing suppliers and establishing long term working relationships based on full traceability. The Brussels shop at Rue le Titien attracts media comments along the lines of here and here. I can't say anything about the London operation but would expect equally high standards - would be interested to hear any feed back but can only give a strong disinterested recommendation.
  14. That is a good up-to-date list from Paulbrussel that will be dependable for any visitors. One or two caveats - accepting that I have not been to all of the places either recently or at all (but Brussels is a small town and we speak to each other): Aux Armes de Bruxelles is famous and very long established but recent visit from German friends found it was a bit tired and trading on its reputation. It is still the best place around the Grande Place by a distance but that may not be saying much. Belga Queen - good athmosphere but for food basically just ok. Chez Marie (one star with fab wine list), Clef des Champs, Dames Tartine(both top notch traditional), Fourneau (tapas really), Resource (innovative and branché), Vigne a l'assiette (wine list!), viva m'Bono (végétariennes s'abstiens) - in the word(s) of James Joyce "Yes"
  15. Skoolpsyk, I know that they are expensive and could probably direct you towards mass-market products like the ubiquitous but not bad Leonidas. This however misses the point which is the sheer outstanding quality of the real Belgian chocolatiers. Much better (not just for your pocket) really just to buy a small quantity of something good and savour it - even the most expensive shops will happily sell you two or three pralines, putting them with care into an exquisite sachet after you have picked the ones you want. If the shop is not too busy they will even discuss the flavours and the order in which you should eat your €3 or €4 purchase.
  16. Thanks for the useful comments, including the slightly shocked one from budrichard. What I have learned is as follows: - cooked spleen is a popular street food in Italy, in particular in Sicily. - spleen is one of the ingedients in the classic Greek easter Saturday night soup served after mid-night mass. This I have eaten, so somewhat to my surprise I have already eaten spleen. - spleen is routinely used by butchers in mince since it adds a bright red colour naturally so probably many of us have eaten it without realising it. In the end we did cook the two pieces of spleen and gave them to Coko the dog who was very happy. Point of info - she (!) is named after Joe Rokocoko, the All-Black winger.
  17. Any recent experiences with Chez Jean in the Rue St Lazare? It got a so-so mention on eGullet a few years ago but since then hardly a whisper. It does crop up from time to time in the conversations of branchés Parisiens. It apparently needs reservation a week or two in advance and I'm reluctant to take a chance on the wrong restaurant for a one-night pre-Christmas trip to Paris with the woman who shares my life. (By the way, she wants to try Gerard Depardieu's place - about which I can only claim total ignorance.)
  18. In my fridge I have two (pieces, rolls, whatever) of veal spleen which my butcher gave me this evening - they come, like all his meals from high quality, fuly traceable organic sources but I think he threw them in for free because they are slow sellers. I've found a couple of Italian recipes which produce a kind of paté to be spread on crostini but they are a bit vague - no details of how long to cook and what temperature as well as some references to removing the skin which don't seem to make sense. Any experiences or suggestions?
  19. Mais les prix sont (un peu) exagérés!! Has anybody any experiences, even second hand, of the 3 day weekends - from €2,500 for a couple raises pretty high expectations. The FAQs say "Each evening we will offer you some carefully selected wines with dinner. A range of wines or drinks will also be available for you to purchase" - this may be careless wording but seems to say that you have to put your hand into your pocket if you want to drink some wine.
  20. Slow response here probably just means that you've listed all the right places. The only addition I can make is to suggest that you eat at least once at Kollias in Pireaus which is well written up elsewhere. Nearly everybody who goes there however has their lost taxi driver story so check out the very clear instructions from Busboy here Kolias also has an inspirational website. It's in Greek but go take a look anyway.
  21. Both of those are impeccable recommendations. Marcolini is more modern and inventive - the pralines are slightly smaller so maybe better for keeping in shape. They have several other outlets around the city and I think somebody has posted some photos elsewhere on eGullet. Wittamer also has a patisserie shop and café a few steps way from the chocolate shop. Mary on Rue Royale is traditional and supplies chocolates to the Belgian royal court. For other speciality shops the choice is wide as Brussels has a strong food culture. It depends where you are staying and the better ones are in residential areas where people just know where to shop in their own locality. Maison Felix in rue Washington has foie gras, cheese, meat, wine, prepared dishes and an up-market selection of wines as well as a small wine bar (also a restaurant but I have not eaten there). Nearby in avenue Lepoutre, Le Déjeuner sur l'Herbe is a small épicerie - again foie gras, wine cheese but also Dandoy biscuits.
  22. Il San Pietrino at Piazza Costaguti 16, (06) 68806471 is a place I have been back to several times and never been disappointed. It's a favourite with the officers of the Guardia di Finanza which is always a good sign in Italy (don't ask how I know that but believe me, it's true). The food is good Roman - deep fried baby artichokes certainly worth trying - and the evening crowd will be 90% Italian. It's not so easy to find - Piazza Costaguti is just off the north side of Via del Portico d'Ottavia and the restuarant is through an almost unmarked door in the corner of the square.
  23. Corinna and Catriona's recommendations are spot-on for Dublin and give excellent guidance for any visitor. This is a city where it is all too easy to spend money on indifferent food and informed comments like the above are most valuable. To the list I would add Roly's in Ballsbridge as well as Ely Wine Bar (Ely Place - is it still there?) and Frere Jacques on Dame Street - although I have not been back to the latter in the last couple of years so a more recent update may be needed. Telling people about Caviston's brings mixed feelings - but only because it is so small with only a handful of tables and booking is not always easy, particularly at short notice. It is however a great place to eat a slow lunch and the best compliment I can give to their dependable combination of quality and simplicity is that here is a restaurant which would not be out of place in any Basque town. The Caviston family also run a great food shop and this was a regular Saturday morning haunt when I lived nearby.
  24. Place Ste Catherine, the old Brussels fish market area, has many fish restaurants which seem crowded all the time. Alas most of them are just ok but seem to have little problem attracting tour groups. On the Quai aux Briques, both Jacques and Bij den Boer are better than the average. Neither seem to have changed anything in years so you can expect dishes like croquettes aux crevettes, tomato crevettes, bisque de homard, sole meuniere or the inevitable bouillabaisse de la Mer du Nord - and of course good frites. For something slightly more raffiné, you could try Le Loup Galant (02-219.99.98) which serves a Marseille style bouillabaisse. If I had visitors who really wanted to eat in the Ste Catherine area, this would be my first choice but frankly Brussels has much more to offer.
  25. Can anybody recommend a good serious food/cookery book on Greece? Ideally I'm looking for something equivalent to what Marcella Hazan does for Italy - lots of photos are not really a priority, rather someone who writes authoritatively and clearly about ingredients, recipes and the general philosophy of Greek food. Any suggestions welcome.
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