Adam Balic

There are plenty of changes to industrial agriculture that would be welcome from a sustainability perspective, though I'd be reluctant to embrace anything that increases the price of food for poor people unless it's based on a real cost-benefit analysis as opposed to precautionary-principle mumbo jumbo. But let's ask what locavores like Alice Waters are really advocating. I think we should be clear on that, so as not to be setting up any straw men. My understanding is that the Alice Waters vision for the world involves local, small-scale agriculture providing for 100% (or 90+% if you allow for the chocolate and other probably imported items in use at Chez Panisse) of our food supply. This is simply impossible without large-scale reorganization of society. A substantial percentage of the world's population would need to be compelled to either: 1-labor in the fields, 2-become vegetarian, or 3-die. Or, most likely, a combination of the three. ← Is there anyway of supplying Mexico City or Beijing with enough pork that would fit into this local small scale model (Waters et al) of agriculture? Are there realistic models for this? If not then what is the population cut off for a city to feed itself from local small scale agriculture? Many population centres are not located in areas that are suitable for large scale production of any model, what happens to these? ← If Mexico City is relying on industrial pork, that is a relatively recent phenomenon. One of the problems with industrial agriculture is that it is pushing many small farmers out of business in countries like Mexico, further contributing to urban congestion and illegal immigration. ← That isn't the question that I asked. I would imagine that the relatively recent phenomenon of industrial agriculture also coincides with more people at different social strata eating meat, not just a lucky minority. What I want to see is a realistic model for feeding a +5 million population city from local small scale farms. Which isn't such a big ask, given the huge amount of press given to eating locally from small scale farmers etc. Which is not to say that I don't get local and small scale. My family are farmers, so I know exactly what is involved. I personally have bought 25 apple trees (all pre-19th century varieties), 8 different types of quince, 2 medlar varieties, a dozen rare plums, ditto near extinct varieties of figs, 2 types of cardoon, I only grow one variety of zucchini which comes from the area around Florence, 3 types of 18th century melon, dozens of rare citrus, dozens of rare herbs etc etc. But this is my indulgence and it isn't going to feed a city. Which is the point.

There are plenty of changes to industrial agriculture that would be welcome from a sustainability perspective, though I'd be reluctant to embrace anything that increases the price of food for poor people unless it's based on a real cost-benefit analysis as opposed to precautionary-principle mumbo jumbo. But let's ask what locavores like Alice Waters are really advocating. I think we should be clear on that, so as not to be setting up any straw men. My understanding is that the Alice Waters vision for the world involves local, small-scale agriculture providing for 100% (or 90+% if you allow for the chocolate and other probably imported items in use at Chez Panisse) of our food supply. This is simply impossible without large-scale reorganization of society. A substantial percentage of the world's population would need to be compelled to either: 1-labor in the fields, 2-become vegetarian, or 3-die. Or, most likely, a combination of the three. ← Is there anyway of supplying Mexico City or Beijing with enough pork that would fit into this local small scale model (Waters et al) of agriculture? Are there realistic models for this? If not then what is the population cut off for a city to feed itself from local small scale agriculture? Many population centres are not located in areas that are suitable for large scale production of any model, what happens to these?

Many older varieties need salting as they are excessively bitter, but it isn't required for most types that are sold in the suoermarket etc. However, salting doesn't just remove bitterness, it removes moisture and changes the texture of the eggplant. So I tend to salt, except for very liquid dishes.

"Farro" just means hulled wheat, not that this is simple or straight forward as its Latin root is "Far" refers to emmer, in most cases but hulled wheat in general, and spelt in particular in some instances.The Wikipedia reference that you didn't link to, "farro", mentions they three types, which includes Spelt and the farro from Anson Mills that you buy is Spelt. If want to ensure getting emmer (farro medio), then you proberly have to buy Farro della Garfagnana (IGP), which is sort of the point of IGP. Usually the vacuum packed Farro della Garfagnana has the species name (mostly mis-spelt ) written on the label. This link gives a useful background to farro in generalfarro research

Actually spelt is farro, in the sense that farro means hulled wheat (einkorn, emmer and spelt). From a culinary point of view when farro is mentioned it usually refers to emmer wheat, largely due to the promotion of emmer farro in Tuscany, especially Farro della Garfagnana (IGP). It isn't clear what the Anson Mill piccolo farro is from the website (possibly einkorn), but they mention the three types of farro and mention that their roasted farro is Spelt.

What dough do you use? I have a few recipes, but are looking for more.

I've eaten them in Austria and bought a whole bunch of the cured lard back to UK, when I lived there. Delicious stuff.

Fregula with clams seems to be a classic combination, but here is some information on how to make it and cook with it. Like I said it was a by-product of making couscous in my early attempts, I don't really get much of the larger granules now. If I want some fregula I have to deliberately go back to being a bit cack handed at making couscous.

Here are the three sizes of couscous I make. The large irregular granules on the right end up as fregula. Fregula Sort of a soupy fish couscous

As far as I can determine it is the same/similar to the northern Greek kouskousi, which are little balls of pasta made by rolling flour with eggs and milk. It is boiled rather then steamed.

Did this Turkish lady also mention Turkish "Kouskous", which is made a little differently to the North African type. In answer to you question, yes I make it quite often. Originally following the technique published by Paula Wolfert. I use a medium semolina as the nucleus and add fine semolina to build up the granules. I find it very simple now, although it does take some practice to get the right "feel". Altering the way they you make it (more water, less water;) lets you change the proportions of fine to larger granules. I keep the bigger clumps (if any) and toast them and keep them in a jar, when I have enough I make a Sardinian fregula with them. In terms of regular couscous, I get a very fine granule and a medium granule using sieves, if I use the steamer part of my saucepan steamer, I get a bigger round granule. All are used in different ways.

Instead of grating it straight onto the pasta, for variation you can grate it then put this into some olive oil that has had some garlic cooked in it. You only want to do this for a moment or two, otherwise it will burn. This then can be used to dress the pasta. It alters the flavour and reduces the fish flavour, while enhancing a nutty sweetness. Bortargo is also surprisingly good with beans (white beans cooked with olive oil, garlic and sage for instance).

Some times a little sugar helps balance things out as much as salt or acid. A little un-sweetened dark chocolate works well for some richer braises. Acid is often missing or out of balance, so vinegar, verjuice or certain fruit juices and concentrates can be used.

"Sea fennel" is rock or true samphire (Crithmum maritimum), it is a umbelliferous plant and even tastes a little like fennel. I have a few plants, it grows very easily and makes a lovely pickle. Salacornia (marsh samphire) I like well enough in the UK, but the local southern Australian species doesn't taste as nice.

I use this method occasionally and it's certainly possible to get the textural contrasts from surface to centre. However, the surface texture takes a little getting used to. It feels a little clammy (unsurprisingly), a little more like fresh pasta, and sauces adhere well. And it's certainly low energy! I can't find mention of this technique in any of the books in my collection. Perhaps Adam has seen something like it? ← As I mentioned privately, I am going to give this technique a go over the weekend and then I will report back. The Interweb reports that many people have tried the Agnesi cooking technique over the years and generally with positive results. Agnesi is a company that is founded/based in Liguria, so I wonder if the technique they describe is a reflection of the Ligurian pasta cooking techniques that I banged on about earlier. As to why a lot of water is "tradionally" used to boil pasta, I think that it comes back to the more widespread use of dried durum wheat pasta in the late 19th/early 20th century. In discussion Neapolitan macaroni Artusi says; “Quanto ai maccheroni, insegnano di farli bollire in un recipiente largo, con molt’acqua, e di non cuocerli troppo.” (As for the maccheroni, they [Neapolitans] instuct to make them to boil in a wide container, with a lot of water, and not to cook them too much.) Which I think is drawing attention to how to cook a relatively new/unusual product ( click here to see what this pasta looked like). This is also about the same tome that "al dente" first is used to describe the texture of well cooked pasta. When talking about how to his local fresh pasta Artusi, doesn't really mention volumes of water, more he is concerned with cooking it "poco" (a little). In modern English translations this is translated as "al dente", but I'm not sure this is what he means, especially in regards to fresh soft wheat pasta.

The best I can find is that 5g of titanium gelatin will set 250ml of water to a firm set. This equates to the numbers given above as 2.5g of silver will do the same thing. Once can reason that the bloom strength of titanium is less than the others but I couldn't find it quoted anywhere. The one formula I found for converting between weights for different bloom strengths was wrong and using linear regression did not give a perfect fit. ← Thanks for that, confirms what I found empirically. So for making a non-turned out pannacotta would you go for 1% or 2% w/v gelatin/liquid.

Any information on the bloom strength/weight of titanium gelatin sheets? Annoyingly it is the most common variety sold locally.

If you would like any suggestions for 16th century food, then let me know. It will sort of resemble extant Middle-East and food then "Tradional English" (largely 19th century). A shame you can't get Calocybe gambosa in your neck of the woods.

That sounds right to me. 1, 5, 13 seem fairly Irish and 9, 12 more English or Welsh. 11 has Dutch relatives while 14 is widespread. 15 is a Cape Breton thing. ← Yep, Scouse (or Lobscouse) was the dish of Liverpool, hence "Scouser". But as a sailor's dish it pretty widespread under various similar names.

Getting away from historic stuff for the moment, it is still not clear to me what people are refering to when they say that can cook dried "pasta" easily in a small amount of water. Pasta is a general term for a huge range of products, I would find it hard to see how you could cook Ziti in a small amount of water for instance. Small shell pasta, maybe.

Apropos of this method, a recipe from Roz Gold's Recipes 1-2-3. No broth in it, only the puree from canned tomatoes. I scratched my head when I first read this recipe, and wondered how the dish would turn out. Although I'm curious about it, I've never tried it. Gold says Giuliano Bugialli found this recipe in an 1841 Italian cookbook. Bugialli says any short tubular pasta will do. A Very Old Neapolitan Recipe Macaroni and Tomatoes adapted from Recipes 1-2-3 8 oz dried cavatelli 6 TB olive oil 1 28-oz can imported plum tomatoes in puree Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Lightly grease a large shallow casserole dish. In a bowl, mix the pasta and the olive oil, and let stand for 20 mins. Then add in the tomatoes, 1 tsp coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Mix well. Place the mixture in the casserole dish. Bake for 45 mins, stirring occasionally so the pasta doesn't stick. Serve immediately. Anybody ever try anything like this? What was the texture of the pasta like? ← Ducasse likes the technique (link). The result would be superior to the methods discussed in the McGee article, but isn't trying to emulate the technique of cooking pasta in a large amount of water, draining, then dressing with a sauce, it is another technique entirely and therefore produces a different result. I'm pretty sure that the technique that Ducasse came across is the fideos technique that I discussed above. Liguria was and is a real strong hold of the style, in the 16th century pasta making guilds sprung up in Liguria, one often quoted example is the "Regolazione dell'Arte dei Maestri Fidelari"(Rules for the Art of Pasta-Masters Corporation) which was publish in Savona. Now this pasta making style is locally called Fidelanza/Fedelini (and other variations) It would be interesting to know what cookbook Bugialli go the recipe from and what it is called.

Pasta is steamed in Tunisia for some dishes (in a similar manner to couscous). Takes longer then boiling.

Interesting question, Adam. I don't have an answer or even a hypothesis. But I can say that my experience is that fresh pasta needs lots of water -- perhaps even more than dry, although for different reasons. Fresh pasta tends to be well dusted with flour to keep it from sticking together, and I think that boiling in lots of water is a good idea if the cooking medium is not going to turn into sludge. Also, fresh pasta is often far more likely to stick together in the pot if it is not given sufficient room to separate and expand. Stirring, in my book, is something that I generally want to avoid as I like my fresh pasta very thin and delicate, and stirring is likely to break the strands of pasta -- better to gently agitate in lots of water so that the strands can find their own way. Cooking fresh pasta in too little water, in my experience, is a recipe for "clump o' boiled dough." Of course, one expects that McGee was likely using store bought "fresh" pasta for his experiments. ← This would be my experience too. I do wonder if I am missing something though, in terms of how these pasta where cooked historically. I've a few Italian recipe collections and will look at them to see if they mention volume of cooking liquid. Since the pasta is cooked in a broth, I don't think that we would be taking about very large volumes. One final thing that was missed in the McGee article. Historically a lot of pasta was cooked in broth (as I've banged on about above), there was a whole range of this style that was called fideos, fideus, fides, alfideus etc etc, the geographic range of the dish was Spain, North Africa, Arab world, Jewish world, Southern France (up to Grenoble), Liguria, Sardinia and Northern Italy, especially Liguria. Some of these pasta where like small fine dumplings made out of soft wheat flour (of chestnut flour), but a lot, especially extant recipes are made from dried durum wheat pasta. One traditional way of dealing with them is to fry them in oil, then cook them in broth (until you get a thicken soup or a dry dish), but an easier modern method is to coat them with a little olive oil and toast them in an oven and then cook them in minimum broth (like a paella). Using this pre-cooking method, the pasta never sticks together. You can even cook them on top of the stove using the same method as the rice absorption (I'm sure you could use a rice cooker, but I haven't done this). If you are interested in saving fuel, but don't want to stir pasta for ever, then I think that this technique is a big improvement of anything in the McGee article.

To be fair, I'm not sure that McGee is saying that it is a better tasting product, more an investigation of the cooking technique. What is an interesting question is that as cooking pasta is in a large volume of water is water and fuel inefficient how did it become the standard technique? If you are cooking over coal or charcoal this is an important consideration. Many recipes for cooking pasta pre-1800's, the pasta is cooked in broth (fideos style) (similar to the McGee technique), which makes more sense from an energy and water point of view. In most older recipes the pasta is cooked in broth, not water, so the volumes are likely to have been less also. There is good evidence that pasta was eaten by the poor in Naples during the late 19th century and dried pasta became a staple for much of the rest of Italy from this period onwards. Is this cooking technique a consequence of using dried durum wheat pasta, where 'graduation of texture' is hugely important. With fresh past made with soft wheat flour this isn't so much of an issue, the overall texture is more important.

So are the restaurants in the historic centre only going to be allowed to serve cucina Lucchese, or Tuscan food in general or Pan Italian? I will be interested to see how it turns out, hopefully not like the excruciatingly "Tuscan theme park" effect in the historic centre of San Gimignano.