FatTony

We live in the neighborhood and we visit Ici a fair bit. Our experiences have been so mixed it's hard to recommend wholeheartedly. And yet when it works it works really well, as Bruni says, succeeding because it accomplishes what it sets out to, and no more. Despite the protestations of the neighborhood's boosters, Ici is one of the few places in Fort Greene with real ambition and capable of what I'd call Manhattan quality food. (There are several more such places in Park Slope). Foodwise, the issue is inconsistency. I've had a wonderful french toast at brunch, perhaps the best I've ever eaten. The brunch bacon is thick cut, juicy and fatty (in the best way). They've offered a great short rib sandwich (lunch only) and the roast potatoes are delicious. I've had that squid dish and the paprika really does lift it. Last night I had a simple and delicious cucumber and yoghurt soup with plenty of mint, a perfect appetizer on an unusually warm May evening. But my roast chicken entree (a breast, a heap of white beans) was merely good and poor value at $21. On another occasion, a duck confit appetizer came inundated by a mustardy dressing that was itself overpowering. The accompanying cornichons upped the acidic ante. Their sole pasta entree ("cavatelli, good olive oil, scallions") needs a fourth ingredient. The curry chicken salad sandwich with date and walnut is so sweet it ought to be offered as dessert. My other beef lies with the service. When Ici is busy the staff simply can't cope. On numerous occasions I've been seated, waited for a menu, received the menu, been unable to attract a server to take my order, finished eating, can't get the check. Friends of ours who live in the neighborhood won't go back for this reason alone. During our last brunch visit all this happened, my eggs were seriously undercooked and we received the wrong check. In this respect, Ici suffers from a malaise that's common among Brooklyn restaurants: it's not quite professional enough for prime time. The lack of real competition will keep me coming back, as will the lovely outside space and a decent wine list. But I think Ici could learn a few things from first rate Park Slope spots like Al di La, Blue Ribbon and Stone Park. Looking forward to hearing about your experience Oakapple.

Probably a bit under the radar if you're not in the neighborhood but we had a good dinner last night at Olea on Lafayette Avenue (Fort Greene, near the Clinton Hill border). Along with Ici this is one of the best restaurants in the nabe IMHO. Mediterranean food, big flavors.

Not sure if it qualifies price-wise (they're not on menu pages) but I'm surprised no-one's mentioned Bar Pitti on 6th Avenue. I've always enjoyed eating there and they have enough sidewalk space for a pleasant outdoor experience in the summer. My favorite though, would be Po on Cornelia. Long after Batali left I think this place continues to stand on its own merits. And while it may be at the top end of cheap I've never had a better spaghetti alla vongole in New York. Theirs is flecked with a tiny dice of pancetta and chili. It's $12.

Morfudd, for what it's worth, I'm a transplanted Londoner (been here eight years ) with a restaurant fetish, so I thought I'd weigh in. Bux speaks the truth with regard to WD-50. Another envelope pusher might be the newly opened Gilt, which I haven't eaten at but seems to be getting excellent reviews. I understand the food is relatively less 'out there' than the chef's earlier endeavors. There's a thread here if you search. Actually, there's a thread for every place I'm about to mention. There are several kinds of Japanese in NYC, any of which you might want to check out. There are the haute sushi joints, of which Sushi Yasuda and Sushi of Gari would be worthwhile visits (and inspire fierce partisanship on this board and elsewhere). I'd say Yasuda may be the more conservative (no bad thing) and Gari the more creative in terms of the style of sushi and sashimi. Some think Jewel Bako is up there too. The top-end choice in the category is Masa, which will set you back something like $400, more than I'm willing to spend, but your call. A second Japanese option would be the noodle bars. Minca and Momofuku get good reviews and represent a valuable (and MUCH less expensive) alternative to the sushi dens. I like Momofuku for its Berkshire pork alone. Honmura An may be the best regarded place for handmade soba noodles. Any of these are worthwhile visits in my opinion. All of these are quite dfifferent propositions from Wagamama by the way. (Which I like.) There's yet another kind of Japanese here, the palatial, scene- and decor-driven type places, some of which offer good food but are generally riskier bets (and damned expensive). Examples might be Megu, Matsuri, Ono. This is the most dynamic sector of Japanese dining in New York today. Hip/Trendy (and to my mind great food) might include Spice Market, a venture into SE Asian street food by Jean Georges Vongerichten, one of the city's best regarded chefs. This is a bigtime scene but the food is often excellent and it's a cool space. You could also check out Public, owned by the same people who run Sugar Club in London (I believe) though to my mind infinitely more interesting. It's a sexy space and the food is creative yet reliable. Some other, purely subjective suggestions (aren't they all) based on good meals I've had in the past year might include: Casa Mono, a slightly cramped neo-tapas place (if I don't say neo the purists will jump on me) that has not failed me for flavorful dining on any of six or so visits. If you're alone it's fun to sit at the counter. If you're interested in tapas (also having a bit of a moment here in NY) you could check out Alta and Tia Pol, the latter of which is possibly the more classic tapas experience. Alta has solid food too. Prune, a chef owned boite (also cramped I'm afraid) has idiosyncratic choices and a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere. A truly original brunch too. You could consider Five Ninth and The Fatty Crab, two spots which are strongly informed by the tastes of the chef-owner, Zak Pelaccio. Fatty Crab slings Malaysian food and doesn't pull its punches flavor-wise. Five Ninth is set in a converted townhouse in the meatpacking district, a love-it-or-hate-it neighhborhood that attracts throngs every weekend and which any restauranteur ought to check out. Five Ninth isn't too sceney and has great, eclectic food. I've never had a bad meal at Savoy, yet another chef-owned spot with an emphasis on seasonal and local ingredients. You might check out Hearth for a not dissimilar experience in a larger space. I doubt many would disagree Babbo and Le Bernadin are still at the top of their game among other high end spots. Happy dining! edited because I thought Yasuda but said Kuruma

My $0.02 We visited Zabb last night for an early dinner at 6pm. We found it empty but for the little girl watching TV, but by the time we left, around 8pm, it was almost completely full. Of Thais, I might add, although they seemed to have won the hearts of the local cops too. My fellow diners are big Sripraphai fans and the summary of our experience was that Sri is probably still the one to beat. That said, Zabb delivers the kinds of flavors you simply don't get in Manhattan or Brooklyn Thais, at least none that I've encountered. It's up there. We started with a plate of Thai sausage, which was pleasantly porky but not a standout; a decent som tam with salted crab, though the crab was a flavor component rather than something visibly present in the dish. I was a bit disappointed as I was hoping for the fermented river crab som tam I ate in Bangkok. Obviously a different dish. Our mango salad special came with an unadvertised but totally delicious smoked fish topping, a curious ingredient that was wispy thin and moving (but very much cooked) when it was served. I've had that fish once before in a Japanese restaurant. Kind of freaky, but delicious. Contrary to Banquo's experience, we found the catfish salad a standout appetizer. It was plenty fiery and dressed with a liberal hand. But sucking limey fish sauce through crispy fried goodness is the whole point of catfish salad, I think. A whole crispy fish with chilli came adorned with glass noodles and was both crispy and succulent. Drunken noodles were very comparable to Sri's. The crispy pork with broccoli (ordered for a bit of respite from the heat) was serviceable but I'm not such a fan of this dish. Zabb is BYOB which makes for an extremely reasonably priced meal. It's small and economically furnished and feels about as comfortable as Sri was before the renovation. All in all, a welcome addition to Queens' Thai hegemony. They're open until 2am which is a pleasant counterpoint to Sri's frustrating 9pm cut off. I'd love to hear what others think.

Is fatback just pork fat? Or is there more to it? Is it just for sausages or are there other applications?

I grew up eating Alpen and still do from time to time. For me the distinctive taste comes from the addition of powdered milk. Don't ask me why they add it but I'm pretty sure it's in there. Come to think of it, I've always felt Alpen has a creamier taste and mouthfeel than other muesli.

I live in Brooklyn and I, for one, would schlep further than this for something even close to San Francisco's Ferry Market. That place is amazing. Of course the real issue would be getting the right purveyors in there. Hope it happens.

Ellen, I've never come across blackened onions. Can you elaborate?

Daniel, wish I saw your question earlier today..... Bacchus is solid French bistro food, excellent value (meaning cheaper than you might expect rather than transcendently great food). I probably ate here six or eight times when I lived in Cobble Hill. The moules frites are good. The boudin noir is good with mash and apple sauce. The proprietors are cheerful and it has a pleasant vibe. Most entrees are in the teens. Quercy is a more ambitious place, with prices to match. It's a lot more serious and restrained, and attracts an older crowd. It's often quieter than Bacchus. They do a great duck confit and cassoulet (about $23 if I remember rightly). I've liked their skate and dauphinois potatoes. They do a good prix fixe lunch of two courses for about $12. Better wines than Bacchus. I'm not a fan of Tabac, though many seem to be. It's fun for a drink and the staff are great but I don't think the food quality is even close to the other two. At the risk of offending half the borough I'd classify it as 'good for Brooklyn'. Also worth a look: Chestnut, a modern kind of spot with emphasis on seasonal ingredients. Up there with Quercy price-wise. Some find it a little stark. They serve good pickles with your bread! As someone else posted, Taku is very good for intriguing (non-sushi) Japanese. Only went once as I've moved out of the neighborhood, but I'll be back. Never been to Smith Street Kitchen. Edited 'cos I can't string a sentence together sometimes.

Maybe we have different methods but I cook the rice first and allow it to cool (or use leftover rice, obviously). Then I fry garlic and bacon or ham or sausage (whatever) and tip the rice into the hot, garlicky oil and toss it around to heat through and brown a bit. Then I add fish sauce or soy, stir through and finish with scallions. (Some people add eggs to the pan before the rice but I prefer a fried egg with a runny yolk as a last minute addition.) I like a squeeze of lime, cucumber slices and fish sauce with chillies as accompaniments. What's your method?

Thought I'd let you know dinner went well. I ended up making a simple chicken liver pate and serving it with melba toast, cornichons and balsamic onions. The centerpiece was a mammoth pot of beef (chuck and round) marinated for 24 hours in red wine and aromatics, braised for about four hours and finished with orange juice and zest. They finished the whole pot! Alongside I served sweet potatoes pureed with reduced apple cider and ginger, pan fried polenta cakes, sauted wild mushrooms with gremolata and a big old green salad. Bought dessert in. The stovetop worked pretty well in the end. I didn't get away entirely without smoke as the polenta cakes needed to be fried at the last minute, but I really wanted something crisp. Thanks to all for the suggestions!

I've been flirting with getting a new stove and have been doing some research of my own. If there's one thing I've noticed it's that few brands are without detractors entirely. Almost every brand has its contingent of haters. It also seems that the pro-style ranges, while clearly offering great functional benefits like BTUs, might end up being less reliable overall. Which is very disappointing when one is dropping that kind of cash. That said, I wonder whether forums, which are essentially qualitative in nature, are a good means of assessing quantitative factors such as reliability? I mean, if ten people have a bad experience and choose to post about it, what does that really prove? I don't doubt that Viking, Wolf and DCS are great fun to use (and look at) but I'd love to know whether statistically they do break down more often. I guess another variable is the whole service experience: ease of getting parts, finding service people to work on them, getting work done under warranty, etc. Just thinking aloud...

Superb tips, all. I should say these guys are not big eaters portion-wise but they will certainly appreciate the effort. So I'm thinking of just a few dishes but I want them to be great. Daniel, your Italian feast has much potential. Another route I had been considering was Osso Buco with a risotto, maybe saffron? Or braised lamb shanks. Not being a big braiser I was concerned about using the stove rather than the oven. The oven just seems like it would be a more even source of heat. Note to self: check out the braising thread...

Yes, I have made things difficult for myself but I kind of like the challenge, you know? I guess I am leaning towards a braise, and a beef in red wine kind of deal could be great. On the other hand I was thinking Indian could work too, maybe a biriani and/or a curry, some spiced okra or spinach... I have a tiny toaster oven (forgot to mention that) so I guess naan could be warmed there. Come to think of it, how does the toaster oven change things? And thanks for the ideas, keep 'em coming!

I've talked myself into cooking for my in-laws (eight of 'em) this Saturday night. The oven has since been pronounced broken beyond repair, leaving only the stove. As we'll be eating right next to the (open) kitchen, and I don't have a vent, and don't want to have windows open while we eat (it'll be freezing) I'd prefer not to generate too much fatty smoke, which kind of rules out seared/fried preprations. Dad doesn't eat fish and as the family are Jewish I'm going to avoid pork (dad eats pork chops in restaurants, but that's another thread). All of which brings me to my question: what the hell am I going to cook? Some of my logic so far: Make stuff in advance (but I don't want to serve cold food in December); stovetop braise; other one-pot dish; grill on the deck (but worried about acquiring charcoal at this time of year); fondue...

Isn't it tricky to get charcoal this time of year? Or do you stockpile it year round?

Sorry if this is old news but according to the Times, Simpson was convalescing in the south of France after a heart attack brought on by the stresses of running Jefferson and the '40 teaspoons of butter' he was ingesting each (day? week?) in the course of tasting his dishes. (Is this normal?) Anyway, as a long time fan of Jefferson I wish him all the best with Jefferson Grill and look forward to checking out the new menu.

Many excellent reccommendations here. If you haven't already done so, you can explore NY menus (Manhattan at least) on menupages. That might help you narrow down your shortlist. I like: Casa Mono for tapas, though some find the room too tight. I think it's especially good at lunch and fun to sit at the bar. Definitely Katz for NY's best pastrami and a window into a bygone NY era. Breakfast is always fun at Barney Greengrass if you are on the upper west side. I always think it is to smoked fish what Katz's is to pastrami. Check out the NY Pizza survey for a good pizza joint: NY pizza is truly exceptional if you experience one of the greats. If you're prepared to leave Manhattan, my vote goes for Franny's (dinner only) and Grimaldis (lunch and dinner). Grimaldis can be combined with a pleasant walk across the Brooklyn bridge and finished with excellent ice cream across the street. Franny's is perhaps ten minutes further than Grimaldis if you take a cab. DiFaro is the best of all but too far and too few local attractions to recommend for someone with two days in town. Though it may not be quintessential New York, I'm a huge fan of Five Points for classic American cuisine, utilising local ingredients and a wood oven to great effect. Savoy fits the description I've given of Five Points too, sans wood oven. But smaller and more intimate. The chef, Peter Hoffman is an exponent of greenmarket cooking and it really shows. Public is a great space and showcases very innovative cooking. Like Savoy and Five Points, there's something here for the unrepentant carnivore (that would be you) and your wife's more measured tastes. Lastly (though I could easily rattle off another twenty recommendations) I suggest checking out Hearth, for seasonal excellence; Jack's Luxury Oyster bar, for a one of a kind restaurant, great food and wine and absolutely no elbow room; and Pastis or Balthazar, for an epic Paris-in-NY style brasserie. Prune is innovative and low key and offers a brunch the like of which you'll find nowhere else. Their five kinds of bloody marys will help smooth out the morning after too much wine drinking! Pearl Oyster bar or Mary's Fish Camp (I prefer Pearl) are top seafood choices, if you dig the upscale New England seafood shack vibe. Having written this, I notice that, Balthazar and Pastis notwithstanding, many of my favorites are smaller places. Your tastes may differ. To help further, tell us about the kind of restaurants you enjoy. How important is decor? Are you looking for classic new york or just great food that could happen anywhere? Do you enjoy (or run screaming from) a 'scene'. What can't you get in Toronto that you'd like to explore?

Mango is great with smoked foods. Try a sandwich of smoked chicken and sliced mango with a herb mayonnaise. The trick is to balance the sweet and savory flavors. Raisin/walnut bread is great if you prefer to lean sweeter; a poppy or sesame crusted loaf takes you in the other direction.

I'm reviving this thread as y wife has made us reservstions here for our anniversary. Has anyone been? Is this a good/bad idea? What's worth ordering?

Wish I read this thread before heading over to Rickshaw... I too was underwhelmed. I found the place modern and pleasantly designed, if a little more chain-like than I had anticipated. I suspect Ms. Lo has big plans. The counter service was brisk and the dumplings came out quickly. They were out of the 'watermelonade' which had seemed such a natural choice in the 90 degree weather, so I took the offered green tea milkshake ($3.50). On a Tuesday lunchtime it was busy, with a line and nowhere to sit. Had to slurp my soup standing up for five minutes or so. In the end the dumplings were a disappointment. I tried the 'classic' pork and chive with ginger and scallion, steamed, and (optionally) served in a clear broth with scallions and Shanghai noodles. I found these dumplings adequate but uninspiring. And perhaps a little heavy on the chive-scallion combo. The broth tasted of powdered bouillon and the noodles were overcooked for my liking. While it is perhaps an unfair comparison, all I could think of was the comparative complexity of a good Pho, or the noodle soups at GNYNT. $4.95 for six dumplings and $3.00 additional for the broth. Because I am incapable of ordering a single dish, no matter how large, I also picked up six Peking Duck dumplings with shredded cabbage and scallion, fried, with a hoisin dipping sauce. I found the duck a little mushy, almost pureed, and the hoisin too sweet. Don't get me wrong - how bad can a fried, Peking Duck filled dumpling be? But after Fried Dumpling and assorted other C-town alternatives, I think I may be ruined for a place like this. Shame, cos I was really looking forward to it. Oh, and green tea milkshake? Bad idea.

Thanks Pumpkin Lover. I actually meant a grocery store type source to buy noodles, but Eastern sounds interesting. May have to check that out!

Can I revive this thread? Any more good noodle recommendations? And does anyone have a good source for fresh rice noodles?