bleudauvergne
-
Posts
3,278 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Store
Help Articles
Posts posted by bleudauvergne
-
-
Abra, my first thought would be to warm it and use is as a base in a vinaigrette. The juice is going to be pretty salty, so whatever you finally do with it will have to take the saltiness into account. Beautiful pate.
Looking back on your pigs foot idea, I had an idea about 4 years ago to do a terrine with them. Pigs feet have a great gelatenous quality that really makes for great shape and texture. However I must warn you that the flavor of pigs feet does not, in my opinion, stand on its own in a cold dish like a terrine. Being a cold dish the actual pigs trotters should acutally be one interesting element in an otherwise complete palette of flavors that you make up with, as Moby suggests, mushrooms in season, spices, a liberal addition of chopped poitrine, Maybe another meat to round out the flavor.
I would love to see the results of your experiment! -
Lets see. When I press my terrines before chilling, I usually press out a good bit of liquid runoff which does contain a significant amount of melted fat. I do not notice, however, fat in the bain marie. Is your terrine bubbling over the sides? The texture of my terrines never seems to suffer at all from the loss of fat when pressed.
-
Lovely website and the recipe sounds fabulous, but what kind of zucchini do you have in France? Your squash flowers are much bigger than mine. I am using an Italian vareity of seed, but I would love to know what is being used where you are from.
Well, I can ask what kind they are growing, I purchase my flowers at the market, they vary in size. Many recipes I have found in French call for smaller flowers, so I would not be too upset about having smaller flowers. Asking at the market about what varieties they are growing - I have to warn you that I most likely will not get a definitive answer. We might call in Ptipois to see if she has any answers to this question.
-
I like 'em.
In fact that center spoon is actually very cool. I think that I would dispense with the spoon on the left and exclusively use the dessert spoon and the one in the middle. -
Sorry to be neglectful.I notice that the little fruits attached to the blossom have a 'flowery' taste, which comes out especially when baked until very soft, or on second day. I chose the baking method initially because in my experience I had some disasters and can't seem to get consistent results when I fry them. I know it has everything to do with my inability to keep the oil at the right temperature. My ventilation system is not what it should be either. The oil usually goes up in smoke and ends up everywhere.
The next recipe I am going to try is one by a chef here in Lyon. He fills them with a stuffing containing cracked bulghur, herbs, etc. and nestles the flowers blossom side down in a dish - just before cooking he adds meat stock and covers tightly. This is done with the male flowers.
-
Lucy, that looks marvellous! How did you cook them?
They're stuffed with available summer veggies, herbs and cheeses, John. It's an old standard in my kitchen notebook. I put them in a 200C/400C oven for a half an hour and voila, served over some slow melted peppers and onions, it's lunch. We've done this with both a tangy aged chevre and younger, milder cheeses, and also with fresh farmer's cow cheese, and the milder cheeses balance better with the rest of the flavors. I would even go as far as to recommend Philadelphia cream cheese for a recipe like this. Around here the flowers are only at the markets for a week or maybe two. I have always stuffed them this way but this year I think I am going to be trying out a slew of new recipes.
Hey I have a question! I read in this topic that some are partial to the male flowers, which are the ones without the fruit. Why? Do they taste better? I have always chosen the female flowers, just because I feel they make a better presentation at the table with the pretty fruit and all, not differentiating them on flavor. Should I be choosing the male flowers at the market? There's always a mix, and the male flowers cost 10 centimes less...
-
-
We had fleurs de courgettes for lunch today. I used goat cheese but also agree with Adam about tangy goat cheese and its effect on the balance of the dish, it should be a very fresh mild cheese or even fresh farm cow's cheese in my opinion.
-
Here's a bleu question. What I love is a ripe Bleu des Causses, Valdeon, Cabrales, the really pungent ones. A bleu that's mild, or even really creamy, just doesn't speak to me the same way as the more wham! pow! bleus do. What other bleus do you all think I might like?
Well, Abra, a very good pungent bleu from France is your average classic Roquefort. I have an uncle from the town of Roquefort who advises that the best one to get is Papillon brand. It's quite common here but a great classic bleu.
-
One of the great things about French cheese is that there are so many kinds that you can always discover something new. One of the great ones I have discovered this year is the Rouelle Cendrée.
It's a goat's cheese that is best once it has had a chance to soften and liquify ever so slightly just below the surface of the ash covered crust which has developed its delicious crust enough to ripple and buckle. The day I discovered this cheese was a very happy day for me.
-
Hmmm. Very nice idea, a cheese thread. Just plain cheese from all nations. I salute you.
Bring on the cheese! -
Saveurs No. 148 - May / June 2006
Amuse Bouches
La Chronique de Vincent Noce: Ferran Adria is the source of our calling into question the culinary codes. Passing fashion or real changes?
Agenda: Cherry Festival, 25 June, Cherry festival in the Roman quarter of d’Escolives-Sainte-Camille (Yonne) (info: 03.86.53.37.56). Floating Market, as part of the Amiens Festival, the floating market takes place like in the olden days. 18 June, Amiens. (info: 03.22.71.60.50). Red Berry Festival, 2 July, Noyon. Demonstrations and plans for making your winter conserves. (info: 03.44.44.21.88). Escargot Festival, 17-18 June, La Riviere-Drugeon (doubs) (info: 03.81.46.48.33) Bordeaux Wine Festival, 29 June –2 July, Bordeaux. (info: 05.56.00.66.00 or http://www.bordeaux-fete-le-vin.com). Southern Cheese Festival, 4 June, Rocamadour. (info: 05.65.33.22.00).
Epoque: Traveling taste: a huge truck, fully equipped, circulates in the Paris region with the goal of educating young gastronomes. In structured classes, the young people learn about labels and quality standards, taste samples, etc. with the goal of turning young people to the vocations that the food industry offers. Meals are prepared by students in the traveling kitchen for visitors. La Vignery: A wine club where each event features 5 different vignerons presenting their wines, representing all of the wine regions throughout the year. They provide a venue for groups to set up and have their own wine club meetings. An Anthropologist revealed at a recent colloquium his theory on the five types of female home cooks: The Traditional (19%), having learned everything from her mother, who takes pleasure in nourishing everyone in her entourage with simple fresh products, The Recalcitrant (19%), who takes no pleasure in varying her diet and eats the same thing every day, The Relaxed (24%), who feels just as comfortable in the kitchen cuisine as in the bath, and feels no hesitation to enthusiastically experiment with foreign ingredients and ideas, the Hostess (14%), who excels only when in the public eye, making an effort only on special occasions and for guests, and finally the last, The Perfectionist (24%), who is a big reader of food magazines to achieve what her name suggests to realize a high quality, varied cuisine, always pushing her level of expectations. Is it possible to fall into only one of these categories? I suppose we could add The eGullet type (81%) of cook (and this applies equally to males and females), sometimes traditional, sometimes relaxed, a real perfectionist that excels even more when cooking for friends and therefore will often make any excuse to turn an average day into a special occasion!
La table du mois: Mori Venice Bar, 2, rue du 4-septembre, 75002 Paris. 01.44.55.51.55. Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday. Continuous service from 12h-16h, 20h- midnight. Carte: 40 – 100 €.
Valeurs Sures: Paris 6eme : Jacque Cagna, 14 rue de Grandes Augustines, 01.43.26.49.39 Close Sat. Lunch, Sun., Mon. Lunch. Menus 42-90 €
Haut Rhin : Les Armes de France, 1, Grand-rue, 68770 Ammerschwihr. 03.89.47.10.12. Carte 35-40 €
Table dedicated to Wines: Le jardin d’Ausone, 12 rue d’Ausone, 33000 Bordeaux. 05.56.79.30.30 Closed Sat. lunch, Sun., Mon. lunch. Menus 35-75 €
Paris 5e: Mavrommatic, 42 rue Daubenton. 01.43.31.17.17 Closed Mon. Menus20-30 €, Carte 40-60 €.
Luberon: Maison Gouin, Place de Marché Paysan, 84660 Maubec-Coustellet. 04.90.76.90.18 Menus: 13-33 €. Closed Sun. & Tue.
Plein Nord: La Barbue d’Anvers, 1 bis, rue de St.-Etienne, 59800, Lille. 03.20.55.00.68 Closed Sun. & Mon. Carte: 35-45 €
Paris 15e Le Bistrot de Cancale, 30 blvd. De Vaugirard. 01.43.22.30.25 Closed Sat. lunch, Sunday, and Mon. dinner. Menus 19-23 €. Carte: 26 €
Rouen: le 16/9e, 30, rue Socrate, 76000 Rouen. 02.35.70.63.33 Closed Sun., Mon. Menus 15 €, 23-29 €.
Paris 17e: Miss Betsy, 23, rue Guillaume-Tell. 01.42.67.12.67. Closed Sat. lunch & Sun. 27-31 €
Rennes: La Coquerie, 156 rue d’Antrain, 35700 Rennes. 02.99.38.05.55 Menus 33-74 €
List/chart of addresses in Istanbul…
Recevoir:
Pique-nique party. 13 recipes to fill you picnic basket. (Photos: Valéry Guedes, Recipes and food styling: Valéry Drouet.)
- Tarte a la carotte et au comté
- Cake vert
- Salade de melon à la badiane
- Salade de pomme et avocat au crabe
- Soupes glacées et jus de fruits frais
- La salade de pâtes qui change
- Financiers aux framboises
Invitation: Design & Provençal. In the heart of the Luberon, have lunch in a pretty provencale home, restyled to contemporary tastes. (Text: Jean-Pierre de Lucovich, Photos: Sabine Leroux.)
- Noix d’agneau rôties à la sarriette
- Sablé auc figues et sirop de sangria
- Œuf mollet pain frotté a la tomate et poutargue
Menus:
Variations Saisonnières. 6 inspiring recipes to bring fantasy to your Sunday dinner table or anytime during the week. (Photos: Laurent Grandadam, Recipes and food stylist: Valéry Drouet.)
- Marmelade froide de lapin aux oignons confits
- Salade fraîche de fenouil et haddock
- Poitrine de porc grillée au miel et aux épices
- Filet d’agneau rôti au citron confit
- Petites crèmes aux framboises
- Cerises au vin et romarin
Portrait: Alberto Herraïz: This Spanish chef has been able to find a balance between creativity and simplicity to bring out the excellence of the products of his country. (Text: Emmanuel Jary, photos and food stylist: Marie José Jarry.)
- Crème catalane
Gourmet: Onion or Shallot? Irreplaceable playing a supporting role in almost all of our recipes. What happens when they take the spotlight? (Text: Sophie Brissaud, Photos: Jerome Bilic, Recipes and food stylist: Lissa Streeter.)
- Oignons rouges farcis aux blettes
- Salade de riz, haricots de soja et pickles d’oignons rouges
- Focaccia aux oignons et à la sauge
- Vichyssoise d’oignons et langoustines
- Mini toasts aux échalotes confites
- Bœuf-carottes en brochettes salade de ciboulette
- Brochettes d’oignons grelot au maquereau
Top of the Shopping Basket : Mozzerellissima . Moving, precious, succulent: Mozzerella di buffala, the one, the only, is a real poem in itself. Discover… (Text: Aymone Vigière d’Anval, Photos: Jacques Caillaut, Photos and food stylist: Marianne Paquin.)
- Mozzarella à la tapenade, tomates et basilic frits
- Beignets de mozzarella au basilic
- Emincé de fraises à la mozzarella et sirop de basilic
Voyager
Autre terre: Monténégro. On the shores of the Adriatic sea, this little country of a thousand faces and cultures seduces travelers in search of authenticity. (Text : Emmanuelle Jary, Photos : Laurent Grandadam, Stylist : Gilles Poidevin.)
- Brochettes d’encornets farcis aux crevettes
- Palourdes a la Buzara
- Gâteau au fromage frais
Ici et la : Saint-Jean-de-Luz. Between the sea and the mountains, France and Spain, it’s Saint-Jean-de-Luz that makes the heart beat with the sparkling brilliance of the Pays-Basque (with carnet de route and list of adresses) (text: Dominique Lesbros, Photos and stylist: Marie José Jarry.)
- Risotto de Chipirons
- Rémoulade de crabe en gelee de bisque
- Tarte crémeuse au mamia
Autre terre : Les Pouilles : At the tip of the Italian boot, this unknown and preserved region shows it’s difference, with a breath of anticipation, Lecces la blanche. (with carnet de route and list of adresses) (Text : Vincent Noce, Photos : Jacques Caillaut, Stylist : Marianne Paquin.)
- Spaghetti aux oursins
- Carpaccio d’ananas à la Grenade
Wine : Pouilly-Fuissé : In the southern Bourguignon, the appellation Pouilly-Fuissé possesses an exclusive grape, the chardonnay. Discover this elegant white… (with tasting notes of various wines and carnet de route) Text : Aymone Vigière d’Anval, Photos : Valéry Guedes.
Cuisiner
1 product, 1 recipe. Doucer d’oranger
Deliciously perfumed, orange flower water has the finesse to take us back to childhood. (text: Dominique Lesbros, Photos: Fabrice Veigas, Recipe: Corianne Bonnet-Morin, Stylist: Han Waiche.)
- Brioche a la brousse et fleur d’oranger, compotée de cerises
L’atelier de goût : Eat and Drink – Syrups.
In the hot days of summer, when fruits and vegetables are also thirsty and also call to be plunged into bouillons or syrups. (Photos: Julie Mechali, Recipes and Stylist: Géraldine Sauvage.)
- Nage de petits pois et asperges
- Melon au sirop d’orange
- Minestrone de kiwi, mangue et avocat
- Peches à l’infusion d’hibiscus
Two recipes from a beginner. Empty cabinets, limited imagination, here are ideas for a quick easy fix. Tested and approved! (Photos David Japy, Stylist: Corinne Bonnet-Morin, Recipes: Marine Labrune.)
- Salade de fèves à la menthe, copeaux de speck grillé
- Linzer Torte
Corks and Carafes : Coté caves. (Text: Aymone Vigière d’Anval.)
Flasks and Ice Cubes : Coté Alcools. (Text : Pierrick Jegu.)
Selected recipe cards (from bulleted recipes above).
(please PM bleudauvergne with typos)
- Tarte a la carotte et au comté
-
Super Carolyn! Great to see you found some nuts!
Also, I didn't allow any air circulation last year and mine ended up a very deep nut brown, like an Oloroso sherry. So you want it to be actually black?Last year my batch was in a very wide bowl that I kept uncovering. It turned as black as tar. Also remember that I used very little wine last year so it was more of a liqueur. In reading the topic up to this point, my thought was that the exposure to some air (but still covered most of the time to keep dust and insects out) made a difference in the color turning very dark. I'm also pretty sure I used black walnuts. I think that the alcohol content had something to do with how dark it gets as well. I still used lots of vodka this year, it will pack a punch. The idea is to make it significantly more alcoholic than wine and for it to taste light and warm and nutty. Hopefully this year, having put about 3/4 bottle of wine into each jar, at least the light will penetrate through and it will also be a pretty drink.
-
I went to all the farmers markets in nyc today and no dice
Don't worry, I missed the window two years ago and it made last year's result that more satisfying. There's always next year.
-
If you didn't know it was in there, you could not discern the maple syrup, but it added a beautiful complexity to the finish. There are many versions (some quite expensive) of vin de noix on sale in the specialty shops here. Last year I caved in and bought a top notch "haut gamme" bottle so I could see how well the home made version compared. I subjected my friends and family to blind taste tests and the home made version was clearly superior. When I tasted them side by side, knowing what was in mine, my guess was that the maple syrup made the difference.
This year my big experiment is vin de noix instead of a stronger liqueur, and to use instead of the star anise, a teaspoon of szchuan peppercorn in each jar. In my cooking experiences with it in the past, I discovered that long cooking with it adds a floral element to the dish. This time I'm counting on that, hoping that the long maceration gives a similar effect.
Oranges instead of lemons, cloves instead of cinnamon.
I quadrupled my batch, and divided it into 6 1.5 Liter jars, following Abra's example. I think that the mason jars are really great because the vin de noix needs some air circulation to get that nice dark color. By not using the rubber gaskets, I allow just a little bit of air in, and in a few months time I can seal them off for as long as I want before I strain them and (this year) put the vin de noix into gift bottles.
Per 1.5 liter jar:
About 8 nuts each jar
500ml vodka
2/3 cup grade B maple syrup
1/3 vanilla bean
2 cloves
1 t. szchuan peppercorns
2 slices of an orange
top off with a full bodied white burgundy (Bourgogne) wine (used 5 bottles to fill all the jars to the top)
Speaking of gift bottles, has anyone used any pretty ones they can post in this thread to give ideas? Ideas for labels?
-
I urge you to try adding maple syrup to one batch this year, Abra.
-
Abra, very good idea, the big mason jars. How many nuts did you put into each jar? Are you using the same recipe as you did last year? Can you give me a rundown on what went into each jar? Last year the one big batch was difficult to handle at certain stages.
Not sure if you missed the window, Luckylies, I picked up some nuts at the market a couple of weeks ago, I really thought I was too late too. There may well be a tree with green nuts somewhere waiting for you to claim them! Carolyn, did you get a batch put away this year? -
Sarabeth, this looks like it was a wonderful event. Thank you for sharing your photos with us.
-
A pleasure to read. I wonder if he really meant that about the puree recipe...
Link to discussion about the puree recipeAgain I'm so happy you asked about that!
-
I have always considered Dorade to be a kind of snapper. But then again I learned many of my fish in French. Anyway when I cook english recipes calling for snapper I always look for dorade.
-
Fish tonight for dinner!
I enjoyed reading the exerpt. Thank you! -
My first iced coffee was ofered to me by my big sister, when I was 17. You know how those things go, your older siblings try things out first and pass it on to you. She had a nice house with a pool. I remember the day quite well, heat wave, and she invited me to come for a swim. Just me and her.
I'd just begun college and was scraping by and didn't even have a decent bathing suit but my sister lent me one and had a lounge chair waiting, and she offered me a tall iced coffee. Actually it was before the days I ever even drank coffee in the morning, and I never would have thought of having anything like that.
My sister had this thing for chickory flavoring in her coffee, and every time I have a chickory flavored coffee I remember her white marble kitchen and the coffee maker heaving chickory flavored steam.
She handed me a thick sweet milky iced coffee and we sunbathed by the pool. On that afternoon we slathered expensive lotion on our calves and relaxed by her pool, and I pretty much came to the conclusion that that iced coffee was the nectar of the gods and that I had reached full fledged adulthood.
-
All good eating!
Are you gutting and filleting these fish as part of your stage?
How are they cooking them?
-
That's quite a life change, Lori. Thank you for sharing it with us. Do you have to struggle to keep weight on, or is your main concern just choosing the right kind of food to ensure that you don't end up with a stomach-ache? Why do you have to take the blood tests? To make sure you don't develop a deficiency?
eG Foodblog: Fat Guy - A Normal Week
in Food Traditions & Culture
Posted
I am over the moon that you and Ellen are blogging! I was especially pleased to see that you have PJ started with a program to get him used to French food early. Great job.