ewindels

The New York Times published a recipe for Amazon Cake some years ago, which I found on this web site. I speak from experience that this is really a quite marvelous cake considering that it has no dairy at all. Be sure however to use really good quality cocoa -- Hershey's won't cut it. This works amazingly for vegans, lactose intolerants, and sundry fusspots.

Daniel, was there just last Monday, July 24, and also a few weeks before that. Is the oven out? You could have fooled me -- everything was wonderful. Which I suppose means it's back in swing.

My last visit to Landmarc, some weeks ago, was a little irritating: a burger requested medium-rare came out like a brick, and in a rare move for me I actually sent it back. Also the first three bottles I requested were not in stock -- three, no less. Service the last few visits has been perfunctory at best, lacking the inviting and personable warmth that was one of the prime reasons initially that made Landmarc such a worthwhile trip. I think my slight disillusion results from both sides: a levelling off (if not actual decline) of standards and bloom that is inevitable with almost any restaurant, particularly one who's prime mover is probably never there owing to the massive project at the Time Warner building and a second property in the city, and me just having gotten used to it and finding nothing new or invigorating. Landmarc remains a fine and reliable restaurant, but as far as I can tell the wine list has not changed since they opened (or at least, very little), and while it remains revolutionary, I personally wish they'd shake it up a little. But on those crummy nights when you really need something reliable, an order of the foie gras, a steak, and their wine policy combine for an experience that's hard to beat.

Cookshop is, far and away, my favorite NYC restaurant currently. There is a warmth and invitingness, coupled with consistently superb cooking, that reminds me of the early (and sadly departed) days of Landmarc, but with a slightly more inventive menu and more polished execution. That coupled with the superb wine list makes it the tops. I could rant on for pages about the incredible dishes I've had there, but rather than wasting your time reading about it, get your tuchus down there. Now!

This latest addition to the Chelsea dining scene is housed in the space formerly occupied by Chelsea Commons on the corner of 10th and 24th. The overall vibe – space, service, atmosphere, food – is spare, formal, quiet, sleek, and slightly cold. Bare brick walls are complemented by polished, minimalist maple built ins. The anorexic looking staff communicates in hushed tones and glide about noiselessly, but are nevertheless adroit and polished. At 7PM on a roasting Saturday night, we were one of only four groups in the restaurant, although the small bar up front was seeing a little action by the time we left. There’s also a teeny sedate garden space in back that, when the temperature becomes less infernal, would probably be lovely. Tables are teeny, and as gorgeous and generous as the water carafes are, there really isn’t room for them on the table amidst everything else. This needs to be rethought. The food is – if you’ll pardon a posting pun – not much to write home about. New York magazine’s blurb a few weeks ago quoted chef-owner Ralf Kuettel as “not sure what to call his menu, which reflects both the time he spent cooking at restaurants like Union Square Cafe and his idyllic Swiss-farm-boy childhood. But it’s chock-full of all sorts of Greenmarket touches and gastropubby delights like pork-shoulder crepinettes and roast lamb saddle with bacon sauce. And as everyone knows, everything’s better with bacon sauce.” Well, of bacon sauce (which has was eager to try) there was none, nor had the staff any idea what I was talking about, and our waiter even evinced the just barely perceptible whiff of disdain at the idea. Then again, it would probably not have been a good match for the fine saddle of lamb, cooked perfectly medium rare. Also fine were my terrine of oxtail and rabbit, and my friend’s Bibb lettuce with buttermilk dressing and lardoons. His pork chop, however, was noticeably over salted (too long in the brine?) and overcooked – our table nearly suffered some damage as he tried to saw his way through the thing. I have a beef with the menu stagings at places like this, though, which is the extra charge for side dishes. And yes, I’m aware this is all the rage, but like the current administration, that doesn’t make it right. $6 each for miniscule platters of green beans and a form of spätzle gratineed with gruyere and onions is a little much on top of the already $20+ each for the entrees, which came respectively with three roasted carrots and a teeny heap of wilted mustard greens. Denizens of the neighborhood – particularly the latest ones – no doubt think nothing of this. That also doesn’t make it right. Dessert was a blueberry tart no more or less remarkable than you would find at most of the patisseries in the city, and the blueberries were the big bland kind, which seems a shame when proper, wild blueberries with actual flavor are readily available at the greenmarkets (I got some myself that very morning at Union Square, and they were deeeeeeeeeeelicious). Four each of red and white wines are offered by the glass, and I heartily commend the restaurant’s practice of pouring an initial taste, which allowed me to switch from a surprisingly thin syrah/mouverdre blend to a more robust rioja without incurring charges. With one cocktail and glass of wine each, an appetizer and entrée each, a shared dessert and tip, damage came to $83 a person. Not bad, although overall not quite worth the quality we got. Certainly not a place that anyone needs to run to. If this place can last till all the Highline construction is completed and all the extremely wealthy residents thereof arrive, it will no doubt do fine. But I personally prefer the more robust and inviting atmosphere and cuisine of either the Red Cat or, especially, Cookshop (my current favorite NY restaurant).

Spontaneous visitors, take note: the place is experiencing spot unannounced closings for reasons they wouldn't specify. E.g. yesterday at 4:30PM they were closed, hoping to reopen in time for a 6PM dinner crowd. This included the shop and the restaurant. Call before you go.

Just got back from a terrific week on Nantucket, and am very grateful to everyone for their suggestions. General impressions from a novice: - Overall, very expensive, but this has to be expected where almost everything has to be brought in and most restaurants are only open for the season. Winelists in particular gave us some good laughs. - An emphasis on high-end presentation and concepts, but not quite so much on overall flavor (at least, to my taste). And like their counterparts in so many urban centers, including New York, the locals at the places we visited seemed more interested in the presentation and concepts than in the actual taste. I got the sense that the locals are not real adventurous, but could be wrong. - Seafood was a little disappointing (I had better scallops by far at Cookshop in New York than any of my three attempts on the island). I guess I had visions of roaringly fresh stuff just off a boat that day, which I gather is not the case. - Blazers seem to be as mandatory as the shingles on the houses. I hadn’t brought one, so of course felt naked and scorned. Here’s where we went: STRAIGHT WHARF: Despite this less-than-happily named property for those of us of alternative lifestyles, this is a charming restaurant right on the wharf in town center with a view of the water. Food overall was OK, if not quite living up to the standard one expected from the décor and the service, (i.e. stuff was a hair overcooked and bland). The prices on the wine list could induce thrombosis, but the very personable sommelier, Scott, managed to dig up a lovely Viognier for $50 that was not on the list, so it always pays to ask! Apps and entrees each, a shared cheese plate, and that Viognier came to $90 a person. TOPPERS AT THE WAUWINET INN: We walked in and walked back out. This is the highest end (some might say stuffy) restaurant I’ve been in in a while – I almost expected gloves to be required, to say nothing of jackets. Prix fixe started at $85, without booze, and from glancing at the wine list just one glass would have easily brought this to $120 - $130 per person. Just didn’t seem worth it, so we wound up at…. SFOGLIA: Loved, loved, loved this place. Charming and quiet, terrific authentic Italian food, a reasonably priced wined list, excellent bread. Two courses each and a bottle of Primitivo cost us $55 a person. Our favorite lower-end restaurant. WATER STREET: Brand new on South Water Street, this small restaurant looks wonderfully attractive from the outside till you get inside amidst the slightly oppressive mud-colored walls (some serious redecoration ought to be considered here). The food however was quite good, if not amazing. Sad to say I can’t even remember what we had, except for my lamb, which was expertly cooked. A starter and entrée each and a shared desert with three glasses of wine cost us $90 a person. THE ICE CREAM STORE ON BROAD STREET: Blech. Is this really what passes for ice cream on Nantucket? Someone out there could easily wipe up this market. AMERICAN SEASON: Our favorite higher-end restaurant. Charming and intimate, largely candlelit. World-class cooking that could hold its own anywhere. Excellent bread, especially the poppy-seed baguette which rivaled anything I’ve had recently. Our respective starters of tuna and scallops were, as mentioned above regarding the seafodd, kind of bland, but were inventively handled. My friend’s salmon could have used a touch more salt for my taste, but my wild boar chop was roaring with flavor and expertly cooked. I would have paired it with some grits or something other than the crunchy rice cake it came with, but those are minor complaints. The Mexican chocolate tower was superb, and the impressive list of half bottles offered up an excellent Syrah and Voignier, both very reasonable. $110 a person. Fans of Chanticleer will be happy to learn that this ‘Sconset property is to reopen this summer under the aegis of the proprietors of Black Eyed Susans (which we sadly never got to). And Fahey’s on Pleasant Street has a small but nifty selection of proper cheeses. Next time (and I really can’t wait), I look forward to trying some of the less pricey places (I was dying for a burger by the time we left), plus return trips to Sfoglia and American Seasons.

Couldn't agree more about the wine: makes or breaks the dish.

I'm sorry to see that this thread has gone moribund, as lovage has been one of my favorite recent discoveries and harbingers of spring. Sadly, for us urbanites, it's tough to come by (at least in NYC), which is why I tend to grab it as often as it shows up at the Farmers Markets. Favorite recipes: - Lovage potage - Chicken liver and lovage stuffing - Lovage, asparagus, morel and fresh shell pea risotto Gulleters, share yours!

My personal favorite, essentially based on Mario Batali's all-purpose slow braise methods: - Brown the beef in olive oil in a dutch oven, remove - Briefly brown a tablespoon or two of tomato paste till dark and fragrant - Add chopped onions, celery, garlic and carrots, brown long and thoroughly (with fresh or dried thyme if you have it, also parsley) - Mound the vegetables, place the meat on top, add enough full-bodied red wine to come nearly to the top of the meat, salt and pepper. - Cover, braise in a low temperature oven for as long as you want (at least two hours). - Remove the meat, let the remaining material cool to warm, then blender the whole mixture until smooth. Best. Gravy. Ever. - Serve with lots and lots and lots of mashed potatoes. As mentioned above, it only gets better in the ensuing days. Has anyone tried brining the roast? Does it make a difference?

John, any opinion on Cinco? It's listed on Opentable and the site looks very snazzy.

So, would Nantuckelleters still agree with these recos? I will be on the island the third week of June, and need suggestions, please!

Great experience at August this past Saturday night. An announced wait of twenty minutes was happily reduced to ten, which left me time to toss back a glass of cava and marvel at the coordination of the three tiny disparate kitchens. Not much to say about the look of the place. Those with a dislike of tiny, noisy places should avoid the busier hours or the place altogether. Service was impressively smooth and unobtrusive for such a cramped space. Loved everything we had, starting with the garnacha, which had a real upfront bite to it. The tarte flambee is perfect, as was a salad of shaved white asparagus and celeriac in a lightly zesty dressing. The meaty halibut was perfectly cooked, as was my bavette de boeuf. The frites I ordered could have been a little darker for my tastes, but were nonetheless crisp and delicious, particularly with the accompanying house-made mayonnaise. We finished off with perfect profiteroles. $75 a person with tax and tip. Highly recommended, especially on an unexpectedly blustery spring night.

As a long-time devotee of Landmarc, I was really looking forward to my first visit to Ditch Plains (last Friday night). Cute space, makes the most of its limitations. And fellow devotees of Landmarc will take it for granted that the quality of the food for this price point is quite high, just as one would expect from Mr. Murphy. Based on numerous recommendations, I had the fried clams, which are a severely hefty portion for one person, but would make a nice small-ish starter for two people. Beautifully and crisply fried. Then the grilled salmon, very plainly and cleanly done, no muss no fuss, served with mixed leaf lettuce so well known to Landmarc regulars. The yellow cake with ganache frosting was superb, and something that should seriously be added to the menu downtown! That said, I have a few caveats: - Was served and fed in 30 minutes flat. Three courses. Yes, you need to be very clear if you don't want all your food delivered at once. - A fellow sodium lover like weinoo, I found both my clam strips and the dressing on the lettuce accompanying my salmon noticeably oversalted. - The music is too loud. However, as management pointed out, playing acid rock and heavy metal softly defeats the purpose. - The wine list is a fraction the size of Landmarc, due obviously to the space limitations. With a half bottle of the Pascal Jolivet Sancerre and tip, $70. Apropos the discussions above about the prices, it bears remembering that Marc has a great deal downtown on a much larger space, whereas Ditch Plains is about 1/4th the size and probably considerably more expensive rent-wise. Obviously this affects the price point all around, and that's the fact of life in Manhattan. Notwithstanding I'm looking forward to going back with a group and essaying a broader scope of the menu.

Dined here last Thursday, and have to agree that it's fine, but no great shakes. Mind you, I've never been to Alsace, so I can't comment on authenticity or comparisons. And it doesn't seem fair to mention Soltner in connection with this modest little boite (as has been done by the press). It's a perfectly decent neighborhood joint, the kind of place I wouldn't mind having in my area. I was mightily impressed to observe a well dressed, willowy blonde of a certain age packing away an order of choucroute with gusto, sauerkraut and all. Three of us split a tarte flambe, which was fine. Beet salad and a frisee aux lardons were both very nice, particularly the latter even without the egg. My ballotine of duck also very correct and satisfying. I also had the Baekhoffe, which was also probably very correct, but to my taste kind of dull: not great quality chunks of lamb stewed with sliced of potatoes and carrots and leeks in a dull broth. At an Alsatian chalet in winter with a hearty burgundy and a roaring fire, this would probably make a better impression. At a bistro in New York, it was kinda anh. A companion's steak frites also didn't make much impression, the fries in particular being of the flaccid, flavorless variety so ubiquitous in New York currently. A special fo short ribs were by far the best, accompanied by truffled celeriac puree. A special dessert of rhubarb tart with meringue was an unhappy mess, the pastry tough, the rhubarb lacking in flavor and the whole thing dissolving into mush after two forkfuls. I split three cheeses with a companion, all fine but not particularly outstanding. Two bottles of a red from the Bandol turned out to be a little more than we needed, but got polished off nonetheless. Just under $100 a person (note however the four apps and two bottles of wine). Service was fine, if a little slow, even early in the evening. My only real complaint was the size of the tables, which are far too small: we had to stash a third of our materials at the table next to us (mercifully empty). Even for two people this table wouldn't have worked properly and we were three! If you live in the area, it seems like a perfectly fine place to visit on occassion. If you don't, I can't say it's worth making a trip for. But people who've actually been to Alsace might feel differently.

Neither would I, but it definitely has a view.

The lobby of the Mandarin Oriental on the 35th floor of the north Time Warner center tower has a spectacular view across Central Park South and the park, and they have a full bar menu, including lots of whizzy colored cocktails. The roof of the Gansevoort hotel also has a bar, but this gets very crowded and sceney, and not in a good way. Amazing view across the Hudson, though. Brandy Library is a gorgeous place, and well worth a visit for novices and connoisseurs of brandies, cognacs, and the like. But definitely no view. Ditto for Bubble Lounge. Pegu sort of has a view -- but with what they offer, who cares? Both New York Magazine and citysearch? have listings on such places, if you want to browse.

Devotees of serious frites, sing hallelujah: the Grail has been found. Hie thee fleetly to Sascha on Gansevoort Street, where paragons of the genre are being offered at a new bi-level bistro headed by Sascha Lyon, formerly of Pastis. These absurdly crisp, dark golden treats brought both Sam Kinsey and me to speechlessness – no mean feat on either part. These suckers are being fried at least twice if not three times, and if not in beef tallow then an amazing substitute. Not since Tartine first opened have I had frites this good, and Sam likened them – wholly complimentarily – to McDonald’s in the ‘70s. The downstairs casual space is reminiscent of Pastis, but lacking the ubiquitous subway tiles is somewhat warmer and more convivial. The upstairs space is well designed and attractive, although some of the tight table spacings are going to prove challenging, even for the anorexic types who make up such a large portion of the area’s population. Shades of Balthazar, there is a small bakery next door, but as of last night they hadn’t a huge amount to offer besides some cupcakes, muffins and breads. Service was smooth, expert and unobtrusive. The menu upstairs, where we ate, is described as bistro / new American. Long it ain’t, though what it does offer is pretty varied. The tiny bread basket holds nothing stellar. The apps and entrees lean more towards the bistro-side. The plates de fruits de mer seemed real popular, based on the non-stop parade of them that sailed by our table all night. Sam and I stuck to the terrific, house-made charcuterie plate and a plate of “crispy shrimp”, oddly metallic tasting jumbo shrimp wrapped in shredded phyllo dough, flash friend and served with an unremarkable curry mayonnaise. Short rib carbonnade was luscious and rich, and came with a big dollop of stoemp that made the side of potato gratin I ordered extremely superfluous, although it sure was delicious. Sam’s NY strip steak seemed fine, although we both agreed that you can get almost equal quality at Landmarc for significantly less money (more than $30 at Sascha). But boy howdy do those frites make the price worth it, and any condiment would an insult – these were made to be savored on their own, unadorned. The new American aspect shows up on the dessert menu, comprised of sundaes, layer cakes, and similar soda-fountain treats (including egg creams, lime rickies and, amazingly, phosphates, whatever those are – new thread here). We both felt that $7 for a single scoop ice cream sundae was a little much, though the ingredients were all superb and you really didn’t need more after what we’d had. Two wine lists are available, essentially one of bottles less than $100 and the “reserve” list ($100 or more, generally a lot more). From the former we chose a very good garnacha for $32. With a drink each to start, tax and tip, the damage came to $195 for the two us. Fine as the experience was, I can’t say as I’d run back, especially at that expense. The menu offers nothing out of the ordinary or remarkable, and while I realize that rents in the area must be astronomical, the prices struck me as somewhat exorbitant (none of the entrees are less than $23). And there are a few minor kinks to be worked out, particularly the ventilation system, which kept a significant breeze billowing through the room the whole time we were there; the weather proofing of the windows (make sure you don’t sit next to any of them, at least on a cold night); and the sepulchral lighting in the men’s room. Then again, those frites are a reeeeeeeal temptation….

My first visit to Onera last night left me somewhat underwhelmed. The decor has certainly improved since the old 222, although a few patches of unfinished paint job along the ceiling are altogether too noticeable in a space that small. Service was fine, although our very young and I suspect novice waiter hovered far too much, as did the busboys eager to yank away our plates the minute we looked like we were done. It says much for the cooking that we denied them this pleasure in order to sop up the left over sauces with the bread that was graciously replenished – although it also says much for the dainty portion sizes that we both required so much bread to begin with. For $12 I got two teeny sweetbreads the size of standard marshmallows – beautiful, but somewhat miserly. My companion’s octopus salad, though, was a revelation – I would happily go back just for that… and then down to Nice Matin for a burger. People who think they don’t like octopus should be sped without delay to Onera and made to sample this spectacular dish. My veal and his lamb were both fine, if not remarkable. Likewise the selection of cheeses from across the three genres offered. The glass each of sparkling wine and the bottle of red we had (one of the very few selections available for less than $50) were both disappointing. The $185 for the two of us did not, I feel, quite match the quality of what we got. Overall, Spiga is doing much the same sort of thing -- in terms of menu, if not presentation -- but, in my opinion, at a higher level and considerably lower cost.

What a nifty addition to the 'hood! Small, crowded and noisy in a jovial way, the people are excited by and love what they're doing, convivial atmosphere. OK, cutting to the chase: this is some seriously ambitious food, particularly for an area where Celeste remains the standard by which Italian shops are measured. The beef tartare millefoglie is a particularly high-tone dish for what would appear to be a simple trattoria: 2 parmesan crisps layered with luxurious beef tartare studded with black truffles and topped with a poached quail egg. Luscious. The zucchini timbale was more simplistic and earthy but no less rich and satsifying in its spicy tomato sauce. Same for the mushroom and gorgonzola cheese lasagna: utlimate cold weather comfort food, and terrific even though it wasn't cold weather. My cocoa gnocchi with wild boar and porcini ragu needed a touch of salt to bring out the earthy flavors. This isn't a dish you'd want a lot of, but boy was it tasty. For dessert we split the white chocolate souffle with julienned radiccio in balsamic vinegar sauce. This is one of those interesting desserts that I'm happy to have tried once, but don't need again. It's actually a small white chocolate gateau on a bed of julienned radiccio with the sauce. I look forward to trying the other options on the dessert menu next time. They could offer more wines by the glass, although the Nebbiola I had was luscious, and my friend was perfectly happy with this chardonnay, and in gratitude for our highly vocal enthusiasm of the food we were each comped both a glass of limoncello and prosecco. Total came to $70 a person. Absolutely worth the visit, even eating at the tiny, cramped bar.

This place was not nearly as bad as I was expecting from a) the less than enthusiastic reveiws and b) other BRG properties, to say nothing of the hoardes of trender wannabees crowding entryway bar. The noise level was not as deafening as at similar spaces, and the food was more passable than I anticipated -- but not more than passable. I find it hard to believe Ripert has actually set foot in this place. Details of our meal would be kind of pointless and not very interesting. Everything was decent, the chacuterie platter particularly so. The salt cod fritters were way too salty for my taste. The white sangria was quite pleasant, and the Rioja we ordered was admirable. The fish entrees were severely overcooked and mushy. The crème catalana and the other dessert were forgettable. What exactly it is people get out of these restaurants, I don’t know.

It’s nice to know that the Times’ restaurant reviews can have some beneficial effects, despite the chaotic state to which their rating system has degraded. Case in point is Compass, which when I visited last week was packed with Bruni-inspired visitors, clutching their list of approved dishes to essay. Best of all was that the staff seemed genuinely happy for the place to be getting the recognition it deserves. This has still got to be one of the best deals in town, particularly the prix-fixe, from which I ordered the absurdly succulent short ribs atop a bed of macaroni gratin – oh so wrong for the waistline, but oh so right for a cold night. This was preceded by their chestnut and white truffle risotto: do you really need me to tell you how superb this was? My aunt raved over her lamb three ways, her enthusiasm entirely justified by the miniscule sample she deigned to part with, and her starter salad was just as good, even if I can’t remember what it was. I’d asked for a slice of the chocolate gateau with a candle to celebrate her birthday. I’m not sure what turned up, but I’m pretty sure it wasn’t chocolate gateau. It certainly had potato chips in it, another of Fraser’s quirky touches like those white-chocolate-covered pork rind mignardises, which are still there, still strange, and still entirely successful. And not only is the wine list impressive, but this has got to be the best and most extensive list of wines by the glass in the city (except maybe for Cru where I still haven’t been!). Forgive me for being gratified if the sommelier heartily agreed with my selection of Malbec for our meal – I don’t remember what it was, but boy howdy was it tasty. The overall warmth of the staff and excellence of the cuisine more than makes up for the still awkward setting. If you haven’t been recently, make a point – this is a terrific place to spend a cold winter evening.

Thanks for all the tips, folks (particularly Matthew!). Though I'm not looking for amusing meals, I'm looking for good ones. Amusing I can get anywhere, but as this may be my only trip to India, I want to squeeze all I can out of it.

I will be in Mumbai from Nov. 12 - 17, and was planning to wander up to Rajasthan (Udaipur, Jaipur and Delhi/Agra) afterwards. Aside from a small amount of obligatory sightseeing (e.g., the Taj Mahal), I need lots and lots of suggestions on food-related places to visit, wander through, try, etc., particularly restaurants! My tentative plan is the nights of Nov. 18, 19, 20 in Udaipur, the nights of 21, 22 and 23 in Jaipur, the night of the 24th in Delhi and back to the States early the 25th. Bear in mind that I'm going in to this totally blind, so people should feel free to make any and all suggestions, although I don't particularly want to be in a different location every night (too much bother). I'm looking to do some sightseeing (particularly temples), some shopping (antiques only), and as much food exploration as possible. Thanks in advance!

What a happy surprise, on my third visit to this troubled tenacious property since it opened, to find it’s fourth chef in three years making this a destination to visit as often as possible. Chef John Fraser has done stints at Taillevant and the French Laundry, and the seriousness of his background showed throughout an overall excellent meal. Sure I have a few quibbles. (What would an egullet review be without them?) The place was too cold, even on a painfully sweltering evening. The amuse – a microscopic curl of flavorless smoked salmon – was kind of pointless. (This is true of all too many amuses around the city these days, a gimmicky gesture which I doubt rarely impresses even novices any more.) And my companion’s monkfish was unpleasantly watery and limp in the center, suggesting a recent and poorly planned stint in a freezer. But these minor issues aside, the overall experience was terrific. The service was lovely and polished, and the staff is clearly happy to be involved with quality food. The full menu can be seen here. The summer corn risotto, topped with a positively obscene shaving of summer truffles, is a dish of such exuberant luxury as to make your eyes cross and tempt to you cancel the rest of your order in favor of repeats of it. I’m glad we didn’t, because I would have missed out on the truly delectable (pace Martha) Berkshire pork three ways: a moist, succulent sliced loin, a small heap of Carolina pulled pork, and a sinful block of braised bacon. For all it’s peculiar texture, my companion’s monkfish was actually pretty tasty, especially with its mild curry sauce. Better yet are the 45 different and excellent wines offered by the glass (for those of us with delicate livers or imminent performance at Lincoln Center, neither conducive to getting a full bottle). Tempting as much of the dessert menu was, we trusted in our waiter’s recommendation: a plate of tiny balls of lightly fried pate choux filled with a Earl Grey tea-tinged ganache, polished off with a pot of passion-fruit scented green tea and a plate of excellent mignardises, including a bizarre but oddly successful pork crackling covered in white chocolate (I know, sounds weird, but it really works). $65 a person, including tax and generous tip, for one shared app, two entrees, one shared dessert, one glass of wine each and the pot of tea. And absolutely worth it given the quality of the overall experience, especially the food. I was sad to note, however, that the place was barely a quarter full, while Café Luxembourg next door, whose popularity remains something of a mystery to me, had a line to get in. This is due, no doubt, to the revolving door problem Compass’ kitchen has had since it opened, and also to the room itself, which, with its slate pillars and post-Munch red panels on the wall, is not exactly inviting. This is a real shame – other than Nougatine, I can’t think of another restaurant of this caliber at this price level within 20 blocks of Lincoln Center. Regardless of what you may have read, or personally experienced, Compass is definitely worth revisiting.