Revallo

behind the boq. on c/ elisabets... right next to the camper hotel... (where the old ¨foodball¨used to be)

This Monday Euro-Toques and Slowfood will be conducting a two day conference. Guest speakers include Luc Dubanchet, Davide Cassi, Harold McGee and Albert Adriá among others. More info at Diálogos de Cocina

The mangosteen is one of the only fruits we eat before it fully ripens, as it begins to ripen the seeds start to form in the larger segments. Normally the smaller segments to not contain seeds. You could make the puree with the smaller ones and with the larger segments cut the flesh away from the seeds. In India I believe the seeds are roasted and eaten.

I posted your question on the Molecular Gastronomy Discussion List the other day and here is what they came up with.

I was there on Monday; we watched the elBulli presentation as well as Andoni and Charlie Trotter. Ferran started by explaining his philosophy on the books and documentation of elBulli. The way of photographing everything from the new products that comes in to the restaurant to each step of the new techniques. Also he presented the new book 2005 and a "molecular gastronomy" glossary that was published by elBulli and Alissa, a public laboratory that will be opening this next year. He showed a few simple techniques such as using a juicer, as well as a few plates from 2005. Charlie Trotter and Andoni did a fantastic presentation. Trotter started by explaining the Caesar Salad, its history and how it is classically prepared. Then went in to telling us how he would serve it today in his restaurant in 2006, by deconstructing it to its bare elements. The romaine in to a creamy green sauce that serves as base of the plate, garlic prepared 3 ways, the eggs in to a creamy meringue, the popular technique of cooking an at 62 degrees centigrade, and then rolling it in crumbs of brioche. This was the first time I have seen Trotter presenting, and he really made me proud to be an American working in Spain… Andoni went through the philosophy of his restaurant, to me it is very similar to Michel Bras by the use of herbs, and how deeply integrated the restaurant is in nature. And also a few of the new techniques such as using the essential oils of plants and herbs. He took basil and deconstructed it in to 5 different aromas, each one different. But together they are the complete basil aroma. I only have Sunday and Monday off and for this I was able to get down to Barcelona…

The secret to Rafa's is simple. He only buys the best fish he can find, normally line caught. If he can't find what he likes he won't open. While I was living in Roses I ate there once a month, to see the variety in the season of the sea. After you eat at Rafa's fish will not be the same. You will always find defects in the fish you will eat in the future, whether if it was overcooked, a little old, maybe the fish drown in the net and even though its the same sea bass you ate at Rafa's its a world apart. By only having four tables he can ensure that what you eat is of the best quality possible. Here are a few photos of Rafa's in the summer of 2005 Start with an anchovie from roses y pan con tomate and a white wine from Penedes These are tallerinas, he cooks them on the flattop with olive oil and sea salt. When we go, normally we get two plates of these. For me, the calamari is the single best plate at Rafa's. They are hand caught and are not cleaned. You eat them as they come out of the sea, with its ink, its eyes and brain. The most incredible thing I have ever tasted. Tuna. The first and only time I have eaten fish with butter here. Normally he uses only olive oil and sea salt.

The chickens are about 1 year old when they are slaughtered. As for thier diet, I was told they normally hang out by the compost piles and hunt for worms. Grain is also provided, but they prefer the lettuce from the compost. I will post some pictures of the woodcock (becada) soon. Unfortunently they are not allowed to be sold on the menu but are made for family and friends of the restaurant.

I believe that grain is provided for the chickens but they normally eat bugs and worms. I am not sure of the age they are slaughtered, I am in Italy now and will return next week. Bux, the breast meat is slightly darker then the normal chickens, it is the legs that are the real difference. They are dark closer to the bone but lighten after it is cooked. I will get more information on the chicken when I return to Spain.

Go to Rafa's, it will change your life RAFA 972 25 40 03

What I actually meant by wild was that these birds are of such a high quality that they could be mistaken for a wild animal with thier dark flesh and thick skin. When I first cleaned one of these birds last year I had a hard time believing this was a chicken. Growing up in the US I developed a strong dislike for chicken and the dried Thanksgiving turkeys.... But to me there is such a strong diference between these chickens and the chicken I remember as a child that there should a different name. Also wild could be used to describe the taste and texture of the meat. Its not unlike grouse, not as tender as you would think but has texture of well aged red meat.

The day before the birds go in the ground. The slices of truffle are slid under the skin. Stuffing the birds with the truffle mixture Bon Profit!

Bux was right classically it is poached in a light broth. But Josep Maria prefers to slow roast it in the oven. He was telling me about when he spent a winter in Vermont when he was in his 20's he learned how to make a traditional American Stuffing with butter and bread crumbs. At the restaurant we add a lot of grated truffles as well. It is fairly new, I believe this is the restaurants 4th season.

I have returned to the Pyrennes and I am living in a small village called Puigcerda on the french Boarder and I am working for the second winter for Josep Maria Masso. I am going to explain a traditional technique for preparing chicken in the winter in the Cerdanya Valley. The chickens from Pages are an extordinary animal. Not your typical ''Free-range organic chicken'' these chickens are wild animals. The chickens are hung in our walk-in for about a week to dry out a little and concentrate the flavor of the meat. Slices of black truffles are inserted between the skin and meat of the chickens. They are as well stuffed with an mixture of bread crumbs foie gras, milk and black truffles. The chickens are then wrapped in linen. On the morning of Christmas Eve, we drove them to a forest where truffles grow. A whole is dug and in go the chickens. They will stay here for 2 weeks. Depending on the tempurature. (0 - 4 degrees celcius) A little cava for good luck! This is a very old recipe that has been practiced here in the Pyrennes. It was believed that when you rebury the truffle in the ground it will continue to release its perfume in to the meat of the chicken.

You can try Kokotxa, its a new up and coming restaurant in the parta vieja. The chefs name is Danny. He speaks good english as well. Here is the address: Kokotxa Campanario, 11 Tele: 943 42 19 04 Restaurante Kokotxa

Orial Castro is responsibilile for the creativity and experiments that take place in elBulli. He and Ferran are the only ones in the kitchen in the mornings, along with two stagiers helping set up the kitchen and to get what ever else they need. Dishes change and come and go daily, based on when the product is at its peak.

There is an amazing restaurant just north of Cadaques, it is called Cap d´Creus. It is in the middle of the Natural Park and is right on the sea. I go there every Tuesday as it is my only day off. The sardines and red mullet are amazing and about a quarter of the price of Rafa´s. There is an Indian chef there as well and makes a very nice curry. I will post the address and phone number soon. Also if you find yourself craving pizza in Roses, Tramonti is one of the pizzeria´s I have been to. But don´t take my word for it, the Italians I go with say the same.

I came to work here for a few days last year. There is not anyone from the UK yet... more stagiers will arrive in July when we are open seven days a week.

I suggest the person who might know is Harold McGee himself. The e-mail address given on his web site to contact him is harold@curiouscook.com. As for translations of the 1984 edition, you should be aware that the 2004 edition is considerably larger and contains not only revisions to information in the 1984 edition, but whole new sections. It really renders the earlier edition obsolete. ← Yes I have the 2004 edition.... I was looking for it in Italian for my chef de partie....he speaks good english but I think he would get more out of it if it was in his language. Thanks for Mr. McGee´s email. I will let you know if I find the new edition in other languages.

I have been searching for Harold Mcgee´s book in other languages. Does anyone know if it is yet avalible in Italian or Spanish? Thanks.

Chloroplastik, yes the ravioli is extra virgin olive oil with a small amount of the seaweed gelatin, not agar-agar but a different variety. The main reason it is white is because after it is put in the siphon it turns it in to more a less a foam. The tiny air bubbles that you can´t see are what make it the white opaque shade.

Bux, Yes each table gets the same menu, but if it is your first visit to elBulli you will get about 5 more courses than a table that has visited the restaurant in the past few years, Chefs and cooks will also get a few more courses. When Rafa comes in the end of the season he get about 50 courses. And we keep the fish alive untill he is at the table. Chloroplastik, Esparragos blancos al aceite de oliva is one of my favorites as well, The esparragos itself is arrives every two days, it is one of the most prized products in the kitchen. The gnocchi is made with the same technique as the melon caviar, (the seaweed gelatin and calcium chloride). When you eat these two together the gnocchi "pops" and releases the olive oil to mix with the egg yolk and esparragos. For me, this is a fantastic dish and it is so simple. What did you think about the omelette surprise 2003? this week I had to go in 4 hours earlier every day to make the "yuba" it is the skin that forms on top of the milk after it is heated to 65C. Then it is filled with the yougurt foam and finished with carmilized sugar.

If you have any questions on the ingrediants or procedures in any of these dishes I will try and help. I have just begun my stage at elBulli and will be here untill October. The dishes at my station that night were the ravioli de mantequilla, esparragos blancos al aceite de oliva, and sesos de cordero con erizo de uva de mar, (there are more but everyone that eats there gets a different menu, even on the same night). Most of the dishes (about 60%) come from the pastry side of the kitchen and I am not completely familiar with all of these dishes yet.

Thanks I think I will go to Josepmariamassó cuiner tomarrow and see what they have to offer.

Thanks for the info, I haven´t heard of the restaurant but it seems worth a try. Hopefully I will find something with in the town of Puigcerda, since I have a nice place to stay. Thanks again Judith.

I have just moved to puigcerda and I am currently working in a small tapas bar. I was looking for a restaurant to work in and I couldn´t find any other posts on puigcerda. I don´t really have a preference on the restaurant, I am just looking for somewhere relitivly creative, and a good place to learn, it also needs to be walking distance from town (unless I hapen to move). If anyone has any ideas, I would really appreciate it. Also if any of you happen to be in the area, perhaps we can meet up for a drink or a couple of plates.