John Talbott

I am probably way behind in finding this on the European Gourmet site and it is probably well-known by frequenters of the South, but there is a guide in French and English of 800 places and 500 products written by Jacques Gantié called the Guide Gantié , 22€ that thery highly recommend.

Of course, as my mother would say, you're both right. But when I think of SW I do think of foie gras, ducks, geese, gibiers, etc and Cahors and when I think of Basque it's cod, squid, fish soup and Irouleguy along with all those wines with unpronouncable names.

This is from last October (2005) I might add that Demorand again mentions Le Cape in this month's Regal that Lucy refers to in her Digest with a recipe - Cabillaud roti, sucestte d’encornet de La Cape, à Cenon.

Ah Pierre, that is precisely our experience. Too bad really. For a year when he opened and a year until now it was great. But I guess he cannot resist bumping the price up and reducing the choices. I just looked back at my "reappraisal" post and ironically it was almost precisely a year ago.

Yes it is. And Le 19 is at 19, descente de la Halle 05.34.31.94.84

March 2006, One new one – “L’histoire de...” And lots of old ones: Drouant, Ze, Cerisaie, Repaire, Bistral, Anges, Pinxo, Thierry Burlot, Au Bon Accueil, l’Ecaille de la Fontaine, Maxan This month, Colette and I did our traditional dining binge with friends from downstairs. The only new/changed place eGullet member Paga and I tried was: 5.0 L’Histoire de…, a ten year old place, walking distance from home in the 18th, at 14, rue Ferdinand Flocon, 01.42.52.24.60, closed Sundays, lunch menu at 29 € and a la carte about 35 € (our bill was 72 € at night.) The place has had a tough decade. It was started by two established chefs who cooked great stuff, then one departed (don’t ask, I dunno) and his name was blacked off the menu; then just a few years ago I went alone and thought that the remaining guy was tired and he and his equally fatigued wife needed to move on. They did. And now, for 18 months, a new young chef and enthusiastic young team moved in and what a renaissance. The amuse bouche was a lovely creamy, smooth chicken liver spread with a parmesan “biscuit;” then we sort of shared a green salad and huge mackerel on top of shaved carrots and an onion compote, then veal with anchovy sauce and a trio of duck (untraditionally confited, force meat-stuffed cabbage and almost raw inside/burned outside magret – perfect) and all accompanied by a plain old 18th Arr. Bordeaux Superieur from the Chateau Senailhac. Otherwise we ate at ‘golden oldies” to be categorized as follows: “Holding up” Drouant, Ze Kitchen Galerie, La Cerisaie, Le Bistral, Les Anges, Le Repaire de Cartouche, l’Ecaille de la Fontaine “Inconsistent and troubled/troublesome” Pinxo, Thierry Burlot, Maxan. “Off the list” – Au Bon Accueil. Some explanation. Thierry Burlot looks like he’s up to his old tricks (bumping up the prices by having “more interesting” (read cheaper) wines unavailable and cutting down the choices on the menu (“the delivery guy didn’t show up” excuse can only be used so many times); Maxan, after several independent visits, when it was impressive, seemed boring, flat and without character and Pinxo seems to have run out of tricks – the chipirons and duck breast were OK but the scallops were off. Au Bon Accueil, was always off and on, maybe it was just off that day, but no more chances with that poor quality fish product and tired mashed/smashed potatoes. À Avril (Until April).

The Week of March 20th, 2006 Monday, in Le Fooding, Elvira Masson wrote up a new place, l’Altro which she calls New York meets Milan. Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Philippe Toinard wrote up “Tables d’hote,” those communal eating places (without ratings): l’Auvergne Gourmande, Granteroirs, Granterroirs bis + les Domaines qui Montent, 22, rue Cardinet in the 17th, 01.42.27.63..96, formula = 13 E, 136, bvd Voltaire in the 11th, 01.43.56.89.15. Wednesday, in Figaroscope Emmanuel Rubin’s “C’est Nouveau” gave the lead, photo but only one heart to Royce, 3, rue des Saussaies in the 8th, 01.43.12.82.00, closed Sundays, running 45-50 € a la carte for leeks with langoustines, endives with ham and gratinéed macaroni {that I guess he wrote up because it’s owned by Chelsea footballer Claude Makelele} and 2-hearts and the same sized photo across the crease to the fashionista “branché-chic” 40 BC, 40, ave Pierre I de Serbie in the 8th, 01.47.20.77.77, open evenings from 8-12 PM costing 80-90 € a la carte for a shrimp salad, foie gras and pop-corn {I kid not; called “snob food” [sic]}, over-cooked cheeseburger with wagyu (Kobe style) beef and chocolate mousse that wasn’t mousse but was very chocoletty, and three other one-hearters – an Italian place Les Vilelloni in the 3rd, Le Beau Vin, 7, rue Prouvaires in the 1st, 01.45.08.04.10, open everyday for about 25-40 € a la carte for a dozen snails with blah butter, over-cooked shrimp a la plancha and classic entrecote, and La Lilote, 24, rue Bosquet in the 7th, 01.45.51.78.82 closed Saturday lunch and Sundays serving sautéed calamari and beans, dull lamb with curry and a moelleux of chocolate for 25-40 € a la carte (menu=33 €.) {After that, the Figaro gang (Colette Monsat et al) came alive and gave grades to many new places this season.} The “Dossier” listed (no number = no rating): Stars Gaya Rive Gauche Alain Senderens Bistronomic Carte Blanche La Ferrandaise Ripaille Gastronomic Drouant 7.5/10 Mori Venice Bar 7 Seafood Bar Prunier 7 144 Petrossian 6 Il Cortile 6 Relais du Parc 5.5 Jarrasse 5 Muses de l’hotel Scribe Assiette de Lulu Bistrots Les Symples de l’Os a Moelle 7.5 Aux Zingots 6.5 La Table de Claire 6 Chez Cecile 6 Temps Libres 6 Chaumette 6 La Table de Marc Labourel 5.5 Table d’hote de Caroll Sinclair 5 Le Garde Robe Jules Carpediem Fils de la Ferme Neo-classic l’Escale 6 Fontaine Fiacre 6 Le Diapason 5.5 Namiki 5.5 Ivory 5 La Table de Michel par Fabrice 4.5 La Cave Lanrezac 4 Les Rochons 3.5 Foreign food l’Osteria 7 Old Jawad 6.5 Le Cesar 5.5 Kil Son 5.5 Moussa l’Africain Le Pizzetta Tine II Mosca Libre Gadgety-Trendy La Gazetta 6.5 40 BC 6.5 Le Parc 6 Vog en Scene 5.5 Royce 5.5 Pena Festayre 5.5 Habemus Papam 5 Sensi 4 Jet Lag Chacha DS Café Enfants Gates Litchi Bar Bazar PM Café And always Unclassifiable Transversal Cosmopolitan Kai Fogon Food-Business Sens Steak & Lobster And just open l’Empire in the 8th la Casa Palenque a Mexican place in the 11th La Tavola and l’Italian Lounge in La Defense la Villa Pereire in the 17th le Cou de la Girafe’s Gregory Coutanceau leaves after three months Chez Claudine in the 9th gets a good new chef from La Cuisine the Costes Love hotel opens a resto in the 9th the Costes and Bruce Meritte open a resto-bar in the 8th a tea salon open in Bonpoint in the 6th Babette, a creole place replaces Jamin And in April-May Chateaubriand reopens in the 9th under Inaki Aiziparte an ex-Camdeborde turns the ex-Fogon space into an innards’ place Chalet Daumesnil is restored in the 12th Even later Gilles Choukroun maybe opens a new place L’Os a Moelle II is rumored to open a resto will open in the Museum of Arts Deco. Finally, Francois Simon reviewed Chez Cecile aka La Ferme Des Mathurins, coordinates given before, which he calls a “drole-kitsch,” a lumbago of modernity, smacking of Ferran Adria and Simenon, serving dim sum like bar, {well, you get the picture}. He paid 142 € for two that included a 60 € Bordeaux and two 12 € glasses of St Joseph and says give the guy a chance. Wednesday, Zurban’s guest critic Pierrick Jegu devoted his major space to a review of l’Escarbille in Meudon, which he called impeccable {but given the schlep by train (only 4,10 € RT) I think we’ll wait to say more until other critics have commented.} The restos in the casserole were the Asiatic Chez Duc, in the 2nd, the Italian bistro La Baracola in the 11th and Gregory Coutanceau’s (see above) latest venture – l’Escale, 71, ave Paul Doumer in the 16th, 01.45.04.12.81, closed Mondays, with a lunch formula of 23 € and lunch menu at 29 €, a la carte minimum 35-40 €, a “yachting” style fish place serving smoked salmon, oysters and a risotto of penne. Thursday, an unsigned column in Le Figaro entitled “Last Minute” announced that the chef (Jean Francois Sicallac) was leaving la Tour d’Argent one month after it lost a second star. Jean-Claude Ribaut, in Wednesday/Thursday’s Le Monde discussed the history and secrets of making blanquette. Thursday in Le Point Gilles Pudlowski covered the waterfront with his enthusiastic review of Les Zingots coordinates above, an old-style brasserie run with finesse, beautiful wines, a nice ambiance and good prices; declares Chez Géraud one of the best bistrots in Paris and says that the brasserie Le Relais Plaza is at the summit of its art; but declares the Guy Savoy annex, Atelier Maître Albert, in trouble with its insipid snails, dry veal, oversalted chicken and too creamy tart. He devotes much space to a homage to the Eternal Tour d’Argent saying shame on the Michelin, long live it and saying it’s still seductive with the power having passed (see above) to the #2, Stéphane Haissant, ex-Guérard + Senderens. His product of he week are truffles from Pebeyre in Cahors and he gives a recipe for raviolis with cabbage, foie gras and truffles. He glorifies several places in Belgium: the Sans cravate in Bruges, Belga Queen+ Bon-Bon in Brussels. Thursday, in l’Express Jean Luc Petitrenaud reviewed A ma vigne in Lyon and La Remise in Antraigues-sur-Volane. In addition, Marie-Dominique Lelièvre writes a “Portrait” of Rougui Dia, the chef at Petrossian. Friday, Jean Louis Galesne in Les Echos, reviewed several places in Sancerre, notably La Tour, La Pomme d'Or, Le Laurier, La Côte des Monts Damnés + Le Lièvre Gourmand. Saturday, in Figaro, the entire page was devoted to things Toulousien pegged apparently to the First International Meeting of Gastronomy, but translated on their website as The Feast of World Gastronomy, March 27-29th , that Toulouse’s #1 chef – Michel Serran – is hosting. First, Fabrice Trossero has a profile of Serran. Then, Francois Simon’s “Croque Notes” dealt with a riff on him starting with Gault Millau’s 10th commandment in 1976 to innovate something every day and questioning whether someone like Serran meets or fails the test of creating rather than copying (in addition, he does give a nice mini-review to La Cuisine in Paris’s 7th , coordinates already given, which he says he’ll go back to.) Then, however comes the main course, a test of the best restos in Toulouse, with the team declaring that the top five were: Michel Serran, Les Jardins de l’Opera, La Rotisserie des Carmes, Le Mas de Dardagna + Le Mauzac. Their classification of the top twenty is highly detailed and I will give only the score (1-5 out of 5) of the food and the price-quality ratio and the total (1-20 out of 20): Michel Serran 3.5 3 15 Les Jardins de l’Opera 4 4 14.5 Rotisserie des Carmes 3.5 4.5 14 Le Mas de Dardagna 3.5 3.5 14 Le Mauzac 4 4.5 14 La Corde 3 4 13.5 Le Cantou 3 3 13 Emile 3 3 12.5 Atmospheres 3 3 12 Le Pois Gourmand 3 3 11.5 Le 19 2.5 3 11 Le Cosi Fan Tuti 3 2.5 11 Le 7 3 3 11 Le Japan 3 2.5 11 l’Empereur de Hue 2.5 2.5 10.5 Le Met 2.5 2.5 10.5 Chez Carmen 2.5 3 10.5 Le Bouchon Lyonnais 2 2.5 10.5 El Pescador 3 2 9.5 Le Velane 2 2 9 The weekend FT had an article by Jancis Robinson entitled “Has the fizz gone out of champagne?” Finally Sunday, Bonjour Paris had two articles, one by Margaret Kemp entitled “Gerard Depardieu Buzz” about the man and his restaurant La Fontaine Gaillon and one by John Talbott entitled “The hot new quarters – the 3rd and the 15th.” Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Saturday-Sunday's Figaro has an article on p 38 with lots of ratings. I'll be posting the summary on the Digest in the next 48 hours. ← At the risk of double posting but to make these results more easily searchable, here is the essence of the weekend's Figaro, devoted to Toulouse, apparently pegged to the First Feast of World Gastronomy, March 27-29th. The Figaro staff rated the top twenty restaurants as follows: first food, then price-quality, then total (1-20 out of 20): Michel Serran 3.5 3 15 Les Jardins de l’Opera 4 4 14.5 Rotisserie des Carmes 3.5 4.5 14 Le Mas de Dardagna 3.5 3.5 14 Le Mauzac 4 4.5 14 La Corde 3 4 13.5 Le Cantou 3 3 13 Emile 3 3 12.5 Atmospheres 3 3 12 Le Pois Gourmand 3 3 11.5 Le 19 2.5 3 11 Le Cosi Fan Tuti 3 2.5 11 Le 7 3 3 11 Le Japan 3 2.5 11 l’Empereur de Hue 2.5 2.5 10.5 Le Met 2.5 2.5 10.5 Chez Carmen 2.5 3 10.5 Le Bouchon Lyonnais 2 2.5 10.5 El Pescador 3 2 9.5 Le Velane 2 2 9

Big hypermarches (Auchan, etc) have them.

Saturday-Sunday's Figaro has an article on p 38 with lots of ratings. I'll be posting the summary on the Digest in the next 48 hours.

I've been to Drouant, this time where I explore ways to get in/out without financial ruin and again yesterday lunch where three of us ate for 156 Euros. BTW it was a 12-star resto yesterday with the table next to us occupied by Mssrs Bocuse, Guerard and Blanc, add to them M. Westerman, I'd say that's a vote of approval. I've also been to Carte Blanche twice and found it wonderful too but more in the style of Ze.

Outstanding. (And I might add, a good choice of places, as you know). Your find suggests that I put together a thread on making reservations on the net/web, once I have an expanded list. Query to other regulars/members: Any suggestions as to other options such as "Context:Paris"? Post here or as a PM. Thanks. John

Yes. First, don't worry, you can usually get in there the same day. Second, have someone French call (I know, we love auslanders, but........) Third, call every day, you'll wear them down. Fourth, if you can't get in there, there are a coupl'a other places in town. Good luck.

Actually, I think it/they is/are the most popular tea place(s) in Paris and has a great variety. Since I was merely reporting on an article, I didn't mention M Freres, but it surely is a great venue for the non-French to buy teas in or sit and sip.

We stumbled upon an absolutely wonderful place in the Marais yesterday, indeed we were their first customers ever. They sell 17th, 18th and 19th century reproductions of Portuguese ceramics, largely pitchers; ideal for putting your bag-in-box wine into for an elegant presentation. It's run by two young men who grew up seeing their grandmother's ancient pitchers/pottery/etc and loved them. Details: Ornatio, 18, rue du Pont Choux in the 3rd, 01.48.87.23.06. We're taking two home.

Tea/thé Salons/Ceremonies/Purchase: A compendium Sunday March 19, 2006, the Journal du Dimanche published an article on having tea in a serene setting. It suggested: In a secret garden Mademoiselle Li, Pavillion des ateliers, at the principal entry of the Jardin d'Acclimatation in the 16th, 01.40.67.99.16, open Saturday and Sundays 12 noon - 6 PM, 4 € a teapot. In the grand tradition Pantheon bouddhique (annex of the Guimet Museum), 19, ave d’Iena in the 16th, 01.56.52.53.00, free entry, the garden is open everyday but Tuesday 1-5 PM; tea ceremonies start up again May 4th and cost 12 € (reservations are a must). L’Artisan des Saveurs, 72, rue du Cherche Midi in the 6th, 01.42.22.46.64, open everyday except Wednesday from 12 noon-6:30 PM and brunch weekends 12 noon – 3 PM. Le Loir dans la theire, 3, rue des Roisiers in the 4th, 01.42.72.90.61, everyday from 11:30 AM to 7 PM. On Morrocan couches Aid, 24, rue Boursault in the 17th, 01.44.70.07.30, open everyday from 12 noon to 2 AM; teapots are 6-8 €. La mosquee de Paris, 39, rue Geoffroy St-Hilaire in the 5th, 01.43.31.38.20. In a palace Le Bristol, 112, rue du Faubourg St-Honore in the 8th, 01.53.43.43.00, from Monday to Saturday from 7-10:30 AM and Sundays 7-11 AM; continental breakfast 34 €. Le Crillon, 10, place de la Concorde in the 8th, 01.44.71.15.00. To buy tea Au Palais des thés, open everyday 10 AM – 8 PM, 64, rue Vieille du Temple in the 3rd, 01.48.87.80.60, 61, rue du Cherche Midi in the 6th, 25, rue Raymond Losserand in the 14th, 21, rue de l’Annonciation in the 16th. A la Route des Thés in Versailles.

This Thursday, the freebie Paru Vendu reviewed several places for brunch: Le Curieux Spaghetti Bar, La Ferme, Café du Musee Jaquemart Andre, l’Heure Gourmande + Juan & Juanita.

The Week of March 13th, 2006 Monday, in Le Fooding, Elvira Masson has a note that the patron of Chez Ramulaud has opened a true “night restaurant,” Aux Zingots, specializing in natural wine and tripaille (innards); everything coming with frites, corrodinates given before, which is open til 1 AM, and if the prefecture of police is nice, 2 AM. Entrees are 8-12, mains 17-20 €. Tuesday, in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger gave 3/5 blocks to Christophe, 8, rue Descartes in the 5th, 01.43.26.72.49, open everyday with lunch menu at 16, regular menu 19 and a la carte 30-40 €, and Philippe Toinard awarded 3/5 blocks to Sensi, 1 bis, rue Jean Mermoz in the 8th, 01.42.90.29.10, closed Sundays, lunch formula 24, menu 28, a la carte 45-75 € for calamari and shrimp a la plancha, swordfish and mascarpone. Also in the issue was an article by Francois Lemarie on the New Kings of the Bistro mentioning: Le Fumoir, Dede la frite, La Perle, Le Delaville, Le Charbon, Le China Club, La Gazzetta, Le café Tournesol, Le General Beuret, Le Trois Pieces Cuisine, La Fourmi, Chez Francis la Butte + La Fleche d’Or. I missed reporting the new contained in it’s sidebar last week, but the bistrot of the year of the Petit Lebey is – La Ferrandaise, 8, rue Descartes in the 5th, 01.43.26.72.49, open every day, lunch formulas at 12, 16 and 19 €, a la carte 40 €, where he liked the Basque pork nems, roast duck and the mousse au chocolate. Wednesday, in Figaroscope Emmanuel Rubin’s “C’est Nouveau” gave the lead, photo and 2-hearts to Les Muses, in the Hotel Scribe, 1, rue Scribe in the 9th, 01.44.71.24.24, closed Saturdays and Sundays, running one about 80-100 € a la carte but with menus at 45, 70 and 120 € for rabbit presented three ways (too precious), good pigeon and a disappointing waffle. Two hearts also went to l’Archelle, 83, ave de Segur in the 15th, 01.40.65.99.10, closed Sundays and Mondays, costing 30-40 a la carte or menus at 20, 25 and 30 for lunch and 35 € at dinner for foie gras with chestnuts and faut filet (for my views see here.) One other two-hearter was Le Petit Champaret, 30, rue Vernier in the 17th, 01.40.13.81.8, open every day, running one about 30-45 € for Lyon sausage, kidneys with mustard sauce and baba. Then he awarded one heart to Bizen, 111, rue Reaumur in the 2nd, 01.40.13.81.81 open every day, in the old Tarn space, running one about 30-40 € for snails and Thai swordfish. Finally a broken heart went to Le Comptoir, 37, rue Berger in the 1st, 01.40.26.26.66, costing 25-40 € serving tired world food. In their “Dossier” the Figaroscope gang discussed Spanish food listing: Gastronomic ones Le Passage (Alain Senderens) l’Atelier de Joel Robuchon Le Salon d’Helene Authentic ones Fogon Christina’s Tapas Calle 24 Da Rosa Bellota, Bellota The conceptual ones Lizarran Casa del Campo Culture Biere Trema And as usual, Francois Simon went to another – Pena Festayre. Wednesday, Zurban’s guest critic Pierrick Jegu devoted his major space to a review of Aux Zingots, coordinates given before, which he says delivers excellent bistro food such as a tartare of crayfish, boudin, rabbit – it’s open only in the evening but until 1 AM. The restos in the casserole have all had their coordinates given before as well: Seafood Bar Prunier, Carpediem + Jules, the first a seafood cantine, the second, serves haddock and tuna with a vegetable “spaghetti” and the last has very reasonable menus (17-21 €) and is a bit out of the way. Jean-Claude Ribaut, in Wednesday/Thursday’s Le Monde discussed keeping wine alive once opened. Thursday in Le Point Gilles Pudlowski published his usual mix of places and products. In Lille, he notes the passage of control from father to son at L'Huîtrière, in St Martin de Belleville there’s an all pork meal at Le Grenier de Saint-Martin, the wonderboy of Megeves, Emmanuel Renaut, former second to Marc Veyrat, has realized his dream of a hotel resto, Flocons de sel and in Les Menuires, Emily Jay, 25, has gone into the kitchen of Au Coin du feu. He also tells where to buy the Savoy pasta, crozets – at the La Maison des pâtes in Chambéry - and gives a recipe for a risotto of crozets with country bacon. Finally he visits several Paris restaurants and likes Il Carpaccio, an Italian place in the Hotel Royal Monceau and Le Comptoir du Relais but wants to follow the other plain Le Comptoir, coordinates given, well chef’d by Miguel Mélinard formerly with Nobu, serving tartare of tuna and salmon and a nice Thai plate and Al Dente, another Italian trattoria in the 7th. Thursday, in l’Express Jean Luc Petitrenaud reviewed the “almost anonymous“ Portuguese bistrot, 2 sans 3 restaurant, 203 Av Gambetta in the 20th, 01.40.31.86.07 and Charollais in Macon. Also this Thursday and last, in the freebie Paru Vendu Pierre Rival gave his “Coup de Pierre“ to Mori Venice Bar + Ripaille. In addition, the paper reviewed several places for brunch: Le Curieux Spaghetti Bar, La Ferme, Café du Musee Jaquemart Andre, l’Heure Gourmande + Juan & Juanita. Friday, Jean Louis Galesne in Les Echos, reviewed several new restaurants all of which he liked except the Seafood Bar which he didn’t “special mention.” About Christophe, coordinates above, he wrote that Christophe Philippe, 26, ex-La Table Corse, Plaza Atheneee + Pic delights the diner with crunchy langoustines, cod and veal sweetbreads. At La Table de Claire, 30, rue Emile-Lepeu in the 11th, 01.43.70.59.84, closed Sundays and Mondays for about 40 €, a creative chef Claire Seban cooks up apple with foie gras, lamb, cod and spiced bread. Then at the Seafood Bar Caviar House & Prunier, 15, place de la Madeleine in the 8th, 01.47.42.98.98, closed Sundays for about 50 € without caviar, serves oysters, giant crab and other seafood. Finally, in Boulogne-Billancourt he ate at Boulogne sur Mer, 11 bis, avenue Jean-Baptiste-Clément, 01.46.04.12.87, open for lunch and Friday and Saturday dinner where he loved the oysters, fish and wine. Saturday, in Figaro, Francois Simon’s “Croque Notes” concerned his visit to Marc Meneau’s l’Esperence in Vezelay, which I couldn’t help myself from starting at the end – where he says the bill took the enamel off his teeth at 592 € (the menu was 160 €) and one can eat better at nearby starred places (eg Patrick Gauthier’s La Madeleine in Sens) at half the price. He found good and bad things about each dish he had, for example, the white wine aperitif was served warm but maybe that was to emphasize its flavors. Simon also gave a nice review of a new book Et si c’etait bon, written by Jean Marcel Bouguereau, chief editor at Nouvel Observatoire, published by Chiflet & Co (9.50 €). In addition Simon says that Bertrand Gueneron, exLucas Carton will move to Bascou on Rue Reamur at the beginning of April. Finally he draws ten lessons for French chefs that he learned from visiting Catalonia, that might have been subtitled “Ferran Adria and beyond,” as follows: 1. Make it simple, like Elkanbo does fish in Geteria rather than overdone with spices as in France. 2. Make it affordable, like Les Cols in Olot. 3. Make it relaxed, like Arzak in San Sebastien rather than like in France where the waiters are like shoe salesgirls who treat the client like an inferior. 4. Remember it’s just a meal not a grand mass (as it is in France), example: Toc in Gerona. 5. Remain humble, like at Mugaritz in Erenteria, rather than egotistical like French chefs. 6. To survive, adapt to the new generation of diners, like Beratasegui in Barcelona rather than cling to convention as in France. 7. Be a bit daring, like at Ca’Sento in Valence rather than always applying the brakes as in France. 8. Still – keep classic dishes, as does Jaume Subiros in Figueras. 9. And keep your sense of humar, as does el Celler de Can Roca in Girona as opposed to Transversal serving apple seeds for dessert. 10. Finally, keep soldiering on like Adria does in his Barcelona lab, all day from 8 AM til his one service at 8 PM at El Bulli, rather than fall on your back as in France. {For some reason, Figaro has not been posting all their weekend stuff promptly on the website, thus I have to play a bit of catch up here.} From 18-19 February we learn that the restaurateur, Navromatis [sic] and trend-follower, Li Edelkoort, have teamed up to open a light resto called Laurent on the first floor in the Women’s Section of Galeries Lafayette and Helene Darroze has converted her reception space into a “boudoir” to feed finger food to 16-20 persons {I am not making this up. See my digest account of the article about her containing photos of her in her night-gowns, in the 22-28 December Paris Match.} From the 25-26 February Figaro, comes yet another article, this by Francois Simon, on Claude Terrail and the Tour d'Argent’s “fall” as well as “the info of the day” that Paul Bocuse (age 80) has reached an “understanding” with Alain Ducasse to turn over his resto and five brasseries to him, in a move resembling that when Ducasse saved Aux Lyonnais + Benoit to preserve their national patrimony. On 4-5 March, Figaro’s Alexandra Michot summarized the 10 restaurant guides: the red Guide Michelin, Pudlowski, Lebey, Routard, Prosper Montagne, GaultMillau, Champerand, Bottin, Petit Fute + Omnivore. 11-12 March, Alexandra Michot wrote an article in Le Figaro about places to go for “finger food” specifically mentioning Senderens, L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Hélène Darroze, Alinea {sorry, but it’s true} Alain Ducasse, Sirest opening the end of March at the Porte de Versailles, Fogon, Chez Jean, Liza, Isami, Au bout des Doigts in Lille and La Villa du Havre in Le Havre. Francois Simon’s “Croque Notes” in the same issue wrote an article called “Mom made it better” in which he writes of the restaurant 16 Haussman, next door to where Le Figaro moved last year. The food doesn’t sound so bad, except the clafoutis which ones Mom of yore made less dry, but the clientele does and so I’ll let you read it and figure it out. Finally, two of their writers summarize the recent chefs’ festivals in Le Havre and Milan and award the advantage (as in tennis) of the place to Milan for glamour but the match to Omnivore for its activities at Le Havre. The weekend FT had an article by Jancis Robinson on the improvement in red Loire wines, especially Chinons, noting that Americans are lovers of such products. Sunday, in the JDD Patrice Hardy of La Truffe Noire in Neuilly sur Seine picked his favorite affordable places – La Manufacture in Issy les Moulineaux and Le Reservoir, 16 rue de la Forge Royale in the 11th, 01.43.56.39.60, open every evening for food, music and dancing in a huge ex-Entrepot. FYI, Pierre Herme also picked his favorites in the weekly Enville listing Le Baratin + La Cafe de la Mairie in the 6th. Saturday-Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote an article called “Where’s the Beed” discussing Frederic Doucet, Bocuse and Ducasse’s most recent young chef find from Charolles as well as Vicky Ozyuruk’s new Club Sandwich bar called 46 Avenue and John Talbott, one on "How Can a Critic get it so Wrong." {Digester’s Note: For several years, I have been disappointed with the publication I and many in France and the Outre-mer once loved (in the 1960’s, bien sur,) the once monthly, then occasional, then in real trouble, now bimonthly Gault-Millau. Has it turned the corner, sighted the “light at the end of the tunnel,” found itself at last, again? Never one to step out on the plank, I’m not sure. But the Feb-March issue looks like it’s turning towards quality content again (enough that I’m re-upping after several years as a non-subscriber.)} Here’s a sampling of what this issue offered: reviews of three new places, the first two in Paris whose coordinates I’ve already supplied - Le Cou de la Girafe, Sens par la Campagnie des Comptoirs + Chateau de Beaulieu-Marc Meurin in Busnes; several places that have changed various aspects: the hotel-resto Les Castellas in Collias, the décor Taillevent, the concept Bistrot du Sommelier, 97, bd Haussman in the 8th, 01.42.65.24.85, closed weekends, menus 39-100 €, the chef at Petrossian – Le 144 and l’Oustau de Baumaniere in Les Baux, the menu for female guests Flora, the kitchen team at the Park Hyatt Vendome. They also more briefly mention changes of chef at Chateau Eza in Eze, l’Auberge des Falaises in Saint Palais sur Mer, Au Bacchus Gourmet in Epernay, Les Teraces in Uriages les Bains and changes in ownership at La Villa d’Eleis in Siran and hotel chief at Le Saule Pleurer in Monteux. In addition they mention three popular places meriting a visit – Bound, le Cristal Room + La Guignette a Vapeur, at La Villette Park, 211, Ave Jean Jaures in the 19th, 01.40.03.72.21. There is also a huge article (with recipes) on Thierry Marx, the celebrated chef at the Chateau Cordellian-Bages in Pauillac and shorter ones on Bruno Doucet of La Regalade, Lionel Giraud from Narbonne and Flora Mikula. Finally there is an article on Pierre Gagnaire’s “assault” of Tokyo. March’s Where Paris has several reviews, articles and notations by Alexander Lobrano. First he suggests places near museums: Le Dauphin + Vin & Maree near the Louvre, Cinq Mars near the Orsay and Grizzli Café + Benoit near the Pompidou. He also wrote up the venerable brasserie La Coupole and the new top Italian table Il Cortile. Finally, he notes several changes; the new name and chef at the Pur’Grill at the Park Hyatt Paris Vendome, new look and new chef at Drouant, warm and hearty bistro Chez Fred, and new bistro La Ferrandaise. {Finally, I’ve never reported an obit before, but Wednesday, Rene Lasserre of the eponymous restaurant Lasserre died at age 93 and I and countless other young Americans in the ‘60’s found his rolled-back ceiling quite the show. The food and rigid ambiance, well, that was another matter.} Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

This thread will give you an update on (1) what traditionally is in the markets of France each month, (2) what members see/spot early on and (3) what we/you do with the products, that is, recipes, tricks, lessons. Please add your comments on to individual months’ threads. January February March April May June July August September October November December

What’s in the markets in April The following are in full season in April (the underlined ones are the major items) : lamb, rabbit, langoustines, mackerel, asparagus, morilles, goat cheese, St Pierre, turbot, sole, lotte, merlu, seiche, sorrel, spinach, petit pois, cauliflower, artichokes, watercress, radishes, frisee, mangos, fromage blanc, pave d’Auge and Pouligny cheese. (Again, I’m relying principally on the Almanach du Gastronomie by Armelle de Scitivaux (Bottin Goumand, 1998, 133 FF)).

What’s in the markets in Jan The following are reported by the Almanach du Gastronomie* to appear in the markets in January: Arriving: arctic cod, Pollack, anchovies, fennel, spinach, 6 varieties of Provence (what we call lettuces) including lettuce, escarole (same in the US: endive in the UK), curly lettuce (we call it frisée too), leaf or curly lettuce (feuille de chene), oranges, pommes clochard (for the traditional apple dessert), certain pears, strawberries (from Spain though), litchis. Leaving: herring, pheasant, wild boar, chestnuts, Roquefort Baragnbaudes, grapes, esp from Moissac. In full season: oysters, urchins, mixed aromatic herbs, calamari, scallops, bar (European bass/sea wolf), sole, merlan (whiting, Silver Hake), dorade (daurade, sea bream, chrysophrys, gilt head), raie (skate or ray), rouget (red mullet, sur mullet goat fish), plie (carrelet, European plaice, dab), poulards and capons, beef, farmer’s pork, cabbage, cauliflower, mache (we call it mache, but elsewhere it is apparently called corn salad or lamb’s lettuce), beets, salsifis (somewhere called the oyster plant) and crosne (Japanese or Chinese artichoke on which a thread runs), pumpkin, truffles. Vacherin, Munster, Abondance, Ossau-Iraty, Salers + Laguiole, blue cheeses, citrus, pineapples, bananas, kumquats and physalis (ground cherries or Golden Nugget Cape Gooseberry). *Reference: Almanach du Gastronomie by Armelle de Scitivaux (Bottin Goumand, 1998, 133 FF.)

Good tip. We've had three goats this week; a Brin d'Amour from Alleose and a Tomme de Chevre and regular goat cheese both from Quatrehomme; all were fine but the Brin d'Amour from Alleose was the best; was it the Brin d'Amour or Alleose? Ah, who will know?

As I will note in the Digest to be posted later this weekend, I believe that the GaultMillau operation may be recovering from it's long period of morbidity. Both the bimonthly and annual guide seem better constructed and less goofy than in the recent past and for the first time in a long time I liked looking both over. The 2006 Paris Guide is pretty cheery and on target. The chef of the year is William Ledeuil of Ze Kitchen Galerie and Hopes of the Year are Nicolas Bessiere and Stephane Reynaud of Villa9Trois in Montreuil. This year's edition also has lots of pictures, maps of arrondissements with resto locations and lists of restaurants with terraces, wine by the glass and handicapped access.

I think I'm marginally on topic with this tale originally told to me by Gerald Asher of wine writing fame. He was doing a stage at Sherry-Lehman in NY, prior to assuming the big job and Christmas week 1968 or so a woman of a certain age entered and asked for a specific Italian wine, the label of which she held out. She told of how she had settled into a chair at a table in a resto on the Isle of Capri overlooking the Bay, was approached by a handsome young Italian man, shared a dinner and this wonderful wine, as the sun set over the Bay. Could he get her a case? Of course Madame, said young Asher, but I cannot reproduce the sunset, the view or the young man. Moral of the story: some meals consist of more than the food, even on coasts like that of the Azur.

As of this week, the hunter-gatherer in our foursome discovered the big thick stalks of green asparagus grown in France (not Spain or points south) in the Poncelet market. They have not yet appeared in out local market, however.