John Talbott

Since none of us are paid, we only survive on the paramutual betting companies' spread - I'll betcha the trifecta is Goumard, L'Ambassade d'Auvergne + Le Pamphlet in that order. Let us know.

We've already had an extensive thread on what to bring to the States to eat or give as presents; I was hoping this thread would be on products/stuff we use in cooking or our kitchens going each way. Indeed, plus ziplock bags, Comet and pumice (but now I'm straying OT onto cleaning).

2002 maybe; but Pudlo recently said the latest in NY was # 8 so maybe we've missed a few.

You used to have to go to an entrepot or the wine store near the Montparnasse cemetery to get high quality box wines (no oxygen, no spoilage there either) - now my two local wine stores have them prominantly displayed in front. I was told by one of my wine-store owners that the tony places are afraid of the perception that screw-top means plonk, but they're changing their minds d/t spoilage (one insisted the true rate of baditude was 10%).

As intruiging as the discussion was about food poisoning, I think it was off the topic, which is what's special in the markets and events in March. Thus I've moved the posts to one on Food Safety. Hope that's OK. Back to March.

I have long held that one should never get between a gastroenterologist and an ID specialist; dangerous ground there. So folks, as informative as this interchange was, how do we settle what is not a theoretical issue. We all get GI stuff at one time or another, when travelling and eating. And, I have a hunch both of you are using the CDC for your side's argument. What are the rest of us poor slobs to believe if the experts disagree?

I couldn't agree more and it's the way we eat; long languid lunches followed by much walking; it's healthier and much more fun.However, as has been pointed out to me several times: 1. Americans are used to evening meals, esp out and 2. If you're in Paris for only 3-5 days, you're trying to do it all: jamming museums, sights and strolls into the daytime, leaving only the evenings for leisurely dining.

Well, menton1 said it's friendlier for the environment and with it one can use any oil, including high quality olive oil.

With apologies to Tim O'Brien, I'd like to start a thread on "The things they carried" on what those of us who cook and eat bicontinentally schlep back and forth. This parallels in some ways Lucy's thread on Expat substitutions. I'm not sure this is of interest, but let me recount the stuff we bring in each direction. Mind you, things are quite different now than 20-30 years ago when you had to go to Bon Marché or Izraël for exotic items, now our Monoprix carries Illy coffee, Heinz catsup and nachos. In any case, coming West-East we bring American/Jewish horseradish (the French raifort is quite different), Mueske’s Canadian bacon (despite Lucy and P’titpois’ advice), light (Kikkoman green label) soy sauce and Heinz Chili sauce. Coming East-West we bring La Perruche raw sugar (available at Whole Foods, Zabars, etc, but at double the price), Richard (ditto at liquor stores), harissa and French/European dark chocolate (ditto again). PS If you think this is déjà vu all over again, you’re correct; I posted then deleted this and in the process lost Lucy’s comment about PAM, Menton1’s about Misto and hathor’s about horseradish, was it?

Well I've been a couple of times but too long ago to give recommendations. However, as I've noted in the Digest, Arnaud and Veronique Daguin (son of Andre of Auch, brother of Ariane of NYC) has just renovated a hotel-restaurant called Hegia that sounds fantastic. I do know his cooking from the Hotel de France and Jean-Louis Pallidan and it's very good.

Well, Lucy, that option has been taken out of Americans' hands, at least when it comes from poultry from the Ain; Expatica quotes the AFP as saying the US has banned all importation of such animals as of today.

A member sent me a PM which I came up short on, so I thought I'd solicit the advice of all who participate in the France Forum.

Off the top of my head for Sunday nights from least expensive to most: Le Reminet, Bistro du Dome Delambre location, a Brasserie (Lorraine), Pinxo, Drouant, Gagnaire

Interesting point John. My "old" French friends, in both senses of the word, who date back to my "Experiment in Int'l Living" days know less and care less about food than any American Joe or Jill eating a Sabrett's on the sidewalk. But my "new" French friends, acquired largely via eGullet, are as nuts and interested as I am.

Normally I would wait to post this on the Digest next Monday, but of course by then it will be yesterday's news, thus this post: Monday, Le Fooding’s news was that the first Sunday of the month the resto in the 18th much beloved by the “Fooding” bunch, La Famille, 41 rue des Trois Frères, 01 42 52 11 12, hosts a different outside chef in a “ping-pong” event with the resident chef – Bruno Viala. In February it was Angelo Capasa of Marcel at the Drugstore Publicis doing 11 colors in 11 dishes; in March it will be Flora {Mikula} doing classics such as cassoulet, choucroute, etc.; and in April the Irish-born cookbook author (Cooking with Friends) - Trish Deseine – who lives in France. No reservations are taken; it's held between 8 and 11 PM.

Just when you thought you'd heard it all (Mad Cow, Poultry Flu), over the weekend back comes our old friend - Mad Sheep Disease aka scrapie.

We too love the Villa Crespi, not creepy for us but splendid and so great to reach Malpensa.

The Week of February 20th, 2006 Monday, A Nous Paris had an article on the new restos under 30 E. The article starts out by saying that if you call for reservations and they are full at l’Ami Jean, l’Abadache, Le Temps au Temps, La Cerisaie + l’Ami Marcel, clearly their favorite reasonable places {and except for l’Ami Marcel, I couldn’t agree more}, what do you do. It suggests you then call La Ferrandaise, Ripaille, le Bis de Severo + La Table de Claire, coordinates given and food described before, or Les Symples de l’Os a Moelle, 18, av de la Republique, Issy-les-Moulineaux, 01.41.08.02.52, formula at 22 E, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, serving lots of veggies, terrines and “terroir” food. It gives all 3/5 blocks except La Table de Claire, which it also calls in a side-bar, “a joy.” {Like Macys and Gimbels, or Time + Newsweek’s cover stories, both Figaroscope + Zurban have articles on restos under 30 Euros too.} Colette Monsat is the senior author of the “Dossier,” that is broken down into “New Places” and “Sure Values” (all coordinates either given before or in the guidebooks): New Le Bis du Severo Les Symples de l’Os a Moelle La Ferrandaise Miss Betsey Carpediem Carte Blanche Les Fils de la Ferme Sure values Au Fils des Saisons Beurre Noisette Frugier Le Bistral Fish La Boissonnerie And of course, Francois Simon gets in on the affordable fun with a review of the Mesturet where he suggests one goes for the two formulas at 19 or 25 E with a pitcher of wine for 14,50; addition thus= 67.50 E, for grilled stuffed eggplant, a classic blanquette of veal and a compote of bananas and apples. Finally, we go to Zurban’s take on restos under 30 E. This week they published a whole supplement that Felice kindly supplied to me. It included (again coordinates have either been given or are in the guidebooks): Les Enfants Rouges, Les Papilles, Le Pre Verre, Le Villaret, Louis Vins, Le Timbre, Le Bistrot Paul Bert, l’Avant Gout, La Ferrandaise, l’Ami Jean, La Cerisaie, Le Temps Au Temps, La Regalade, La Cave de l’Os a Moelle, La Boulangerie, Le Baratin + La Cave est Restaurant. Also in this week’s Zurban, guest critic Pierrick Jegu (author of Paris en Bouteilles, Parigramme, 5,70 E) devoted the major space to a review of Les Symples coordinates above (and formerly known as Thevier) where he liked the price, the wine selection, the terrines a la table d’hote, celery remoulade, beet salad and shredded carrots {you get the picture}, pork chops, cheese and traditional desserts. The “restos a la casserole” were: Pleine Mer, 22 rue de Chabrol in the 10th, 01.53.34.64.47, closed Sunday afternoon, Mondays and Tuesdays, formulas at 10 and 15 E, a dozen oysters from 6.50 to 16,50 E, of which they’ve already mentioned but where he likes the bivalves (plates, creuses) with Muscadet, smoked salmon, tarama and for dessert – a kouign amman; La Table de Marc Labourel, 6, rue Ernest Renan in the 15th, 01.43.06.94.75, closed Sundays and Monday night, where their specialty is cheese (a cheese menu is 49 E, regular menu 49 E as well, but a la carte only 25-30 E at lunch, 35-40 E at dinner without wine or cheese) as in cheese raviolis, salmon with bleu d’auvergne and beef with Roquefort – saying it lack a spark of individuality and leaves your credit card smoking – opt for the cheese menu he advises; and the bistrot Les Gamelles au Plafond, 9, rue des Bourets in Suresnes (take Tram T2), 01.47.28.75.22, closed Saturday and Sundays, menus at 15 and 20 E, menu-carte 24E where a young chef-owner, Blaise Volekaert, ex-Ritz, has taken up the challenge of dishing out pumpkin soup, monkfish with curry and a caramel tarte tatin. Back-tracking a bit to Emmamuel Rubin’s “C’est Nouveau” in Figaroscope this week; it introduces the “dinette-type seafood bar” at Prunier & Caviar House, 15, place de la Madeleine in the 8th, 01.47.42.98.98, closed Sundays, that features oysters, herring, salmon, chic crustaceans and lots of caviar for anything from 19 E (a formula of salmon Tartare and dessert) to 683 E for 125 grams of Beluga, awarding it two hearts as well as to the next two places: Chez Cecile, 17, rue Vignon in the 8th, 01.42.66.46.39, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays with a 30 E menu (first and main) or 35 for all three courses featuring scallops with a shitake infusion, gambas beignets and 5-pepper beef; and Temps Libres, 158, ave Charles de Gaulle in Neuilly, 01.46.24.84.42, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, running you about 40 E (lunch menu=23 and evening = 29 E) for an andouille millefeuille, langoustine raviolis and too-well-cooked blanquette of veal. Then he gave one heart each to: the place that replaces Sumai’s Café {that I really liked} called Le Parc, 33, rue de Vaugirard in the 6th, 01.40.48.40.48, open everyday til 2 AM, which he notes that despite the cuisine which is more brasserie than fusion, serves the same public and costs 35-45 E in a Costes-type way with salads, veggies, beef, etc as well as “nippo-parisien” macarons a la Aoki; and Vog en Scene across from 5, quai Marcel Dassault in Suresnes, (replacing Five), 01.41.06.55.56 open every day, running one 40-45 E for confited peppers, cod and duck with mashed potatoes. Thursday, Jean-Luc Petitrenaud in l’Express reviewed that old favorite Le Moulin de la Galette, 83, rue Lepic in the 18th, 01.46.06.84.77, menu = 25 E that continues to serve correct and simple dishes. He also reviewed Chez Paul in Lyon. Gilles Pudlowski, also writing in Thursday’s l’Express managed to hit both the new hot ones in Paris and those near the ski slopes (it being “winter sports” time for families.) First, Paris. The new places he likes and will go back to are: La Ferrandaise + Petrossian both of whose coordinates have been given already; basically he just tells what he had - crustacean soup, cod with andouille and an almond cream - at the former and an (over-cooked) poached egg with caviar, crab risotto and 11 hour lamb at the latter. As well in Paris, he continues to admire Jacques Cagna and notes the rejuvenation of the Park Hyatt Paris Vendôme Hotel in the 2nd by an ex of Christian Constant’s, where he liked the langoustines with citronnelle, veal with zuccini and broccoli and wines by the glass for 110 E. He also applauds l’Ideal near Mont Blanc and Marc Veyrat (whom he calls “our” Harry Potter and a Merlin at the stoves, a bit of Ferran Adria and Heston Blumenthal, between Barnum and Bocuse, the man who’s reinvented the food of our day)’s most recent folly La Ferme de mon père in Megeve as well as Mozartian chef Brunnier’s Riedenburg in Salzbourg. Finally, he gives a recipe for sautéed langoustines with asparagus and where to get them in Loctudy. Jean-Claude Ribaut, in Thursday-Friday’s Le Monde had two articles on the 2006 Michelin Red Guide. The first noted that this years edition had 65 new “Bib Goumands,” the smiley-faced Bibendum notations for a good price-quality meal – there are 481 in all of France since they started being chosen in 1997. One is in Paris - l’Ami Jean and one in Puteaux – La Table d’Alexandre. The news this year is that they also chose 400 “maisons d’hote” (eg B&B’s) noted by a red icon in addition to the 276 reasonably-priced “Bib Hotels.” The second article was subtitled “tightfisted with their stars” and reported what was leaked already but Ribaut complained that the Tour d’Argent demotion was a{n unexpected and to him, apparently, undeserved} surprise. Friday, Jean Louis Galesne in Les Echos had an article on how that lowly bistro meat – pork – is now found on the most swank of menus, vide Eric Frechon at le Bristol who merits at least another star for it. However he also praises the pork served elsewhere, specifically at AOC, Stephane Martin + l’Appenino, coordinates in the guidebooks or article itself. {From Frechon’s crunchy pork fixed about five ways on a single plate to AOC’s BBQ with rissole potatoes; and Martin’s jarret with red cabbage to l’Appenino’s ham, salami, bacon, sausage and dishes such as stuffed pig’s foot – it all sounds pretty mouth-watering.} In the weekend’s Figaro there were three articles on prominent places: Jean Claude Vrinat’s Taillevent that was largely a historical overview with chronology; another, on Olivier Roellinger’s eponymous restaurant in Cancale, pegged to his acquisition of a third Michelin star; and the third on Claude Terrail’s Tour d’Argent’s widely-commented on loss of a star. Francois Simon’s “Croque notes” entitled “Return of the Air France steward” discusses his meal at Bélisaire, rue Marmontel in the 15th, 01.48.28.62.24, in the most opaque Simonian manner ever. The March US Saveur had a wonderful book review by Shane Mitchell entitled “Very Slow Food” of eGullet member and Director Paula Wolfert’s most recent edition of The Cooking of Southwest France: Recipes from France’s Magnificent Rustic Cuisine, Wiley, NYC, 2006. If you wish to order it please do so using our link in the Pantry to Amazon.com. Amber Garrison’s Postcards from Paris this week highlighted what she considers the quintessential Parisian bistro Le Voltaire on the Quai Voltaire; classic food, good ambiance, nice place. France Magazine had an article by Philip Faiers on Haute Normandy that listed several restos in the Dieppe/Le Havre area: le Bistrot du Pollet, La Cambuse, Chez Nounoute + Brasserie les Bains. Saturday-Sunday, in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp published three articles entitled “Michelin Men” on the winners and losers in the 2006 Red Guide, “Petrossian/Caviar Pret-a-Porter” and “We Found Ghislaine Arabian! Buzz” and John Talbott had an article entitled Had Enough Pumpkin Soup Yet?. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

I am bringing this thread back up since we are about to enter March and we will be posting a summary of "What's Available in the Markets of France" each month. Please contribute your observations, readings, suggestions, etc so that others can know what to be on the lookout for as they prowl the markets.

I learned of another service that is good for Paris apartment rentals from someone on the other side of the transaction, the renter. My source recommends VIP aka Vacation in Paris.

NMM's post of 26 Feb 06 has been moved to the main Brunch thread with his permission to make it more easily searchable. In addition Brunch and Breakfast has been added as a compendium thread and to the "Eating, Shopping....etc" pinned thread.

I think in the main dining room/area there was one person smoking. I also think in the alcove-type arwa there is no smoking. Ask to be seated in no smoking, it's big enough that they should be able to accomdate you.

The newest estimates since the confirmation yesterday that it was specifically H5N1 are that chicken/poultry sales are off 30-50%. But officials are clearly trying to combat the fear of contracting it through oral consumption of cooked poultry and eggs, publicizing its safety by their eating such; President Chirac serving supreme de volaille at the Elysee and the health ministers eating poultry in Vienna at their meeting.

OK. There's lots of stuff already. I'll get to it tomorrow.

In a recent JDD article on prohibiting smoking in bars and restos, Marie-Christine C. from Department 93 suggested that if smokers were going to be required by the "Secu" to pay for their lung cancer care, eaters of charcuterie should pay for their cardio-vascular illnesses. Just a risible thought for the weekend.