Holly Moore

Near raw - coddled eggs on the occasionally properly prepared Caesar Salad.

Aged, annectdotal insight. Back in the days when quiche was cutting edge for Philadelphia, I opened and ran my restaurant for a year without a license. Then, on a slow Monday night a six-top walked out because one guy had to have a martini. I started the process for a liquor license the next week. First guy I talked with would loan me the money as long as I put in juke boxes. Then I found someone who took out liens on everything I owned and came by weekly for his check. Net. Net. Once I got the license sales went up 50% and profits more than doubled - or something like that. It changes everytime I tell the story, but the liquor license gave us staying power. I lost some existing customers, but a lot stayed with me. And I got tablefulls of new customers. Things may have changed, now that BYO is a sub-culture, but I suspect that even today wine sales and new business would more than make up for the lost customers.

Oh to return to the days of yesteryear when Veal Holstein was on the menu - Wiener Schnitzel with capers and a fried egg or two on top. That was eating.

When Cliff was pushing for Front of House, and asked why he wanted it so badly, I recall him asserting, "It's what I do in my restaurant." I'm guessing Cliff had the typical back of the house outlook that Front of the House is a snap - just stand around chatting with customers and glomming up all the praise for the kitchen's hard work.

First time a chef/cook ever got canned for not spending enough money.

You're probably thinking of Jeanine's Bistro which evolved into La Truffe. The costs involved with liquor are a major reason for BYO's, but don't blame the PALCB. Rather, it is the cost of a liquor license and the ongoing expense of liquor liability insurance. A related reason for BYOs - neighbor associations bar any new liquor licenses from entering the area. In the good old days of Philadelphia's first restaurant renaissance, licenses could be purchased elsewhere in Philadelphia and transfered to prime restaurant areas. In many cases, like lower South Street and Queen Village that is no longer possible. BYOs, if they can make it without liquor, can be an ideal stage for a new, creative chef to strut his/her stuff. Small kitchen. Total control over the product. An great opportunity to experiment, find one's way. But it takes courage to push the boundries, serve the unexpected. And that courage can carry to big a risk, when the house is mortgaged, the first baby is on the way, and/or, as is usually the case, the restaurant opened totally under capitalized and doesn't have the financial staying power to flirt with innovation.

A terrific article by April White, though please, for a while at least, no more Italian restaurants - great, bad or mediocre. Please. I'm serious. No new Italian restaurants for at least a few months. Philadelphia, as they say about the NFL, on any given Saturday evening can keep up with New York, San Francisco or Chicago. Dragging the NFL analogy a bit further, we don't have the depth of New York. Where Philadelphia has Le Bec-Fin, New York has a number of comparable restaurants. Maybe what Philadelphia lacks are chefs driven to perform on the national stage, or PR agencies able to take them there. Love him or hate him, Jack McDavid is the last Philadelphia chef to achieve national prominance. Nowadays Tony Luke is our most famous chef - not that there is anything wrong with that. For the Philadelphia restaurant scene to reach the next level, our chefs need to take us there. Not in talent. We have very talented chefs. But chefs who offer exciting, compelling creativity and then, just as importantly, have the charisma and drive to effectively market that creativity on a national stage. Of course, it wouldn't hurt if the Food Network moved its production facility to Center City Philadelphia.

Please, lets keep the discussion on the topic of Jonathan Newman, his tremendous impact on the state store system as well as the impact of his resignation, and any politics directly related to Mr Newman's resignation or Mr. Conti's appointment. Thanks,

Alas, I believe blueberry season starts in August. Will let a downeaster comment on fresh clams and oysters. Drop by the New England portion of my site. I've spent a lot of eatin' time in Maine. Waterman's is my favorite for steamed lobster; mighty fine pie too. Reds for lobster rolls (who woulda guessed?) and Allison's in Kennebunkport for fried clams. You have to get a fried fish sandwich from Bet's in Boothbay. One should feed the family. The Lobsterman's Coop in Boothbay is also good for lobster in the rough, and Mabel's in Kennebunkport for a fancier lobster and the risk of bumping into the Bush clan.

Carman's is open Friday thru Monday from 8 AM tiil 2 PM.

Aha, it is last season. Damn you, TiVo!

According to TiVo, "The final three contestants are judged." Then again, TiVo also says that Top Chef is "Reality-based." So who knows if TiVo is correct about tonight's episode.

Just a reminder for those, like me who need to get a life, final three tonight.

I'm guessing cooked turkey, a dash of stuffing, and a cranberry might be an opportune filling.

Alas, in "Further Review", Time Out was unable to find any deep, engaging culinary criticism. Obviously the editors are not familiar with "American Fried."

Alas my doctor is not as flexible on my meds as I would like. So mild it is. Thanks for the suggestions - and keep them coming.

I'm going to be spending about 10 days in Thailand this February. Bangkok, for sure, and probably Chiang Mai and Phuket. Normally spicy hot food would be a plus, not an issue. But I'm on a medication that makes my mouth hyper-sensative to peppers or any other source of heat. Example - I've had to go from aged provolone to ho-hum provolone on hoagies. My worry is that I will have a hard time dining/eating well in Thailand if I have to eliminate even moderate spicy heat. Is the a valid concern? If not, and I hope the answer is no, what suggestions do you have for ordering mellow Thai Cuisine above and beyond Pad Thai.

Perhaps things have changed since I last stayed at the Latham in 1977, but I've always considered it a great, little hotel. It's at 17th and Walnut, with lots of fine dining and great eating within a few blocks.

For my taste, Dienner's it is. Great wings too.

This is somewhere between second hand and tenth hand information - Doesn't mean it is not true. But, as far as I know, at this time, there is no confirmation that there are such plans. It is a good idea, as others have suggested, to wait to see if the rumor is true and the reasoning behind it. Plenty of time for rants after that. At that point, please limit the discussion to the any decision re RTM Sunday openings and not a discussion on Philadelphia politics or politicians. Thanks.

My only complaint is that Daniel Rubin listed the smart-ass punk college kid from Minor Gourmandry ahead of long time eating icon Holly Moore. I was mainlining nitrates long before Andy reviewed his first bowl of pabulum.

Had forgotten about Whistler's garlic chicken wings. Used to make trips over there for take-out during Eagle's half time.

Why not? Is not Chinese, along with French and Italian, considered one of the great classic cuisines?

Is it possible for a US Chinese restaurant to merit a food check average similar to the food charges at a top French or Italian restaurant? How about a Philadelphia Chinese restaurant?

So it is 8 PM on a Friday night. Just finished work. Nothing planned, nothing but cold pizza in the refrigerator. Got a hunger for a thick rib eye, broiled a perfect medium rare. Wearing a pair of old jeans. Don't feel like changing; don't feel like offending the casually elegant. Nor do I want to be the only guy alone in a room packed with loud couples celebrating the start of the weekend. I'm thinking that in a city the size of Philadelphia there has to be a dimly lit bar or tavern that does a steak on par with the Palm, maybe some decent fries on the side. Nothing comes to mind. Any ideas? I'll check back after I throw the pizza in the oven to reheat.