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Simon Majumdar

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Everything posted by Simon Majumdar

  1. You are talking about two people who went to four Texan 'cue joints in 90 mins and who ate Smitty's out of prime rib 4-7 people Who the hell did they think they were kidding? S
  2. Snapper is wonderful with it Fillets of John Dory, even better. S
  3. I have re-read John's initial post and while I do think there is an element of the "rose tinted" about it, I think I may have reacted a bit harshly to his motives Rather than edit the post which would be cowardly, I would rather admit that I have misjudged both his content and intent My apologies S
  4. Gavin I think precise Beeton type recipes miss the point of Indian food. We use them on this board because it makes a useful starting point. I recall ( going back to my childhood yet again ) asking my Grandmother how much to use of certain spices and she would always just reply 'a little" it didn't matter if it was a pinch or a palmful, it was always " a little" S
  5. I suspect that the article ( a La most of Pere Whiting's posts ) was not meant to be understood, but was posted for a whole different reason I think your view is a correct one in that one should have respect for all countries and all cuisines, but one should not revere them to the point at which they become set in aspic or lose what made them so appealing in the first place. There is a tendency ( on this site most of all ) to revere French Food. By that I don't mean respect it or even just simply love eating it, but to revere it to a point that it becomes a museum piece incapable of development Indian cookery quite apart from being as diverse as the country itself is a modern flowing entity. I describe it as the youngest ancient cuisine. It is constantly developing and growing. This is quite different from fusion ( " let's put fill this puri with lemon grass and serve it with mahi mahi" ugh! ) it is a confidence that comes with time. Indian food, or rather those who cook it, know that basics and can exptemporise around the theme. If working with some of the sublime recipes that Suvir shares with us teaches you one thing ( I don't mean you personally ) it should be that Indian cookery gives you a profound liberation to invent seldom found in any other cuisine S BTW - I would love to know how you as a chef have taken some of the things you have read here and used them in your professional life S
  6. Ho Hum I see JW has managed to cause some more friction in his usual inimitable way. What he is really doing in his "article" is deal with the usual knee jerk western reaction to their own guilt brought on by cultural imperialism, be it ancient or modern. I always shudder when people talk about "humility' in their discussions of India. a) Because it is f**king patronising b) Because, believe it or not, India and Indian Cuisine is perfectly capable of standing on its own two feet and does not really need the support of Westerners whose teeth are set on edge because their fathers have eaten sour grapes ( to paraphrase the prophet Jeremiah ) Indian cooking is a living form not some atrophied museum piece. Quite frankly so is Indian music. To treat them as if they are some alien entity that one must prostrate ones self infront of ( or should that be "submerged again into the totality" ?) is to misunderstand the nature of cooking, India and Indian cooking. Someone, somewhere has been watching too much Merchant Ivory when they should have been listening to Bangra S
  7. My "must go to" place in Chicago every time I am in town is El Tinajon a superb guatemalan place. I wonder what the locals make of it? S
  8. I have a recipe for an "Indian" onion jam that works so well with anything that I make vast batches of it and freeze. It is particularly good with cold meats and cheese, but it is also good mixed into yoghurt to serve with spicy food SPICES ( whole ) Cinnamon Stick - Broken in Half Cummin Seeds Fennel Seeds 2 black Cardomon pods 2 Dry Chillies SPICES GROUND 1 Tsp Fennugreek 1 Tsp Chilli powder 1 Tsp Sugar OTHER 1 2in piece of ginger ( peeled and chopped finely ) 2 fat cloves of garlic 4 Large Spanish onions peeled and sliced into rings Fry the whole spices in nut oil until they lose their rawness. Turn the heat down a little and add the ginger and garlic. Sweat these for a minute or so and then add the gound spices and sweat for a further minute. If it begins to stick don't add more oil, add a tsp of water. Turn the heat down as low as possible and add the onions. Stir them around to be sure they are covered with the spiced oil and cover the pan and leave to cook for 1hr. Keep an eye on it to make sure it does not burn. The slow cooking releases the sugars from the onions making a wonderful hot and sour flavour. This is wonderful served hot ( as a bed for grilled fish ) or cold with a good hard cheddar. S
  9. As one who was, quite rightly, critical of its early efforts, I have to say that the magazine has improved enormously. The latest issue had some, excellent articles ( they still leaven this with some really bad articles, the one of Music in restaurants for e.g) and the design style has found its feet. I confess it is not a magazine whose arrival I await with baited breath ( that would be Boxing News) but I do enjoy it when I read it. Just wish they would give up on those awful, lazy punning headlines though. S
  10. I have been looking with interest at the thread about Steakhouses in Chicago ( Magnums is one of my faves BTW) and thought I would mention the Weber place on State & Ohio (?) I have to own up to having some prejudice as I am working with Weber on a new grilling book for the European market and was in town recently to meet with the good folks from Weber Stephens ( actually they are good folks, delightful people ) When they mentioned they were taking my colleague and I to dinner at their newly opened restaurant, I was a little nervous as it is on that drag of Chicago that houses some actively nast places ( ESPN anyone?) and I had placed it in that category when I had gone past it in a cab. On arrival, I was very pleasantly surprised. THe room was packed. In fact they have about five rooms all named after grills, so, I think, we sat in the summit room. The bar ( Smokey Joe's, Ahem!) made one of the best Martini's I have ever had in the US and the service was very efficient. The menu itself was relatively standard steakhouse food but very well done with a good choice. My "Summit" Steak was a 26ozer and cooked to perfection ( black and blue for the record ) as were the Fillet Mignons and Salmon that my companions ordered. Every thing was cooked in an open kitchen on Industrial versions of Weber grills. Quite a sight. We spoke with the executive chef for the company who also does recipes for books and shows and etc etc, Michael Chech, he seemed personable and knowledgeable. He was telling us that with Breakfast, lunch and dinner service they are dealing with over 700 covers a day. My opinion may have been coloured by my realationship with the people at Weber, but this restaurant seems like a welcome addition to the Chicago scene. I know from my work with them that they never do anything without a great deal of research or thought and this place seems to reflect it. Who knew?
  11. I always say if you want to understand ( as much as one can ) the cultural diversity that is the wonder of Mother India, read three things The Gita The collected Poems of Rabindranath Tagore No Full Stops in India by Mark Tully Avoid everything written by Naipaul. His book " a Million Mutinies Now" is a disgrace both from a literary and an understanding point of view In terms of food. I would wait until Suvir's book comes out if I were you
  12. Achaya is a starting point for those with no knowledge of Indian food. it makes a good base, like learning to drive or doing x101. What Steve and Suvir intimate is correct. The books have no soul. They have no spirit. In fact that is one of the areas that disappoints me most about so much of the publishing on Indian Food. For a cuisine that is so intertwined with the spirit, so much writing on it is clinical ,empty and worthless The recipes we ( mostly Suvir ) share here on this board have contributed more to my understanding of indian food in all its glory and diversity than a million Madhur's. I think that is because it is not shared for want of profit but for the need to have everyone experience the magic of things that those of us who were fortunate enough to grow up with this cuisine take for granted. So sure, spend $25 on Achaya if you want a good reference book, but keep posting on here if you want to understand. S
  13. Going to Lipp and expecting good food and then complaining when you don't get it is like coming to London and going to All Bar One and thinking it is great. Oh hold on Fat Guy's already done that S
  14. I had supper with our very own Blondie at Lupa a couple of weeks ago. I have to be honest and say I was totally underwhelmed ( not by Blondie by whom I was very definitely whelmed ) by the food. The mortadella(sp?) was very good, but what can you say to that? "well sliced guys" The pork dish I had was meant to be fatty and gelatinous but was very dry. I remember on of the side dishes being quite good, but for the life of me I can't remember which one, which speaks volumes The service, whilst a little on the theatrical side was efficient and the waiter did persuade me to a wine a good $20 cheaper than the wine I chose. The wine list seemed excellent, to a non italian wine expert. S
  15. These are spectacular recipes. Please, please keep them coming. They make a remarkable collection. I promise still to spend cash money on your book when it comes out S
  16. I congratulate Joel on the Chocolate dessert I had on my recent visit. It was without doubt one of the finest I have had anywhere at any time Well done S
  17. I find it hard to shed any tears for loss of the noxious brews produced by this odious house. I know one should support real ales yadda, yadda, yadda, and anyone who has seen me under the tap at the Wenlock knows I like my beer, but there is only one rule in brewing beer, be any damn good at it, and these people are not. Sorry, can't join the crusade S
  18. Helen I would have thought that "Time & The Conways" was a more appropriate Priestly play for The Egullet Players to put on as their first presentation. Isn't that about a group of people going round and round in time as they move closer to hell? I will be sad to see John go. I was one of the ones who invited him here and he contributes much if in his mischievious way. To equate him with the trolls is slightly silly. Didn't Arthur Miller write a play about that? Perhaps that could be our second play " He's a troll I tell you. Burn Him" S
  19. The sauce could not be more simple The spices are Cumin seeds Corriander seed White mustard seeds Kalonji ( Nigella seeds ) Turmeric Fennel Seeds Plus 2 red chillies 1 small onion finely chopped 1 fat clove of garlic chopped A good chunk of ginger freshly grated 1 bunch of corriander leaves roughly choped 2 tbl spoons of red wine vinegar 1/2 pint stock ( fish stock ) or water creamed coconut ( from a block Dry fry and grind the spices. In a tbl spoon of nut oil fry the spices unti they lose their rawness. Add the onion and garlic and chillies and sweat until soft but not coloured. Add the ginger, vinegar, stock and coconut and cook until reduced by half. meanwhile fry the marinaded shrimp in a little oil until cooked. Pour over the sauce and sprinkle in the corriander leaves. Sprinkle with lime juice before serving. Very spicy and fresh. Good if made with a little tamarind juice rather than vinegar as well Hope it works for you
  20. The use of hot and sour works well with shrimp I marinade large Tiger prawns in a paste of ginger, red chillie, lime juice and sugar and then grill them. Or You can use the same marinaded shrimp in a dish with a sauce made of ginger, coriander, vinegar and creamed coconut. It is a wonderful dish for summers day and best served with a fresh lime soda, salty naturally S
  21. I was fortunate enough to have the estimable Suvir treat me to lunch in Dimple on my recent business trip. With his guidance, we sampled some excellent Chaat. The samosas I ordered off my own bat were not so good. I agree with Suvir, this is hardly a date place. Women being so shallow and all, they need much more spangle and glitz ( lights blue touch paper and stands well back ) S
  22. Not about food as such, but I always find that books that evoke a time and a place are the ones that make we want to eat There is a feast scene in Mailer's otherwise phallocentric Ancient Evenings thatb makes me ravenous and a scene in Cider with Rosie that is so redolent of times past that it makes me want to scoff a cream tea and "lashings of ginger beer" Often great writers who bring food into their books are far more evocative than people writing specifically about food S
  23. Mike Have a look through the posts on this board. Aaprt from making exceptional reading, all of the recipesw Suvir ha shared with us are very easy to follow and delicious. His recipe for a salad to accompany a tandoor was miraculous. For my part, I can recommend the Chickn korma recipe I posted on the Chicken curry thread as being easy beyond belief and equally delicious. It is also a very impressive dinner dish for a guests. Good luck and report back what you eat S
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