PCL

Thanks for all your thoughts. Looks like braising a'la chinois is very in fashion at the moment. I read somewhere recently, Moby may be able to shed some light on this, probably in one of the London weekend paper magazines, for a simple crispy skinned belly roast... think it went something like this... not sure about the brining, personally, i think you can end up with a sea-pork... not sure... but here's what i remember from the article... season skin, scored so it doesn't curl... some herbs, white wine in the roasting dish, pork left in skin up... gentle roast depending on belly size... then finish under grill for crispy skin... sounds simple enough... any thoughts?...

ARRGGHHH!!!!!.... he may be a humanitarian, and a "pukka" lad and all that, but us Aussies, have been using adjectives like "whack" a looooooong time before JO turned up... now that I've emptied my bucket and wiped my mouth, I can genially explain that I meant to use "whack" simply to denote an enthusiastic approach to the placement of the beloved duck part on the rack in anticipation of cooking it to relative perfection... you can either see it as either enthusiasm or affection.. ...and as for the ginger, it means just that, a good sized wedge of ginger about an inch long, bashed, smacked, flattened by the side of one's knife... and I forgot to add in me earlier post, to "bung" in a couple cloves into the marinade as well... makes it all so much more yummy and tasty...

Guys, I've just gone over that paragraph, and I don't get what I was trying to say either... but after some contemplation of my navel, I think it should read... "...the long and short if it though, in my tasting experience, is that when people expound things like individual approaches, methodologies as mentioned by mongo, then the disassociation with entire communities of tradition and an uneducated dismissal of precedents would only render the final product vulgar and devoid of that most important ingredient, good taste (in terms of literal flavor and perhaps morality as well)."... howzat!?!? and thanks to herbacidal for the mental jump-start...context is very important, and an understanding of how things work together. It doesn't have to be a scientific or precise knowledge of chemistry, but rather an instinctive sympathy for ingredients and reasons why things work... like apple and pork, berries and duck... and also, social context... many SE Asian dishes are just so because they are best eaten that way, like in a bowl, with a nourishing broth, herbs to refresh, starch in the form of noodles, and protein in the broth and meat/fish components, and spices for flavor and sometimes medicinal properties... guess I've just described a LAKSA!!!... or PHO!!!...everything in one easy to gulp package packed with flavor and satiety... it's not easy to see how you can reduce that into a half-empty plate a'la cuisine minceur, but only maybe because its hasn't been thought through enough, such is the "appeal" of hype and trendiness... and torakris, I think that the Japanese love of 'curry' is a fine example of a transplanted, successful, hence, selected dish that has permeated daily eating... like any kind of evolution, it would appear that basic principles have to be adhered to, for no better reason other than that it works, the apparent fact that we stood upright at some point shows that it does... natural selection rears it omnipotent head even in gastronomy! and Pan, thanks for the link to the Bio!... looking fwd to more discussions on Nasi Lemak, Chicken Rice and Har Mee!...

Pan, I haven't checked your bio, if you have one , but I've noticed you are very familiar with the food of Malaysia. I am Malaysian-born Chinese, living in London, schooled in Australia, and have always defended the naturally-selected "fusion" cuisines of my birthplace. For example, in Ipoh, a tin-mining city on the east coast, a specialty of a particular "Coffee-Tiam" is pork-chops. Flattened and battered, fried and served with a bastard sweet-sour tomato sauce, chinese greens, chopped chillies and to top it off, with a knife and fork... tastes nothing like you'd expect in a western joint, but a staple of the blue collar non-Malay (read non-Muslim) population... definitely a leftover from the colonial times. ...in short, it's a sign of a socially well adjusted multicultural population that such dishes can evolve and be accepted into the culinary fabric without the type of microscopic scrutiny 'established' societies impose on fusion foods in western cultures such as we are practising right now... ...or maybe simply in places like Malaysia, Thailand etc, there isn't the hang-up of vehemently defending culinary traditions, or dare I say, a sense of snobbery over what each particular place produces or plates up as food or cuisine??... people in those parts seem much more adventurous, more open to new experiences, and perhaps in our western frame of mind, typecasting is a result of centuries of cultural proprietorship to the detriment of new experiences... ...all that said, while I think Peter Gordon is a great fusion chef (new place just opened in NY, can't remember the name), there is a lot left to be desired in places where the chefs have backpacked around and returned with a shit load of lemongrass in their luggage, to paraphrase an oft-quoted broadside... ...the long and short if it though, in my tasting experience, is that when people expound things like individual approaches, methodologies as mentioned by mongo, then the entire community and acknowledgement of precedents would only render the final product vulgar and devoid of that most important ingredient, good taste.

If indoor cooking is the case, hence no grill, no vines, no kick-ass smoker in the oversized backyard, I like to do the following, tempered by 2 years living in small flats (apartments) in London: score skin, cut off excess, dunk in orange juice, white wine, splash of soy sauce, bashed ginger and orange zest overnight in fridge... stick a baking rack on an oven tray, whack the breast skin up on the rack, reserve marinade, bake at 180C, dunno what it is in F, for 20mins or so, till brown... heat some oil EVOO if you like, in a hot pan, sear the skin till crisp, careful not to burn... ...pour off excess fat, remove breast to rest, deglaze with marinade and cook in some chopped shallots, season with S&P, reduce till syrupy... slice breast on the diagonal as thin as you like, serve sauce drizzled or on the side... good on its own, and nice cold too with crusty bread, nice wedge of cheddar and a pinot noir...

My wife came across some nice looking pork belly at the butcher this morning and she picked up a slab just 'cos they looked the way they did, irresistible. Now, normally, I'd buy something like that with some kind of end result in mind, but alas, I was home with my foot up following a nasty bicycle-and-kid-running-off-the-footpath accident last weekend. Nevertheless, I was tasked with putting the thing on the dinner table minus several key ingredients in the kitchen (I haven't been out much since the ankle got wrecked). To cut a long afternoon short, I whacked together some roughly chopped onion, smacked flat some ginger and a couple garlic cloves, browned them in some oil in the cast iron pot, tossed in the chopped belly, cup of light soy, cup of dark soy, Chinese rock sugar a single lump of, ground black pepper, salt, couple ladlefuls of simmering chicken stock, covered the whole thing on a low, i mean, low, heat... it's a basic Chinese 'red-cooked' belly, but minus rice wine, minus star anise... but still good I thought, with a few bay leaves thrown in... ...now, the question... I'd bounced around a couple pages of Larousse, a couple pages here in eGullet, and here and there, but am not sure whether we've had a discussion on this most noble cut of pig. Say, if you were like me, caught out with pork belly and had to do something with it quick and on the spot, with stuff just in the kitchen, and without trying to win a couple stars, what would you do?... roast? braise?... and to get the skin crisp... ...one way I could have approached it would have been to just to simmer the belly whole in a pot of water till cooked, refreshed and left to cool, then sliced thin and serve with fluffy rice and a bowl of light soy with fresh chopped chillies and minced garlic.... minimalist simplicity... but it's still cold here in London, UK, and we needed something warm with a sauce that we could pour over bowls of steaming rice (rice cooker cooked!!) Anything you'd like to share would be gratefully received.

I started a confit in a simple stainless steel pot, home from work today due to ankle injury, pork chops for dinner... saw this thread a couple days ago, and thought what the hell... ...going for a version in between an 'overnighter' and the Uber-Schnell Confit expounded by schneich... ...some streaky bacon for unctuousness... bay leaves, handful of herbs, shallots to umph it, but no demi-glaze in sight... sauteed it hard, deglazed with wine and slipped in a couple pinches of chicken stock cube... turned it down now to work on itself... will fire it up again soon... but here's the question... thinking of glazing the chops in some honey and light soy then just leaving them under the overhead grill, turning once, so i don't have to get up too often...foot's all bloated ...anyone think I should add some wine to the pan the chops are sitting in?... musn't be thinking too straight, maybe it's the analgesics...

Let's see... welcome to eGullet first of all... now that's out of the way... 1. Generally I look for plump cloves, clean 'husk', no bruising. You don't want the root ball to be exhibiting signs of wear and deterioration. Like all vegies really, though someone will take me up on that one I'm sure... ok, plant based food product...whatever, it's late here 2. I keep my garlic in a terracotta container with lid. It's porous enough so it breathes, and it's dark so it doesn't start to sprout. Once they sprout, forget it. 3. As to how much to use... well, trial and error, but generally it's got to do with what you're cooking. Here's my two bits worth. Good luck

Looks like my humble maiden-post has made it back from the depths... I never did chime back with how the Cassoulet went... ...IT WAS FANTASTIC.... made enough for several large meals, and I just heated some for dinner last night, especially now that it's cold here in London. It was fun, sitting down with a big bowl of beans, melted bits of belly pork and a chunk or two of duck.... Had a couple of baguettes heated up to break into the bowl and there were two bowlfuls in my tum, all consumed while watching David Attenborough DVD's... I used the recipe, and it didn't take that long really. It was over a month ago, and all it took was to start assembling browning and boiling in the afternoon and by 9pm I had a piping bowl on the table. I couldn't help tossing in some cubes of frozen stock and deliberately held back on the flour. Didn't navarin any lamb ('cos I was trying hard to get the belly pork flavour thing going)... the sausages were OOOHHHH... good... left 'em chunky and all the same size so surprise surprise for the lucky diner (ME!!) I also bought some butter beans (one wine bar I was at served their cassoulet with butter beans... nice) and I'll probably try a version with them after I return from Australia in November, when it's REALLY COLD. Thanks again for all the encouragement.

A few people have expressed concern over the "To stir or not to stir" issue of the congee. I generally agree with the fact that constant stirring is tiresome, but can result in a nice smooth texture if carried out properly. A trick my grandma taught me is to drop a porcelain soup spoon (the ones you get at PROPER Chinese noodle houses) into the pot. What happens is that while the congee/jook/chook bubbles away, it agitates the spoon which then sends mini-shockwaves through the rice gruel, minimising the risk of sticking to the base. In any case, if there is a skin/casing remaining on the base of the pot, one would do well to scrape it off carefully and serve it with a light dipping sauce (chilli and soy, or whatever) as its pretty tasty stuff. If almost burnt, let it dry and treat like a snack in the kitchen.

Why would you want to season the vegemite as its flavoursome as it is? I'd suggest thinning it out so it's more of a glaze, so you don't damage the tofu. And on the crab/marmite combo, I'll be in KL for a holiday soon, I'll get my old man to make a reservation in one of his Port Kelang seafood haunts.. maybe a post fit for the Asian board.... Let us know how you get on with the tofu!!

Too much MSG for my liking... dry mouth, sweats....urrgghhhh...

That was not a recipe, it was a field manual on the construction of a complex multi structured food based entity. Kinda takes the fun and frivolity out of cooking methinks. It's a good technical read if you like Tom Clancy novels... ... But seriously, its a bit of a 'preservation' process isn't it? The use of the oven in the re-heating process doesn't seem to be highly time-efficient. Heston has come up with some fairly wobbly-spined reciped in the Saturday Guardian (London newspaper) now and then.

***Genetically Modified*** Not a fan thereof myself, but anyone out there who is? And I feel compelled to add my two bits worth to what could be the first online in depth dissertation on vegemite... It's great as a midnight snack after one too many from the pub. It was a lifesaver during the university years of brink-starvation. And I've had 'em on Wheat-Bix with butter. As for the differing angles on the taste, could batch differences have something to do with it as it's a 'live' culture of yeast they've been using? Probably simply just that individual reactions to it having more relevance. It's great stuff. Whenever I'm back in Australia, I get the catering jar. The largest jar in London supermarkets are not quite enough!!

Royal China in Canary Wharf offers superior dim sum in this town (London) in my humble opinion. It's authentic for one, and they tell me the dim sum chef (every respectable dim sum joint needs a specialist) makes the dumplings fresh, refusing management's suggestions to batch prep them and utilise the spanking new cool room. I've done Queensway, Chinatown, including Harbour City, and for me, no go. The Royal China in Queensway, and also the Baker St branch also do good to very good dim sum, but Canary Wharf is tops 'cos I can pedal down in no time, stuff my face, be sated, then fool myself that I'm working it off while pushing the lowest gear possible on the way home.

Good thing I'm in Tuscany at the moment, on the beach, end of summer, lovely. A heft Fiorentina for dinner tonight for sure at the Enoteca Marcucci, which needs to be written about, and will be soon, seeing as no one on the Italian board seems to know anything about Forte Dei Marmi in Tuscany... Ciao for now...

Finally got round to visiting Bread & Wine last night, the 20th September. My dining companions were my wife and a friend, all of us optimistic following a couple of recent lacklustre dinners at Smithfields. I was hoping all day that there might have been mushrooms on the menu as per Charlene Leonard's recommendation. Been gorging on mushrooms at home the last week or so, and when we got there, a quick survey of the board yielded a small disappointment, but there was much else to look forward to. Our friend had yet to show, and while waiting we munched on the terrific bread, and a plate of cheeks on toast, thin sliced pork cheeks, grilled and served on warm toast. It was a complete turnaround from a weak bone marrow presentation at Smithfields a week ago. It turns out it was our mate's birthday, only made known to us when he arrived, and while he and Mrs PCL turned their attention to gossip and slander, it was left to me to order. I picked things to share, and the following was enjoyed by all: 1/2 dozen oysters 1/2 dozen razor clams chitterlings duck eggs with chicory and watercress ox heart with beetroot whole crab and garlic mayo (to serve 2) We were a little apprehensive when another table's duck egg looked overcooked (boiled and served in the half-shell), but ours was just right, with the yolk still creamy. The chitterlings and ox heart were both meaty and sated my protein cravings (in-between Boston Butts & ribs at Bodeans). The highlights, however, were the razor clams and the crab. The clams were grilled open, and then dressed with a red wine shallot vinaigrette. I'd only ever had these in Chinese restaurants or cooked by family friends, and it was delightful to see and taste a western treatment. The dressing was edgy and had a good balanced twang to soften the mildly pungent clams (not sure if perfumed would be a better word). The crab was served cold, the flesh moist and not overdone. We don't generally eat much seafood in London, but after the clams, felt confident enough to mix it with the crab. Birthday boy stayed with the claws (which needed some inventive bashing on the ground while wrapped in a napkin, the shell-crackers rendered ineffective at times). I was more than content to dig around the thorax and the main shell, rooting out the innards. I stayed away from the mayonnaise and instead asked for some more of the shallot vinaigrette. Dessert for all were the raspberry sorbet, creme caramel, and honey roasted figs. In summary: we loved it. It was great for a spontaneous celebration, and was extremely well suited, by no small degree of design, for a familial repast. We ate a lot, but it worked. We were however, more than surprised to see the discrepancy between take-away and 'drink-in' wine prices (more than 100% mark up for some bottles) but still managed to kill off a decent chablis and cote du rhone for just over £50. But the food starred. Almost dropped in again tonight for a quick snacking dinner, but found razor clams in Chinatown and did 'em at home instead. Maybe next time I'll ring ahead and ask if mushrooms are on the board.

At a place I worked at in Melbourne, we would chop the spuds, boil 'em in batches, and then keep them warm in a just-bubbling pot till needed and mashed, whirled and mixed a'la minute. Is this what you guys meant when you say mashed a'a minute? Far as we were concerned, it was pre-boil, then finish before plating.

mmm... Congee is good... haven't had it for a while. Need to get the congee expert (my wife) to get to work!! Texture is important... creamy, but not puree... the worse is watery congee with the rice in individual grains.. that's Teochew style...plain and eaten with fermented bean curd or salted duck...etc etc... last night we had a friend over and the menu was: pan seared calves' liver with shallots and balsamico (1/2 portion each) spaghetti with tomatoes and basil (1/2 portion each) rib eye on the charcoal grill white button mushroom sauce (red wine, shallots, demi-glace) sauteed shitake & chestnut mushrooms (butter, shallots, garlic, parsley) herb salad simple and yummy...

You can try "Tea House" in Chinatown, it's on Little Bourke St, and the owner/manager/kitchen staff are Flower Drum Alumni. Extremely worthwhile, but do book ahead. Unfortunately I live in London now, and don't have their details at hand. If you have any hassles, let me know, either by private message or here, and I'll try to rustle something up. The Mietta's online guide should have details. Don't confuse the Chinatown branch with their former 'Flagship' in Camberwell. Bamboo House is too 'dumbed down' to be authentic, and be sure to let the staff at Tea House know you're up for the good stuff. As for St.Kilda alternatives, you could try The Wine Room which is on the Fitzroy St roundabout. Bookings essential, the Rib Eye is a monster and should still be on the menu, if it ain't, bail out. The Wine Room was started by Morris Terzini who started Otto's in Sydney. Jacques Reymond is also good, but a little pretentious and pricey. Walter's Wine Bar, sorry mate, but doesn't even come up on the radar. Had friends who used to work there, and that's all I'll say about it. Now, that's made me even more homesick than I was this morning. Gonna be heading home to Melbourne in October for holidays and I'm gonna be fattening up for the London winter!!

I put the fillet into the freezer for about an hour then straight onto a smoking hot grill for the Japanese dish Gyu Tataki... wafer thin sliced seared raw beef with a tangy ponzu based sauce. The sauce is cold and its almost essential (correct me if I'm wrong) that the beef be so too, therefore the partial freezing works. The searing only browns and chars the outer 2mm or so, leaving the slices red and raw in the middle. Otherwise, only frozen meat is for stock and braises and stews.

My grandmother steams chicken in a wok, basting it with fat from another chicken, giving it a nice rich yellow colour. Don't know how she times it but she gets the flesh just cooked. It's very good, but dependent on the quality of the bird. She visited once and cooked a supermarket bird, and we agreed that it was the chook. The thigh meat is crazy like this just firm, still slippery, and the well cooked skin divine when dipped in a sauce of soy sauce, sesame oil, garlic and chilli... and spring onions, i believe some know it as scallions... I wouldn't get grandma to cook if the bird wasn't reared properly.

Just had lunch there. There is a £6.95 express lunch deal... including 1 No. beer or soft drink, and guaranteed 15 mins on your table of one eats for free... fantastic value for the West End, and man... I could do it everyday. The deal's a little limited, but with chicken, or boston butt (pulled pork sandwich) or 1/2 rack of ribs on offer... hey, what more do you need. Was a little sad given that we'd had dinner there last night, but it seems to be the season for pork in our office at the moment!! Have a good weekend all.

Whoa... I had burgers on Friday night at home... and the killer on 'em was the oak smoked cheddar... it's good too on it's own with a decent shiraz... but yeah, burgers are on.... especially when the bacon's good, and no more than 80% lean mince... i've got a small mix of dried shrimp and chillies which is real good when lightly fried in peanut oil and thickened with plain yogurt... and it all works well together... no pics though, but a good idea... there should be a burger exhibition on the Gullet

We almost went to Bread & Wine... then decided we'd take the one stranger to StJ's to the mothership then hit on B&W next week... can't wait till then, but will probably do Bodeans once before then Simon, I'll be most interested to know how your experience goes tonight. Charlene, and I love mushrooms... will try definitely.