slbunge

The pegboard idea is fantastic. One of the things that I was amazed with when we went to see Julia's Child's kitchen at the Smithsonian in DC was how it was geared entirely for efficiency. There was pegboard on every flat surface. There were multiple small countertops at differing heights. Cubby holes and drawers of all different sizes and shapes. Magnetic knife strip so there was no knife block on the counter. And on and on. It makes me nervous to see suggestions about changing the pantry into a breakfast nook. Mostly because I have always craved a pantry and I would be hard-pressed to get rid of those custom cabinets. Pegboard should be fairly easy to install as temporary while you work out the details of how you want the kitchen to eventually function.

Another shout out for both Dok Bua and Khao Sarn. If I had to pick for a single meal, I'm not sure which one I would choose. I guess Dok Bua because I can be a cheap son-of-a-gun at times. Can we call Matt Murphy's ethnic? As in representative of the foods eaten by the folks from the exotic emerald isle? If so, it would be worth a stop. If you get the fish and chips (and I recommend that you do) be sure to ask for ketchup with your fries and tartar sauce for you fish, you will be pleasantly surprised. Even if you sat and had a beer while eating their amazing bread slathered with the huge slab of fresh butter they provide it would be worth a stop.

I just read through this thread this morning, great discussion. One thing that I thought was missing was a comparison of the 'dining' industry to the rest of the business of society. If we go back to Rogov's original definition and we set aside the fact that this is food we are talking about, I think that the number of women who are 'great chefs' likely closely follows the number of women who are great managers of large companies in other sectors of the economy. If we look around there are lots of women who are in command of small to mid-sized restaurant kitchens, bakeries, etc in the same way that there are a sizable number of women who own or run small to mid-sized businesses. So while I think there are too few women at the top, I see healthy activity in the middle. I'm not suggesting that there isn't injustice (either in the past, now, or in the future). I think there certainly was a glass ceiling and it appears to continue to be intact now excepting a few holes in it where women have broken through. I think the reasons for it are varied and nuanced as demonstrated by the vibrant discussion above. That said, I do think that change is coming and we will all be better off when everyone has a fair shot to live their dream.

It will be interesting to watch as the famous chefs' outposts in Vegas develop. I don't have any problem with any of these people opening a restaurant anywhere in the world but it seems to me that one of the things that used to separate Keller from other chefs such as Batali is that the former used to speak through a single place. Part of the interest in French Laundry was an expectation that the actual man at the helm was personally obsessing over every part of my meal (from the way the building was designed to the source for the sunflower sprouts) and that obsession might lead to something akin to perfection. Perhaps this is naive but when he had only one location it was easy to think this to be true. Now with two or three restaurants the diner, perhaps, is just there for great food rather than some fleeting hope that this will be the perfect meal. I'd be curious to hear from people out there who have eaten at the originals and the Vegas outposts.

Interesting. When we go car camping we often boil coffee over the campfire in a bit enameled coffee pot. Our trick for settling the grounds is a cup of cold water added as you move the pot from the boil. Might try the eggshell trick next summer.

I'm almost through my copy of the food issue and I think it was very well done. I greatly appreciate that it is not recipe-based writing. The article about futurist food was amazing. I kept thinking to myself that only the Italians could have a successful restaurant with a menu that is based on the writings (ramblings?) of a futurist from the previous century. They have relied on the short personal essays (for example, the fantastic one from Gabrielle Hamilton) for the last several and I think that they are often the highlight of the issue. I still remember reading one written by Madhur Jaffrey a few years ago that is loosely about food memory (thanks google!). In a few short sentences she almost convinced me that I had my own memories of eating spiced mangoes in a tree in India when the reality is I was eating porkchops and minute rice in Wisconsin. Great issue.

I admit that when I saw this stuff at a cheese/food shop here in Boston, I bought it for the great lookoing tin. A pleasant surprise to find out that the paprika inside is really quite good. There is a sweet version as well (perhaps called 'mild'?).

I know it is the wrong direction but if you have a bike and perhaps just a bit longer than an hour available, a reasonably ride through campus to the west can take you to Lulu's or Sa Bai Thong. Sa Bai Thong is on University in the University Station mall (the one with Magic Mill). If you swing around University Bay Drive, go past the beautiful Unitarian Meeting House you can slip down the road parallel to university until you get to the mall. I think the food tastes better than Bahn Thai and they have good lunch specials. Lulu's is a Syrian restaurant on Old Univeristy Avenue that still stands for my favorite comfort food (I grew up in Madison and lived there until a few years ago). Lunches can be reasonably speedy and well priced. Their two soups (spinach and lentil or yellow split pea) are outstanding, as is all of their food. I have often lunched on a cup of soup and a side of hummus. One of the treasures of Lulu's is their tiny little market in the back. Dried fava beans; chick-pea flour; bottles of rose water and orange blossom water; pomegranite molasses; fresh and frozen pita; house made hummus, baba ghannouj and tabouli...yum.

Finn Berge is part owner of both Barrique's and Magnus (and the Blue Marlin) which might be part of the reason for the recommendation. That said, it is still a good suggestion. I think that Magnus is a great restaurant with very good food, wine and service. Truly one of the best values in the downtown area.

Very nicely put. Not just this part, but your entire response was balanced and appropriately organized. Agreed. Thanks for the response.

I've known a few people who have invested in restaurant ventures, mainly 'American Bistro' sorts of things where I think the draw was potential success via franchising if the restaurant is successful. This, quite obviously, is another animal and I am wondering about the investor mindset as they make their decisions to be financial backers. General terms, not specifics. It seems to me, that investing in a restaurant such as this might be akin to the way some invest in art: there is certainly confidence about return on the investment but part of the decision to invest is a very personal connection to the art. Whether it be the fact that you get to look at the painting on your wall, share it with the public by lending it, or just that you feel the buzz of supporting an artists (a sort of vicarious living, I suppose). Based on what I have read here, Mr. Kokonas, it appears that this passion for the Chef's art is at least part of what drives you to be a partner and investor. I am curious about the others in the group. Do they share that passion? Edit: spelling

Oh great. Can't wait to get that in the mailbox. Speaking of food and the New Yorker magazine, did anyone read the article about Rob Kaufelt of Murray's Cheese Shop in the 8/23 issue? Nice article. Would be interested to hear comments about the article (or the store or the proprietor) from those who shop there.

That is one hell of an idea.

In the spirit of inclusion, can I ask this question: Would you have been less disturbed if the sausage had been properly centered in the bun, where each end protrudes no more than the other? Or maybe you simply don't like ketchup on brats? There are a few things I find a bit disturbing about that photo: ketchup is not appropriate for bratwurst; missing condiments include mustard and kraut (some would say onions as well); and the most objectionable thing is that the brat has not been grilled. Perhaps it is a Wisconsin thing (I spent virtually my entire life there until a few months ago) but brats are always grilled. Some boil in beer with onions and then grill. Some grill and then hold in simmering beer. Some split open and grill till dry. Some grill whole so the brat remains juicy. But everyone grills. Perhaps it isn't a brat at all and is instead a weisswurst (somewhat similar to a brat but with a good chunk of the pork replaced with veal). If so, simmering in water (preferably in a Nesco) and NOT throwing them on the grill is totally appropriate. Not sure why, perhaps the veal doesn't hold up well to the intense heat of the grill.

This is exactly how we grill and eat corn. In fact, I just got back from the farmers market with half a dozen ears so corn is on the menu for dinner.

Blech. The last thing I want when I go to a bar is to be connected via high-tech hookah to some gadget. Pour me a tasty drink and let me take it with me to wander around and socialize. Alcohol uptake as a stand-alone activity doesn't appeal to me at all.

As we were watching the special last night I was thinking the same thing. I think it would be great to re-run those original shows or find them on DVD to rent. I remember that this past spring when we were in DC I could barely pull myself away from the videos of those shows running at the Julia's Kitchen exhibit. As noted often, the fact that those early shows were taped live allowed us to get a glimpse of the personality of this wonderful woman.

Oh I love those things. The taste is hard to describe...mineral is about all that comes to mind right now. The other thing is that they look so darn cool.

In one of the essays in It Must Have Been Something I Ate, the intrepid food writer Jeffrey Steingarten discusses the classic lobster roll including the Pepperidge Farm top sliced Frankfurter Roll that is the only appropriate choice. There is also a recipe and instructions on how to steam a live lobster if you choose to do that yourself. The essay is called, simply, 'On a Roll'.

I've often heard about the home-brewing traditions in rural Norway. For example, using juniper and other medicinals instead of (or in addition to) hops. Did you get to try any homebrew? Was that the stuff you didn't like?

Hendricks and tonic is a very nice treat on a hot summer afternoon. I also have Bombay Sapphire and tonic occassionally but more often I drink the Bombay in a gimlet form. A slightly different question is what brand of tonic water do you use? I find the big brands (Schweppes, Canada Dry) a bit on the sweet side. Are there boutique brands out there I should be trying? Can I make my own? So many questions to answer before the hot weather is in retreat.

Nerds like me never miss an opportunity to begin or continue (but never end) a good physics pissing contest.

In my various trips to Houston over the years I have driven past Felix many a time and never knew a whit about it. Thanks for the report and the great photos. It's on the (growing) list of places to try on future trips.

I didn't realize that Fibrament sold to the public. That stuff is amazing and worth the money. It is like a food-safe version of industrial refractory and designed to survive pretty significant stresses due to temperature shocking. Depending on how serious you get with baking, you may want to get two (one to place the loaf on and one above) to increase the thermal mass of your home oven even more. I would suggest that heating at least an hour for any stone or tile is wise. To realize the stone's benefit, you want the maximum thermal energy stored. To do this, you need the stone to be uniformly at temperature through to the core. For baking bread, the thermal mass stored in the stone will ensure that the oven temp recovers quickly after the door is opened. For thin crust pizza, you care a bit less about oven temp recovery and more about having a reservoir of thermal mass to keep the surface in contact with the crust very hot so it cooks quickly and doesn't get soggy.

I use avocado frequently (salads, sandwiches, etc). But the most amazing application of avocado I have had to date was an 'avocado pie' from a restaurant on the island of Cozumel. Very creamy texture, great avocado flavor melded with lime tang. My wife tried to replicate it once when we had a boatload of avocados show up from friends in California. Didn't get the texture right at all. Hmmmm...I wonder if they would send me their recipe?