Michel Richard's Citronelle

[twodogs]

food for thought

dish seems very similar to a squab dish served at hiramatsu in paris. sliced squab on steamer insert, broth poured over the top tableside.

cheers

[DonRocks]

food for thought

dish seems very similar to a squab dish served at hiramatsu in paris.  sliced squab on steamer insert, broth poured over the top tableside.

cheers

Michel just got back from Paris.

Edited December 7, 2003 by DonRocks (log)

[Mark Sommelier]

food for thought

dish seems very similar to a squab dish served at hiramatsu in paris. sliced squab on steamer insert, broth poured over the top tableside.

cheers

I have to admit that it is similar to a stunning dish I had in Paris 2 weeks ago at the Hotel Bristol. That dish was one of the most astonishingly delicious plates I have ever had. Thin sliced squab breast, thin slices of foie gras, root vegetables and incredibly rich squab broth cooked the two meats. I savored every single bite.

[bilrus]

This is all making me excited about my upcoming visit there this Thursday.

[maryland crab]

A question for Mark Sommelier;

On February 15th, I will be celebrating my 60th (OUCH). I have already made reservations for four for the 14th. Do you have any clue if there will be a special Valentine's Day tasting and what we might expect? Would I be better off making a change to the reservations for another Saturday in February, or do we go with the flow and just see what comes?

Looking forward to the evening already.

[Mark Sommelier]

A question for Mark Sommelier;

On February 15th, I will be celebrating my 60th (OUCH). I have already made reservations for four for the 14th. Do you have any clue if there will be a special Valentine's Day tasting and what we might expect? Would I be better off making a change to the reservations for another Saturday in February, or do we go with the flow and just see what comes?

Looking forward to the evening already.

Hi,

Since the restaurant is busy every night, Valentine's Day is just another busy night. There will be a special tasting menu that night, plus the regular menus.

[bilrus]

Fun. Vengroff was right about this being a fun place - not at all the stuffy image that some people have of Citronelle. And the staff, especially Mark, were friendly and helpful. The feel of the room - with its bold colors and subdued lighting invites you to descend the staircase into the dining room.

We opted for the three course menu (I was going to add the fourth cheese course, but couldn't quite swing it).

We were greeted and taken to one of the two front row tables looking into the bustling, but surprisingly spacious kitchen. We were started with a nice glass of champagne to accompany the delicate egg with a tomato water gelee and caviar. I'm not a fan of caviar, so this wasn't up my alley, but the gelee tasted of tomatoes despite its transparence.

Our appetizers were the Crab Cromesquis and the scallop tart. The most interesting thing to me was the play of all the textures that was going on throughout the meal and the crab appetizer was where it started. These were breaded fried crab balls served over a remoulade on individual spoons. You are instructed to put it all in your mouth at once and when you bite down you get a blast of liquid crab (or lobster) consommee. Very cool. The scallop dish had a buttery crust and the thinnest slices of scallops.

Before our entrees we were served the "Irish Coffee" - another fun dish that involved drinking a decadently rich mushroom broth and potato foam out of a champagne fulte through a straw. The first sip drew an "Oh. My." from my wife.

Our entrees were the Lobster with Citronelle Sauce and the Veal Shank Pot au Feu. The Veal was a hearty filling portion of braised meat and root vegetables with the hint of ginger in the broth poured over the top. It was the perfect complement to a cold night. If there was a miss on the evening it would have been the lobster. The meat itself and the sauce were both very good, but I'm not sure they complemented each other as much as I would have hoped. (This may not be the fault of the dish itself - it may be that we were comparing it to two great lobster dishes we have had this year - one at the French Laundry and one at the Inn at Little Washington. Neither places are exactly Denny's).

Dessert started with another "egg" - this one a hollowed out shell that looked just like a three minute egg - Merengue white with a passionfruit yolk. This was the dish that my wife lit up and said - "this is Kick Ass" and I agreed.

I went back to the breakfast theme with the above pictured Breakfast at Citronelle while my wife had the signature "Adult Kit Kat bar". The textures of the "Breakfast" were again playing tricks. It was hard not to expect the taste of Home Fried Potatoes and Ketchup when eating the sauteed diced apples with raspberry sauce or pok when biting into the puff pastry "bacon". Each bite was a surprise.

We still haven't gotten around to eating the plate of goodies brought at the end of the meal (although I did sneak a chocolate covered peeled grape on the way out this morning - don't tell Jen).

Of course Mark paired several excellent wines by the glass (that unfortunately I don't remember what they were) that made the meal go down that much better.

Looking back I realized that we spent a good deal of the meal laughing because of the fun and whimsy they put into the food. But not whimsy for the sake of being whimsical - it all made sense. This is what we had been expecting from our earlier meal at French Laundry but didn't quite get that night. We got it last night at Citronelle.

[bilrus]

Something that I have found interesting from this meal. When people ask about it and I describe the meal - the dish I invariably bring up is the "Irish Coffee".

The reactions I get when I describe it make me feel like I am crazy-

Me - "It's served in a champagne flute"

Them - "That's cool"

Me - "Well, it has a rich mushroom broth"

Them - "OK"

Me - "and then there is a smooth potato foam on top"

Them - "Oh Yeah?" with furrowed eyebrows

Me - "And you drink it with a straw"

Them - silence with aghast stares

Me - "Well, it was really good - beleive me"

Them - "I'll take your word for it"

[Bux]

A question for Mark Sommelier;

On February 15th, I will be celebrating my 60th (OUCH).  I have already made reservations for four for the 14th.  Do you have any clue if there will be a special Valentine's Day tasting and what we might expect?  Would I be better off making a change to the reservations for another Saturday in February, or do we go with the flow and just see what comes? 

Looking forward to the evening already.

Hi,

Since the restaurant is busy every night, Valentine's Day is just another busy night. There will be a special tasting menu that night, plus the regular menus.

I don't know about DC, but up here in NY, I try to avoid going to most restaurants on Mother's Day and Valentine's Day. I've found the traffic is no worse and it's not that much harder to get a reservation, but the restaurants are full of what I refer to as "Sunday Drivers." That is, there are many once a year diners who really aren't experienced restauratn goers and who take up the staff's time and try their patience. Invariably, the staff is working at a more stressful level.

[sammy]

That is, there are many once a year diners who really aren't experienced restauratn goers and who take up the staff's time and try their patience. Invariably, the staff is working at a more stressful level.

Please provide some examples of how an inexperienced diner causes restaurant staff to have additional stress?

I'm sure this will be enlightening to the inexperienced diners.

[bilrus]

That is, there are many once a year diners who really aren't experienced restauratn goers and who take up the staff's time and try their patience. Invariably, the staff is working at a more stressful level.

Please provide some examples of how an inexperienced diner causes restaurant staff to have additional stress?

I'm sure this will be enlightening to the inexperienced diners.

I can't imagine there are too many inexperienced diners around here.

[sammy]

Just had a thought:

Why not have different sections in a restaurant: one for experienced diners and one for those less experienced. Kind of like first class and coach on a plane. That way the inexperienced diners won't compromise the dining experience of the experienced diners. Of course, there will need to be a curtain separating the sections so the inexperienced diners can't see the wonderful treatment being provided to the experienced diners.

[sammy]

That is, there are many once a year diners who really aren't experienced restauratn goers and who take up the staff's time and try their patience. Invariably, the staff is working at a more stressful level.

Please provide some examples of how an inexperienced diner causes restaurant staff to have additional stress?

I'm sure this will be enlightening to the inexperienced diners.

I can't imagine there are too many inexperienced diners around here.

What about all of the members from the midwest?

[Busboy]

That is, there are many once a year diners who really aren't experienced restauratn goers and who take up the staff's time and try their patience. Invariably, the staff is working at a more stressful level.

Please provide some examples of how an inexperienced diner causes restaurant staff to have additional stress?

I'm sure this will be enlightening to the inexperienced diners.

I can't imagine there are too many inexperienced diners around here.

What about all of the members from the midwest?

I never thought inexperienced diners caused that much stress (except for the occasional "I'm not eatin' this, bring me some REAL food" types.)

The most common negative impact is that they are unfamiliar with the pace and tradition of fine dining. They want to rush, they don't understand that the staff probably has everything in hand and that there's no need to call them to the table, they worry that they're being taken advantage of by evil waiters and so on.

So, Sammy, when you get to Citronelle, the best course is to sit back, relax and enjoy.

[Mark Sommelier]

Please provide some examples of how an inexperienced diner causes restaurant staff to have additional stress?

Asking for ketchup for the pommes pontneuf

[vengroff]

The number one job of the front of house staff is to ensure that the diners experience is comfortable and enjoyable. This is harder to do with inexperienced fine diners because, like anyone who is in an unfamiliar situation, they are naturally more nervous and on edge.

Though millions of years of evolution, remaining more alert and not letting your guard down in unfamiliar situations has been extremely valuable. But having that reaction wired in deep inside the human psyche does not necesseraly translate into the most enjoyable experience for infrequent fine diners. Luckily, the potential embarassment of not using the right fork is nowhere near as bad as the potential pain of having one's arm bit off by a sabre-toothed tiger.

It's more work for front of the house staff to get their inexperienced guests past their apprehensions than it is to deal with guests who are already comfortable in the fine dining environment. A good waiter will go the extra mile to make everyone comfortable, despite the very real risk that the certain diners' inexperience will show up again at tipping time.

[sammy]

I agree completely except that there are plenty of experienced diners that are a bigger pain in the a.. than many inexperienced diners. They go out at nice restaurants all of the time and are rude at every one of them. They treat the service staff as servants and are demanding to a ridiculous degree.

I just don't think it's fair to make the defining line inexperienced vs. experienced.

[Mark Sommelier]

I agree completely except that there are plenty of experienced diners that are a bigger pain in the a.. than many inexperienced diners. They go out at nice restaurants all of the time and are rude at every one of them. They treat the service staff as servants and are demanding to a ridiculous degree.

I just don't think it's fair to make the defining line inexperienced vs. experienced.

I saw a good example of this the other night. 2 couples at the table, one guy orders a very expensive bottle of chardonnay. They look at the menu, he pays no attention to the structure of the menu (ie: 3 course prix-fixe or degustation menus) and orders "the fettucine" as an appetizer from the tasting menu and then 2 main courses (each carrying a supplement). When the waiter questioned the choices he got irate. The "fettucine" is actually a dish made with cuttlefish cut like fettucine and sauteed quickly to keep it tender, a sauce made of creamed sea urchin, garnished with sea urchin and caviar. When the waiter tried to explain the dish, the guy cut him off with "I know what cuttlefish is". Needless to say, the dish came out and the man pronounced it "dreadful" (no pasta!) and had it taken away. I laughed, but the waiter was stressed the whole rest of the night. The check was $1400 including the $950 of wine.

[vengroff]

Sad, but all too common I'm sure. That's a guy who's letting his own arrogance get between himself and a good a meal.

[tammylc]

Fellow eGulleteer Schneier and I had dinner at Citronelle last night. We'd let Mark know in advance we were coming, and he was a hoot, and really great to meet. The meal was good too!

Schneier took notes, so I'll wait to see if he gets around to writing up the meal before commenting. But since I was online I just thought I'd say thanks to Mark for his (and the restaurant's) great hospitality.

I will say one thing about the food - the Vitello Tonnato (sp?) was incredible, and may be in my Top 5 dishes ever. Okay, two things - Breakfast at Citronelle is hysterical - although those damn apples were awfully disturbing.

[maryland crab]

Another heart-felt thanks to Mark. We dined on Saturday night, Valentine's Day, and Mark was incredible. It was my 60th birthday and it will never be forgotten. Get the fois gras appetizer when available!!! I talked our waiter into several of the special Irish Coffees, even though they were not on the menu and they were wonderful. I second the thought on the Breakfast at Citronelle. The presentation was totally innovative and yet was extremely tasty too. After that the birthday dessert platter arrived and we waddled home.

Mark, don't know if you were responsible for table 31, but if you were, it was great. Thanks for sharing your time with us and I am already planning out next visit. This was probably the top meal of our top three in our 335 years of marriage, the other two being the Inn well before it was discovered (we first went in the late 70's) and the Captiva Arts Cafe down in Florida. Citronelle is absolutely an experience of a lifetime.

[maryland crab]

Opps, my wife says that it seems like 335 years to her, but it is only 35 years.

[Kim WB]

I also visited Citronelle, and had the opportunity to meet Mark and dine under his great attentions. I was there two weeks ago. I've been hesitant to post because, well..it's embarrassing.

Preface to say that I have kids and a busy career...I don't get off my home turf often, and when I do, its very festive and special. A recent political gathering in DC brought my husband and me there..and instead of our usual hit and run, we made a weekend out of it. First time the kids were alone ( 16, 14, one in college 60 miles away)

So, the bottom line is, I drank a bit and don't actually recall the details of our meal..I remember general wonderfulness, and Mark's generous attentions...and I think I remember a orgasmic dessert...but I've been hesitant to post because, well, I'm a little past the point where being loaded in public is cool. I've been assured I was not overtly obnoxious, but still...

However, I've paid for it: woke up the next morning with a throbbing, swollen middle finger. Finally had an x-ray...two fractures in the joint, in a splint for 6 weeks. Don't ask. Wouldn't matter..I couldn't tell you. OY, E-gullet as therapist.

PS, told the kids I fell on the slippery marble in the lobby of the hotel, and caught my fall on the finger. Back me up on this folks..hey..it might be the truth...and I was with my husband the entire night, but he doesn't have a theory either, and he was WAY straighter than I)

Edited February 19, 2004 by Kim WB (log)

[DonRocks]

However, I've paid for it: woke up the next morning with a throbbing, swollen middle finger.

I bleated out like a sheep when I read this.

Mark is a dear friend and for that reason alone I try not to show too much bias in supporting him here. Nevertheless, let me share this anecdote.

Once when I was dining in the bar area, there was an impossibly difficult couple at the table next to me. In particular, the gentleman was impatient and being rude with the staff: "Bring her a plate of vegetables!" he demanded, even though there was no such thing on the bar menu. This was primetime on a weekend night, and the restaurant was slammed downstairs. About ten minutes later, fifteen at the most, Mark had come up to say hello and pour me a glass of wine. At the same time, this most unpleasant man says to one of the servers, in a loud and pompous voice, "I ordered a vegetable plate an hour ago! What's taking so long?" The server, and I can't remember who it was, was taken off-guard, but Mark immediately intervened and apologized to the customer, even managing somehow to call him 'sir,' and told the server to go back downstairs and get it right away.

That's it, no fanfare, not a snide word about the customer, not even in private to me after they had left. Just plain, old-fashioned politeness and professionalism. I seriously doubt Mark even remembers this since we never discussed it, but I do.

Edited February 19, 2004 by DonRocks (log)

[Kim WB]

However, I've paid for it: woke up the next morning with a throbbing, swollen middle finger.

I bleated out like a sheep when I read this.

wow, my first bleat-worthy post. Kewl.